View Full Version : Lets Talk about my "go To" carbine
As the title says lets talk about my carbine. I seriously want your input and if I ask any stupid sounding questions it isnt' because I doubt you but because I just want to know the reason behind something.
Bushmaster XM15 VCarbine
Chrome Lines 1/9 16 Inch M4 light profile barrel
Eotech 553
Flip Rear site. The current one is CHEAP. I have an ARMS 40 on Order
CAA Collapsible stock. I would not trust most CAA stuff but I have hear that their stocks are pretty good.
Ergo Grip
Magpul Enhanced Winter Trigger Guard
YHM Lite Free Float Quad Raid
YHM Vortex Flash hider
Magpul XTM Rail Panels
Gas Key has been re-staked since it seemed a bit weak from the factory
It does have M4 Cuts on the Barrel Extension but not int he reciever. I am considering relieving the receiver to extend the cuts. But haven't decided if I am that brave yet.
I plan on staking the receiver extension once I have the one with a side sling adapter. I have never liked these being staked but I know it is recommended.
I know it isn't a Colt or LMT, I would have loved to have gotten an LMT and probably should have. But Right now, this is what I have to work with. I have read Grants Thread and tried to follow the advice as best I could.
At this point I want to make sure I have
A: Done everything I should have
B: Not done something I should not have.
Now a few things to keep in mind. I am not in the Armed forces or a PMC. I am not a Police officer.
That being said, I want to be ready when the Zombie plague hits LOL.
Advice? Criticism? Inappropriate jokes? I am open to it all right now.
http://homepage.mac.com/kwelz/.Pictures/bm1.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/kwelz/.Pictures/bm2.jpg
P.S. Please forgive the little attention Whore in the first Photo. He got it the way every time.
decodeddiesel
12-29-08, 17:15
First question, do you have any sort of training on how to use that weapon?
Second question, how many rounds do you have through it? Any malfunctions?
Third, how many high quality magazines do you have?
Fourth question, where is your white light and sling? Those are imperative on a "go to" carbine. If you want the harsh truth I would sell that YMH rail (just not a fan), get some M4 hand guards, and use the money to buy a Surefire (6P, G2, etc.) with a good mount (MI FSB mount and the Vltor scout maybe?) and a good sling like a BFG Vickers or the like.
I have not had positive experiences with EOTechs. I have seen them fail in various ways at very bad times. Aside from always running out of battery, "popping batteries" and corroding batteries seems to be the order of the day with those things. Let me tell you there's nothing like halting your patrol and establishing 360 security so one of your soldiers bend over in the middle of a street in Baghdad to pick up his EOTech that was "torqued" and loctited. Albeit not the same attachment method as your there but still, I lost a lot of faith in that optic that day. My advise? Sell it and get an Aimpoint. Also you're right on about ditching that rear sight, get a LaRue, LMT, Troy, or ARMS.
Anything made by CAA makes me retch a little. Get a regular old M4 stock (ETA: forgot that's a commercial receiver extension, just get a Commercial MOE) or a Magpul MOE.
You're off to a good start with re-staking the gas key. Did you properly torque the gas key bolts before you re-staked? You're probably just better off getting an LMT or BCM carrier group...hell for that matter a complete upper. I would strongly suggest getting the chamber reamed if you keep the Bushmaster upper. Iraqgunz can attest to out of spec Bushmaster 5.56 chambers.
You mentioned you're going to stake the castle nut. Good, just be sure you do it right.
I would ditch the YMH hider and just get an A2, it will save you an inch or so on the OAL.
Simple constructive statement---not criticism. Nice rifle! Do you have what many would call the appropriate amount of mags for it (7-10 30rd) and what about bumps in the night? I'd quickly mount at least a 65 lumen LED lamp to it and preferably anything up to 150lum. The 1:9 twist bbl. is going to effectively stabilize rounds up to 64gr from what I've read, although I don't think it'll hurt to stuff 20-30rd in a mag of Hornady TAP 75gr .223 in it.
Your choice to get a free float rail on it is very good. No barrel pressure means more accuracy and less chance of a SNAFUBAR event on your barrel.
Your Ergo pistol grip will also hold thing a couple batteries if you decide to add a lamp your SHTF Zombie destroyer. Given the opportunity, I'm adding a Sig Sauer Stoplite---vert grip/laser/strobe/300lumen light to my AR soon. I can comfortably do that because I've got my LMT has the SOPMOD stock on it. 6 batteries in the stock and 2 in the grip. the Sig uses 4 batteries and has 8 hours of light at 300 lumens. 8 hours at the grip and 16 in backup. kinda expensive but again it's 300 lumens ;)
I think you've got a good weapon. I'm sure others will chime in too with more knowledge than I have.
Wow. Lots of stuff here. I will answer in Line as I can.
First question, do you have any sort of training on how to use that weapon? How many rounds do you have through it? Any malfunctions?
No official training, as I said I am not LE or Mil. just ran a lot of courses with the local PD where I have a lot of friends. I can shoot better than most on the move and in many situations but I won't lie and say I have any sort of tactical training to compare with many people here.
Weapon was fired seriously for the first time today. Put 750-800 rounds though it before I had to call it a day. No FTF or FTEs.
How many high quality magazines do you have?
About 40 Good USGI 30 Round Mags. About a Dozen 20 Round USGI Colt mags and a half Dozen or so Thermolds that I use at the range but not for anything serious.
(this isn't my only AR but it is going to be the one that is as near perfect as I can get.)
I also have 3K Rounds of XM193 and 2K of M855 on hand that isn't for practice.
Second question, where is your white light and sling? Those are imperative on a "go to" carbine.
Sorry Light is a 6P. Still looking for a good mount and Remote switch. I will probably go with one of the mounts you suggested further down. I have also considered a TRL-1 but am not sure if that is a good choice or no.
If you want the harsh truth I would sell that YMH rail (just not a fan), get some M4 hand guards, and use the money to buy a Surefire (6P, G2, etc.) with a good mount (MI FSB mount and the Vltor scout maybe?) and a good sling like a BFG Vickers or the like.
I just replaced the handguards with this hehe. I have always prefered a true Free Float tube to any other option. This things weighs less or the same as the standard M4 Guards + some sort of light mount. Is there something I should be worried about with the rail?
I have not had positive experiences with EOTechs. I have seen them fail in various ways at very bad times. Aside from always running out of battery, "popping batteries" and corroding batteries seems to be the order of the day with those things. Let me tell you there's nothing like halting your patrol and establishing 360 security so one of your soldiers bend over in the middle of a street in Baghdad to pick up his EOTech that was "torqued" and loctited. Albeit not the same attachment method as your there but still, I lost a lot of faith in that optic that day. My advise? Sell it and get an Aimpoint. Also you're right on about ditching that rear sight, get a LaRue, LMT, Troy, or ARMS.
TO each thier own on the EoTech. I did a good bit of research and shot a couple of friends guns with the different sites before I settled on the EoTech.
And yeah like I said. Arms #40 on order :)
Anything made by CAA makes me retch a little. Get a regular old M4 stock or a Magpul MOE.
I know. CAA SUCKS. But tha damn thing seems solid =\ I have a VLTOR I could switch out as well. I prefer either of these to the normal M4 though. Just a personal thing.
You're off to a good start with re-staking the gas key. Did you properly torque the gas key bolts before you re-staked? You're probably just better off getting an LMT or BCM carrier group...hell for that matter a complete upper. I would strongly suggest getting the chamber reamed if you keep the Bushmaster upper. Iraqgunz can attest to out of spec Bushmaster 5.56 chambers.
I should have been more clear on part of this. I considered checking the Torque on the bolts part of re-staking them. One was a bit under so I fixed it before I gave them a whack :)
I had not thought to grab a Chamber reamer. Will do that ASAP
You mentioned you're going to stake the castle nut. Good, just be sure you do it right.
You got it. Will read up on it again before I do it.
I would ditch the YMH hider and just get an A2, it will save you an inch or so on the OAL.
Besides the slight OAL savings is there any problem with the Vortex? I kinda like the look...
Thank you for all your advice. I can't promise I will take it all but every bit I get helps me learn a bit more. I have been shooting ARs for years now but I am just now starting to get really serious about it.
decodeddiesel
12-29-08, 17:52
Cool beans, it sounds like you're pretty ahead of the game already on the training, ammo, and magazines. I can tell you the mags I had in Iraq were Okay industries with the green followers and I never had a problem. That being said the Magpul anti-tilt followers are definitely worth the money. Like wise maybe think about hitting up a formal training class? You might be surprised at what you learn from a true professional. A few other things I would suggest...
If you're going to keep that EOTech I would strongly suggest moving it back on your receiver. You've got it positioned right over the barrel nut which is about the worst possible spot for heat soak. Trust me it will fry if it gets hot, I have seen it happen more times than I would like to recall. That barrel nut is basically a heat sink/heat pipe for transferring heat away from the barrel and to the rails, you're going to want to keep that EOTech away from it.
I like free float rails, but not the YMH. For me having a critical weapon component (the gas tube) be the only anti-rotation device is just not acceptable. I really like the LaRue rails or the DD Omega. The quality is far better than the YMH and built in QD cup is really nice...
I have used tape switches and don't care for them. I would place the light in such a way that you can activate it with your thumb.
First question... it will save you an inch or so on the OAL.
Seriously, don't sugar coat it!!! Great post.
I would also recommend a class - I took my first last year and it was excellent. I learned a lot about shooting, new drills, and a good amount about the proper mindset. You may shoot better than some cops but I'd bet after a class you'd out shoot them all.
For the chamber issue - the reamers are pretty spendy - I would see if C4IGrant could look it over. He's got lots of experience correcting Bushmasters.
I would echo the thought on the DD Omega rail - easy to put on and will free float the barrel at a reasonable cost. Also have a nice place to mount a light - my favorite combo right now is a SureFire G2L in a Vltor Scout mount - just a little over $100 total with a dependable LED with about 80 lumens in a rock solid mount. And the rail will have a place for a QD sling - get a Vickers or VTAC sling. I would suggest the PR4 mount from TangoDown at the front of the receiver extension. I like the LMT rear sights but looks like you want to put it down when not in use. I'm not a huge fan of the EoTech either. The Aimpoint is bomb proof and my one EoTech is on the range toy so I don't have to depend on it except for fun...
Spooky
LOL thanks again for the help guys.
I spent half the day working on this rifle. I stripped it down to just about every individual component. I added the Quad Rail, etc. Although some of the parts had already been put on before, just not necessarily tightened down LOL. It is easy to get other people to do the work, my shop will do it for free. But I really enjoy working on my rifle myself and feel more comfortable with it in the long run.
Oh and I already moved the EoTech since what you said makes a lot of sense.
I very much want to go to a training course. Money and time are a big issue in that right now however. Till then I will just continue to run with the local guys. It is better than nothing.
Another vote for skipping the remote switch for a light. It complicates things, adds complexity and weight, and is just one more thing to worry about IMO. I've used various mounts, including a basic set of matte scope rings (Weaver???) to mount a 6P at 3 o'clock. All have worked fine.
If you re-staked the key, AND have an honest 800 rds through it in one day, I think you've taken some good steps to establishing peace of mind with the gun.
A good sling is worthwhile, but I *think* that was already mentioned.
I would start by getting rid of the black cat. :D
+1 on what decodeddiesel said about the EOTechs. They may be good for the guys back home or the PD's, but I have seen soe many bite the dust here that I sold mine before I went on R/R. Battery life sucks, battery packs/contacts and a few other things. If you were able to acquire that much ammo and mags my guess is that you probably could afford to make the other recommended fixes w/o much damage to the pocket book. I highly recommend that you get the chamber reamed. Getting a sling and a good light should definitely be high on the list right now. Target identification as well as a way to secure your weapon are important.
Parabellum9x19mm
12-30-08, 01:41
Given the opportunity, I'm adding a Sig Sauer Stoplite---vert grip/laser/strobe/300lumen light to my AR soon. I
do not buy this piece of crap
this is coming from a SIG fan
decodeddiesel
12-30-08, 10:09
do not buy this piece of crap
this is coming from a SIG fan
Agreed. I had a chance to try one of these out on a Sig 556 "SWAT" :rolleyes:. I just cannot recommend it.
kwelz - It looks like you're off to a good start and you've got some good info already in this thread but let me add my 2 cents:
#1 - Get a Vickers Combat Sling (http://blueforcegear.com/product.cfm?type=cat&cat_id=5&prod_id=79) for that carbine. Use either a Side Sling Adapter or a MI adapter that mounts to the rail.
#2 - Replace the bolt with a CMT, Bravo Company or FN around the 5000 round mark.
#3 - Head over to the training forum and find a basic carbine class that is close to you.
#4 - I'd order a standard VLTOR light mount and run your 6P in either the 9 or 3 o'clock position. Forget the tape switch.
#5 - Since you already have the YHM rail and EoTech just keep running them. Make sure you have spare batteries on hand. Personally I'd run a VLTOR buttstock or a MIAD grip and put some spares in either one of those so that you always have some on the carbine itself.
#6 - Shoot it :D
The Archangel
12-30-08, 10:37
Bushies may not be a top-tier manufacturer, but if you've had no FTF/FTE/DF issues after 800+ rounds in one day, I would say that weapon is fairly solid.
Don't worry about the lack of M4 cuts in your receiver if your weapon works as mentioned.
The EOTech is no Aimpoint, but for your needs, I think it will be fine as your go-to weapon will probably never see the sandbox, or multiple bad guys in an active shooter scenario. At least you didn't go with a Chicom Airsoft optic.
Though the stock is not part of the M4C Kool-Aid approved list, if it doesn't rattle and it works for you, then keep it and spend the money on other necessary parts like:
Vickers 2-Pt Sling or a decent 1-Pt Sling
White light
Get some PMAGS if you can find them in stock, otherwise, get some Magpul anti-tilt followers
Tak ethe current BUIS and sell it to an Airsofter or someone you don't like.
The Phantom FH is fine, it works better than the A2. If you happen to change out ANY muzzle device, make SURE that you reconfirm zero. When I changed out my Phantom FH for a FSC556, my POI changed 6" Left and 12" Up @ 100 Yards. :eek:
Take a carbine class.
You said you have mixed feedramps so this upper is probably not factory. Since your gun is not factory, I wouldn't feel bad about parting it out.
I would just get rid of the entire upper and start over with this:
A2 flash hider
M4 ramps on both the receiver and barrel
A better rail
A Colt or BCM bolt/carrier.
I'd get rid of the CAA stock.
Iraq Ninja
12-30-08, 11:10
EOTECHS...
Well, I am an aimpoint koolaid drinker, but...
Just today I was chatting to a friend of mine over here who knows a certain ODA team very well. I asked him what optics they used, thinking the answer was aimpoint. Well, it turns out that this group of Door Kickers ALL use EOTECHs. Their reasoning was that it worked better for CQB situations and that is all they deal with now. No aimpoints at all. Acogs were taken off and put away for long range situations.
My one and only EOTECH was my primary optic for my first four years here. I only recently switched to a nightforce 2.5x- 10x since my "situations" often happen at extended ranges. I have a micro aimpoint as my backup.
The gun is Factory. I actually walked into the warehouse with the guy and picked out the rifle from the BM selection. I just don't' think BM puts the buts int he receiver.
I am torn between the standard VLTOR light mount and the scout mount. I like both but can't find anyplace with them in stock so I have to make sure I get the one I want without getting to test it.
Don't worry guys, the rear site was just on there as a placeholder. As I said I have a good one on order. It was the only Cheap part on the gun. And yes it is a UTG, I picked it up fo0r about 15 bucks as something to play around with.
I am still torn on the stock. It seems rock solid, it has storage for 4 batteries which gives me an extra set for the Eotech and Light, and it is actually tighter on this gun than my VLTOR is. Honestly I am just not sure..
I have a Blackhawk single point sling, I just need to put a sling adapter on this one. I don't know what the opinion around here is on Blackhawk stuff so please let me know.
I think for my purposes I am going to stick with the EoTech. You all have given me a lot to think about and I may well change my mind, but for now it is what I have. I do have an "Aimpoint" It is a knockoff Chinese made one that I picked up. I would never see it as reliable enough for a real weapon and right now it is on my GSG5. I may mount it on the Rifle just to see how I like the different FoV, etc.
I don't think I am going to pick up any more Mags right now. About 15 or so of my mags already have Magpull followers. These are the ones I keep "Ready" With the rifle at all time.
And I will go ahead and order a replacement bolt to have on hand. Should I worry about the BCG or just the bolt?
Though the stock is not part of the M4C Kool-Aid approved list, if it doesn't rattle and it works for you, then keep it and spend the money on other necessary parts like:
I'm perplexed by this statement. :confused:
Can you tell me what stocks are on the M4C Kool-Aid approved list? Are you suggesting that just because the members here have a personal favorite that they automatically get lumped into the kool-aid category? Would they same be true for you and your favorite pieces of gear?
I highly recommend that we leave petty comments out of our posts. If you have had success with CAA (or Vltor, Magpul, etc) then post those experiences for all to learn from but making comments like that doesn't do the board a bit good.
decodeddiesel
12-30-08, 11:28
Blackhawk is bad ju-ju my friend. The plastic they use for the buckles is way sub-par and will break, I have found the edges fray, and the stitching is shoddy at best. Best to look at Troy, LaRue, Viking Tactical, or Blue Force Gear Vickers Combat Sling. I run the BFG Vickers 2 point on my M4 and love it.
Your BCG should be fine now that it is staked and torqued properly. As far as the bolt you're going to have a hard time finding one in stock right now. When you do make sure it's peened and MPI, so basically FN, Colt, LMT, or BCM.
Do you have an H buffer in there? You definitely going to want an H buffer and you may want to think about an H2 or even H3. You've mentioned you have a good amount of NATO pressure 5.56 ammo, and BM has been known to run a larger gas port size so users can run SAAMI spec .223 without issue. This is good for your average Wolf shooter but not so good for your average 5.56 shooter. This will result in your carbine being severely over gassed and will rapidly increase wear on the bolt and receiver pins/pin holes. I would get an H2 or even an H3 and see if your carbine will lock back on the last shot with your M193.
I like free float rails, but not the YMH. For me having a critical weapon component (the gas tube) be the only anti-rotation device is just not acceptable.
For the sake of sharing information:
His YHM and all new YHM now have anti rotational screws that lock the tube securely into the barrel nut, the gas tube has clearance on all sides now.
If you look just under the one panel you can see the screw.
YHM said somewhere that your complaint was their most received and this was the solution they came up with along with the locking ring...it's pretty solid. The barrel nut itself is a bit bigger, but it's also "meatier" too.
For the sake of sharing information:
His YHM and all new YHM now have anti rotational screws that lock the tube securely into the barrel nut, the gas tube has clearance on all sides now.
If you look just under the one panel you can see the screw.
YHM said somewhere that your complaint was their most received and this was the solution they came up with along with the locking ring...it's pretty solid. The barrel nut itself is a bit bigger, but it's also "meatier" too.
Thank you, I completely forgot to mention that this rail was different from what he is talking about. I have one of the older style (Just a locking ring) on another rifle and intend to replace it some day. But that would mean I have to remove the front gas block and that one may as well be welded on there. It will have to be cut off.
As to the other things. I will skip the Blackhawk Sling. It is just something I had laying around so I though I would ask.
I do need to get a H Buffer. know anyone that has them in stock?
decodeddiesel
12-30-08, 15:13
Thank you, I completely forgot to mention that this rail was different from what he is talking about. I have one of the older style (Just a locking ring) on another rifle and intend to replace it some day. But that would mean I have to remove the front gas block and that one may as well be welded on there. It will have to be cut off.
As to the other things. I will skip the Blackhawk Sling. It is just something I had laying around so I though I would ask.
I do need to get a H Buffer. know anyone that has them in stock?
kwelz what do you mostly shoot? If it's NATO spec think about an H2 instead.
I stand corrected on the YMH. I've just never been a fan. I much prefer a LaRue or DD.
The only bad thing about Aimpoints is that you will never get to use your BUIS. ;) Since the possibility is there that you will have to use yours with the EOTech I would definitely recommend a better one than the one you have. Your ARMS replacement is a step in the right direction.
I also don't see a problem with your rail since it is the newer model with the screws. But even with those it still relies on the barrel nut torque as the primary anti-rotation device and if it ever does turn it can bind the gas tube pushing it off center from the gas key causing a malfunction. Very unlikely but I guess could happen. A lot of rails rely on the barrel nut so I wouldn't worry about it too much. Although Larue is the only one I can think of that has an actual keeper that indexes off the upper receiver that prevents rotation. I sure there are others though.
The buttstock I don't know about. There are only a few that will pass a .mil-type drop test (like a Vltor E-Mod, Magpul UBR, etc.) so if it fits good it should be fine for your needs. But if you like to slam the stock down while doing 3-5 second rushes I would suggest you upgrade. I also would at least get a simple single point sling but a two-point usually serves better. With the bolt, just keep an eye on it but definitely pick up a spare just in case.
For the flash hider i believe the difference is only a 1/4"-1/2" so I would not worry about the length difference. If you are banging into doors with your muzzle while clearing rooms because of a 1/2" difference you need more training which is more important than a sling, optics, light IMHO.
As to buffer I would go as heavy as I could that doesn't short stroke on low powered ammo and call it good. Definitely test it thoroughly though. Just because it cycles on Wolf ammo when its nice and lubed up doesn't mean it still will when that carbon fouling starts slowing things down a little. You need to find a good balance. Although if you aren't getting dropped extraction with a CAR buffer and higher pressure NATO ammo I don't see the need to install a heavier one. My rifle works fine with the CAR buffer but some require up to a 9mm buffer depending on the gas port size and ammo used.
One last thing. I have noticed on an Ergo grip that I have since sold that after running and gunning for a while the grip plug can work its way out. So if you do store extra batteries in there just be aware you may need to check it every now and then and push it back up.
Cool beans, it sounds like you're pretty ahead of the game already on the training, ammo, and magazines. I can tell you the mags I had in Iraq were Okay industries with the green followers and I never had a problem. That being said the Magpul anti-tilt followers are definitely worth the money. Like wise maybe think about hitting up a formal training class? You might be surprised at what you learn from a true professional. A few other things I would suggest...
If you're going to keep that EOTech I would strongly suggest moving it back on your receiver. You've got it positioned right over the barrel nut which is about the worst possible spot for heat soak. Trust me it will fry if it gets hot, I have seen it happen more times than I would like to recall. That barrel nut is basically a heat sink/heat pipe for transferring heat away from the barrel and to the rails, you're going to want to keep that EOTech away from it.
I like free float rails, but not the YMH. For me having a critical weapon component (the gas tube) be the only anti-rotation device is just not acceptable. I really like the LaRue rails or the DD Omega. The quality is far better than the YMH and built in QD cup is really nice...
I have used tape switches and don't care for them. I would place the light in such a way that you can activate it with your thumb.
Excellent reply.
Maybe you could help me choose the lightest high or highest quality 16" flat top upper.
I have another POF lower that's begging for an upper and this one will wear a LMT SOPMOD stock.
Thanks to you and the OP.
Outlander Systems
12-30-08, 20:54
DCD: I picked up an EOTech 512 this weekend for my "fun blaster".
Because of my BUIS, I stuck it about where the OP had his. I wasn't privvy to the issues of heat being, ah...less than favourable to the EO.
At any rate, I'm pretty much up shit's creek on this one. I can either move it back further, but at least 1/2" of the nose is going to be over the barrel nut. I suppose that's better than where it's currently mounted.
My only other option is to move it to the front on my handguard rail (which is free-floated). I didn't want to put any more weight in the front of the blaster, but it's sounding like that's about my only option at this point.
Any other advice? My EO isn't as short as the 553 the OP's runnin', so I'm feeling pretty SOL.
Parabellum9x19mm
12-30-08, 21:29
Any other advice? My EO isn't as short as the 553 the OP's runnin', so I'm feeling pretty SOL.
a rail like the DD with an overhang would work, especially with the LT EO riser. i like to put the "nose" forward of the barrel nut.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/parabellum9x19mm/1201080603a.jpg
I'm perplexed by this statement. :confused:
Can you tell me what stocks are on the M4C Kool-Aid approved list?
I think we just found a title for a new sticky thread.
Sorry to rez my own thread but I made some changes and wanted your opinion.
I got rid of the original Civilian tube and CAA stock and replaced it with a VLTOR Modstock. At the same time I did that I added a single point sling adapter, and of course it now has the flashlight.
I also moved the Eotech back as people suggested and added a Matech BUIS.
I plan on swapping out the front site/gas block for a flip up site.
The quad rail is staying the same for now. Mainly because I can't find anything better in stock anywhere around here.
I am also thinking about swapping out the magpul rail covers for the ladder style. Haven't decided there yet.
Also put another 600 rounds though it with no problems. (keeping my fingers crossed)
http://homepage.mac.com/kwelz/.Pictures/bm10.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/kwelz/.Pictures/bm11.jpg
FromMyColdDeadHand
01-24-09, 02:12
RE: Light Position, are you going to put the VFG back on? Just trying to picture how you are going to turn on the light. I guess you could extend the support thumb and stab it. Secondarily, on the bottom, the barrel will cast a shadow up, usually towards the face.
Two is one, one is none. Now go get another AR ;)
Nice Stick.
I LOVE my Bushmaster I have shot over 8000 rounds and all I had to change was the ejector spring (at a Gun Site Class). Now about training: If you are a vet of OIF or Afghanistan Gun Site has a pistol class and a carbine class for FREE!! Look ‘em up and check there calendar for the dates. FREE Class and when I went we had FREE AMMO too. :D
Outlander Systems
01-24-09, 09:42
+1 on the Matech.
If you decide to get rid of those rail covers, let me know (PM me). I can't get black Magpul goodies around here to save my life.
I wouldn't get a fold-down front sight, and would keep that stock FSB.
Outlander Systems
01-24-09, 09:51
Let's talk about my "go-to" Carbine.
The OP's post is pretty much verbatim for what I'd like to write, since his situation, and original setup aren't too dissimilar from my own.
Before:
http://i35.tinypic.com/2q9kzdl.jpg
After:
http://img398.imageshack.us/img398/3166/mammyjammyjs8.jpg
Bushmaster Modular Carbine
EOTech 512
Surefire G2LED
Insight M3X
Matech BUIS
YHM Front Sight
MOE Stock
TD Gangster Grip
Viking Tactics Light Mount
Midwest Industries Single Point Sling Mount
Mall Ninja "Barrel Shroud" (My sig explains why it's still on there)
I'd love nothing more than to remove that piece of shit, decorative Ninja-riffic shroud on the front of the thing, but there's enough Loctite on there to hold a Volkswagen to the underside of 747. I'd hit it with a torch, but I'm worried I'll get the temperatures too hot for the barrel, and jack it up. Since replacement barrels aren't exactly easy to come by, ruining it isn't something I'm looking forward to doing.
Outlander Systems
01-24-09, 10:03
P.S. The YHM rail is definitely NOT mil-spec, since trying to get the TD grip on there required a ball peen hammer, and four fingers. It was a righteous pain in the ass, but it's infinitely more solid than the CAA which didn't even lock in between the rails.
decodeddiesel
01-24-09, 10:47
Let's talk about my "go-to" Carbine.
The OP's post is pretty much verbatim for what I'd like to write, since his situation, and original setup aren't too dissimilar from my own.
Before:
http://i35.tinypic.com/2q9kzdl.jpg
After:
http://img398.imageshack.us/img398/3166/mammyjammyjs8.jpg
Bushmaster Modular Carbine
EOTech 512
Surefire G2LED
Insight M3X
Matech BUIS
YHM Front Sight
MOE Stock
TD Gangster Grip
Viking Tactics Light Mount
Midwest Industries Single Point Sling Mount
Mall Ninja "Barrel Shroud" (My sig explains why it's still on there)
I'd love nothing more than to remove that piece of shit, decorative Ninja-riffic shroud on the front of the thing, but there's enough Loctite on there to hold a Volkswagen to the underside of 747. I'd hit it with a torch, but I'm worried I'll get the temperatures too hot for the barrel, and jack it up. Since replacement barrels aren't exactly easy to come by, ruining it isn't something I'm looking forward to doing.
You're going to have to bite the bullet and send it to ADCO and have a professional remove that POS.
Thanks guys!
I had no plans for a VFG on this rifle although I am not opposed to one. Currently the light can easily be activated by s very slight shift of my index finger on the handguard.
Sorry Landlord even if I switch out the rail covers, these would just go on a different rifle.
I currently own 4 ARs. This is just the one I wanted to start with to make sure it was set up right. The others will progress over time as well.
Rob_s Any specific reason you don't suggest Flip up front sites?
Rob_s Any specific reason you don't suggest Flip up front sites?
No reason for them, and when using an RDS the fixed FSB plus the screen/tube can be used as an emergency BUIS with a little practice.
Any time you're changing something out on a rifle, or adding to it, ask yourself:
1) What are the benefits of the existing part?
2) What the liabilities of the existing part?
3) What are the benefits of the new part?
4) What the liabilities of the new part?
In this case...
1)
-double-pinned in place (most secure mounting you can get)
-gas port is aligned
-works as emergency BUIS with RDS
2)
-Appears to be "in the way" (a fallacy, BTW)
-not F-height (correctable with taller post)
3)
-Out of the way
4)
-attachment method (single pin, set screw, clamp-on, etc.)
-more moving parts
-chance of mis-aligned gas port
Outlander Systems
01-24-09, 11:51
"You're going to have to bite the bullet and send it to ADCO and have a professional remove that POS."
Grrrrreat.
I may just burn the shit out of the barrel, and replace it when it's worn out. Is it a fair assumption to say the barrel life of an AR barrel is roughly 5k-6k rounds?
I'll keep my eyes open for a replacement, since I hate the flip up front sight anyway, and would prefer a standard FSB.
Any other obvious fixes, changes, etc. you guys see I should work on? I've considered moving the EOTech to the handguard since the rail is free-floated, but I'm debating whether that's a hot idea or not.
decodeddiesel
01-24-09, 12:09
"You're going to have to bite the bullet and send it to ADCO and have a professional remove that POS."
Grrrrreat.
I may just burn the shit out of the barrel, and replace it when it's worn out. Is it a fair assumption to say the barrel life of an AR barrel is roughly 5k-6k rounds?
I'll keep my eyes open for a replacement, since I hate the flip up front sight anyway, and would prefer a standard FSB.
Any other obvious fixes, changes, etc. you guys see I should work on? I've considered moving the EOTech to the handguard since the rail is free-floated, but I'm debating whether that's a hot idea or not.
1.) WAY WAY WAY more.
2.) That's exactly what moving your EOtoy out onto the hand guard would be.
kwelz,
Leave the fixed FSB in place. It's a better deal for now.
Landlord,
If you apply the heat slowly it should break loose. Also, you can soak that part of the barrel in Acetone which will eat up the Loc-tite with no problem.
Outlander Systems
01-24-09, 12:42
I may try the Acetone idea. I lathered the 271 on like cake icing, so it should be interesting...
The idea that the ninja shroud would act like a bull barrel worked, only it's a little too bullish. The thing weighs a metric ton. It's like having a brick at the end of my already heavy-as-hell blaster.
Outlander Systems
01-24-09, 18:50
I've heard so many conflicting numbers on the typical life of a semi-only barrel. I'm seeing everything from 5k to 30k before any performance reduction is achieved.
Also, both my blasters have a 1:9 ROT; I know it's poo-pooed, but I assumed this actually increased barrel life? Am I wrong?
Barrel life is what it is. Shoot it until the groups open up. I see no benefit to trying to anticipate it.
Sorry to rez my own thread but I made some changes and wanted your opinion.
I got rid of the original Civilian tube and CAA stock and replaced it with a VLTOR Modstock. At the same time I did that I added a single point sling adapter, and of course it now has the flashlight.
I also moved the Eotech back as people suggested and added a Matech BUIS.
I plan on swapping out the front site/gas block for a flip up site.
The quad rail is staying the same for now. Mainly because I can't find anything better in stock anywhere around here.
I am also thinking about swapping out the magpul rail covers for the ladder style. Haven't decided there yet.
Also put another 600 rounds though it with no problems. (keeping my fingers crossed)
http://homepage.mac.com/kwelz/.Pictures/bm10.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/kwelz/.Pictures/bm11.jpg
You have done a great job on that rifle man. I'm building a M4 right now and that's what I want mine to look like, simple and clean.
I wouldn't get a fold-down front sight, and would keep that stock FSB. Good call. I see far too many guys removing the fixed FSB for no apparent reason, other that because they can. More problems are often created than solved. Set screws can come loose and gas blocks can become misaligned. The fixed FBS does not interfere with picking up the red dot and it's one less part to flip up if you need to transition to iron sights.
Ok a couple other things. Since this is not an F marked FSB where can I get the correct post so my Sites are not way off.
Also I am thinking about putting an ARMS #40 on here and putting the Matech on another rifle I am building.
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