Swap my BCM Mod0 MDs for Linear Comps?

[grizzlyblake]

I have three 16" BCMs with the factory supplied BCM Mod 0 Comps and I'd like to swap them for something that provides the least blast for the shooters (me and my sons) for just plinking.

Would something like the BRT Covert Comp make any noticeable difference? Is this something I can pretty easily change on my own? I'm not an AR builder and have none of the specialty tools. All three rifles are 16" barrels with 13" MCMR rails so there's several inches of exposed barrel to work with.

I've read that BCM sometimes uses loc-tite and the factory MDs are difficult to remove. Is that true?

Are there any better non-NFA options for me?

[Diamondback]

First thing you'll need is vise, reaction rod and torque wrench. If you don't wanna buy the tools, just pay a local gunsmith you trust, should be only about $20 or so.

[AndyLate]

In my experience (doing the same thing), the difference is more noticeable to someone beside the gun than to the shooter. I can definitely tell when I am coaching/watching the shooter.

My BCM upper/Mod 0 had a crush washer, no drama or extra effort needed.

A reaction rod is not the best thing to use for changing MDs. I got away with it, but barrel blocks in a vice is the correct method.

Edited to say - I am a bit of a fan of the BRT Covert Comps and that the resale on the Mod 0 MDs is high enough to take some of the sting out of buying the linear comps.

Andy

[GH41]

I'll second AndyLate.. The reaction rod is the wrong tool for the job. Ask me how I know.

[Diamondback]

My bad, couldn't remember all the various URG support tools--doesn't help that in the absence of a vise and anywhere conducive to mounting it in the studio I outsource detail torqueing to a trusted smith.

[titsonritz]

I've read that BCM sometimes uses loc-tite and the factory MDs are difficult to remove. Is that true?

Not that I've seen.

You can do this job with some wood blocks in a vice and a crescent wrench.

Why not just go with a standard A2? About $20 to do both rifles.

[monty_d_33]

I’ve used these in the past with success


https://www.kawvalleyprecision.com/KVP-Linear-Compensator-p/kvp-linear-blk.htm


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[AndyLate]

Not that I've seen.

You can do this job with some wood blocks in a vice and a crescent wrench.

Why not just go with a standard A2? About $20 to do both rifles.

Like I said, I'm a bit of a fan of the Covert Comp, but I am fickle and cheap - most of my ARs run A2 FHs.

I think there is still a case to be made for a linear comp on a hunting rifle or one that will be used by shooters who need a bit of coaching.

Andy

[Clint]

What brand barrel was this?

The barrel extension should be torqued to 150 ft-lbs.

Assuming 66% residual torque, the barrel should be good for at least 100 ft-lbs before loosening.

Of course, stuff happens to reduce this limit like not actually torquing it enough initially or dunking the barrel assembly into 1100 degree molten salt bath...


I'll second AndyLate.. The reaction rod is the wrong tool for the job. Ask me how I know.

[grizzlyblake]

Not that I've seen.

You can do this job with some wood blocks in a vice and a crescent wrench.

Why not just go with a standard A2? About $20 to do both rifles.

I’ve only ever used A2s and never ever had a negative thought toward recoil or blast. 6920s, 14.5 DDs (extended A2x or whatever.

The BCMs to me are more blasty than I like. They were the only option when I bought these three uppers so I have them.

Do the linear compensators act any different than an A2 in reality? I just want them less loud and flashy for the kids.

Can I just buy a barrel block kit that clamps on the exposed 3” of barrel?

[jsbhike]

Considering where you will be clamping the barrel, the DIY wooden jaw blocks will probably work best unless the barrel diameter is the same as behind the gas block journal on A1/A2 or Hbar.

[MistWolf]

In my experience (doing the same thing), the difference is more noticeable to someone beside the gun than to the shooter. I can definitely tell when I am coaching/watching the shooter.

...barrel blocks in a vice is the correct method.

...I am a bit of a fan of the BRT Covert Comps...

This reflects my experience as well. Less side blast with the BRT (almost zero), even compared to an A2.

On barrels with a front sight base, I clamp the FSB in a vise using wood or nylon blocks to protect the finish. If there is no FSB, I clamp the barrel between the gas block & muzzle device (if there's room). The advantage is the length of barrel placed under torque is shorter and therefore stiffer. It may not be needed, but it is cheap insurance. However, if the MD is particularly stubborn, the advantage is noticeable.