Captive or Non-Captive Guide Rods in Glock or poly-frame Pistols

[Gutshot John]

In my G34 I use a stainless, non-captive rod with wolff spring. It functions perfectly, and I like the relative value of just having to replace the spring instead of a whole assembly, though I keep a couple captive rods as backup spares. That said in thousands of rounds I've never had a failure and only replaced springs when I thought I had to, instead of something not working.

That said the non-captive is really annoying to insert.

I was wondering what people preferred and if there were factors I'm not considering since it's not inherent to the design.

[LOKNLOD]

Wolff guide rod + spring = 29.95
Wolff Glock spring = $7.89 at Wolff's site.
OEM recoil assembly = $4.95 at LoneWolf.

I can keep 6 spare OEM assemblies on hand for the entry price on the Wolff setup. I realize there may be cheaper rods available...but as far as the economy of it, I don't see any advantage. And the OEM assemblies are about as easy to store and swap as you could want (better than a loose spring).

The only advantage I see to the replacement guide rods is if you'd like to experiement with different non-standard spring weights.

Never seen or heard of issues with the OEM ass'ys, with the exception of a rod melting on some 1000rd non-stop torture "test". IIRC that still didn't kill the pistol.

Are there any known issues with the factory assembly?

[woodandsteel]

I replaced mine (2nd Generation Glock 22) with an OEM guide rod and spring. I was looking at replacing with an after market one. But, I spoke with an armorer at work. He talked me out of it. He said that the only purpose to the guide rod in the glock assembly was to help in linning up the spring during reassembly. He said that theoretically you can fire the gun even if the guide rod were to "disapear". Plus, the OEM spring in guide rod cost $4.95, so I can afford spares.

I know the Glock 22 and 34 share the same guide rods, but I am not sure if there is any difference in replacing the springs in the 34. I have no experience with the 34. But I do want to get one eventually.

[ToddG]

Whatever comes from the factory.

[tpd223]

I have seen issues with the non factory stuff if it's not well chosen.

I get the factory guide rod/spring assembly for $3.95 from OMB, they work, I see no reason to buy anything else. I carry/use G17s mostly, have a G34 and G26s as well.

If I was shooting a 10mm with some of the hotter loads I might think about a Wolff guide rod and extra power spring set, or if I was stuck with a Glock 22 for a duty weapon, otherwise it's a waste of my ammo money.

[Jack_Stroker]

The stock guide rods have always worked well for me. I've never replaced them on any weapon outside of regular maintenence.

[Federale]

OEM. The only time I've ever had issues with any Glock I've ever owned, borrowed or been issued has been when I've tried to add aftermarket parts. Some aftermarket parts have worked, but recoil springs in particular, have caused issues. And when I put the original recoil spring and rod back in, all the problems went away.

[Paul45]

I have a non-captive on my G34 and G35 for the extra guide rod weight. They are game guns. On my carry guns, I only use OEM units - they work great.

[Alpha Sierra]

Whatever comes from the factory.
+1

My 915 has a non captive spring. My M&Ps have captive ones. I honestly don't care one way or the other.

[Littlelebowski]

Captive. I have this habit of losing springs.

[mrosamilia]

Whatever comes from the factory.
+1 if it ain't broke don't fix it:D

[torrpd]

Depends on what your using your pistol for.

Defense = stock

Competition = whatever makes it run right

:D

[EzGoingKev]

I have a stainless guide rod with a Wolff recoil spring in my G17 and have put a several thousand rounds through it without any issues. It has been in there so long it was before they were selling captive spring set ups for the Glock. It is a pain in the ass to get in there.

I am going to part with it and get a G23 and I am going to go with a captive spring. I am debating going with a tungsten guide rod to get the extra weight out front to keep muzzle flip down.

[JonInWA]

The new factory captive guide rod assemblys from Glock with a "1" on them (at the back of the flange that fits into the half-moon crescent of the barrel lug) are fiberglass-impregnated polymer-they're stiffer and more heat-resistant than the previous factory incarnations, and were specifically designed for continuous/higher round count shooting without deformation or self-destruction (apparently at the behest of a major southern-US LE organization).

I know that they're at least available for the G17 and G19 Glocks; I'm uncertain if they're available yet for others. I believe that they're being incorporated into normal production.

Best, Jon

[LittleRedToyota]

another vote for the stock guide rod assembly.

never had any problems with them.

[wesprt]

The factory guide rod does not need "improving" upon.

[Gentoo]

Factory for me because I'm cheap like that.

[dbrowne1]

Whatever comes from the factory.

+1

It's a Glock. The entire OEM assembly is $5 and lasts for thousands of rounds. It works fine. To be honest I've never even considered this question.