View Full Version : Where to put a new gun safe...?
Blinking Dog
12-15-08, 15:54
My wife said she wanted me to get a gun safe for Christmas, which is kind of cool on her part so I want to take advantage of it, but I’ve never owned one so I’m kind of unsure of a few things. So I could use some help thinking through pros and cons.
I have my guns in various cases (like Pelican cases) now so if I get a safe I want a good one, with fire resistance, heavy duty steel, etc. I have done some internet shopping at Cabelas and Bass Pro and am familiar with their stuff…pretty expensive, but I’m hoping for a sale. So let’s put price aside for a minute.
I think my biggest concern is where to put the safe. Option 1: upstairs; Option 2: garage.
Option 1: I have a 2-story house with an unfinished storage room above my garage which is accessible only from the upstairs. That is where I’d ideally put the safe. But, I see safes like what I want are 500 or 600 pounds and that makes me wonder if my floor can handle it. Plus, I’d have to get it up the stairs and I have a landing about ¾ of the way up and at the landing the stairs do a 180. I don’t want to hire movers because I’m paranoid of a moving company knowing (a) I have a gun safe and (b) exactly where it is.
Pros: Hidden from plain/easy sight. Easily accessible to me.
Cons: Hard to get into place (I assume). Not sure if 2nd floor structure can handle it.
Option 2: My garage is in the back of my house accessible from the alley, so neighbors or people in the street can’t easily see in. And we don’t keep our garage open for any length of time typically. So it would be easy to get a safe positioned in the garage I would think, and maybe I could build a little closet around it as a disguise. Unfortunately it would be a little more susceptible to potential moisture and temperature fluctuations, but I assume a dehumidifier could fix the moisture concern. I also think that if I have the safe in the garage my paranoia will not let me put all my guns down there…I’ll still want a few upstairs easily accessible which may defeat the purpose of the safe somewhat.
Pros: Easier to get in to the house. No structure issues.
Cons: Not as easy to get to for me. Easier to steal/hack in to in that location.
Any advice is appreciated…on the pros and cons of location…or perhaps even if I need a gun safe…I’m beginning to wonder.
I don't know anything about you 2nd story structure. But I can tell you I wouldn't want the safe in the garage. Even more so with it facing an alley.
No basement? That would be the best place for it, in my opinion.
Given your two choices I'd take the 2nd floor, assuming the floor can support it (which I imagine it would). If I had it in the garage I'd be concerned with how easy it would be to back a moving truck up to it and have a couple of guys with a dolly take off with it.
Keep in mind: in the event of a fire, everything that was on the second floor will most likely end up on the first floor, or the basement.
Northwoods
12-15-08, 16:36
Honestly, it depends on the size. Personally I'd stick it in the inside of my bedroom closet.... easy to get to at night, if heaven forbid you ever needed to.
Dan Goodwin
12-15-08, 16:52
I am pondering the same issues, but my problem is a relatively small house/floor space vs. a somewhat damp garage.
Can the dehumidifier rods keep the rust at bay if normal maintenance is followed?
P.S. You need to have a gun handy, not in a safe, when trouble comes.
I'd say if a basement is applicable, that's the route. If someone were to break in, they have to get past you and your family, down the stairs, break open teh safe (unlikely) or carry the safe out (impossible) without alerting you.
That said, if there is no basement, I'd go second story. Find the main support beam in the house. Put the safe right on top of the main beam, and you won't have a problem at all. It'll be plenty strong, and keep it away from the nosey neighbors. What kind of floors are up there now? Depending on the flooring type, I would put a 3/4" peice of plywood under the safe, but it isn't really necessary. Set it in place, and forget it.
As far as getting in place, get a few buddies over, buy them dinner/beer, and take a crack at it. I basically put my safe (300 lbs) down the basement by myself, with the assistance of my father just to help guide it down teh first step. Pulled every muscle in my back, but it's down there :p If not, enlist some moving guys. Don't tell them it's a gun safe (i.e. before they get there, take it out of the box). I'd rather have it in a safe location, and have two people know I have a safe for valuables then hump it up the stairs on my own.
And God help them if they really want to find out whats in the safe :cool:
Blinking Dog
12-15-08, 17:03
No basement.
I keep my HD gun in a gun vault in a handy location and it will stay there vs the safe.
If the safe is in the storage room upstairs it will be near my bedroom in case I need to access it at night. My home setup right now is kind of geared towards "defending the stairwell" since all our bedrooms are upstairs. Going downstairs to the garage to fetch a long gun kind of runs contrary to that concept.
Another vote for the 2nd story as well. Keep the firearms where you control access to them (you dont with a garage facing the alley). If you have a walk in closet, try putting it in there. If you are concerned about floor weight and this space is above the garage, you can put a support under it.
I have a fairly large master bedroom so my safe is on the room in the corner. It is easily accessible, out of the way and it actually looks nice (glossy black finish). I was also fortunate in that I was able to have it delivered by someone who actually moved it to its' resting place and not just curb service. Something to consider. He was licensed, bonded and insured up to 1,000.000 for damage.
citizensoldier16
12-15-08, 17:45
My father has a 30-gun Heritage safe on the second floor with no problem. It'll be a b**** getting it up there, but it'll be okay. Get 3 friends together, a handtruck, and a sixpack and you'll be good to go.
Another note...look at the location of where you want the safe. If it's directly above a 1st floor wall, you'll have plenty of support.
I've always wondered about delivery. Unfortunately I don't have as many friends in my new state that moving a safe would require, so I would need some help. What about purchasing and arranging delivery from a local safe/lock dealer? I too am leary of just any warehouse worker delivering a safe.
A gun safe is best secured when it is bolted down (from inside the safe) to a concrete slab. In that way, it cannot be so easily tipped over and then subjected to a prybar attack.
In researching a gun safe purchase I came up with certain minimum requirements... for steel gauge, hinge configuration, lock type and fire protection... None of the cheap safes were acceptable.
A gun safe should protect your assets from all but the most determined intruder, protect those assets from fire damage and provide you with peace of mind while away from home.
Here is a link to a great article that addresses the key issues. This was my starting point for research...
http://www.6mmbr.com/gunsafes.html
And here is a YouTube video that shows how easily an un-secured safe can be compromised...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBhOjWHbD6M
At the end of the day you have to weigh the price/performance equation based on your own situation and needs. Good luck.
I'd put it on the second floor, either in your bonus room or your master bedroom. I helped a buddy of mine schlep a 27 or 28 cubic foot Liberty safe (600+ pounds) up to a third floor apartment. Pizza and beer is an acceptable form of payment for such favors, as is reciprocal safe moving.
Master Bedroom, emergency accessability is everything.
Toten Kopf
12-15-08, 18:34
************end of line
Those Zanotti safes are cool! Pricey... and a little on the light side in terms of steel gauge... but man they are easy to move... and when bolted down do the job...
If you are an apartment dweller... expect or plan to move... or have weight or second floor issues... they are a good choice...
Mentioned in the gun safe buyers guide...
The safe needs to be where it is air conditioned.
A golden rod will not cut it.
One of mine is on the second floor..been fine. It's the smaller of the two and is 750lbs empty. My larger safe, an AMSEC, is 1,250lbs empty and it's on the first floor. I had the crawl space reinforced, just in case.
I hired some safe movers..licensed, bonded, and local sheriffs (as it turned out). Great guys and I'd be happy to use them again. They treated the safe and my house as if it was their own. My regular movers didn't do that on the first safe I bought and you can tell. Just talk to the place you are buying from for recommendations.
spring1271
12-15-08, 20:04
Keep in mind the risk a structure fire would cause with a safe on the upper floors. Structure fires can weaken a floor very fast and with the added weight of the safe you mind find the safe in the basement anyway. And the fall would compromise the integrity of the safe. And of course lets hope it doesnt hit a Firefighter on the way down!! Just a thought but seen it happen.
I just purchased a safe a couple of weeks ago from Cabelas. It is a Cabelas safe made by Champion. I am very happy with it! Be sure to really check out the quality difference out there by a lot of safe builders. Champion uses a full weld not spot welds. Liberty for example does the spot weld along with many others. I was NOT impressed with Bass Pro safes, I think Cabelas had a much better selection with much higher quality. Cabelas also has interest free and no payment for 12 months if that matters to you.
The safe I purchased weighs around 770 empty and is on a second story and in my master closet. There is no issue at all with the weight. Think about the weight of washer and dryers full of water etc on a second story floor. Also the weight of furniture, large TV's, bathtubs or a couple 200 lb people standing in the same area. The floor in a home will carry a lot more weight then you would think. I had it moved in by 4 guys with an appliance dolly with no issues and I had 2 flights of 18 stairs per story to go up.
Good luck on your purchase!
I think your second floor will more than support the weight. It's static weight, and hell I'm almost 250#, I think me and another simmilar sized guy standing near each other wouldn't come crashing through the floor.
Good luck, and good score on the Christmas gift!
-RD62
My dad ordered a gun safe from these people (http://www.sportsmansteelsafes.com/) who are based in Houston. The guy who delivered the safe had a badass mechanical dolly that could climb stairs so I wouldnt worry about how to get it upstairs if whoever is delivering it has one of those.
there are tool rental places that rent those lift assist/pneumatic(sp?) dollys for moving heavy items up and down stairs. def look into one of those if you are going to move it in yourself.
i'd also stay away from the garage option due to the temp swings. and no matter where you stick it look into re-enforcing the floor and even bolting it down to make it more difficult to steal/tip over.
from those i know with safes i've gathered the most important rule is to decide how big a safe you need right now and then buy the next size up, if not larger...
You might consider one of those safes that fit in a closet. Ideally one that would bolt to wall studs w/o having to cut a section of the wall for a flush fit. You want easy access and security. I have a 500lb Browning floor safe and it is a PITA when considering a move. It's great if you have the space and environment otherwise something on a smaller scale is easier to mount and move.
I vote for second floor.
Mount as close to a load bearing wall as you can. A corner with 2 load bearing walls is even better.
I googled a bit and stole some of what I found that may be of use:
In the United States the minimum design floor live loads are usually stipulated in pounds per square foot (psf) by either state or local building codes. An example of typical design live loads might be 200 or 150 psf for a storage warehouse, 100 psf for a public meeting room, 50 psf for an office and 40 psf for a single family residence. So, your home most likely has the capacity to safely support a uniform live load of at least 40 psf. But keep in mind that this design live load is theoretically spread uniformly over the entire floor from wall to wall throughout your entire house. It is not a maximum load on any given area of the floor, it is just a theoretical average load that is used to design the floor for loads that are initially unknown. Some people find this confusing because in reality it is not the floor pressure (in psf) that matters at all, it is the floor load in pounds that really creates the stress in the primary structural framing members.
2x10 YP on 16" centers can span 17 feet carrying a 40psf live load (non permanent things like you, the furniture, the games) and 10 psf dead load (the physical weight of materials- the wood joists, the flooring, the gypsum hanging on the ceiling below, etc).
Jack_Stroker
12-16-08, 12:01
Well putting the safe upstairs or whatever is a nice idea, but the problem is that in the event of a fire not only will the safe be subjected to heat, but potentially falling as well. This isn't going to be good for your guns even if the safe does hold up. I don't like it in the garage either but if you do have to do it, bolt it to the concrete slab. You can use dessecant and or a dehumidifier to combat the moisture. This is what I'm doing and it has worked well so far.
I wanted mine in the bedroom but it had to cross a ton of ceramique tiles to get there. I'm sure the weight might have been an issue for the tiles. I'm still debating moving it into the bedroom but that means using planks or something to distribute the weight while I move it and it also means cutting holes in the carpet to bolt it down. Because frankly, it isn't worth a shit as far as preventing theft if it isn't bolted down. If it can be pushed over it will be much easier to get into.
I am getting myself one for Xmas....and its going in my bedroom. If its 2AM and someone comes in the first floor and T-Rex (My chocolate lab..lol) hears them and alerts me, I need access to my stuff fast and without having to leave the floor my wife and 3 children are on. If I put my safe downstairs in the basement or even in the living room... I would be tempted to leave at least one gun out of it and in my room. That defeats the reason to have the safe. Its not about someone stealing my stuff, I have insurance for that. What I can not replace is a wife that treats me pretty dang good, a 3 yr old boy, a 8 yr old girl, and a 13 yr old boy. Those are my ONLY irreplaceable and precious commodities. Those are also the only things I am willing to kill to defend.
So to me putting the safe downstairs is a deal breaker. I want secure storage for my stuff in an area that is most likley a tactical ADVANTAGE if the unthinkable would ever come at me. I must secure the safety of the mischievious ones that lurk around the house. I dont care what happens to my guns during a house fire so long as I am hugging my wife and children on the front lawn as we watch it burn! Once again, Erie Insurance gets a monthly check to make sure I'll be OK in the event of a loss.
1: You NEED a safe. Miscreants get into your house when you're not there and run off with the pelican cases easy as pie. (please read my safe article in the new AMERICAN HANDGUNNER -- I've plugged this too many times)
2: I've had several gun safe sin several houses and you know where I've had them bolted to the floor?
RIGHT in the living room. Yeah.
A beautiful Cannon Safe is ART. Why hide it? There's room on top to put things. Sun Welding in Simi Valley California also sells their safe with an OAK cabinet that surrounds it -- so it looks like some big closet.
3: Don't get a cheap safe. A big Cannon is around a grand from Costco. Worth it (retail closer to 2K) lifetime guarantee, fireproof, etc., and
4: it has to be someplace that you can get in in and BOLT TO THE floor. Anyone with a appliance dolly can pull up, get in your garage and haul the safe away.
Jack_Stroker
12-16-08, 14:49
I am getting myself one for Xmas....and its going in my bedroom. If its 2AM and someone comes in the first floor and T-Rex (My chocolate lab..lol) hears them and alerts me, I need access to my stuff fast and without having to leave the floor my wife and 3 children are on. If I put my safe downstairs in the basement or even in the living room... I would be tempted to leave at least one gun out of it and in my room. That defeats the reason to have the safe. Its not about someone stealing my stuff, I have insurance for that. What I can not replace is a wife that treats me pretty dang good, a 3 yr old boy, a 8 yr old girl, and a 13 yr old boy. Those are my ONLY irreplaceable and precious commodities. Those are also the only things I am willing to kill to defend.
So to me putting the safe downstairs is a deal breaker. I want secure storage for my stuff in an area that is most likley a tactical ADVANTAGE if the unthinkable would ever come at me. I must secure the safety of the mischievious ones that lurk around the house. I dont care what happens to my guns during a house fire so long as I am hugging my wife and children on the front lawn as we watch it burn! Once again, Erie Insurance gets a monthly check to make sure I'll be OK in the event of a loss.
I have my master bedroom downstairs and my safe is in another part of the house. I keep a couple guns out in my room so that I have quick access to them in case I need to have them. I don't think fumbling around trying to work a combination lock under duress in the dark is a good way to protect myself or anyone else in my house. In that vein I'd hardly call placing the safe in your bedroom a tactical advantage. Anything that delays your response time is a liability. As far as I am concerned the safe's only function and purpose is to slow thieves down and prevent them from taking stuff from me while I'm not home. Hopefully to the point where they will give up and leave. Insurance paying for my guns isn't the issue that concerns me the most. I don't want thieves getting my guns so they can go out and commit crimes and or kill people with them. I think this is the responsible thing to do. Replacing them in the event of a fire or something along those lines is fine. Again that is what insurance is for but for me thieves getting them is unacceptable.
DocMinster
12-16-08, 16:06
I have My 900 lb (empty) Cannon safe on my first floor (I have a basement)... I had concerns about weight until I called Cannon directly that explained the surface area is spread out enough not to worry.
If you have questions call any reputable safe company and ask them ...they will explain the math.
i'm a general contractor. the floor will hold the weight. your subfloor and flooring spreads the weight out over multiple joists. put it against an outside wall if you're at all concerned about it- doesn't have to be load-bearing, either. all "load-bearing" means is that's currently bearing a load, but all exterior walls are framed exactly the same and will bear up under loads. and if it's post-n-beam, put it right smack in the middle of room, for all your house cares.
I don't think fumbling around trying to work a combination lock under duress in the dark is a good way to protect myself or anyone else in my house. In that vein I'd hardly call placing the safe in your bedroom a tactical advantage. Anything that delays your response time is a liability.
I'll agree, but I'll counter ;)
I have the Glock 9mm beside the head of my waterbed in a little black box with an electronic hand pad on it. In total darkness I can have it open in under 10 seconds, maybe under 5. That has the glock with a 17rd clip full of defense ammo and a second 17rd clip beside it. One is in the chamber at all times on my glock while it rests in the gun box. I dont know if the box I have is even made any longer. Its a black steel case with a black rubber "hand print" on top and each finger tip has a micro switch. If you know the correct order to press your finger tips, it opens immediately. It has a back up keyhole for if the batteries die. I chjange the batteries every new year and I have never had them die. With 32rds of my 9mm, and my wifes semi auto .38 in that box as well, I feel that I can make it the 10 feet to my safe while she covers the stairs leading up to our children. And trust me, if your coming towards our children.....she's going to shoot to kill.
I know, we all have our opinions. I actually thought about the family room. I just dont see the zombies roaring thru the living room window or kicking in the door at dinner time. I live out in the country, I have no neihbors that can see or hear me and there is no way to enter my property in a hidden way. We are along a heavily travelled truck rout. Everyone out here knows each other and the cars/trucks we drive. That's too brazen of a move to drive out here from town past so many easy marks to go and try to pull something out here. They will (More likely)slink and sneak in the darkness and hope that ol T-Rex doesn't wake up. They would be sadly mistaken. In my lifetime though, I plan to NEVER have to ride a fear/adrenaline rush at 2am as I try to get to an assult weapon. That would be the very worst of all my bad days come true.
OK I'll weigh-in too. There are a few not so obvious things to consider. Generally speaking the weakest link on the safe is the lock & hinges on the door. Make sure the safe you consider has several bolts that extend into the door frame area on both the lock & hinge side when the door is closed & locked. This might seem rather simplistic & obvious, but really take a good look at the hinge side for the number of locking bolts. This is an area where corners are cut to make safes lower in price. Some doors can be lifted off the hinges in a very short time with a small hydraulic jack, even while closed/locked.
Bolt the safe down to the floor & wall. Enough said.
There's arguments for mounting the safe in any location or on any floor level. Sufficient support underneath the area where the safe will reside is vital. Don't assume too much regarding the construction of your dwelling. It pays to check this in advance. There's much to be said for a room over a garage as it can have additional support added underneath if needed. Also, the room could be converted to a proper 'toy room', office or library or whatever. Sometimes these type rooms have their own door that can be changed to a solid core door with heavier hinges & deadbolts as an added layer. These are usually only as good as the door frame, so choose wisely. Consider too the extreme temperatures that might be present & deal with them accordingly.
Basements have a layer of security in that it's difficult to remove the safe up the stairs. However, consideration should be given to moisture, sewer back-up & flooding. Don't assume too much here & make sure water intrusion won't be a problem. Flooding is ugly business & you won't be able to move the vault when loaded to dry underneath if you made a poor choice. If necessary, pour a small concrete pad to lift it off the floor & add bolts to the concrete to secure it.
Homeowner's insurance policies have specific limits regarding contents values. Don't assume your replacement value policy automatically gives you sufficient coverage. Replacement value on the building is different than replacement value on contents (personal property). There is a specific limit on contents & it's a percentage of your building coverage. This varies depending on the coverage & policy. A loss to your personal property will likely be covered to the contents limit of the policy, but loss due to theft has a much lower limit. For instance you might have $150,000 coverage for the building, but the coverage for contents loss due to theft might be only $10,000 - $20,000. Do your homework & read your policy - don't rely on your insurance agent alone as they often don't know. You claims dept. will know after the fact & then it's too late.
Do some homework & choose wisely. Good luck.
Go with the garage. The safe can be bolted down to make potential theft tougher. If they are going to break into the garage to get guns they will break into the house as well. You can bring your vehicle in, put the door down and load your vehicle without advertising to the entire neighborhood your have guns and are going to the range.
For years I have carted shit up and down stairs and it SUCKS! Not to mention it beats the piss out of the walls, which doesn’t usually make the wife happy unless you plan on painting all the time. Put all your cases and support material out in the garage as well. Build some nice shelves and an area where you can clean your weapons. The garage really makes a lot of sense.
Buy a good safe, don’t be cheap, and Try to get a safe that is air tight as possible. I have two safes in the garage now and the golden rods work just fine. In Ohio, I see adverse weather changes and have had no issues with rust but then guns that sit are always wiped down.
Of course you will keep fighting guns in the house to protect yourself. Thinking that you will have time to go to the safe is not an option in the middle of the night.
OK - something else. Yes, as pointed out by others, when fires occur floors fail. Remember that fires burn upwards. Structures generally have the most damage on upper levels for obvious reasons. Consider too that when the fire dept. is trying to put a fire out, water goes to the lowest level. I've been onsite a week after such events occurred & water was still knee to waist deep. Everything in the basement is soaking wet, submerged & under tons of debris. Just something else to consider.
OK - something else. Yes, as pointed out by others, when fires occur floors fail. Remember that fires burn upwards. Structures generally have the most damage on upper levels for obvious reasons. Consider too that when the fire dept. is trying to put a fire out, water goes to the lowest level. I've been onsite a week after such events occurred & water was still knee to waist deep. Everything in the basement is soaking wet, submerged & under tons of debris. Just something else to consider.
hell yea, man- i'd rather have my guns fall 3 stories into water than already be there
FYI - the golden rod does not remove moisture from the air... it maintains an inside-safe air temperature that makes condensation on your guns less likely... condensation = rust... so therefore the golden rod acts as a rust inhibitor... to remove moisture from the air inside your safe you need to use a desiccant... I use both...
Jack_Stroker
12-19-08, 10:18
That has the glock with a 17rd magazine full of defense ammo and a second 17rd magazine beside it. One is in the chamber at all times on my glock while it rests in the gun box.
Fixt. :cool:
Smart aleck. My pistols have clips and my rifles hav mags. My car does not, under any circumstances run on a motor, it runs on an engine. I dont buy gas, I buy fuel. Same crap, personal choice. :D
diving dave
12-19-08, 11:49
Safe is a great investment, no matter where you put it. The one I have weighs about 1000 lbs, and is bolted in concrete in my garage.
Smart aleck. My pistols have clips and my rifles hav mags. My car does not, under any circumstances run on a motor, it runs on an engine. I dont buy gas, I buy fuel. Same crap, personal choice. :D
your pistols have clips? are they m1 garand pistols?
Id put it on the 2ns floor where its easy to get and just reinforce the floor if need be
your pistols have clips? are they m1 garand pistols?
Thats the next best thing to a 40mm Glock or a 34mm Revolver! :D :p
SperlingPE
12-19-08, 12:23
Avoid structural issues - put it in the house, slab on grade (on concrete).
Given your choices - storage room. Contact local structural engineer to evaluate the support structure. It probably isn't rated for the weight you want to put up there. Remember to add the weight of what you put in the safe to the weight of the safe (ammo, guns, etc.)
Last choice in the garage
we recently purchased a Stack-On E029-SBC mostly due to budget constraints.
purpose is storage of ammo and a broken-down mid length rifle (no handgun(s) and other valuables) during vacations only
were concerned with fires too with regards to ammo. I was rest assured that there will be no Hollywood-type explosions, but, still wanted to be safe.
we decided finally to store it in the basement, where the concrete floor is still exposed (unfinished), so I can bolt it down. I'm just not sure where best to place it.
there's plenty of room underneath the stairs leading to the basement. I also considered the area around the sump pump, or other utilities, so as not to take any unnecessary footage.
I'm more leaning towards the area underneath the stairs, just in case we do finish the basement, we can place a hidden door there to access the vault.
any opinions or comments are welcomed. could really use an extra thinking mind here.
advance thanks
Sparky5019
11-02-13, 17:31
Liberty. No one is getting into it, bolted down or not and Liberty will repair or replace it free in the event of fire or attempted forced entry. Liberty includes a nice group of accessories. Their fire protection is the best I've heard of.
My answer to where to put it is...ANYWHERE!
http://www.libertysafe.com
Disclaimer:
I do not work for Liberty...though it would be kind of cool if I did.:p
The best place to put a safe is where no one knows it is there. I never understood why they apply high gloss paint and gold leaf lettering!! A fancy safe in the den may look cool but you are asking to have it removed. Maybe not by the crack head that steals your TV but by his buddies when they come back for more. Why advertise your safe?? Use your head and hide it! You may need to hire a professional to tell you how to do it. GH
The professionals know exactly where to go to find your safe. ..
This vid offers some insights on safes.
http://youtu.be/ltK-bDbADa8
As a structural engineer, I have seen my share of residential disasters. If you have any concerns about the structural integrity of your home, please consult a local engineer. Most likely your second floor is adequate for loads up to 500-lbs. However, there are many variables that come into play.
"The professionals know exactly where to go to find your safe"
I am not worried about professionals targeting my safe. I worry about the guy that breaks in to steal my TV seeing a big fancy safe in the corner of the den. If a professional is targeting the contents of your safe you may as well leave the door open! GH
SilverBullet432
11-03-13, 09:14
Maybe you would want to consider 2 safes? One upstairs and one downstairs, maybe you could get 2 quality safes for the price of one big safe.?? An idea.
Larry Vickers
11-03-13, 19:43
Rob Pincus thinks you should consider putting it in your kids room - at least that is what he suggested during a seminar at the last NRA convention....
:rolleyes:
Rob Pincus thinks you should consider putting it in your kids room - at least that is what he suggested during a seminar at the last NRA convention....
:rolleyes:
Wow, that's all I can think for that one...
TacticalSledgehammer
11-03-13, 19:57
I keep mine in my bedroom closet.
SilverBullet432
11-03-13, 20:37
Rob Pincus thinks you should consider putting it in your kids room - at least that is what he suggested during a seminar at the last NRA convention....
:rolleyes:
:sarcastic: Wow.
kinda off topic.
so we got the Stack-On E029-SBC still in the back of the 4Runner.
any suggestion (beside renting a heavy equipment) on how to get it down safely?
like how many 2x4 would I need to slide that thing off the 4Runner?
I'm already considering using the rails on the garage door to help lift, like a hoist???
I got a bad back so I'm trying not to mess with it.
brickboy240
11-05-13, 10:30
A garage in TX is no place for firearms...think of the rusting. I am in Houston and there is no friggin way I would put my safe in the garage.
Maybe in far West Texas, NM or AZ....but not in most other parts of Texas....too much moisture.
-brickboy240
A garage in TX is no place for firearms...think of the rusting. I am in Houston and there is no friggin way I would put my safe in the garage.
Maybe in far West Texas, NM or AZ....but not in most other parts of Texas....too much moisture.
-brickboy240
There are very effective ways to mitigate the rust issue, even in TX. I'm in Austin and while it ain't as bad a Houston none of my guns have rusted in my garage safe. There are electronic moisture control devices as well a cans of sillica to control moisture in safes. The ability to easily anchor the safe to the foundation without ripping up carpet and other stuff makes the garage a decent place to put a safe.
moisture aside, I wold not put it in my garage as that is where I keep my tools. I had someone break into my garage through a window, open the door and park their car in there while they loaded it, unseen, with the stuff from my house.
bolting to the floor is pretty sturdy but I doubt it would resist being pulled by a come-along or winch anchored to a truck...
brickboy240
11-05-13, 13:40
Yep.
Put it inside and bolt it to the sub floor. The stairs, coupled with the bolting down indoors doubles up on the "pain in the ass" factor in stealing it or tearing it open.
Besides, if you have an alarm and/or a dog...you get even more protection.
-brickboy240
Some thoughts on safe placement:
In case of extensive fire, if it's upstairs, it probably will crash down to first floor.
If it's in a basement, then everything will fall down around it and really bake the contents.
If in a garage, will your homeowner's insurance cover contents? I think that a garage site will eventually expose it to prying eyes belonging to those who may crack it.
An acquaintance in the gun safe building business told me that all of them can be defeated by a skilled person and even by a dummy with a cutting torch.
Consider having a bonded lock and safe company move and install it. They can do so with ease and not rear up your house.
Think twice before selecting your garage. In the winter in a humid environment, a garage safe will sweat inside and out.
Liberty. No one is getting into it, bolted down or not and Liberty will repair or replace it free in the event of fire or attempted forced entry. Liberty includes a nice group of accessories. Their fire protection is the best I've heard of.
My answer to where to put it is...ANYWHERE!
http://www.libertysafe.com
Disclaimer:
I do not work for Liberty...though it would be kind of cool if I did.:p
Unless it is a TRTL60x6, this is just not factual. All commercial gunsafes (ie Residential Security Containers) can be breached. You don't find diamond dealers using Liberty or any other RSC. If you want realistic maximum security at home, a TL30 or TL30X6 will get you there.
I'd love to have one of these, but I cannot imagine the cost of a TRTL60X6 sized large enough for long guns:
http://www.empiresafe.com/142/ism_super_platinum_trtl60x6
we recently purchased a Stack-On E029-SBC mostly due to budget constraints.
purpose is storage of ammo and a broken-down mid length rifle (no handgun(s) and other valuables) during vacations only
were concerned with fires too with regards to ammo. I was rest assured that there will be no Hollywood-type explosions, but, still wanted to be safe.
we decided finally to store it in the basement, where the concrete floor is still exposed (unfinished), so I can bolt it down. I'm just not sure where best to place it.
there's plenty of room underneath the stairs leading to the basement. I also considered the area around the sump pump, or other utilities, so as not to take any unnecessary footage.
I'm more leaning towards the area underneath the stairs, just in case we do finish the basement, we can place a hidden door there to access the vault.
any opinions or comments are welcomed. could really use an extra thinking mind here.
advance thanks
finally got it off the truck using the bed frames of a futon to slide it down, off the truck
buddy of mine used tie-downs to slide down to basement. positioned it where we need it.
lots of room
http://i.imgur.com/WNoYuTW.jpg
one fatal flaw, its easy to open if you know about this particular safe, is the key. If you know the model, you know what key to bring.
so, for that remedy, after we set the 8-key combination, we'll "plug" the keyhole to prevent any key to open it.
I meant to remove that tape btw
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.