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View Full Version : What are your opinions on blade profiles for a Benchmade Mini-Griptilian



3CTactical
03-05-09, 22:55
I bought a Benchmade Mini-Griptilian model 555SBKHG with the partially serrated hollowground modified sheepsfoot blade a few months ago and I really have been liking it, but I have always carried a partially serrated tanto blade in the past and I miss the thickness of the tanto. Also, I've never owned a folder without serrations so I'm not sure what I might be missing there by going with a non-serrated blade.

Soooooo,

I'm looking to order another mini-griptilian, but I wanted to explore the other options that are available in regards to blade choices. I know a lot of folks don't care for partially serrated blades and some love them, and I also know that some people hate tanto blades and prefer a drop point. I was wondering if I could get some of your input as to what style of blade you like and why.

I would be using the knife for everyday things such as: cutting open boxes from G&R Tactical, cutting pieces of duct tape, cutting tomatoes for a lunchtime sandwich, trimming small branches off the Christmas tree (my current griptilian worked great this Christmas), digging up weeds out of my lawn, cleaning my fingernails, stripping wire, cutting plastic tie wraps off of wire bundles, etc. etc.

rob_s
03-06-09, 05:03
I sold Benchmades years ago, and consequently own quite a few. I have several blade styles, sizes, etc. I also still think that Benchmade is just about the best value in the knife business, and with the number of different styles they make today I always start with them when I'm knife shopping and then go to the competition if Benchmade doesn't have something that will fill my needs, which is rare.

I have gotten away from any tanto or serrated blade styles. While I do think they can serve their purpose, I don't find that either is suitable for my use. Combine the two and you've got yourself an even less useful tool.

Let's look at the Griptilian with thumb stud as an example (even though I think the one with the thumbhole is a better tool)

Here's the basic Griptillian. Notice the full smooth cutting edge of the standard blade. The blade is 3.45" long and you essentially have the full length of the blade for cutting.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q111/rob_s/gun%20stuff/551.jpg


Now here's the same blade style, but partially serrated. Notice that the serrations take up at least 1/3 and more like 1/2 of the total cutting edge of the knife. Yes, the serrations still cut too, but depending on what you're cutting you may not want that jagged of a cut, and in my experience a sharp non-serrated blade will cut through things like zip-ties and packing straps, and even extension cords, without a problem.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q111/rob_s/gun%20stuff/551sbksn.jpg



And here's the tanto version. See how the sharp angle in the blade reduces the cutting edge even further? The longest uninterrupted cutting edge on the knife is now the serrated portion. If what you want is a serrated knife, buy a serrated knife, because buying this blade style is just about useless for any fine cutting.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q111/rob_s/gun%20stuff/553sbk.jpg



One last suggestion, and I don't think this option exists in the mini-Griptilian models, but if you're going to be doing any cutting that involves plunging the knife into something, or if you're going to be using the full length of the blade for cutting, consider getting the thumbhole model. In my experience the thumb stud just gets in the way, and gets mucked up with whatever you're trying to cut in these situations.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q111/rob_s/gun%20stuff/550hg.jpg


If you're wondering where I come up with all this nonsense, it's from carrying and using a very early production Benchmade Striker as a daily work knife on a construction site. This knife was used to dig holes, cut insulation off of chilled water pipes, cut many a head off of a defective extension cord, and also open boxes, pull staples from plans, and even do a little paper cutting in the office. Notice the amount of finish wear as a testament to how well used this knife was. In the year that I used it I sent it back to Benchmade once for the lifesharp mostly because I kind of dinged the blade edge on the foremost cutting surface using the knife as a screwdriver.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q111/rob_s/gun%20stuff/dsc0665mediumgv5.jpg



and what's my current daily carry knife on the jobsite? The one below, based on all the lessons I learned trying to use the Striker as a work tool.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q111/rob_s/gun%20stuff/griptilian.jpg

3CTactical
03-06-09, 09:49
Wow - Thanks for your post - very insightful and helpful. I appreciate the time and thought you took to write this. As I've been looking over the various models, I have been leaning towards the non-serrated drop point style blade, as I've never owned one like that before. I think your info has convinced me to go this route. Thanks again!

MarshallDodge
03-06-09, 10:14
Great post Rob. I can't stand serrated blades although I do realize that they have their place.

I also started out with a Stryker and now have a 556BTOD Mini-Griptillian. It is like the first photo that Rob posted but with the black blade coating and OD grips. The thumb stud doesn't bother me but I think I would go without the coating next time around because it's pretty ugly when it starts to wear.

Like Rob said, Benchmades are great knives for the money spent.

gkanga
03-07-09, 14:37
The ONLY thing I like serrations for is for stripping wire, which is something that you mentioned. Most partially serrated blades have way too many serrations (ideally there would only be 2 or 3, still leaving plenty of plain edge). I only have 1 knife with serrations, the rest are all plain edge.

I might have a fluke, but my Benchmade 710 breaks those stupid little omega springs like crazy. I've sent it back to Benchmade and they break again within a few months. I've given up on it now, it's sitting in my closet somewhere with broken springs. I wish you could just buy new springs, they can't be all that hard to replace, but Benchmade insists that you send the knife back, pay shipping both ways and pay $10 for the service.

msstate56
03-15-09, 00:42
I like the modified sheepsfoot blade. It also has the spyderco thumbhole instead of the stud. I have been using it since Chritmas, and I have found it to be a very practical blade for everyday use.

madisonsfinest
03-15-09, 21:58
do you think the full size version would be good enough for cleaning a deer?

CLHC
03-15-09, 22:15
Just picked up the BM.555HG.MG this afternoon. It's the fourth one pictured in Post #2 by rob_s.

msstate56
03-16-09, 21:00
do you think the full size version would be good enough for cleaning a deer?

You can clean a deer with the mini-griptilian, so yes the large griptilian should be more than adequate for game cleaning. I find that blade sharpness has alot more to to with dressing game than the size of the blade.

madisonsfinest
03-16-09, 22:10
You can clean a deer with the mini-griptilian, so yes the large griptilian should be more than adequate for game cleaning. I find that blade sharpness has alot more to to with dressing game than the size of the blade.

Thanks

baffle Stack
03-20-09, 17:41
http://www.dougritter.com/dr_rsk_mk1.htm

I got this model after after much research on some blade forum. It has served me well. S30V holds a very sharp edge for a long time. :)

SeriousStudent
03-20-09, 22:58
http://www.dougritter.com/dr_rsk_mk1.htm

I got this model after after much research on some blade forum. It has served me well. S30V holds a very sharp edge for a long time. :)

The Ritter Mini-Grip in S30V is my fave of that particular line. I have also had very good luck with S30V steel.

Copis
03-25-09, 15:45
The Ritter Mini-Grip in S30V is my fave of that particular line. I have also had very good luck with S30V steel.


+1 on the Ritter mini grip