View Full Version : Will Gun Safe prices ever go down?
Inflation is a killer. I must’ve missed the boat in the last year. I’m in need of a bigger and better safe. I’ve seen liberty safes shoot up almost $1000 depending on models. I decided on a Fort Knox that’ll be a very good upgrade over my Liberty Tactical 24 (which I even see for $1700 now!) and I’ll be ordering a Defender 6637. I was going to wait for sales and it’s been backfiring since everything is going up steadily if not rapidly. My question is should I bother waiting it out or should I pull the trigger since it’ll probably only go up more ?
LOL...no.
Last time prices on ANYTHING went down was a dramatic drop on car prices during the lockdown and gun and firearm related items a year prior to the election. Gun prices, and related items, were actually depressed and there were huge surpluses on the market.
Everyone had ammo IN STOCK and it wasn't terribly expensive.
The economy would have to make a massive recovery to see that again. Also pretty much everyone gets their steel or gun safe components from China and prices on ALL that stuff have gone up significantly.
The only good news is if China keeps ramping up the cost of steel, we "might" start making it here at home again.
You will waiting for a really long time for prices to come down. Go to an actual safe dealer…there is room for negotiation there than a big box store. Or buy a pre-owned.
I looked at the price to replace my safe due to a long distance move. Yeah..I am moving my safe. Lol!
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Yeah I think it’s the new normal now. I figured I’d ask before I call tomorrow and place the order. I’m told it’ll be approximately 6 months at this moment since steel is heavily shorted right now but who knows. If I’m spending this much I rather get a safe I want that’s big enough to fit what I have and still have room for more.
You will waiting for a really long time for prices to come down. Go to an actual safe dealer…there is room for negotiation there than a big box store. Or buy a pre-owned.
I looked at the price to replace my safe due to a long distance move. Yeah..I am moving my safe. Lol!
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So since there are no dealers by me that sell Fort Knox I had to call the neatest one to me. Price including delivery is very reasonable in comparison to what Fort Knox quoted me from the website.
It’s like a boat..always buy bigger. [emoji1787][emoji23][emoji23]
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It’s like a boat..always buy bigger. [emoji1787][emoji23][emoji23]
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Yep, should’ve got this from the start. My Tactical 24 I think is 59x28x22 if I’m not mistaken. I can fit everything I have now not including ammo but man it’s tight. I figure the 66x37x27 will be plenty space.
Yeah I think it’s the new normal now. I figured I’d ask before I call tomorrow and place the order. I’m told it’ll be approximately 6 months at this moment since steel is heavily shorted right now but who knows. If I’m spending this much I rather get a safe I want that’s big enough to fit what I have and still have room for more.
The other nice thing is in 6 months prices might actually even be higher and you will have locked in a better price.
Hard to believe there was once a time we all stored our firearms behind glass doors of gun cabinets and didn't think anything about it. I can remember when some people even had their firearms "on display" in their living room.
Yep, should’ve got this from the start. My Tactical 24 I think is 59x28x22 if I’m not mistaken. I can fit everything I have now not including ammo but man it’s tight. I figure the 66x37x27 will be plenty space.
I'm currently at 6 safes and I have some serious tetris games going on in some of them. I probably need 2 more safes.
Safes are made from sheet steel. Sheet steel is made from coiled steel. Coiled steel comes from overseas and is 300%+ up from what it was about 18 months ago. Don’t hold your breath on steel going down anytime soon. I think it’ll come down when Trump gets his 2nd term… America first and all that good stuff.
It's cheaper to replace the stolen guns! :jester:
It's cheaper to replace the stolen guns! :jester:
Haha, I don’t know about that.
But hey I also have insurance on mine.
Safes are made from sheet steel. Sheet steel is made from coiled steel. Coiled steel comes from overseas and is 300%+ up from what it was about 18 months ago. Don’t hold your breath on steel going down anytime soon. I think it’ll come down when Trump gets his 2nd term… America first and all that good stuff.
100%. Material costs right now are outrageous and don’t show any sign of slowing down.
‘Todays prices are tomorrows deals’
Steel is off the charts expensive right now. I sell metal roofing and we’re up 100% from two years ago. I bought a steel flat bed for one of my trucks in 2019 for $4500.. same bed today is $9000. I couldn’t even order an aluminum bed without a 9 month wait.
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The_War_Wagon
01-21-22, 16:42
Inflation is a killer.
One carefully planned for by banksters (Federal Reserve & gummint toadies, i.e. Pe-Lousy, Schmuckles, & Biteme) for their benefit!
Gun prices should go down by the end of Trump's 3rd term, even as they had by the end of his first term.
‘Todays prices are tomorrows deals’
Which feeds into the problem.
I’ve run out of room in my safe. Can’t afford to buy another at today’s prices, as has been pointed out here. The flip side is, i’m saving money because I have no where to store any new gun purchases. So eventually I’ll be able to afford a new safe, haha.
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Boy that sucks, I had not seen the prices rise on safes. I bought a fat Cannon from Costco for $1k last time I bought a safe. I have 4 safes with overflow at Marks. I will not buy a 5th, I need to dump inventory. I have not seen this crazy price increase.
I just checked sportsman warehouse and didn't see crazy price increases???
PB
Boy that sucks, I had not seen the prices rise on safes. I bought a fat Cannon from Costco for $1k last time I bought a safe. I have 4 safes with overflow at Marks. I will not buy a 5th, I need to dump inventory. I have not seen this crazy price increase.
I just checked sportsman warehouse and didn't see crazy price increases???
PB
I was going to get the Fatboy Jr Xtreme. It was $2200 in November. Now it’s $2800. At that price plus the cost of delivery is rather spend more money and get a nicer safe. That’s why I’m working on having a custom Fort Knox.
Averageman
01-22-22, 07:58
I bought two twenty rifle/carbine safes ten years ago, room to grow and all of that.
I need more room.
I always recommend finding a local safe and vault shop, buy a used reconditioned composite TL15, TL30, or TL30x6 depending upon where you are planning on placing the safe. A composite TL15 is excellent, typically not absurdly heavy, and used/reconditioned will be reasonably priced. It is orders of magnitude better than your typical “gun safe”, which is simply a RSC that is easy to defeat. Not to mention a number of current RSC gun safes are made overseas and are of questionable quality.
I was going to get the Fatboy Jr Xtreme. It was $2200 in November. Now it’s $2800. At that price plus the cost of delivery is rather spend more money and get a nicer safe. That’s why I’m working on having a custom Fort Knox.
I'm sure that will be a bad bad boy. Not to derail this thread, but to derail it a bit, how much do you want your safe to weigh? I have one safe, very expensive-highest burn rating-fattest bolts in the door but if I ever want to move it....It has to be done by professionals. I also have "Browning" & "Cannon" safes that weigh around 500 lbs that I can move if needed. And I kinda like that too.
So fellas what you say?
PB
I saw this guy from Vault Pro on Weapons Education. They give first responders and military discounts and they make this safe. I’d go with the bigger size.
https://www.vaultprousa.com/blue-line-safes
The other issue I’m having is the room where I want to put my safe has a 27.75” doorway from the inside jambs. Fort Knox told me the hardware can be removed to fit the safe but the dealers tell me that’s not true.
The other issue I’m having is the room where I want to put my safe has a 27.75” doorway from the inside jambs. Fort Knox told me the hardware can be removed to fit the safe but the dealers tell me that’s not true.
How much 'short' are you of it passing through?
If all you 'needed' was one more inch you could gain that by simply taking the door off and removing the stops from the jamb. Easy job and minimal tools needed. Pretty sure you could do that yourself if halfway inclined and handy with basic tools (razor knife, small flatbar, hammer, nails). Also minimal paint work needed afterwards to make it as though nothing happened.
If you needed more than that -
Easy to hire a trim carpenter to remove the existing door and jamb and then put it all back after the safe is inside where you want it. With the door / casing and jamb removed you will gain somewhere around 3 to 5 inches (possibly a tiny bit more). If not enough still the rough opening liners could be removed for a bit as well but will involve some sheetrock work after putting them back.
If I was doing a job like that (removing an entire door assembly and then putting it back later) it would likely eat up the better part of a work day (you would get charged for an entire day). A good trim / finish carpenter could easily do that job in such a way that minimal paint work would be needed after and you would never know the door had been touched after the fact.
Easy job in the grand scheme of getting a safe where you want it.
Last 'safe install' that I helped a friend with involved removing a serious chunk of the wall in the front of his house so the safe could be driven inside and positioned / placed where he wanted it with a forklift and then after the safe was positioned and the forklift gone all of that front wall and siding had to be replaced.
We then framed / built walls around the safe, hung the sheet rock around those new walls, hung and trimmed a door right in front of the safe door, painted everything... When all was said and done it looked like what should have been a closet in his home until you opened the door to the 'closet' and saw the huge ass safe door behind it. Casually walking through his home after the fact you would never know anything had been done. With the walls around the safe - Would take someone a very long time and be very noisy trying to get at the safe from the sides or the back (the weak points).
How much 'short' are you of it passing through?
If all you 'needed' was one more inch you could gain that by simply taking the door off and removing the stops from the jamb. Easy job and minimal tools needed. Pretty sure you could do that yourself if halfway inclined and handy with basic tools (razor knife, small flatbar, hammer, nails). Also minimal paint work needed afterwards to make it as though nothing happened.
If you needed more than that -
Easy to hire a trim carpenter to remove the existing door and jamb and then put it all back after the safe is inside where you want it. With the door / casing and jamb removed you will gain somewhere around 3 to 5 inches (possibly a tiny bit more). If not enough still the rough opening liners could be removed for a bit as well but will involve some sheetrock work after putting them back.
If I was doing a job like that (removing an entire door assembly and then putting it back later) it would likely eat up the better part of a work day (you would get charged for an entire day). A good trim / finish carpenter could easily do that job in such a way that minimal paint work would be needed after and you would never know the door had been touched after the fact.
Easy job in the grand scheme of getting a safe where you want it.
Last 'safe install' that I helped a friend with involved removing a serious chunk of the wall in the front of his house so the safe could be driven inside and positioned / placed where he wanted it with a forklift and then after the safe was positioned and the forklift gone all of that front wall and siding had to be replaced.
We then framed / built walls around the safe, hung the sheet rock around those new walls, hung and trimmed a door right in front of the safe door, painted everything... When all was said and done it looked like what should have been a closet in his home until you opened the door to the 'closet' and saw the huge ass safe door behind it. Casually walking through his home after the fact you would never know anything had been done. With the walls around the safe - Would take someone a very long time and be very noisy trying to get at the safe from the sides or the back (the weak points).
Oh absolutely. I’ve removed and installed many new doors and frames in my house. I’m not sure what the rough opening is of the frame. Fort Knox says their safe is about 30” deep including the hardware. They would probably still be real tight if I removed my entire door frame just to move it in. The Provault safe is 28” including hardware which should easily slide in with just the jambs removed from the door. That seems like the better option especially since the safe is much larger and more bang for the buck (it’s 72x40x28).
Oh absolutely. I’ve removed and installed many new doors and frames in my house. I’m not sure what the rough opening is of the frame. Fort Knox says their safe is about 30” deep including the hardware. They would probably still be real tight if I removed my entire door frame just to move it in. The Provault safe is 28” including hardware which should easily slide in with just the jambs removed from the door. That seems like the better option especially since the safe is much larger and more bang for the buck (it’s 72x40x28).
If you are at 27 3/4" now inside the jamb - You will definitely be bigger than 30" after removing the jamb assembly.
Rough openings are usually a few inches bigger on each side than the door / jamb assembly to allow for shimming / blocking. Almost never see one that is 'not' a few inches bigger unless a framer screwed up.
You should be fine with the bigger safe and not have to be messing with the opening liners or anything like that.
Can likely remove the top piece of casing on one side and be able to actually see and measure exactly how wide the rough opening is. Would be a better bet to just remove all of the casing from one side so you can see the opening. Less likely to mess up the miters on the casing at the top that way unless you know exactly how those joints were put together. (did they use glue or not?)
You can get bigger than 28" just by removing your stops. No need to remove entire jamb for that. You only 'need' a 1/4" and both of those door stops likely add up to 1"
If you’re dead set on a RSC vs an actual TL rated safe. At least reach out to a domestic manufacturer like Drake Safe Co. they are significantly stronger than any of the big box brands. And you can build to your desired specs. The last one I bought, the price wast too far off a big box safe. The weight is nearly double. And I got to trade fancy paint and logos for an interior set up for short guns.
I’m running out of room in my safes. But the plan is to build a house in the next couple years. And do a vault room when we build….
All safes are 28” to get through most interior doors. The extra us the lock or external hinges. You need to measure twice…you might get away with one side of the door jam removed.
Another possible solution is the removal of the combo dial. It isn’t that hard for the safe company. It isn’t like taking a slide off a Glock easy…but it might be easier than the door jam. Your measuring should point the direction of the easier path.
The previous recommendation of a TL safe is sound…if being broke into is a top concern. Downsides to such a safe are weight(to safes are significantly heavier), interior space(thicker walls will reduce usage storage), not set up for guns(tl safes are not designed with guns interior in mind, no dehumifier set up(tl are not receptive to holes cut for cord access, no light set up(see reason before this),and cost (tl safes are probably twice in cost as most gun safes.
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I don’t think a TL safe is necessary for my situation honestly. It certainly helps having 2 dogs in the house not locked up as well. I would like a safe that’s got better than average protection that’s why I looked at Sturdy safe, Vault pro, and Fort Knox. Fort Knox is obviously most well known but I’m just struggling to find a better deal with what Vault Pro seems to offer.
If you are at 27 3/4" now inside the jamb - You will definitely be bigger than 30" after removing the jamb assembly.
Rough openings are usually a few inches bigger on each side than the door / jamb assembly to allow for shimming / blocking. Almost never see one that is 'not' a few inches bigger unless a framer screwed up.
You should be fine with the bigger safe and not have to be messing with the opening liners or anything like that.
Can likely remove the top piece of casing on one side and be able to actually see and measure exactly how wide the rough opening is. Would be a better bet to just remove all of the casing from one side so you can see the opening. Less likely to mess up the miters on the casing at the top that way unless you know exactly how those joints were put together. (did they use glue or not?)
You can get bigger than 28" just by removing your stops. No need to remove entire jamb for that. You only 'need' a 1/4" and both of those door stops likely add up to 1"
So the Vault Pro, while being about 6” taller and 3” wider, would fit into the room without any messing with my door frame, the cost of shipping for just curbside (they don’t offer in home delivery for my area) puts them way over the quote I got for the Fort Knox delivered and installed. So with that it’s worth me having to remove the frame temporarily. The safe, I’m told, without the handle on it is roughly 28.5 to 29” deep. With that said I might be able to just removed both jambs to get it in the room. Home run but I’ll know for sure once he measures a more exact number. Regardless I’ll have time to figure out what needs to be done.
With that said I might be able to just removed both jambs to get it in the room. Home run but I’ll know for sure once he measures a more exact number. Regardless I’ll have time to figure out what needs to be done.
The jambs are attached to their header. It is an 'assembly' that is not really made where you can just remove one side or the other and it go back as solid as it once was 'easily'.
You are better off removing it all (as an 'assembly') and then putting it back the same way when done after getting the safe where you want it.
The jambs are attached to their header. It is an 'assembly' that is not really made where you can just remove one side or the other and it go back as solid as it once was 'easily'.
You are better off removing it all (as an 'assembly') and then putting it back the same way when done after getting the safe where you want it.
And that’s what I’ll be doing. Got an actual size of the safe (Fort Knox) with dial and handle wheel (minus the spokes) to be 28.5”. Frame with jambs removed is 28.75”. Vault pro delivery (curbside only) was way too much for my area.
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