View Full Version : M4 Modifications
I have done the following Modifications to my Colt M4
Installed
G Super 42 Spring and Buffer
G SSA-E trigger
Sharps Reliable Bolt
5 coil Extractor Spring with black insert
JP one piece gas Ring
Titanium Firing Pin V7
Nickle Boron Full Auto Carrier
POF Roller Cam Kit
SureFire M73 Handguards (kept from OIF2)
Knight handguard Panels (kept from OIF2)
Knight Front Grip (kept from OIF2)
YHM folding front sight with Lug
ARMS 40L-SP rear sight
Vltor EMOD stock
ARMS # 22H Scope Rings
Leupold 3HD 1.5x4 scope
M68 Aimpoint (kept from OIF2)
CMMG Ambi Safety
WMD Nitromet carbine gas Tube
VTAC Sling (kept from OIF2)
SureFire 951 Light (kept from OIF2)
Hogue Pistol Grip
Raptor SL charging handle on order
SureFire - WARCOMP 556 CTN FLASH HIDER on order
It’s a work in progress but almost their !
Titanium firing pin - LOL! :)
Whats the rationale on each of those things? We normally include that in this subforum.
I question whether or not the bolt is actually an upgrade.
I would dump the one piece gas ring setup as well as the Ti firing pin.
the AR-15 Junkie
04-17-22, 13:38
I have done the following Modifications to my Colt M4
Installed
G Super 42 Spring and Buffer
G SSA-E trigger
Sharps Reliable Bolt
5 coil Extractor Spring with black insert
JP one piece gas Ring
Titanium Firing Pin
Nickle Boron Full Auto Carrier
POF Roller Cam Kit
SureFire M73 Handguards (kept from OIF2)
Knight handguard Panels (kept from OIF2)
Knight Front Grip (kept from OIF2)
YHM folding front sight with Lug
ARMS 40L rear sight
Vltor EMOD stock
ARMS # 22 Scope Rings
Leupold 3HD 1.5x4 scope
M68 Aimpoint (kept from OIF2)
Ambidextrous Safety
WMD gas Tube
Raptor SL charging handle on order
It’s a work in progress but almost their !
I didn't see a single thing on that list I would put on or replace on any of my Colt M4s, dont take offense, you chose to cast your pearls before the swine. Your gun, if it makes you happy.
I have done the following Modifications to my Colt M4
Installed
G Super 42 Spring and Buffer
G SSA-E trigger
Sharps Reliable Bolt
5 coil Extractor Spring with black insert
JP one piece gas Ring
Titanium Firing Pin
Nickle Boron Full Auto Carrier
POF Roller Cam Kit
SureFire M73 Handguards (kept from OIF2)
Knight handguard Panels (kept from OIF2)
Knight Front Grip (kept from OIF2)
YHM folding front sight with Lug
ARMS 40L rear sight
Vltor EMOD stock
ARMS # 22 Scope Rings
Leupold 3HD 1.5x4 scope
M68 Aimpoint (kept from OIF2)
Ambidextrous Safety
WMD Nitromet gas Tube
VTAC Sling (kept from OIF2)
SureFire 951 Light (kept from OIF2)
Hogue Pistol Grip
Raptor SL charging handle on order
It’s a work in progress but almost their !
TAPCO is crying thy missed out.
post a pic and then later a range report when done.
PB
post a pic and then later a range report when done.
PB
Will Do ! Thanks
Leaveammoforme
04-17-22, 21:46
Wow! Nice upgrades! It's nice to see someone who knows how to get it done.
I'll give you $100 for the complete junky Colt BCG, action spring, buffer, A2 grip, charging handle and the fire control parts that you removed. I have a loaner I'm building and the low quality parts won't matter.
You can get an awesome looking muzzle device with the $100 to complete that sweet rifle.
your right I have my sights on a SureFire muzzle device .
I was thinking about the SureFire Pro Comp.
Wow!
I'll give you $100 for the complete junky Colt BCG, action spring, buffer, A2 grip, charging handle and the fire control parts that you removed. I have a loaner I'm building and the low quality parts won't matter.
I’ll do $125.
Regarding the muzzle device, I used and liked the Warcomp, only changing in preparation for a mixed-caliber suppressor purchase.
With that said, if you plan to suppress, note that Pew Science has found the Warcomp to be detrimental for sound suppression. Just as info. The flash hider (if unsuppressed) or brake (if suppressed) may be better options for you.
I’ll do $125.
I want the Colt gas tube...
:)
I would dump the one piece gas ring setup as well as the Ti firing pin.
In an AR, the firing pin is a direct contact pin, ie, when the hammer pushes the FP forward it maintains contact through indenting the primer. So, a lighter FP won't make any difference.
Lighter FP can only be a problem with inertial firing pins, like a 1911, where the momentum of the FP is the only source of energy for primer ignition.
The full force SSA-E hammer spring when teamed up with the lighter Titanium Firing pin provides very fast lock time
And excellent performance same setup I have on my MK 12 also.
The AR also has floating firing pin that does not make contact with the primer until the hammer falls.
My AR-15 Firing Pin is made from Grade 6 Titanium. E Series is the standard pin with only one step. 0.015 Longer Firing Pin for reliability on cheap Ammo. If I remember right the original M16 had a Titanium Firing pin but production cost switched to cheaper steel firing pins.
In an AR, the firing pin is a direct contact pin, ie, when the hammer pushes the FP forward it maintains contact through indenting the primer. So, a lighter FP won't make any difference.
Lighter FP can only be a problem with inertial firing pins, like a 1911, where the momentum of the FP is the only source of energy for primer ignition.
I was thinking about it from a strength and elasticity aspect, not weight or functionality.
I was thinking about it from a strength and elasticity aspect, not weight or functionality.
Ok
It’s a great combo setup SSA-E trigger and Titanium Firing pin. Try it !
https://www.firingpins.com/ar-15-titanium-firing-pin-wolf-and-russia
The full force SSA-E hammer spring when teamed up with the lighter Titanium Firing pin provides very fast lock time
And excellent performance same setup I have on my MK 12 also.
The AR also has floating firing pin that does not make contact with the primer until the hammer falls.
My AR-15 Firing Pin is made from Grade 6 Titanium. E Series is the standard pin with only one step. 0.015 Longer Firing Pin for reliability on cheap Ammo. If I remember right the original M16 had a Titanium Firing pin but production cost switched to cheaper steel firing pins.
Ok
It’s a great combo setup SSA-E trigger and Titanium Firing pin. Try it !
Fairly obvious you do not understand how the firing pin and hammer work together, OR what 'lock time' is, OR what range of FP protrusion you really need or should have.
You got screwed and bought really expensive snake oil due to the lack of understanding...
1) About your floating firing pin 'not making contact with the primer until the hammer falls' - What happens if you load a round and then eject it without pulling the trigger? Look really close at your primer and tell us what you see... What made that dimple right where the firing pin would have touched it if the hammer never fell???
2) Lock time - As lysander said "when the hammer pushes the FP forward it maintains contact through indenting the primer". Being lighter will not change anything with respect to 'lock time'. Will not do jack squat except lighten your wallet...
3) FP Protrusion - A wise person measures what he has before adjusting or replacing parts to get more. You could have (if it was needed) increased the FP Protrusion you had on your Colt firing pin that you had in seconds with stuff you likely had already there at your home.
The full force SSA-E hammer spring when teamed up with the lighter Titanium Firing pin provides very fast lock time
And excellent performance same setup I have on my MK 12 also.
The AR also has floating firing pin that does not make contact with the primer until the hammer falls.
My AR-15 Firing Pin is made from Grade 6 Titanium. E Series is the standard pin with only one step. 0.015 Longer Firing Pin for reliability on cheap Ammo. If I remember right the original M16 had a Titanium Firing pin but production cost switched to cheaper steel firing pins.
Uhhhh, . . . . no.
To speed up the lock time on a AR you need a) and stiffer spring, b) a lighter hammer, or c) both.
A lighter firing pin only speeds up lock time in a striker fired design, or an inertial firing pin design.
An additional 0.015" would give you a firing pin protrusion of 0.051" or a recipe for pierced primers.
And, no, the original M16 did not have a titanium firing pin.
BTW Grade 6 titanium is not all that special . . .
Five_Point_Five_Six
04-21-22, 21:33
This one is going just how I thought it would.
I hope you kept your stock parts.
On a working carbine, the only thing I add is a detachable WML.
Ok
It’s a great combo setup SSA-E trigger and Titanium Firing pin. Try it !
https://www.firingpins.com/ar-15-titanium-firing-pin-wolf-and-russia
SSA-E is my a standard trigger so I may just try it on one rifle to see if I notice a difference.
SSA-E is my a standard trigger so I may just try it on one rifle to see if I notice a difference.
Good choice on trigger !
Remember don’t dry fire a SSA-E it’s a full force hammer spring !
It could damage your lower.
Good choice on trigger !
Remember don’t dry fire a SSA-E it’s a full force hammer spring !
It could damage your lower.
Only if you dry fire with the complete upper not attached to the lower.
The hammer is stopped by the firing pin before it can contact the lower receiver normally.
Dry firing damaging the lower receiver is a potential problem with ANY hammer spring if done with the upper receiver pivoted up or not attached to lower, hence there are plastic blockers that sit in the magwell to
take the hammer hit when testing FCG with an open carbine.
Mark
Only if you dry fire with the complete upper not attached to the lower.
The hammer is stopped by the firing pin before it can contact the lower receiver normally.
Dry firing damaging the lower receiver is a potential problem with ANY hammer spring if done with the upper receiver pivoted up or not attached to lower, hence there are plastic blockers that sit in the magwell to
take the hammer hit when testing FCG with an open carbine.
Mark
Actually, if you look closely at a lower with the hammer down, the hammer cannot contact the aluminum receiver. It is stopped by the bolt catch.
Dropping the hammer on a lower without the upper with BCG can damage the bolt catch pin, the pin holes and the forward face of the bolt catch slot.
Not arguing w Lysander who probably forgot more about the AR system than I ever learned, but since the bolt catch pin holes and bolt catch slot are part of the lower receiver....
Mark
Not saying you aren't going to damage the lower, just pointing out what gets damaged
Leaveammoforme
04-22-22, 22:45
This one is going just how I thought it would.
I hope you kept your stock parts.
shut your little whore mouth
Hammer_Man
04-23-22, 09:21
This thread cracks me up:laugh:
1_click_off
04-23-22, 12:07
Did you change your grip screw? If so, did you re-use the washer or go aftermarket on that as well?
Grip screw washer
Yes I Reused the washer !
if they make a better one sure will !
Thanks
I just want to know which lube the OP chose.
Andy
I just want to know which lube the OP chose.
Andy
That will start a three month debate.
I just want to know which lube the OP chose.
Andy
Hmmmm....Rem Oil?
I’ll do $125.
Regarding the muzzle device, I used and liked the Warcomp, only changing in preparation for a mixed-caliber suppressor purchase.
With that said, if you plan to suppress, note that Pew Science has found the Warcomp to be detrimental for sound suppression. Just as info. The flash hider (if unsuppressed) or brake (if suppressed) may be better options for you.
I will do $150 and add in some C Products mags
That will start a three month debate.
It might take away from the Ukrainian threads..
Send me a SureFire Socom 5.56 muzzle brake and it’s a deal !
SureFire’s Pro comp
It might take away from the Ukrainian threads..
Thanks to PUTIN the price of whatever lube he says is best is definitely going up.
GET IT NOW...
Go juice
I prefer the grease.... go juice is OK, but I find myself using Slip EWL 2000
bamashooter
04-24-22, 07:27
This thread cracks me up:laugh:
I highly recommend Nu-Finish on those parts exposed to the sun.:rolleyes:
Thanks to PUTIN the price of whatever lube he says is best is definitely going up.
GET IT NOW...
It was going up before Putin !
On my Super 42 spring Red Tacky grease
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