View Full Version : Red Line Assembly Lube
Everyone's favorite topic. Don't feel compelled to comment that everything works just use it etc. I want a light grease that isn't $10 an ounce, and several people here are using this one. Is anyone else? Any reason not to use it?
I like to use Red Line Oil's assembly lube grease on something that is going to sit a while. It is a very light grease and works great on all kinds of things.
The nice thing about using it is that you can put on as much as you want and not come back down the road and not find oil all over the rifle from the charging handle on down.
I use Redline Racing's assembly lube on mine.
When I had the stock trigger it kind of sucked. I took it out, cleaned everything up, and lubed it with the Redline and it was a shite load better.
EDIT: Anecdotal note......I just tried some RedLine Synthetic Red Assembly lube (which is barely a grease, must be like a NLGI .5) as a lube on the rails of my wife's BC and DAMN. It is ultra slick and very light weight. Just ridiculous. Night and day improvement over FireClean with just a tiny smear (so light you can't even see that it's there)....and that is saying something since FC is the slickest liquid lube I have yet used. $7.95 shipped if you're a Prime member. Just stupid slick.
However, I have found that using good moly grease or the new Redline synthetic assembly lube (4 oz grease tub) has greatly slowed cam pin wear in my LMT enhanced carrier using an NiB cam pin.
The best lube I have found is synthetic Redline engine assembly lube. It is a lot like Cherry Balmz and is designed to stay put, protect under harsh conditions, does not burn off, Flash point of 450*, has a ton of Molybidum in it. If it is good enough to build $100,000 race engines and protect them on initial startup under some extremely high pressures, friction, and temperature, I figured it would work well in my firearms. I have been using it for a few years now and is my go to lube for any part of a gun that slides. If it pivots it get a drop or two of Mobile1 oil.
https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/red-80312
62547
Redline assembly lube on the cam pin and BCG, and just about anything everywhere else.
Yeah, I use it, where I think its appropriate. Mostly on sears/striker, trigger contact points and pistol rails. Reason I don't use it on bolt and bolt carrier is because those can get really dirty and prefer a liquid that can suspend the dirt. Redline is great as a heavier than oil lube, very slick, good for high load areas, but oil still has a place where dirt is likely to collect, in my opinion. Agree w Dino11's assessment.
Mark
Did you seriously start a thread by quoting posts from other threads? Thats pretty next level.
Andy
Yes, yes I did. Preempting the comments "use the search function" and "why would you use that, get a gun lube."
Last guy i met who used assembly lube on his ar, used red loctite on his receiver extension which got into his buffer retainer. Just stick to proven products on the maybe 5 areas of the gun and lube the bcg with good oil. Your over thinking this shit, its 90% aluminum and most parts arent going to rust in storage unless you stick it in the wood shed in florida during the summer.
bamashooter
07-01-21, 07:14
Looks like you have satisfactorily answered the question with the quotes. Lucas makes better products. :rolleyes:
Last guy i met who used assembly lube on his ar, used red loctite on his receiver extension which got into his buffer retainer. Just stick to proven products on the maybe 5 areas of the gun and lube the bcg with good oil. Your over thinking this shit, its 90% aluminum and most parts arent going to rust in storage unless you stick it in the wood shed in florida during the summer.
That anecdote proves nothing. What makes boutique gun grease worth $10/ounce or more? Why are you talking about rust?
Looks like you have satisfactorily answered the question with the quotes. Lucas makes better products. :rolleyes:
Four (now five) users isn't the largest sample. Anything wrong with seeking additional experience? Why the eye roll?
Light grease? Then you have to turn to Molykote products. Stay within the synthetic stuff. Forget about everything else.
https://www.dupont.com/resource-center.html?BU=tni&tagId=dupont:brands/molykote;DuPont:type/greases
FWIW, I use SLIP 2000 grease and EWL 30 mixed with a little bit of Tetra grease and oil as my assembly lube and general lube, and it has worked extremely well. With the added benefit of dramatically reduced wear and really slick function. And it really lasts. I've converted all my shooting buddies over the past several years too.
I don't care to buy three or four different lubes and start mixing. I would prefer a simpler solution that gives 90% performance.
I don't care to buy three or four different lubes and start mixing. I would prefer a simpler solution that gives 90% performance.
Just go with the Slip 2000 EWL 30.
I have used quite a bit of Red Line Assembly Lube building high horsepower turbo and nitrous engines so some of that may have migrated into my gun cleaning stuff, it worked fine.
I do however tend to use "Gun" related cleaning products and lube. I really like the Lucas Oil Gun Products and I also recently have been using Cherry Balmz Gun Grease, that seems to be some good Gun Grease.
All the Gun related products may be more expensive but it isn't like I go through it like I go through ammo. 🤣
I assume you mean CherryBalmz. Since you've used that and Red Line Assembly Lube how similar are they? Do the boutique products do something the others don't?
I assume you mean CherryBalmz. Since you've used that and Red Line Assembly Lube how similar are they? Do the boutique products do something the others don't?
I’ve never used assembly lube, but I used Cherry Balmz for like 9 months. I found it did an excellent job of staying put, but eventually would crud up, and the gun would get sluggish. Some of my friends found the same. Full-time suppressed, so the guns get blacker than usual. I’m back on CLP, Go Juice, or the occasional dab of Lubriplate SFL-0. I think you’re the one that steered me back toward CLP, actually.
I assume you mean CherryBalmz. Since you've used that and Red Line Assembly Lube how similar are they? Do the boutique products do something the others don't?
Yeah, I screwed up the name, I will fix that.
Anyway I believe the Cherry Balmz does a better job sticking where its supposed to and catching the crud and holding it. I normally clean when it goes from the reddish, pinkish color to a cruddy blackish color.
The Red Line stuff to me seems to act like it picked up more of the unburned powder, carbon, and gunk faster. It seems to work well but it made my Carbine sluggish about as fast as the Lucas Gun Grease.
I don't want to tell you anything wrong, I really haven't put the two products to a side by side test although it would be cool and my buddy's and myself will be shooting some Sunday evening and Monday so I may be able to test it out a bit.
As far as what the "Gun Oil/Grease" does that automotive Oil/Grease dosen't, that is more me putting my faith into it than anything, sorta a placebo I guess, just trying to be as straightforward as I can, don't know if I helped answer anything or made it more difficult. 🤣
I think you’re the one that steered me back toward CLP, actually.
I am trying to think of how that would have happened. I do favor CLP, G96 currently, but I shouldn't have been making recommendations as I don't have the experience. Maybe I quoted someone with more authority, or asked something like how has CLP failed you that caused you to try it again.
For grease I've been using TW25B but it doesn't feel as slick as the factory grease on my MBT-2S, and it seems to dry out or separate sometimes maybe from interacting with other lubricants. The Red Line Assembly Lube is designed to blend into oil so I hope it would avoid that problem, and BufordTJustice described it as very slick. I want something that won't run, so I don't think Slip 2000 EWL 30 which is described as having the consistency of engine oil is it.
What is the Lubriplate like? Does it get gummy or chalky if mixed with other lubes? Is is good on sears?
don't know if I helped answer anything or made it more difficult. ��
I appreciate the effort.
I appreciate the effort.
No problem, I have learned a lot from your posts about other things, thank you.
I am trying to think of how that would have happened. I do favor CLP, G96 currently, but I shouldn't have been making recommendations as I don't have the experience. Maybe I quoted someone with more authority, or asked something like how has CLP failed you that caused you to try it again.
For grease I've been using TW25B but it doesn't feel as slick as the factory grease on my MBT-2S, and it seems to dry out or separate sometimes maybe from interacting with other lubricants. The Red Line Assembly Lube is designed to blend into oil so I hope it would avoid that problem, and BufordTJustice described it as very slick. I want something that won't run, so I don't think Slip 2000 EWL 30 which is described as having the consistency of engine oil is it.
What is the Lubriplate like? Does it get gummy or chalky if mixed with other lubes? Is is good on sears?
Someone PM’d me like a year ago with some details on the standard for current CLP, and I dove into a bit of research on it. I determined that the DoD had it figured out, at least as well as I would be able to, and it was the easy button.
TW25b is pretty good stuff. It does separate. It is excellent in beltfeds, and I have a lifetime supply from that. It seems pretty similar to Lubriplate SFL-0, maybe slightly thicker or stickier. Also, a bead of it across a sidewalk will kill the shit out of the giant ants in Ar Ramadi when they get stuck in it. I like the way it goops up a Q-Tip.
Lubriplate SFL-0 is awesome on sears, and thats mainly what I use it for, although lately, I find myself just using a little CLP instead of grabbing the syringe, with indistinguishable scores on paper or steel. I don’t deliberately mix it, but it does not seem to suffer from contact with oil. I learned about it (and AW-350) here, years ago: https://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/ The AW-350 oil in that article is also good to go, and inexpensive.
Unscientific.
Someone PM’d me like a year ago with some details on the standard for current CLP, and I dove into a bit of research on it. I determined that the DoD had it figured out, at least as well as I would be able to, and it was the easy button.
TW25b is pretty good stuff. It does separate. It is excellent in beltfeds, and I have a lifetime supply from that. It seems pretty similar to Lubriplate SFL-0, maybe slightly thicker or stickier. Also, a bead of it across a sidewalk will kill the shit out of the giant ants in Ar Ramadi when they get stuck in it. I like the way it goops up a Q-Tip.
Lubriplate SFL-0 is awesome on sears, and thats mainly what I use it for, although lately, I find myself just using a little CLP instead of grabbing the syringe, with indistinguishable scores on paper or steel. I don’t deliberately mix it, but it does not seem to suffer from contact with oil. I learned about it (and AW-350) here, years ago: https://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/ The AW-350 oil in that article is also good to go, and inexpensive.
Unscientific.
What CLP would you recommend? I have been using the Lucas CLP but I am about out of it. While I like using Grease where things slide violently I like CLP also for cleaning and protecting.
What CLP would you recommend? I have been using the Lucas CLP but I am about out of it. While I like using Grease where things slide violently I like CLP also for cleaning and protecting.
Whatever meets Mil-PRF 63460e or f. There are a few. Off memory, there seems to be two current standards, one for biodegradable, one for maybe/maybe not. I wouldn’t deliberately choose the biodegradeable one, but its probably fine. Radcolube, Breakfree, and G96 have varieties that claim to meet the standard. I’ve found all 3 to be capable of C, L, and P, and refilled a bunch of small bottles with them. My range’s Pro Shop carries Radco. I mostly have “milspec” Breakfree in my personal stash, but also have .mil stuff of unknown origin. I can’t really tell a difference in any brand of the current stuff, but the older stuff is a bit different. It effs my nose up and I hate it.
CLP really appeals to my laziness.
Someone PM’d me like a year ago with some details on the standard for current CLP, and I dove into a bit of research on it. I determined that the DoD had it figured out, at least as well as I would be able to, and it was the easy button.
Alright, I start to remember. Nice that your answering my questions ended up helping you too.
Alright, I start to remember. Nice that your answering my questions ended up helping you too.
Yes, thanks for engaging intelligently.
Whatever meets Mil-PRF 63460e or f. There are a few. Off memory, there seems to be two current standards, one for biodegradable, one for maybe/maybe not. I wouldn’t deliberately choose the biodegradeable one, but its probably fine. Radcolube, Breakfree, and G96 have varieties that claim to meet the standard. I’ve found all 3 to be capable of C, L, and P, and refilled a bunch of small bottles with them. My range’s Pro Shop carries Radco. I mostly have “milspec” Breakfree in my personal stash, but also have .mil stuff of unknown origin. I can’t really tell a difference in any brand of the current stuff, but the older stuff is a bit different. It effs my nose up and I hate it.
CLP really appeals to my laziness.
Thank you.
bamashooter
07-03-21, 07:46
That anecdote proves nothing. What makes boutique gun grease worth $10/ounce or more? Why are you talking about rust?
Four (now five) users isn't the largest sample. Anything wrong with seeking additional experience? Why the eye roll?
Because I thought it was a dumb post that deserved recognition of being such.
Another lube thread. Excellent.
Another lube thread. Excellent.
Its inevitable, so we may as well try to enjoy it. Its much better than the politics and the “oh no, there’s a scratch on my BCM/Colt/DD” or “rate my new toy” threads. At least when someone asks about oil, I can try to believe that some people here actually shoot enough to have run out of whatever the last shit they bought was.
Its inevitable, so we may as well try to enjoy it. Its much better than the politics and the “oh no, there’s a scratch on my...
Or the 'Is this wear normal?' thread / pictures after firing a single mag. :)
Someone PM’d me like a year ago with some details on the standard for current CLP, and I dove into a bit of research on it. I determined that the DoD had it figured out, at least as well as I would be able to, and it was the easy button.
TW25b is pretty good stuff. It does separate. It is excellent in beltfeds, and I have a lifetime supply from that. It seems pretty similar to Lubriplate SFL-0, maybe slightly thicker or stickier. Also, a bead of it across a sidewalk will kill the shit out of the giant ants in Ar Ramadi when they get stuck in it. I like the way it goops up a Q-Tip.
Lubriplate SFL-0 is awesome on sears, and thats mainly what I use it for, although lately, I find myself just using a little CLP instead of grabbing the syringe, with indistinguishable scores on paper or steel. I don’t deliberately mix it, but it does not seem to suffer from contact with oil. I learned about it (and AW-350) here, years ago: https://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/ The AW-350 oil in that article is also good to go, and inexpensive.
Unscientific.
Grant Cunningham puts forth some compelling info, and I purchase his Lubrikit some time back. I liked it a lot and then stubbed my toe on Cherrybalmz. It's all good, and I'm not shooting enough lately to find fault either way. The next time I do a deep clean I may go back to the Lubrikit, based on nothing more scientific than the alignment of the celestial bodies.
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