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View Full Version : Diesel as cleaning solvent........



kukang
02-03-09, 19:29
In one of the ranges I frequent, we primarily use diesel as our cleaning solvent. It is very very effective. My question is, can regular use of diesel potentially cause damage to our firearms?

jmart
02-03-09, 19:57
In one of the ranges I frequent, we primarily use diesel as our cleaning solvent. It is very very effective. My question is, can regular use of diesel potentially cause damage to our firearms?

No. [obligatory extra characters to keep the software happy]

sinister
02-03-09, 20:28
Diesel works OK, as well as automatic transmission fluid for cleaning.

Clean, new motor oil works as a satisfactory lube.

gunner757
02-03-09, 21:52
several years back my unit was down in honduras training the honduran marines and they used motor oil to clean their weapons. I was shocked, and couldnt possibly see how it could work sufficiently but it did. It seemed to do the job, i am just not that brave. I use dilluted simple green to clean my weapons, and then oil it up afterwards.

Left Sig
02-03-09, 21:54
But it could cause damage to your skin. If you are going to use diesel, wear rubber gloves.

gunner757
02-03-09, 21:57
Good point... It definitely is some pretty nasty stuff.

DBR
02-03-09, 22:18
Standard off the shelf Simple Green is bad for aluminum. There is a special aircraft version that is OK. There are better cleaners for guns.

100% synthetic motor oil is a good solvent for most gun fouling. Some of the new chelation cleaners like Bore Tech Eliminator seem to do a pretty good job even on copper without harming the parts.

To answer the OP's question - diesel will work well as a solvent but there are additives in the fuel that are not very friendly to people. It shouldn't harm the guns. It will remove all the oil.

Iraqgunz
02-04-09, 01:51
I have used Simple Green mixed with HOT water for cleaning a variety of weapons and had no issues. That includes aluminum parts (rails) as well. We used a compressor to displace any moisture and made sure everything was dried afterwards.

Col_Crocs
02-04-09, 04:02
I use WD40 and kerosene. I spray the bore/chamber, BCG, and upper receiver with WD40. Let it sit a bit and clean with the usual tools. I then "rinse" with kerosene, wipe off what I can, let dry and lube.
I also occasionally de-grease the BCG with alcohol before lubricating.

number9xd
02-04-09, 06:14
I use Hoppes #9 and brake cleaner, with Mobil1 to lube. I am going to change that though and try out a mixture/method by member name QUIB over on TOS. He uses Odorless Mineral Spirits and BreakFree CLP mix to clean parts in a bath / soak method. I may even try a batch of Ed's Red (minus the acetone) for cleaning if I don't like the OMS/CLP potion.

....

Storydude
02-04-09, 06:46
Ed's Red is mostly all I use on rifles.

1/3 Acetone
1/3 ATF Dextron 3
1/3 Kerosene. The true Ed's Red formula had Lanolin and more in it, but I've found those 3 mixed together do a WONDERFUL job. Just keep it off Plastic unless you like the Salvidor Dali look.

All my handguns get stripped and dropped into my Ultrasonic cleaner.

jbm555
02-04-09, 09:14
The version of Ed's Red that I use is equal parts of kerosene, Dexron ATF, Acetone and mineral spirits. I mix up a quart at a time and store it in a mason jar. I pour a small amount into a smaller jam jar for cleaning.

In my opinion it does a better job of cutting carbon than anything else. I soak the tail end of the bolt while I clean the rest of the rifle and the carbon mostly whipes right off with a rag.

Ed's Red has an unpleasant smell so in the winter when I have to clean indoors I switch to Hoppes.

45guy
02-04-09, 09:45
I bet the wives love the smell of that diesel fuel in the family room.:)
Save yourselves a lot of trouble and get some Slip 2000 carbon killer.

DBR
02-04-09, 11:21
Iraqgunz:

A few years ago I spoke with the chemist at Simple Green to see if it was OK for aluminum. The info I am relating here is what she said.

Simple Green had to change their formulation and offer it in an "aircraft" version to be certified for use on aluminum aircraft parts. A quick cleaning may be OK. The problem comes if it gets into any cracks or crevices or under fastener heads etc and doesn't get rinsed out completely. Over time it will remove anodizing and corrode the aluminum.

Quib
07-25-09, 08:23
I am going to change that though and try out a mixture/method by member name QUIB over on TOS. He uses Odorless Mineral Spirits and BreakFree CLP mix to clean parts in a bath / soak method.

....

How's that OMS/CLP working out? Give it a try yet?

Frens
07-25-09, 08:29
to the OP,
I use it regularly and never had a single problem in many years.
of course I use "real" gun cleaning solvent as well.

The_War_Wagon
07-25-09, 08:51
I still like Kleenbore #10 as a cleaner - also does WONDERS for taking duct tape residue off mags that have been in the sandboxes (I like to pick those up on the cheap at gun shows, clean 'em up, add a Magpul follower, and then have a nice range mag for the effort!). I then use Slick50 Lube to oil 'em - rifle and mags. :D

RogerinTPA
07-25-09, 08:52
In one of the ranges I frequent, we primarily use diesel as our cleaning solvent. It is very very effective. My question is, can regular use of diesel potentially cause damage to our firearms?

It works, but I'd be concerned with working with it long term, health wise. As someone else mentioned, I saw the hondurans cleaning with motor oil and other folks using diesel. I use WD-40 to hose down and clean the upper and lower. After your done, it's already lubed. Just lube the BCG with a more durable lube(what ever your favorite is) and your GTG.

Speaking of lube, I've been experimenting with a couple of motor oils, 10W Mobil 1/Militec 1 and 20W Royal Purple(being completely synthetic)/Militec 1 (2/3,1/3 mix). The royal purple mix is as thick and durable as Slip EWL.

Heavy Metal
07-25-09, 09:17
Better than gas but still contains Benzene which is a proven carcenogen. Think of your liver.

Wear good thick butyl gloves if you insist on using it. Disposable rubber gloves don't cut it.

cptx123
07-25-09, 11:28
Brake cleaner-non chlorine seems to work well for me.

sholling
07-25-09, 14:55
I bet the wives love the smell of that diesel fuel in the family room.:)
Save yourselves a lot of trouble and get some Slip 2000 carbon killer.
That's one reason that I like MPro7 for cleaning and MPro7 bore gel for the bore. It's non-toxic and has no chemical odor. And it does a great job. I keep the bore gel in the fridge to keep it thick. I'm too new to AR15s to make a pronouncement on the best AR lube but I use either Side Glide Lite or Mobil-1 grease the slides and bolts on most of my weapons and Weapons Shield or Break Free on everything else.

Has anyone used an ultrasonic cleaner for the bolt? I have one that I use for handguns.

geminidglocker
07-25-09, 15:15
Cherry juice,AKA Automatic Tranny fluid, is also a carcinogen. It's some nasty stuff. Definitly avoid exposure to skin. Once, in Iraq I had to lay in a puddle of it for about half an hour fixing a humvee. The uniform I was wearing was beyond repair. I tried washing it but when dry it cracked apart, not to mention it was stained. I hope that I did'nt get cancer from it. I had no choice at the time, sometimes ya' just gotta' do what ya' gotta' do.

ZDL
07-25-09, 15:17
***********

bkb0000
07-25-09, 15:35
deisel is oily, but it's still a distillate, like most (all?) solvents.

in case you guys have somehow not thought of it, simply putting a box fan blowing outside in the window, and opening a window or door at the other end, will pretty much eliminate fume problems. i have a regular box fan in my attached shop- wife used to complain about fumes leaking into the house, but since putting the fan up there she says she cant even smell it when she's IN the shop.

Quib
07-25-09, 16:10
deisel is oily, but it's still a distillate, like most (all?) solvents.

in case you guys have somehow not thought of it, simply putting a box fan blowing outside in the window, and opening a window or door at the other end, will pretty much eliminate fume problems. i have a regular box fan in my attached shop- wife used to complain about fumes leaking into the house, but since putting the fan up there she says she cant even smell it when she's IN the shop.

I used Hoppes #9 for years with out a problem, but a few years ago I started getting headaches from the fumes even with the windows open for cross ventilation. Now, I have to go as far as putting a box fan in my shop window if I break out the ol’ #9.

That’s one plus to my OMS/CLP mixture.....low to no odor.

Dunderway
07-25-09, 17:20
I use WD40 and kerosene. I spray the bore/chamber, BCG, and upper receiver with WD40. Let it sit a bit and clean with the usual tools. I then "rinse" with kerosene, wipe off what I can, let dry and lube.
I also occasionally de-grease the BCG with alcohol before lubricating.

Kerosene seems to work very well.

Dunderway
07-25-09, 17:24
In one of the ranges I frequent, we primarily use diesel as our cleaning solvent. It is very very effective. My question is, can regular use of diesel potentially cause damage to our firearms?

I might worry about it dissolving or degrading your plastic spring insert/o-ring if you just drop your assembled BCG into a bucket of it.

Combat_Diver
07-26-09, 00:27
My mounted detachment used to use diesel all the time to clean our M2 .50/M240 7.62mm/Mk19 40mm machine guns. We would pour the diesel into a 20mm/40mm can and let the parts soak then scrub with brushes. Air drying in the desert was quick, reassemble and lube.

CD

tylerw02
07-26-09, 15:43
I've found Kroil works very good for cleaning. I like to follow it up with alcohol to degrease.

Brake cleaner or carb cleaner work well too, but it isn't good for your skin.

So far, I've found heavier Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil to be a great lube. I keep it in a syringe. Its kept my 1911 and AR15s running good thus far.

zspeed130
07-26-09, 17:30
A parts washer ( a generic one from a tool wholesaler) Filled with mineral spirits works great if you do a lot of cleaning. I use it for car parts etc. Follow that up with brakeclean. I use the parts washer and follow up with laquer thinner for paint jobs on my guns.

Z

Killjoy
07-26-09, 17:41
Haven't used diesel as a cleaning solvent....I've been using Hoppes #9 for years as a solvent without any problems.

STJ
07-26-09, 19:00
Using Mobile1 as a lube, I don't need to use a 'cleaner' as all the grime wipes off with a rag. The only cleaning that may be needed is the barrel and bolt tale. The bolt tale I use a case month to scrape off the carbon. The barrel, if CL, I just run a bore snake through it. If SS then a bore cleaner solvent for the copper deposits.

I don't understand the need for scrubbing a gun soaked in solvent....they are not old grease covered engine parts, that is what I use diesel for, in a 5 gallon bucket.

TangoChaser
07-27-09, 22:10
Wait.......we're supposed to clean our guns?

larry0071
07-28-09, 07:25
I run wet with Weapon Shield and never have needed any cleaner. Similar to STJ, when I am done shooting 98% of the shit wipes right off. Only the taper-radius on the bolt gets some bits of crusty stuff that needs a direct drop or two of the Weapon Shield and left to set a min or 3... then I just use my finger nails into the rag and it rubs off to bare metal.

I vote WEAPON SHIELD.

Patrick Aherne
07-28-09, 11:13
I understand using diesel, ATF and motor oil if that's all you've got, but most of that stuff is downright nasty for your liver and other organs. I stick with MPro 7 and SLiP 725 cleaner and use Slip 2000 lube, exclusively.

I would rather damage my liver with distilled grain and potato products. YMMV

TangoChaser
07-28-09, 12:17
I used Remington Dry Lube for lubrication which kept my M4 pretty clean. I used tranny fluid from the HMMWVs to clean it and add a little extra lube as well. Smelled like a burnt clutch when I fired it but it was slick.