View Full Version : Best CLP? Hoppe’s 9 vs Break Free CLP, Slip 2000, Ballistol, Frog Lube, Extreme Force
An interesting YouTube review.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fibRewlndLg&ab_channel=ProjectFarm
I thought I saw another post on this yesterday but didn't want spoilers before watching the video.
Project Farm videos are always informative and I find myself watching tests on products I don't care about because they are entertaining.
Some of the results were surprising, there are so many CLP products that he couldn't test them all, but I thought it was an accurate representation of most of the different styles of CLP's on the market.
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Lube threads are too much for me but this guy really puts a lot of effort into his videos. Should be interesting to watch.
An interesting YouTube review.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fibRewlndLg&ab_channel=ProjectFarm
Good vid. I'd be interested to see how Mobile One would compare to the dedicated gun products.
Interesting results. I'd kinda like to have seen double testing with some of the brands, just to try and eliminate one-off results.
Good vid. I'd be interested to see how Mobile One would compare to the dedicated gun products. I suspect Mobile One would be as good or better than any of them for all those tests.
I used to run that in my ARs but quit because it wouldn't stay where I wanted it. Quality of lube is one thing, but it's not the best criteria if it flows away.
I really like Project Farm. I've been using a big bottle of ALG purple oil. I don't think its a CLP, but it seems OK.
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Good vid. I'd be interested to see how Mobile One would compare to the dedicated gun products.He did a video on motor oils I believe it was Costco brand vs name brands. I think he did most tests except for the carbon and corrosion tests that you can compare portions of each video.
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Was surprised to see the amount of wear with the Slip2000. I wonder if the film strength is much much better with the EWL and EWL 30. I've used a lot of different lubes over the years, but I've never found anything slicker than Slip2000 EWL 30 with about 25% Tetra Gun Oil mixed in. The combination of the two is slicker than either one individually. I have no idea why, but it's unmistakable.
I used to run that in my ARs but quit because it wouldn't stay where I wanted it. Quality of lube is one thing, but it's not the best criteria if it flows away.
I can see that, probably still better than the ultra thin oils like Rem Oil and such.
I can see that, probably still better than the ultra thin oils like Rem Oil and such.
Pretty sure plain spit is better than Rem Oil.
titsonritz
01-17-22, 13:11
Been using Breakfree CLP since the '80s, guess I'll just stick with it.
Been using Breakfree CLP since the '80s, guess I'll just stick with it.
I have the gallon jug of it I use for cleaning. But I clean about 1 AR per year.
I was using EWL but I didn't like how thin it was. It always seemed to run off when in storage. Breakfree CLP has been fine. I don't see a reason to run out and try something else.
Interesting were the cold tests and how many lubes froze solid. Unless you're storing a weapon in a hot car, I can see cold being more of a problem than heat, AO dependent of course. I had an old duty holster where if I was outside in freezing weather too long I couldn't draw the handgun because the retention mechanism stiffened up too much so how things work in the cold is always something I pay attention too.
Been using Breakfree CLP since the '80s, guess I'll just stick with it.Same here except I started in the early 90's.
A shame he did not include G96.
Been using Breakfree CLP since the '80s, guess I'll just stick with it.
I started using Break Free CLP in the 1970's and still use it when someone gives me a bottle.
I started using Mobil 1 on my AR's, M1A's, M1 Garands, M1 Carbines, Glocks, 1911's, etc. in the 1990's and have had very good luck with it.
I'm very surprised that Break-Free CLP did better than Slip EWL, especially in preventing wear. I was led to believe that Break-Free was not as good.
I have been on a very slow road process of trying to convert over from Break-Free to Slip products, but maybe I won't be continuing on that path.
I was surprised by the overall results. The most surprising aspect was how poorly Ballistol fared. Won't be buying any of that again as I've never found it to be a great carbon remover and it bothers my nose something awful.
I too wish he'd included G96 in the testing. Maybe he'll do a round two. Was really glad he did the cold test as the seemed to have separated the men from the boys.
I was surprised by the overall results. The most surprising aspect was how poorly Ballistol fared. Won't be buying any of that again as I've never found it to be a great carbon remover and it bothers my nose something awful.
I too wish he'd included G96 in the testing. Maybe he'll do a round two. Was really glad he did the cold test as the seemed to have separated the men from the boys.
Ballistol works great on cleaning black powder residue from muzzle loading firearms. It also does a good job of cleaning a Mauser after shooting corrosive ammunition. That's all I use Ballistol to clean and do not use it as a lube.
Ballistol works great on cleaning black powder residue from muzzle loading firearms. It also does a good job of cleaning a Mauser after shooting corrosive ammunition. That's all I use Ballistol to clean and do not use it as a lube.
I use a 5 gallon bucket of soapy water on my muzzle loader.
But it’s an all stainless CVA and not a frontier style where all the wood would make that more problematic.
I’ll keep Ballistol in mind for that use however.
Interesting...I mainly use Slip2000 but I also use their grease on my ARs, but they are run wet for the most part.
Most handguns get Slip, but the legacy Sigs get Slip and Geissele grease. The GoJuice is too runny. Also run SuperLube and sometimes Clean Break Free and MPro
I also make sure all guns have visible lube and I like to have options...Clenzoil looks interesting...
I use a 5 gallon bucket of soapy water on my muzzle loader.
But it’s an all stainless CVA and not a frontier style where all the wood would make that more problematic.
I’ll keep Ballistol in mind for that use however.
Ballistol on a patch is handy for cleaning the bore of a muzzle loader without removing the barrel. If I clean a Hawken style rifle, it's easy to remove the barrel and I use a 5 gallon bucket of soapy water like you do. In either case, I lube the barrel with Mobil 1 and remove the oil with isopropyl alcohol before shooting.
Colt Carson
01-19-22, 21:32
I know a lot of folks use Slip 2000 EWL, but I found the Wilson Combat oils perform better. You can get WC oil to stay put when needed, or flow and creep when needed, depending on which viscosity you use. The WC oil feels slicker when operating the firearm, compared to the EWL.
Some lubes are just that and some are CLP but cleaning alone does not eliminate other things.
For instance try this on your next session.
Shoot ten round groups then clean your barrel with whatever turns you on and shoot the same groups again and see if they group the same. Some lubes are actually too good because if the bullet can't get a grip on the lands it will go straight for a bit and destroy the bearing surface on the bullets until the lube is shot out of the barrel and the group size comes back down.
The WTB at Quantico figured that out quickly in the 80s when CLP came out. It cleaned good but the group sizes were significantly larger and they told me it took over 20 rounds of 7.62 through the Match M14s to burn out the CLP and smaller groups returned.
If you are in a 20 shot match your scope is going to be affected significantly if the lube is too good.
I trained a guy up to be a shooter and we went off to the Army about 1990 and was in put in artillery. He came by to see me and told me the NCOs were going ape because they could not get first round on target with 105s.
I asked him what they were cleaning the barrels with and he said CLP. I told him what I knew and he could not believe it so we went to the range and he shot my rifle he shot before he enlisted and it shot the same. I had him clean barrel with CLP and he shot again and the group really opened up. I told him to keep shooting groups and after about 20 wild shots off call it started grouping again like he knew it should.
He just retired out of the Army and he asked if he could buy the rifle he shot and I sold it to him. He won't be putting CLP in it.
I clean with Ed's Red I make myself. 1/3 Mercon Dexron Transmission Fluid, 1/3 k1 Kersene or off road diesel fuel,and 1/3rd mineral spirits. Been using it 30 years. No rust, no wild shots. I make up 1 1/2 gals at a time. Ed's original formula called for acetone but I get so much on me I did not add the acetone, just the first three.
Ballistol on a patch is handy for cleaning the bore of a muzzle loader without removing the barrel. If I clean a Hawken style rifle, it's easy to remove the barrel and I use a 5 gallon bucket of soapy water like you do. In either case, I lube the barrel with Mobil 1 and remove the oil with isopropyl alcohol before shooting.
I use very hot water in the bucket, then dry the bore and lube it lightly with bore butter while its still hot. Might save you that isopropyl removal step, but I’m an occasional Hawken shooter, not an expert. I’m told that bore butter doesn’t have the detrimental effect on powder that regular oils have, and its thick enough to stay put at “comfortable” temps, at least with such a light coating.
I mostly just bore snake my bore (AR15) and leave it alone. If I was really giving it a clean it would get some isopropyl patches.
Clenzoil is great stuff. Been using it for years. That and Break Free CLP/LP also.
Be advised that bore snakes if not pulled out the muzzle very straight with bore center line can also damage the crown causing the bullet to yaw as it leaves the muzzle. This is why the muzzle erosion gages were fielded by the Civilian Marksmanship program.
https://forums.thecmp.org/archive/index.php/t-119773.html
I wouldn't argue that being a possibility but I would argue to the degree in which it would even matter.
Do a search for Swiss K31 rifle manuals printed by Swiss gov't and it shows pics of muzzles being ruined by pull through cleaning kits.
If you damage the last few thousands of inch of muzzle the groups will open up.
https://forums.thecmp.org/showthread.php?t=42891
Do a search for Swiss K31 rifle manuals printed by Swiss gov't and it shows pics of muzzles being ruined by pull through cleaning kits.
If you damage the last few thousands of inch of muzzle the groups will open up.
Really? A 1931 production rifle manual is your source? The other link you posted is nothing but conjecture. One guy writes about a test that was performed where a "few thousands" off of the muzzle made a difference. Do you really thing a boresnake is taking that much material?
A 77gr bullet at ~2700 FPS is going to have MUCH more of a significant effect on the muzzle wear than lazily dragging a bore snake slightly off axis. Its a little Pedantic.
fedupflyer
01-22-22, 14:36
I prefer M Pro 7.
Seems to clean very well and it doesn't smell.
I’ve been using Clenzoil for a while, not for any specific reason, and it seems like I made the correct decision. 🙂
A 77gr bullet at ~2700 FPS is going to have MUCH more of a significant effect on the muzzle wear than lazily dragging a bore snake slightly off axis. Its a little Pedantic.
Yeah. You'd have to have morons pulling the snake out at a steep angle to start to show damage. And didn't the swiss have that bi-metal jacket bullet that wears the shit out of barrels anyway???
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