Mike Miller
05-04-23, 20:17
I made some 3d printed jigs for pinning SLR gas blocks. I went with this brand because they have a flat section on one side to make it easier to drill them without using an end mill first to cut into the rounded side of a regular gas block. I decided to share them here in case anyone wanted to pin their own
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6008184
The jigs are for the GB7 Pin Micro Block (https://slrrifleworks.com/gb7-pin-micro-gas-block), and the GB6 Micro with .450" Spacing (https://slrrifleworks.com/gb6-micro-gas-block-450-spacing)
The hole for the drill bit is oversized, with an angled window cut into it. This is to allow you to check and recheck proper positioning for your setup within your vise before turning on the press to begin drilling. Use a bubble level on top of this jig in your vise to make sure everything is level after tightening
Make sure that you support the bottom of this jig with a piece of steel, with a hole cut out for the bit to go through. Don't rely on just a 3d printed part to hold as you push down with the drill bit, there's a lot of force being applied, especially at the end when clearing through the other side
Before drilling, I dimpled my barrels for set screws, to help ensure that everything stayed in place
I used a #31 Cobalt drill bit in a press, then a 2/0 taper reamer by hand
Here's the result of one of them, before taper reaming:
https://i.imgur.com/irmndVF.jpg
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6008184
The jigs are for the GB7 Pin Micro Block (https://slrrifleworks.com/gb7-pin-micro-gas-block), and the GB6 Micro with .450" Spacing (https://slrrifleworks.com/gb6-micro-gas-block-450-spacing)
The hole for the drill bit is oversized, with an angled window cut into it. This is to allow you to check and recheck proper positioning for your setup within your vise before turning on the press to begin drilling. Use a bubble level on top of this jig in your vise to make sure everything is level after tightening
Make sure that you support the bottom of this jig with a piece of steel, with a hole cut out for the bit to go through. Don't rely on just a 3d printed part to hold as you push down with the drill bit, there's a lot of force being applied, especially at the end when clearing through the other side
Before drilling, I dimpled my barrels for set screws, to help ensure that everything stayed in place
I used a #31 Cobalt drill bit in a press, then a 2/0 taper reamer by hand
Here's the result of one of them, before taper reaming:
https://i.imgur.com/irmndVF.jpg