PDA

View Full Version : 1911 duracoat



gunner757
01-25-09, 19:27
I have a kimber pro carry 2, which is slightly customized and i was thinking about doing a duracoat paint job on it. I was wondering if anyone has had any experience doing this at home with their own guns, and how labor intensive the process is. And/ or is their a better or more efficient way to paint a 1911 pistol using a different product? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks...

SSGN_Doc
01-25-09, 19:50
I have a friend who uses Duracoat quite a bit and swears by it. I personnally don't have the patience to let it fully cure before I have to try test firing after mods and refinishing. So, I like Norrell's Moly Resin.

Duracoat air cures and can be handled after 24 hours, but shouldn't be rough handled or shot for 2-3 weeks. Also, if exposed to high temps like barrels, it can discolor.

Norrell's requires baking. I use a $20 toaster oven for pistols and small parts. The good news is that the gun is ready to be fired as soon as it cools and can be reassembled and lubed.

Both products are good quality and hold up quite well if applied properly.

gunner757
01-25-09, 19:54
Thanks i appreciate the info. I am a bit apprehensive to try this, however i think i am gonna try it anyways. I guess most of all i want the warm and fuzzy that it is gonna turn out the way i want it. Thanks for the info, i will look into the norrells product.

John_Wayne777
01-25-09, 20:04
I have a kimber pro carry 2, which is slightly customized and i was thinking about doing a duracoat paint job on it. I was wondering if anyone has had any experience doing this at home with their own guns, and how labor intensive the process is. And/ or is their a better or more efficient way to paint a 1911 pistol using a different product? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks...

I've used it. The key is to degrease the weapon really well and then spray on the DuraCoat using an airbrush after you've figured out how to work the airbrush the proper way. Multiple thin coats are the best way to go.

Then let the parts sit for at least a month without touching them. That seems to drastically improve the way the finish wears over time....

...but it is still a paint finish and it will still come off in wear areas. For the money invested in the gear to do the Duracoat with and the paint itself, you could probably have someone who is competent do another type of finish that will probably last longer.

Some pics of an old bad condition Sistema Colt I refinished. It came in looking like this:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/jwayne_777/IMGP0079.jpg

I sandblasted it using the finest glass beads I could find (from a jewler's supply store):

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/jwayne_777/IMGP0114.jpg

Then I put a two tone grey/black Duracoat finish on it:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/jwayne_777/IMGP0134.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/jwayne_777/IMGP0133.jpg

I bought two of them and I let one sit for only 24 hours and the other I didn't touch for about 2 months. The one I left sitting for two months has held up MUCH better in the finish department than the one I messed with after 24 hours. (I baked both of them at 200 degrees for 2 hours) For maximum durability my advice would be to avoid doing ANY handling of the refinished parts whatsoever for at least a month. Re-assembly even after 24 hours will peel off the finish.

gunner757
01-25-09, 20:29
Awesome, thanks for the info. I debated bringing it to a gunsmith and just paying someone to do it. But i was also looking for a project. I guess i have some thinking to do.

torrpd
01-30-09, 19:42
Does norrells have a web site?

neodecker
01-30-09, 19:58
Is this it?
http://www.johnnorrellarms.com/default.asp