View Full Version : I tried my hand at stippling today
I went out last weekend to Home Depot and got a 40W pen style soldering iron (which I found out was a little to much power) and decided to try it out. I tried out the three different tips that came with the iron the fine tip was the one that worked the best. After practicing on some of scrap plastic boxes I took the plunge. I did the back strap first just in case I messed up, it could be easily replaced. I then did the thumb rests on both sides and finally the front strap and slide end cap assembly. I am pretty happy with the finished product; to me it feels like 20 or 25lpi checkering.
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r29/l_jimenez30/stipple1.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r29/l_jimenez30/stipple2-1.jpg
Verbal Kint
12-02-08, 23:17
Nice job... looks good! I'm not a fan of a lot of the DIY jobs (or the results, rather) as most look pretty bad. lol. But you did a really nice job. Should definitely be proud of the results. :)
Nice job... looks good! I'm not a fan of a lot of the DIY jobs (or the results, rather) as most look pretty bad. lol. But you did a really nice job. Should definitely be proud of the results. :)
Thanks for the kind words Verbal. While I am pretty happy with the outcome, I don't think I will be doing it again. I think this is something better left to the pros.
S/F
+1 for a very nice job!
I bet you get some requests from other members.
Buckaroo
theblackknight
12-03-08, 00:30
That job is GTG! Stippling the MP always seems to make it look better too.
You must be a patient guy. I hate stippling. Takes too long and is too easy to mess up. Good results though, nice work.
The area underneath the trigger guard will rub the crap out of your finger. Try taking the side of the iron and going back and forth quickly over the area to smooth it out a bit. Using the side and going back and forth let you put heat into the plastic very slowly, and it gives a nice smooth result. I do this after I finish a front strap to even it out and prevent it from being too aggressive.
40W iron! I have best results with my little 15W and tips sharpened via Dremel or sander.
That looks good! Very well done IMO
wow thats nice!
I wish I had the balls to that an my G17.... :(
now lets remove that silly warning markings on the slide :D
docholliday
12-03-08, 14:57
Looks great, how does it feel compared to original?
Patrick Aherne
12-03-08, 15:51
I could give two squats what it looks like, usually, but that looks fantastic. What model of soldering iron would you use if you had to do it over? Any tips or things to avoid? I frigging hate how my issue USP is so slippery, so I may give this a try.
docholliday
12-03-08, 16:20
How did you control the depth of the soldering tip to make the pattern look so uniform?
RogerinTPA
12-03-08, 16:23
Excellent job! So what are you charging???:cool:
You must be a patient guy. I hate stippling. Takes too long and is too easy to mess up. Good results though, nice work.
The area underneath the trigger guard will rub the crap out of your finger. Try taking the side of the iron and going back and forth quickly over the area to smooth it out a bit. Using the side and going back and forth let you put heat into the plastic very slowly, and it gives a nice smooth result. I do this after I finish a front strap to even it out and prevent it from being too aggressive.
40W iron! I have best results with my little 15W and tips sharpened via Dremel or sander.
Thanks for the advise subzero. I agree with the 40W being too much, and if I had to do it all over again I would definitely use something close to 15W to 20W. The 40W runs close to 900 degrees. I tried the trick you said and on the trigger guard and it made a big difference. Thanks again.
S/F
I could give two squats what it looks like, usually, but that looks fantastic. What model of soldering iron would you use if you had to do it over? Any tips or things to avoid? I frigging hate how my issue USP is so slippery, so I may give this a try.
Patrick,
I would definitely still use the pen style iron with the fine tip but like I said on the post above, only 15 to 20W. The bigger tips leave a bigger track and I didn't like the way it looked but being that it is my very first one I still have a few more tricks to learn. I hope this helps.
S/F
How did you control the depth of the soldering tip to make the pattern look so uniform?
Doc,
Believe it or not it was all free hand. The tip is only about 1mm and I had to press the iron in one hole at a time. This is the reason why I would not want to do it again, at least not the entire pistol.
S/F
Nice work. I am not sure i would have the balls to go through with it either. But you definitely did an awesome job.
VooDoo6Actual
01-26-09, 09:47
Looks good.
Army Chief
01-26-09, 12:42
Looks like a case where your patience -- and bravery -- were well rewarded. No doubt you had to be surprised (and relieved) at the results yourself!
AC
I went a bit further and stippled my stainless CZ75B.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f43/mike_seale/CZ_Stippling-1.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f43/mike_seale/GP101_NEW.jpg
dirksterg30
01-26-09, 15:44
Nice job, tex. How long did that take you?
The Dumb Gun Collector
01-26-09, 17:53
I usually hate home stipple jobs but those look excellent.
dirkster,
Believe it or not that is only about 3 hours work. I actually use files instead of punches and strike the steel with them. This gives a less agressive stipple but still really gives something to grip onto. It is actually more texturing than stippling. One is round and the other is half round. I had a block of wood I cut down to fit into the mag well to help prevent any distortion as I was striking the stainless pretty hard to get the desired effect. I covered the whole surface in one direction, holding the file at 45 degrees looking at the surface and then swung the other way 45 degrees from center when going back up. In some of the radiused areas the round file worked best and in others the half round would cover lots of area with each strike. They are 14" bastard's made by Nicholson File company.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f43/mike_seale/Upgrade002.jpg
Those both look awesome.
Very ballsy to do, I would say.
Very ballsy.
But they do look good.
i dont want to hijack your thread so i will be brief, but i did my first stipple job to an M&P too. it was fairly easy. i sure was scared though! well, pics tell a thousand words.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v203/HAL_5555/Guns%20and%20Knives/Pistolas/picture334.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v203/HAL_5555/Guns%20and%20Knives/Pistolas/picture328.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v203/HAL_5555/Guns%20and%20Knives/Pistolas/picture324.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v203/HAL_5555/Guns%20and%20Knives/Pistolas/picture351.jpg
please let me know if i crowded your thread.
wow nice job guys!! :eek:
Hal,
Great work!!! Yours, like mine, looks more like texturing than stippling. I can imagine that job took some time.
My next project will be my XD45. Your work has inspired me to do something different with that polymer frame.
Thanks for the great pictures,
tex45acp
Nice work, looks great!
How does it feel compared to before?
Also, why do the area in front of the slide release?
Hal,
Great work!!! Yours, like mine, looks more like texturing than stippling. I can imagine that job took some time.
My next project will be my XD45. Your work has inspired me to do something different with that polymer frame.
Thanks for the great pictures,
tex45acp
yeah, it is more of a texturing if you think about it. it did not take too long. maybe just over an hour. the longest part was looking for the proper tip. this case, i cut off a old screwdriver and slid it into the soldering iron! i really like yours too. rock on! def post the XD!
Nice work, looks great!
How does it feel compared to before?
Also, why do the area in front of the slide release?
Thumb rest/grip
dirksterg30
02-03-09, 17:09
Very nice job, Hal. I'm tempted to try that on my M&P.
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