Glock Performance Trigger

[1168]

I’m surprised I haven’t seen this here yet:

Glock is now selling an upgraded trigger, the Glock Performance Trigger. Looks like its only available for 9mm Gen 5, but it converts the gun to single-action, 3.5 lbs with a flat face, for a C-Note.

Short Video: https://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2023/01/16/shot-2023-glock-making-match-trigger-glock-performance-trigger/

Read:
https://www.ammunitiondepot.com/blog/2023-shot-show-product-2023-glock-performance-trigger

Long Video Pt 1:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FhjuiDjrYrQ

Long Video Pt 2:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6amAxjJb4sI

Short-ish Video on Gen 1-4:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2P452uZ17KE

[ssc]

There are quite a few vids and discussions on other forums. Johnny Glock has a lot of information. My thought is that the jury is still out. I’ll see how these things hold up over the long run before spending the money.

Cheers, Steve

[gunnerblue]

Learned about this the other day. It sounds like the new trigger will operate more akin to the VP9 in firing. Looking forward to more reviews as I would be interested in upgrading.

[LowSpeed_HighDrag]

A few guys I trust say it is "meh".

[yoni]

I have a gen 3 Glock 35 with a 3 pound trigger, that I was able to put together. It has all stock safety features in place, and it goes bang every time. So it can be done. It is funny I put the Glock store 3 pound connector in my 3 gen Glock 32 and the best I could get out of it was 4 pound trigger which I am fine with.

I don't see the need to try anything new.

[17K]

A few guys I trust say it is "meh".

I’ve been doing a lot of reading on them and it seems like they have the pretravel pull weight the same as the trigger safety pull weight and people are having to get their finger perfectly on the trigger, and some are filing a little bit off the trigger safety to get them to reliably pull.

I guarantee you we’re looking at V1.0 of who even know how many until they get it right.

[Biggy]

IMHO, it is an improved Timney type Glock trigger and is the best pe-tensioned / cocked Glock trigger currently available.
The one downside it has for myself and many people, especially those that carry AIWB vs the standard Glock trigger is, it is not compatible with a Glock SCD ( striker control device), which means there can be a greater *potential* for an accidental discharge upon re-holstering the pistol.

Also, while the new OEM Performance trigger feels really good compared to the **standard Glock trigger, when you compare the new OEM performance trigger to a *really good * worked on Glock trigger using factory OEM parts, in my experience using both triggers side by side, there is little to no meaningful on target accuracy or on target split times improvement using this new trigger.

I chose to pass on this trigger because I like the option to be able to use the Glock SCD (striker control device) to hopefully not end up shooting myself like the man in the link below, although he did it on the draw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=747_rz-qE4w

[mizer67]

I bought one to T&E. It's definitely a change from a typical Glock trigger, no matter the aftermarket components. The springiness of cocking the striker while pulling the factory trigger is gone.

There's some light pre-travel where the only thing you feel is the firing pin block, then a short, slight rolling break with little to no overtravel. It's light, but I haven't tested it. I'd say 3.5 lbs is about right by feel. The reset is different and a bit weaker, but nothing earth shattering. Not sure I'd carry this honestly.

I can confirm on mine that trigger finger placement matters. Get your finger down near the bottom and no issue, towards the top you're likely to get some frame contact with the trigger safety.

We'll see how it runs. It's only a C note, so worth trying. I'm not sold on the flat face trigger. I know some hate them but I'd stick with the normal trigger face if given the option, but I have adapted to it and see no need for a change.

I don't expect any meaningful changes to the results on target, but I put this in one of my G34's I do a lot of work with at 25 yards and if there's a difference, it'll show up there.

[silvery37]

I got one in and put it in a gen 5 G19. I like it a lot.

It has a tiny bit of travel and then you can feel it contact the firing pin safety. This portion of the travel is the take up or pre travel and measured around 2 pounds. After this the trigger hits a wall. At the wall there is what I would describe as a rolling break. Trigger breaks right around 3.5lbs total. I prefer for the rolling break for slow fire but I know other people like more of a crisp break which I read is possible by swapping out the connector.

Based on the design I wouldn’t have any issues carrying it and plan to do so. This is with the caveat that regardless of all the Glock safeties it is a 3.5 lb trigger.

[SteveL]

I got one in and put it in a gen 5 G19. I like it a lot.

It has a tiny bit of travel and then you can feel it contact the firing pin safety. This portion of the travel is the take up or pre travel and measured around 2 pounds. After this the trigger hits a wall. At the wall there is what I would describe as a rolling break. Trigger breaks right around 3.5lbs total. I prefer for the rolling break for slow fire but I know other people like more of a crisp break which I read is possible by swapping out the connector.

Based on the design I wouldn’t have any issues carrying it and plan to do so. This is with the caveat that regardless of all the Glock safeties it is a 3.5 lb trigger.

Personally I hate the rolling break in a Glock trigger, but from what I've read it's impossible to eliminate it and still maintain a good level of safety against accidental discharges from drops, etc. That's why all the aftermarket triggers out there still have the rolling break.

[jsbhike]

Personally I hate the rolling break in a Glock trigger, but from what I've read it's impossible to eliminate it and still maintain a good level of safety against accidental discharges from drops, etc. That's why all the aftermarket triggers out there still have the rolling break.

Is it eliminating the firing pin safety?

[SteveL]

Is it eliminating the firing pin safety?

I don't think so.

[jsbhike]

I don't think so.

I sure could be missing something, but unless the firing pin safety is getting bypassed it shouldn't be able to fire from being dropped.

Obviously having the trigger fail to retain the striker isn't ideal, but the firing pin safety shouldn't allow anything to happen.

[silvery37]

It does not eliminate the firing pin safety. There’s also a hook that should prevent the sear from releasing the striker until the trigger begins to move to the rear. Aka the striker should not be able to be released from dropping the pistol.


I qualified these statements with “should” because if you look at the design of the trigger it’s pretty obvious how it’s made to stop the sear from moving down. I’ve also read about someone who was able to physically force the sear down and get it to release. These aren’t fitted parts and there is some play in the system. My guess is that you could force the sear down with a punch or something similar by bending or flexing the components. But this force is not something that could ever be replicated by dropping or hitting the pistol.

[SteveL]

I sure could be missing something, but unless the firing pin safety is getting bypassed it shouldn't be able to fire from being dropped.

Obviously having the trigger fail to retain the striker isn't ideal, but the firing pin safety shouldn't allow anything to happen.


It does not eliminate the firing pin safety. There’s also a hook that should prevent the sear from releasing the striker until the trigger begins to move to the rear. Aka the striker should not be able to be released from dropping the pistol.


I qualified these statements with “should” because if you look at the design of the trigger it’s pretty obvious how it’s made to stop the sear from moving down. I’ve also read about someone who was able to physically force the sear down and get it to release. These aren’t fitted parts and there is some play in the system. My guess is that you could force the sear down with a punch or something similar by bending or flexing the components. But this force is not something that could ever be replicated by dropping or hitting the pistol.

Sorry I'm trying to recall something I read quite a while back. I could be remembering it wrong. The thing that stuck out at me the most was that a Glock trigger would always have a rolling break vs. a wall due to the geometry of the trigger bar and the parts it interfaces with, and something about a reduction in safety if the geometry was modified in a way that would produce a wall type break. Again I could be completely wrong.

[jsbhike]

It does not eliminate the firing pin safety. There’s also a hook that should prevent the sear from releasing the striker until the trigger begins to move to the rear. Aka the striker should not be able to be released from dropping the pistol.


I qualified these statements with “should” because if you look at the design of the trigger it’s pretty obvious how it’s made to stop the sear from moving down. I’ve also read about someone who was able to physically force the sear down and get it to release. These aren’t fitted parts and there is some play in the system. My guess is that you could force the sear down with a punch or something similar by bending or flexing the components. But this force is not something that could ever be replicated by dropping or hitting the pistol.

Should is key.

I do recall hearing about occasional early Glocks firing during loading, but that seems to have been worked out 30+ years ago.

[The Dumb Gun Collector]

I installed one of these in My G19 and took it out today. The install was absurdly easy. Punch out pins, fish out ambi lever and block, drop in new unit, put in ambi levers and block, plus pins...done. Five minutes max. Probably 3 minutes if you have a second gun to swap one into.

It improved the weight of the trigger. It is almost exactly 4 lbs now. I would say it is the general VP9/PPQ class now. I shot 150 rounds of ball FMJ and it ran perfectly.

I paid $60 from Botach and it definitely seems worth the price (even at 99). The install is SO easy and the peace of mind of having factory parts is nice.

[BoyScout4Life]

I guess it's time I break down and install this into my Gen.4 G17. They now come with the new Gen.5 slide cover so it allows them on Gen. 4 9mm.'s.

[LowSpeed_HighDrag]

I had major issues with mine and have thrown in in the parts drawer. It seized after 300-400 rounds, and again at 500-600 rounds. I know of multiple people who have had major issues with them, including Ben Stoeger.

[ViniVidivici]

Yeah they don't seem like they're worth putting into any serious "working gun".

[P2Vaircrewman]

I installed the Performance trigger in my Gen G19, this was the latest version that came with a Gen 5 backplate for use in Gen 4 guns.
Trigger felt good on dry fire but on first live fire the slide would lock back every shot. Investigation revealed that the trigger shoe was pushing up the slide lock. The relief cut on the left side of the shoe was at a different angle than on the stock Gen 4 trigger shoe. It wasn't low enough and was pushing up the slide lock.
I solved the problem by replacing the Glock shoe with an Overwatch Precision Polydat shoe that I had on the stock trigger bar.

[1168]

A few guys I trust say it is "meh".
I’ve been using one a while now, and that’s not too far off. It is an “improvement”, but a noticeable though incremental one. It’s not quite as good as a Timney, which is itself not as good as a hammer gun, or a P99. None are going to turn a polyamorous “gun guy” into a skilled monogamous shooter overnight, anymore than a new brand of golf balls will make me a better golfer than the ones I find in the woodline. It is lighter, and crisper.

The improvement is more noticeable in my 5th gen with extra power striker spring than it is in an otherwise stock one. For a general purpose shooting gun, its worth it if you don’t have something better you need to do with $100, like putting it toward another case of ammo. For a work gun, I think the stock trigger is fine.

[Texaspoff]

I have also been testing out some different trigger setups. The original Glock performance trigger was a no go, trigger safety tab catching, having to change the connector to get a decent wall and the fat trigger shoe. When the version 2 was released, I figured why not. Everything was an improvement over the original, except the trigger shoe. I have a Ranger Proof shoe on it's way so I can see if that improves things a bit.

In the meantime, my Timney Alpha arrived. It is a brand new current production version. Honestly I was expecting to have to send it back from all the negative things I had read. It installed with zero issues and there is more than enough clearance between the striker and trigger bar, so no light strikes. I'm also using a factory Glock + connector, and with this setup, I am getting a solid wall, clean no creep break, with consistent pull of 4.76, which I was looking for weight wise in a carry trigger. The trigger shoe also has the perfect reach for me, which was the biggest issue with the GPT fat shoe. So far I am very impressed with the Timney in this configuration. I'm going to run the hell out of it and see how it holds up. I know there is more maintenance involved in the Timney as well as the GPT and I'm fine with that especially for the performance I gain with them.

If I am going to be in a situation where I can't easily maintain the system, I'll throw the factory trigger back in and go. Otherwise I'm firmly in the Timney camp right now.


https://i.imgur.com/hjB8G5ph.jpg





TXPO