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a1madrid
09-05-22, 11:36
I keep seeing conflicting answers online about which anti seize to use for the threads on the upper receiver on an AR-15 where you tighten the barrel nut down. What is the best anti seize to be using on these? I have heard not to put copper on aluminum and some of these compounds are copper based. I also see silver, nickel, and other various stuff that people are recommending. Which is best? I am using a 10.3 Ballistic Advantage Barrel made from 4150 chrome moly vanadium steel with a QPQ finish and it also has a nickel boron coated barrel extension. Thank you.


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wigbones
09-05-22, 12:10
I've always used aeroshell grease without any issues.

m1a_scoutguy
09-05-22, 12:27
Two will last a lifetime for the normal guy! I'm sure there are other places to buy it also.
https://www.amazon.com/AEROSHELL-33MS-Synthetic-MIL-SPEC-Barrel/dp/B01M5J6J0A/ref=sr_1_1?crid=33AFCVFG65Z4U&keywords=AEROSHELL+64+%2F+33MS+Moly+Synthetic+MIL-SPEC+Barrel+Nut+Thread+Grease%2C+2+oz+Jar&qid=1662398636&s=industrial&sprefix=aeroshell+64+%2F+33ms+moly+synthetic+mil-spec+barrel+nut+thread+grease%2C+2+oz+jar%2Cindustrial%2C88&sr=1-1

Waylander
09-05-22, 13:30
Never mind

prepare
09-05-22, 13:42
The AeroShell 64 /33MS is what the TDP calls for

ndmiller
09-05-22, 15:59
Bought my tube of aeroshell almost a decade ago and it's still 99% full. I use a pinhead amount on suppressor threads as well along with anything else that gets gritty and squeaks over time (garage door wheels, door hinge pins, etc..). Also used on my BMW GS splines (call for moly grease).

a1madrid
09-05-22, 16:11
The AeroShell 64 /33MS is what the TDP calls for

What does TDP stand for? I kept seeing Aeroshell online when researching what to use. Where can I find it at?


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titsonritz
09-05-22, 16:43
What does TDP stand for? I kept seeing Aeroshell online when researching what to use. Where can I find it at?


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Technical Data Package

the AR-15 Junkie
09-05-22, 16:53
Why not use what Colt uses at the Hartford factory? Molykote G-n

Amazon has it.

Hammer_Man
09-05-22, 22:49
You can buy Aero Shell grease online, just do a quick Google search. I found a tube at an online airframe repair supplier. I don’t think I’ll ever use it up in my lifetime.

okie
09-06-22, 01:59
Aeroshell 33MS. Graphite is the one you want to avoid. 100% copper is okay and some manufacturers prefer it over the Aeroshell for some reason, but it theoretically changes the amount of clamping force from the specified torque using milspec components. Whether it's enough to matter or not I don't know. If you were at the extreme low end, maybe. I would just use the Aeroshell, though, especially since you can buy it in little five dollar doses, whereas a jar of 100% copper will set you back about thirty bucks. Well, any of them will set you back about that much, and a tiny little dab will do you. So again, just buy the little tub of Aeroshell and be done with it. And not have 29 dollars worth of unused grease sitting in your garage for decades that your kids will throw away when you die.

davidjinks
09-06-22, 10:27
I've always used aeroshell grease without any issues.

Aeroshell 33MS

a1madrid
09-06-22, 10:32
I ordered some Aeroshell 64/33MS from a company called Umbrella Corporation. How much needs to be applied to the threads on the upper receiver? And should I place some inside the upper where the barrel extension goes into?


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titsonritz
09-06-22, 11:06
Two will last a lifetime for the normal guy! I'm sure there are other places to buy it also.
https://www.amazon.com/AEROSHELL-33MS-Synthetic-MIL-SPEC-Barrel/dp/B01M5J6J0A/ref=sr_1_1?crid=33AFCVFG65Z4U&keywords=AEROSHELL+64+%2F+33MS+Moly+Synthetic+MIL-SPEC+Barrel+Nut+Thread+Grease%2C+2+oz+Jar&qid=1662398636&s=industrial&sprefix=aeroshell+64+%2F+33ms+moly+synthetic+mil-spec+barrel+nut+thread+grease%2C+2+oz+jar%2Cindustrial%2C88&sr=1-1

I've been using one of these little tubs for a about six years now.

Iraqgunz used Loctite C5-A.

markm
09-06-22, 11:20
What does TDP stand for? I kept seeing Aeroshell online when researching what to use. Where can I find it at?

There could be an M4c member near you with some. As stated, most of us have 99% full tubes on our benches.

Hammer_Man
09-06-22, 14:52
I ordered some Aeroshell 64/33MS from a company called Umbrella Corporation. How much needs to be applied to the threads on the upper receiver? And should I place some inside the upper where the barrel extension goes into?


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First make sure the threads on the upper, and barrel nut are clean. Apply an even coat to both the barrel nut threads, and the receiver threads. I also apply an even coating on the barrel extension before I slide it into the upper. After torquing the barrel nut, wipe off the excess grease with a clean lint free rag.

17K
09-06-22, 20:16
I use Mystic JT-6HT

Lots of mil uppers out there put together with red general chassis grease.

556Cliff
09-07-22, 09:20
I ordered some Aeroshell 64/33MS from a company called Umbrella Corporation. How much needs to be applied to the threads on the upper receiver? And should I place some inside the upper where the barrel extension goes into?


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There are only 2 places where the lube absolutely needs to be and that's on the threads of the upper receiver and on the forward/FSB facing side of the barrel extension flange (the side opposite of the indexing pin).

I'm not sure why covering the entire surface of the barrel extension before sliding it into the upper became a thing, but it's completely unnecessary.

And the "only a small dab will do ya" will not give best results... Apply liberally, it's really the only liberal thing I can recommend doing.

I prefer the lube Colt uses (MOLYKOTE G-N Metal Assembly Paste) over the AeroShell 64/33MS, but I actually use T.S. Moly's TS-70 moly paste for barrel nuts.

markm
09-07-22, 09:42
There are only 2 places where the lube absolutely needs to be and that's on the threads of the upper receiver and on the forward/FSB facing side of the barrel extension flange (the side opposite of the indexing pin).

I'm not sure why covering the entire surface of the barrel extension before sliding it into the upper became a thing, but it's completely unnecessary.

For most builds, just the threads are necessary for torque value in my opinion. I say this because galvanic corrosion is probably not very common on civilian owned ARs. I have put some on the outside of the barrel extension on tight fits so I can get it apart if I even have to without boogering up the gun.

556Cliff
09-07-22, 11:09
For most builds, just the threads are necessary for torque value in my opinion. I say this because galvanic corrosion is probably not very common on civilian owned ARs. I have put some on the outside of the barrel extension on tight fits so I can get it apart if I even have to without boogering up the gun.

It was many years ago that I noticed guys smearing moly grease all over the barrel extension, this was being shown in YouTube videos showing off the process of barrel installation. For the most part it seemed like the guys in the videos were doing this for the first time and really had no idea where to put the grease so they just put it everywhere. I really think it took off from there.

I typically avoid thermal fit uppers, but the A2 upper I just installed a barrel on had that as a feature. If I ever have to take it apart and run into an issue because I didn't smear grease all over the barrel extension I will report my experience with it. ;)

markm
09-07-22, 11:15
It was many years ago that I noticed guys smearing moly grease all over the barrel extension, this was being shown in YouTube videos showing off the process of barrel installation. For the most part it seemed like the guys in the videos were doing this for the first time and really had no idea where to put the grease so they just put it everywhere. I really think it took off from there.

Could be. I mean.. theoretically it's still an aluminum to steel contact point, but the threads are probably the much higher risk of corrosion. I used it on barrels where I actually had to mallet the thing into the receiver.

556Cliff
09-07-22, 11:24
Could be. I mean.. theoretically it's still an aluminum to steel contact point, but the threads are probably the much higher risk of corrosion. I used it on barrels where I actually had to mallet the thing into the receiver.

Ouch! Did you heat up the upper, or was it even a fight after doing that?

I never had one that tight.

Stopsign32v
09-07-22, 11:28
I used it on barrels where I actually had to mallet the thing into the receiver.

Would probably be better to put it in the freezer overnight vs beating it in.

Hammer_Man
09-07-22, 11:39
Thermal fit uppers just require a bit of heat around the threads, and the barrel usually slips right in. Regardless, it’s not hurting anything to apply a layer of grease to the barrel extension. The worst that could happen is that you’ll have to wipe things clean when you’re done.

556Cliff
09-07-22, 12:39
Thermal fit uppers just require a bit of heat around the threads, and the barrel usually slips right in. Regardless, it’s not hurting anything to apply a layer of grease to the barrel extension. The worst that could happen is that you’ll have to wipe things clean when you’re done.

If I were to do it, I'd apply the grease in the extension area of the receiver instead of the barrel extension itself just to avoid any grease getting between the face of the upper receiver and the rear facing side of the barrel extension flange. I'd want that area as dry as possible so the surfaces are less likely to side under torque from the barrel nut.

markm
09-07-22, 12:43
Would probably be better to put it in the freezer overnight vs beating it in.

It wasn't THAT tight. It's hard to describe things exactly on the forum sometimes. Not a Paul Bunion pounding, but tight enough where you couldn't free hand it into place. Even had I heated the receiver, I'd still have a real thing layer of Aeroshell to make sure it could come apart later.

And the Aeroshell helps steady the fitment on loose uppers too.. kinda keeps is somewhat in position while you take up the slack.

Stopsign32v
09-07-22, 15:10
It wasn't THAT tight. It's hard to describe things exactly on the forum sometimes. Not a Paul Bunion pounding, but tight enough where you couldn't free hand it into place. Even had I heated the receiver, I'd still have a real thing layer of Aeroshell to make sure it could come apart later.

And the Aeroshell helps steady the fitment on loose uppers too.. kinda keeps is somewhat in position while you take up the slack.

Ah so you basically just tapped it in. Yea I bet that's a good shooting setup then.

markm
09-07-22, 16:33
Ah so you basically just tapped it in. Yea I bet that's a good shooting setup then.

I can't remember who owned the gun or which rifle it may have been. But yeah.. it struck me that is would make for a solid platform.

Hart
09-07-22, 16:44
Just put the upper receiver in the oven at 200-225 degrees for 10 minutes and the barrel will drop right in...

markm
09-07-22, 17:07
Just put the upper receiver in the oven at 200-225 degrees for 10 minutes and the barrel will drop right in...

It's Arizona... if I want to heat up a part, just set it in the sun.

Hammer_Man
09-07-22, 17:34
Just put the upper receiver in the oven at 200-225 degrees for 10 minutes and the barrel will drop right in...

I use a heat gun, propane torch, or stove top (gas burning). All three methods have met with success.

Stopsign32v
09-07-22, 18:03
I use green loctite on the barrel extension.

titsonritz
09-07-22, 21:38
I use green loctite on the barrel extension.

Why would you do that?

OutofBatt3ry
09-07-22, 23:02
I was told to use Aeroshell but I couldn't find it in stock anywhere and I was itching to get my first DIY upper to get together. This was like 5 years ago.

Went to the auto parts store and bought the tiny tube of silver anti seize, the kind you'd use on spark plugs or automotive high-torque fastener. That was many builds ago. The tube is still nearly full. I assume I'll never kill it. Gets the job done, stops galling, etc.

https://pics.me.me/open-abo-and-133k-permalev-anti-seize-lubricant-llibricante-anthsekze-l-17961415.png

HKGuns
09-08-22, 06:42
I was told to use Aeroshell but I couldn't find it in stock anywhere and I was itching to get my first DIY upper to get together. This was like 5 years ago.

Went to the auto parts store and bought the tiny tube of silver anti seize, the kind you'd use on spark plugs or automotive high-torque fastener. That was many builds ago. The tube is still nearly full. I assume I'll never kill it. Gets the job done, stops galling, etc.

https://pics.me.me/open-abo-and-133k-permalev-anti-seize-lubricant-llibricante-anthsekze-l-17961415.png

It’s readily available on Amazon.

Stopsign32v
09-08-22, 06:42
Why would you do that?

Its for bedding the barrel

davidjinks
09-08-22, 09:01
I was told to use Aeroshell but I couldn't find it in stock anywhere and I was itching to get my first DIY upper to get together. This was like 5 years ago.

Went to the auto parts store and bought the tiny tube of silver anti seize, the kind you'd use on spark plugs or automotive high-torque fastener. That was many builds ago. The tube is still nearly full. I assume I'll never kill it. Gets the job done, stops galling, etc.

https://pics.me.me/open-abo-and-133k-permalev-anti-seize-lubricant-llibricante-anthsekze-l-17961415.png

https://www.amazon.com/AEROSHELL-33MS-Synthetic-MIL-SPEC-Barrel/dp/B01M5J6J0A

If you type in aeroeshell 33MS in to google, you will find it without issue. I usually order it from an aircraft company and have it to my house within 2 days.

Curlew
09-08-22, 09:46
I
Went to the auto parts store and bought the tiny tube of silver anti seize, the kind you'd use on spark plugs or automotive high-torque fastener.The anti-seize shown in the picture contains graphite, and the conventional wisdom says to avoid that in this application.

If you need to pick something from an auto parts store, any moly grease would probably be a safer choice. The more MoS2 the better.

OutofBatt3ry
09-10-22, 15:07
The anti-seize shown in the picture contains graphite, and the conventional wisdom says to avoid that in this application.

If you need to pick something from an auto parts store, any moly grease would probably be a safer choice. The more MoS2 the better.

I don't think I'm going to start popping MDs and barrel nuts but I did order some from Amazon, so thanks for the links = )

I guess it's my funeral :suicide:

rifleman8
09-12-22, 15:32
What does genuine Aeroshell 64 / 33ms look / smell like ? - just asking for a friend.....

HKGuns
09-12-22, 15:41
What does genuine Aeroshell 64 / 33ms look / smell like ? - just asking for a friend.....

http://hkguns.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-10/p443049311-5.jpg

Looks like grease and smells pretty much, well, like grease as well.

rifleman8
09-12-22, 18:50
Thanks much for the reply and photo - in a real Shell tube, no less.

HKGuns
09-12-22, 19:08
Thanks much for the reply and photo - in a real Shell tube, no less.

Most welcome. I’m sure your friend wasn’t born all knowing regarding grease.