View Full Version : Ultimate Reliability for Colt 6920....
Razorhunter
01-01-07, 13:53
Gentlemen,
First off, I would like to say THANKS to the great founding members of this forum (whomever you may be), for creating such a great place, which I can already confirm is better than many of the other BS forums out there...
I'm proud to be here, and hope everyone doesn't mind me joining up, and getting a bit of help from the most knowledgeable persons here...
Anyhow, I have just purchased my very first M4, a Colt LE6920. I'm totally psyched to say the least.
I have no experience with AR's until now, but I have much experience with shooting and also shooting with iron sights.
Most importantly, I plan on buying as many quality mags (using HK right now) and ammo as I can afford, as well as all the range time I can get too.
I simply need to get to know the weapon.
NOW, my BIGGEST concern is with reliability, and I know that keeping the weapon clean and lubricated is priority #1.
SO, that brings me to the subject of mods to the weapon. This thread's purpose is to ask the more experienced persons on this forum for advice on what can be done to this 6920 to make it AS RELIABLE AS POSSIBLE????
I realize not all that much needs to be done, but I have heard of some who have sent their Colt to a gentleman named Ken at SAW (Specialized Armament ?) for his reliability package. Apparently it costs about $150-$200, and I have not yet logged on to his website to see what this pkg consists of. I will do this soon however.
I would like to ask you guys WHAT LIST of mods or part replacements, would you say could be/should be done to this 6920, in order to achieve ULTIMATE RELIABILITY????
Just a note, I do not plan on throwing on tons and tons of accessories onto this weapon. I simply plan to add what is needed. Below is a list of items I currently am thinking of adding..
1. Optic -BEST I can afford. Still not sure what to do here. WISH I could afford a Short Dot, but have heard the Nightforce 1-4x is a good choice too.???
2. Sling - STill not sure if I need a 2 or 3 point for general use???
3. BUIS's -Possibly Troy brand...
4. Possibly a vertical grip from TangoDown or Magpul.... or ???
Thanks guys for any help you could give.
As stated earlier, my NUMBER ONE GOAL is to make this weapon as reliable as ulitimately possible BEFORE I do ANY other mods....
Robb Jensen
01-01-07, 13:59
Welcome Razor,
The only thing I would add to a 6920 to increase reliability would be a Crane-0-ring on the extractor and follow Pat Rogers guide on cleaning and lubing. Other than that shoot it.
Later,
Robb
Jay Cunningham
01-01-07, 14:28
A brand new LE6920 is a wonderful thing.
It deserves to be fed good ammo - don't go cheap on this part. I like Federal XM193 and 55gr. FMJ American Eagle.
Buy a supply of good magazines (I recommend from CProducts or 44mag.com) and try them all out. The MagPul gen 2 follower is a good thing.
An extra bolt is a good idea too - G&R Tactical is a good resource for these.
Get some good lube and use it correctly, as per the Pat Rogers article.
A Crane o-ring or DFender around the extractor spring will go a long way.
Your carbine should be very relaibale and provide you with shooting bliss.
Heavy Metal
01-01-07, 14:48
Buy good mags, junk mags is the surest way to buy trouble with an AR.
Razorhunter
01-01-07, 14:53
Thanks guys,
This is JUST what I was looking for.
1. Can you guys tell me where is a good place to get this Crane-O-Ring?
2. Can you tell me what exactly a CraneORing does, and how it helps??
Robb Jensen
01-01-07, 14:54
You can get them from Grant at www.GandRtactical.com they multiply the pressure applied by the extractor spring.
Well the first post was right, there are some BS forums for sure.Heck, I just posted an experience on another forum and got chewed alive and burnt at the stake! Theres always a tough basturd somewhere who thinks he is anyhow.But that big talk:cool: doesnt mean doodly-squat to me, but I do like being among more rational folks.Hell, I am a corrections officer, I get enough of that Know-it-all crap from them.I want to relax on a forum.Thanks fellers, you rock!!!
Ken Elmore is the guy when it comes to building reliable LE6920's (actually all Colts). My agency buys all of our guns from Ken, and he isn't the cheapest guy in town. Our guns have been truely phenomenal as far as reliability goes.
Submariner
01-01-07, 18:55
Add the Crane O-ring and get a spare factory bolt. (Whose factory is your choice.)
If you want to learn to operate it reliably, take Dean Caputo's M16/AR15 Operator Diagnostics Class. (http://www.10-8forums.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=27643&an=0&page=0#27643) I took this class along with my two oldest children. You will never spend money better on your carbine. (ETA: This modifies your brain, not the carbine.)
Many can attest to Ken Elmore's Reliabilty Package. (http://www.specializedarmament.com/pages/shop_services.html) I suggest taking Dean's class first, though.
I have heard of some who have sent their Colt to a gentleman named Ken at SAW (Specialized Armament ?) for his reliability package. Apparently it costs about $150-$200, and I have not yet logged on to his website to see what this pkg consists of. I will do this soon however.
Last time I checked SAW keeps some of their reliability package a secret to protect their corner on that market.
1. Optic -BEST I can afford. Still not sure what to do here. WISH I could afford a Short Dot, but have heard the Nightforce 1-4x is a good choice too.???
I'd stick with an Aimpoint ML3 in a Larue mount, unless you have a strong astygmatism (I do) in which case I'd use a 1.5x Compact ACOG in a Larue mount.
2. Sling - STill not sure if I need a 2 or 3 point for general use???
2 point, and use either the Blue Force Gear Vickers or the VTAC Larue.
3. BUIS's -Possibly Troy brand...
Can't really go wrong there
4. Possibly a vertical grip from TangoDown or Magpul.... or ???
TD would work well.
...This modifies your brain, not the carbine.)...
So Sub, does yours (brain that is) run more reliably now? ;)
Razorhunter
01-01-07, 22:49
Just ordered the Crane O Ring, thanks guys.
As far as the SAW Reliability pkg goes, I would have to know what's being done to my rifle, in order to drop the $150. That's just how I am.
Here is a quote from Ken's website, which tells me that I'm sure some of us could determine WHAT is actually being done to the rifle...
Here is a quote that states what is being done to the rifle (not specific of course):
"4 to 6 barrel modifications (depending on barrel type)
3 gas system modifications
2 bolt group modifications
Buffer assembly and other lower receiver parts"
My only guesses would be the following:
Bolt Group Mods:
1. Crane O Ring/spring/extractor mod
4-6 Barrel Mods:
1. Polish M4 feedramps maybe?
Buffer Assembly Parts:
-Maybe a new buffer spring???
I'm a novice, so that would be the only guesses I've got...
Not trying to bust on Ken's game, but I'm a DIY kind of guy, and would love to find other things to do on my own for reliability...
I'm interested to hear what you guys think is actually done in this "Reliability Pkg"....
razorhunter,
It is my understanding that Ken Elmore does not use an O/X/D-ring. He does install an upgraded extractor spring made to his spec's. I'm sure that he also installs the proper extractor insert ("buffer") if required. I know that he does replace other springs in the weapon, but I'm not sure about the buffer spring.
I believe that he did replace the buffer in my carbine with one of a different weight.
I suspect that the gas-system mod's. include changing the gas port diameter in the barrel, which would necessitate removing the front-sight base (FSB) at a minimum. It is my understanding that he re-installs the FSB with a fixture that ensures it is not canted.
I also believe that as he goes though the weapon he corrects anything that was done improperly in the original assembly that might lead to issues later. As one of Colt's senior armorer instructors, Ken, like Dean Caputo mentioned above, knows from hard-earned experience what to look for.
All of this requires precious time of a highly-skilled/experienced individual. $150 is not an inconsequential sum to most of us, but I'm not shocked whenever I have to pay this much or more for routine tasks performed by an auto mechanic, plumber, electrician, etc. I feel better about paying someone like Ken Elmore for his time than I do some of those other guys. I consider it insurance or peace of mind. For a fun gun it's proabably not cost justifiable. For life insurance, however, I consider it a good investment.
If/when I am able to take Dean Caputo's class I may have a different opinion.
ETA: nyeti's recommendation of the LE6920 with Elmore's reliability package in another thread on another forum (no, not TOS) was instrumental in my decision.
About the only thing I would do to a 6920 is add a Crane O-Ring, H2 buffer and ISMI buffer spring.
Quality mags are a must. USGI mags are a good choice as are the CProducts SS mags with Magpul followers and CS springs.
I would also get a spare bolt to keep around.
C4
Submariner
01-02-07, 14:04
So Sub, does yours (brain that is) run more reliably now? ;)
My brain runs much more reliably after Dean's class which, in turn, makes the carbine run more reliably. Dean is the source of my sig line.:D
ETA:
About the only thing I would do to a 6920 is add a Crane O-Ring, H2 buffer and ISMI buffer spring.
Quality mags are a must. USGI mags are a good choice as are the CProducts SS mags with Magpul followers and CS springs.
I would also get a spare bolt to keep around.
C4
One stop shopping. See Grant!:D
If you go this route, please let me have first shot at your Colt H buffer and spring.:cool:
Reliabilty Package. (http://www.specializedarmament.com/pages/shop_services.html)
I've always heard good things about the SAW reliability package.
I've always heard good things about the SAW reliability package.
Funny, I always heard it was a waste of money.
How do you make a gun 110% reliable?
Funny, I always heard it was a waste of money.
How do you make a gun 110% reliable?
Milkman,
Exactly how many actual customers have told you that they regretted having gotten the SAW RP? Who stated that their carbine was 110% reliable?
Milkman,
Exactly how many actual customers have told you that they regretted having gotten the SAW RP? Who stated that their carbine was 110% reliable?
None publicly. I have shot a few Colt rifles with the SAW work and they functioned exactly like the bone stock Colt rifles shot at the same time. But then again, my M16s worked 100% as well.
No one is stating their rifle is 110% reliable, I asked because I am interested in how someone can make a 100% reliable rifle function more reliably.
Funny, I always heard it was a waste of money.
How do you make a gun 110% reliable?
I think there is room for improvement in all Stock AR's as they are still using cheap springs. I also like heavier buffers with my carbines and Crane O-Rings.
C4
I think there is room for improvement in all Stock AR's as they are still using cheap springs. I also like heavier buffers with my carbines and Crane O-Rings.
C4
I have owned a lot of ARs and M16s, have been issued quite a few, and have maintained an armory full and in that time I have never seen a failure in a Colt or FN that was spring related. Obviously in some applications extra tension springs are needed (Colt installs them OEM) but I have never seen a spring actually fail in a bone stock M4 or M16.
I have owned a lot of ARs and M16s, have been issued quite a few, and have maintained an armory full and in that time I have never seen a failure in a Colt or FN that was spring related. Obviously in some applications extra tension springs are needed (Colt installs them OEM) but I have never seen a spring actually fail in a bone stock M4 or M16.
A spring is never going to fail. The cheap springs simply do not keep their tension as long as a CS spring. That is all we are talking about. Using higher grade components to make the weapon that much more reliable.
C4
A spring is never going to fail. The cheap springs simply do not keep their tension as long as a CS spring. That is all we are talking about. Using higher grade components to make the weapon that much more reliable.
C4
If a spring loses its tension then it has failed.
Again, how do you make a firearm more than 100% reliable?
There is a point when you are just wasting your money...CS springs and Torx bolts readily come to mind.
If a spring loses its tension then it has failed.
Again, how do you make a firearm more than 100% reliable?
There is a point when you are just wasting your money...CS springs and Torx bolts readily come to mind.
Not exactly. Springs wear out. Each time they go through a compression and rebound cycle, they lose their "springiness", i.e., they lose comperssion and rebound capability. Conventional springs exhibit this quite a bit. Chrome silicon springs don't wear as quickly, they can tolerate many more compression and rebound cycles without wearing.
If you really want to see this first hand, purchase two conventional springs and two CS springs. Run the conventional spring for 4-5K rounds or so and then remove it. Compare the uncompressed height against the one you scarfed away earlier.
Then do the same for the CS springs. See which one is shorter.
I don't know if it's a good rule of thumb or not, but I've heard once a spring loses 2-3 coils of stack height, replace it with a new one. Anyone else heard this or care to comment if it's a good rule of thumb?
If a spring loses its tension then it has failed.
Again, how do you make a firearm more than 100% reliable?
There is a point when you are just wasting your money...CS springs and Torx bolts readily come to mind.
I have never seen a spring so spent that it had zero tension in it. What happens is that it lacks the power to strip a round off a fully loaded mag. So technically the spring still works, it just cannot strip a round off a mag.
I do not believe that any AR is 100% reliable. If you do believe that, you need to shoot more I think (as malfunctions occur all the time).
There are certain weak points in the AR system (extractor inserts, springs, magazines, magazine followers and springs). By using high grade parts in these key areas, you are going a long way to making the weapon more reliable.
If you doubt that CS springs offer a much higher durability, I would suggest you do some research in metallurgy so that you can understand what the benefits are of SS springs.
As far as the TORX bolts go, these again are a higher grade of bolt. By using these heat treated, aircraft certified bolts, you will enable yourself to put more torque on the bolts and be able to remove them IF the carrier key ever becomes damaged or needs replaced. The reason is that upon staking, the Torx bolts do not cave in like the normal bolts do. Once this has happened you will never get them out.
C4
Robb Jensen
01-03-07, 10:14
Everything has a 'service life'. Everything will fail eventually, this is a fact. Using excellent components and replacing springs etc regularly reduces the probability that they will fail when they're needed most.
Milkman,
Regardless of how many ARs/M16s you've been issued/borrowed/picked up on the battlefield/used in video games. If you haven't seen an extractor, ejector and or buffer spring 'fail' on an AR then you need to get out to the range A LOT MORE OFTEN. I wear out one or two of those springs each and EVERY year.
Spring Failure = failure to make the parts work correctly and/or breakage, 99.99% of these springs just get too weak with use.
Milkman has been banned for being non other than Nitrox (who was banned some time ago). M4C does not tolerate users with multi screen names, especially when there were already banned.
I dont think I've even seen a spring FAIL -- I've seen them get sloppy and not work well -- but I dont consider that failing specifically -- since I leave that term for parts that shit the bed and really piss me off.
I try to replace the springs in my gun on a regular basis so I dont have these problems.
I try to make it a policy only to run CProducts SS mags -- or HK mags if they are given to me free ;)
Proper maintenance and replacement of parts with quality parts at a scheduled period will keep the M16FOW running along nicely.
Submariner
01-03-07, 13:19
I try to replace the springs in my gun on a regular basis so I dont have these problems.
...
Proper maintenance and replacement of parts with quality parts at a scheduled period will keep the M16FOW running along nicely.
The key is knowing when to replace each one. How did you come up with your schedule?
Basically anytime I get near 5k rounds I swap stuff for new stuff.
I dont usually swap bolts till they spit a lug though (since most will keep going with one missing). But on 14.5's and shorters -- they go at the 4-5k mark.
The only lower I have not swapped fire control spring on is my RO934 (5.56mm - -- I drifted the 9mm block out) since it has a KAC F/A match trigger and I want to see how long it lasts -- its over 20k now though...
The key is knowing when to replace each one. How did you come up with your schedule?
I follow a similar schedule as Kevin (4-5K). My number is based on a spring manufacturers life span estimation of service life. So far it appears to be right on.
C4
Razorhunter
01-03-07, 15:31
You can get them from Grant at www.GandRtactical.com they multiply the pressure applied by the extractor spring.
Guys,
Why is the Crane O Ring used to stiffen the extractor spring, as opposed to simply a better, more stiff spring???
Basically anytime I get near 5k rounds I swap stuff for new stuff.
I dont usually swap bolts till they spit a lug though (since most will keep going with one missing). But on 14.5's and shorters -- they go at the 4-5k mark.
I have to agree with Kevin. My latest LMT 10.5" started to have some issues recently with around 5K through it. I replaced the old "Crane-Kit" with a new one and the problems went away.
Thankfully I discovered the "issues" on the range. I will be watching my round counts closer and start doing more preventive maintenance from now on. As Kevin stated, everything goes tits up faster with the shorter barrels.
Guys,
Why is the Crane O Ring used to make the stiffen the extractor spring, as opposed to simply a better, more stiff spring???
You can go that route as well.
C4
Razorhunter
01-05-07, 21:57
Just received my Crane O Ring last night.
Has anyone got a link to detailed instructions on how to install the parts?
I see there are THREE total parts. A tiny spring, an O ring, and a little black rubber "pin" about 1/8" long.
One question that comes to mind:
-Are these THREE parts REPLACEMENT parts (meaning some OEM parts will be removed), or are they ADDITIONAL parts to be added?
I could probably figure it out by looking at my BCG, but before I go throwing new parts into an M4, I'd like to first see if there is a thread dealing with this. I'd love to read up, as I'd also like to know exactly what function each part performs, if anyone has a link...
In the meantime, I'll search some "MO"...
Thanks to C4IGrant for the FAST shipping and his excellent posts on the forum... More business headed your way...
Just replace your existing spring and blue insert with the HD spring and black insert. Then slip the O-ring over the spring ans reassemble.
These three parts replace the usual two parts already on your extractor system. Because of the shorter barrel on your carbine, you can have extraction issues. Lots of good info already here on this so I won't go into all the technical details. So the original spring and insert were replaced with beefed-up models, and a special o-ring added that further enhances reliability. This is generally referred to as the extraction reliability package or just reliability package.
Here's what I'd do to a new colt:
-HD extractor spring and insert, w/ Crane o-ring
-Check the keyway and re-stake if required
-H-2 buffer w/IMSI spring
-Vickers 2-point sling
-C Products SS mags
-Black Hills ammo
-Slip 2000 lube
-GI cleaning kit
-spare parts kit (complete bolt, cam, firing pin, FP retaining pin, etc.)
-basic tools
-armorer's manual
-hard/soft case
This is the basic package. Go out and shoot 1,000 rds through it. This will shake out any problems with your system.
After this, comes an optic. I would look at Aimpoint or EOTech for a carbine. The short dot or other high-end optics might be better suited for a SPR. Add a good BUIS.
Then come other features, such as a rail to mount lights or fore grips as required, and other butt-stocks if desired.
For what its worth, my agency issues the L/E 6920, and many officers purchase their own individually. We get them from SAW. We spec the SAW magazine modifications of a red SAW HD spring and green follower. We also use the HD SAW extractor springs, and the guns run at a exceptional level of reliability (especially the issue guns that are very abused). This is consistant with what others are doing with the Crane upgrade and CP magaiznes. The LE 6920's probably don't need the full 150.00 package as much as some of the other guns in the line, or the older weapons that could use some extra attention. The trend here is simply that springs in critical parts are the biggest reliability factors.
I always get a kick out of guys like Milkman and others who seem to know more than the guy who is on the road most of the year teaching L/E and military units how to keep the Colt system running for Colt, yet he is ridiculed at TOS and no longer posts on forums................yep, Ken Elmore doesn't know what he's talking about:rolleyes: .
For what its worth, my agency issues the L/E 6920, and many officers purchase their own individually. We get them from SAW. We spec the SAW magazine modifications of a red SAW HD spring and green follower. We also use the HD SAW extractor springs, and the guns run at a exceptional level of reliability (especially the issue guns that are very abused). This is consistant with what others are doing with the Crane upgrade and CP magaiznes. The LE 6920's probably don't need the full 150.00 package as much as some of the other guns in the line, or the older weapons that could use some extra attention. The trend here is simply that springs in critical parts are the biggest reliability factors.
I always get a kick out of guys like Milkman and others who seem to know more than the guy who is on the road most of the year teaching L/E and military units how to keep the Colt system running for Colt, yet he is ridiculed at TOS and no longer posts on forums................yep, Ken Elmore doesn't know what he's talking about:rolleyes: .
Agree about Milkman (Nitrox/Ian187). He apparently knows more than just about everyone.
C4
Agree about Milkman (Nitrox/Ian187). He apparently knows more than just about everyone.
:eek:
:eek:
Yep, my old buddy from TOS.
C4
Not exactly. Springs wear out. Each time they go through a compression and rebound cycle, they lose their "springiness", i.e., they lose comperssion and rebound capability. Conventional springs exhibit this quite a bit. Chrome silicon springs don't wear as quickly, they can tolerate many more compression and rebound cycles without wearing.
If you really want to see this first hand, purchase two conventional springs and two CS springs. Run the conventional spring for 4-5K rounds or so and then remove it. Compare the uncompressed height against the one you scarfed away earlier.
Then do the same for the CS springs. See which one is shorter.
I don't know if it's a good rule of thumb or not, but I've heard once a spring loses 2-3 coils of stack height, replace it with a new one. Anyone else heard this or care to comment if it's a good rule of thumb?
Are you talking about buffer springs or extractor springs now? 2-3 coils is half of the height of my extractor spring or more. I can imagine this on a buffer spring though...
Are you talking about buffer springs or extractor springs now? 2-3 coils is half of the height of my extractor spring or more. I can imagine this on a buffer spring though...
Buffer spring.
Subsequent to my post Submariner posted an extract from a Mil manual that specified heights. His height range may equate to 2-3 coils, not sure, but it's a heck of a lot easier to just measure height against a published "go, no-go" standard.
From the different thread, thanks again Submariner:
Better than a Rule of Thumb.
Action spring............................................Free length of spring shall be between 11-3/4 and 13-1/2 inches (29.84
and 34.29 cm) M16A2 ONLY and 10-1/16 and 11-1/4 inches (25.56 and 28.58 cm) M4/M4A1 ONLY.
ARMY TM 9-1005-319-23&P p.3-102 Change 4
Razorhunter
01-07-07, 12:45
These three parts replace the usual two parts already on your extractor system. Because of the shorter barrel on your carbine, you can have extraction issues. Lots of good info already here on this so I won't go into all the technical details. So the original spring and insert were replaced with beefed-up models, and a special o-ring added that further enhances reliability. This is generally referred to as the extraction reliability package or just reliability package.
Here's what I'd do to a new colt:
-HD extractor spring and insert, w/ Crane o-ring
-Check the keyway and re-stake if required
-H-2 buffer w/IMSI spring
-Vickers 2-point sling
-C Products SS mags
-Black Hills ammo
-Slip 2000 lube
-GI cleaning kit
-spare parts kit (complete bolt, cam, firing pin, FP retaining pin, etc.)
-basic tools
-armorer's manual
-hard/soft case
This is the basic package. Go out and shoot 1,000 rds through it. This will shake out any problems with your system.
After this, comes an optic. I would look at Aimpoint or EOTech for a carbine. The short dot or other high-end optics might be better suited for a SPR. Add a good BUIS.
Then come other features, such as a rail to mount lights or fore grips as required, and other butt-stocks if desired.
Hey Diz,
I'm just now noticing this post for some reason. SO GLAD you posted it though, as I'm pleased to see that almost everything you have listed, I have either done, or am planning to do. Colt's job of staking seems to be good. I'm assuming that "staking the keyway" refers to the two SHCS's (Socket Head Cap Screws) on top of the BCG?? If this is correct, then mine look great. If this is incorrect, then I'd like to figure out what other "staking" job it is that I need to check?
I've even ordered the Slip 2000 lube already, which I've read is excellent.
Anyhow, in regards to the cleaning kit. I've only got the steel rods that Colt supplied with the weapon, and I was thinking of ordering some Dewey (or other??) brand cleaning rods and a rod guid to protect the inside of the barrel. However, I'm not so sure if I need the 36" or the longer set, and I'm also trying to figure out which cleaning rod GUIDE to order???
I have seen a Stoney Point rod guide in the catalogs, as well as something from Sinclair, which is just a little white block of Delrin, which is some type of guide, but I'm not so sure if this is what I'll need.
Basically, I'm trying to piece together, an excellent cleaning kit, which will NEVER in any way possibly damage the bore... As you can tell, I like going the extra mile, for added insurance...
Thanks for all the wonderful posts guys.
I'm drilling bullseyes out to 200 yards with the iron sights when using a bench rest.... Sure is hard to see the bullseyes with iron sights though. Definitely need an optic soon...
Sinclair is very good stuff. Dewey rods are good, Bore Tech's are better.
I'd recommend getting some type of cradle, then a cleaning link to hold the upper open, a bore guide, a good single-piece rod (ask the vendor about length -- you'll need a long enough rod to extend from the back of your bore guide out to the end of the muzzle far enough for any rod attachments (jags, brushes) to completely clear you muzzle device).
A chamber brush is a must. Grant's chamber stars or Sinclair's chamber cleaning tool are nice convenience items to have on hand -- they really simplify cleaning out the barrel extension area.
Razorhunter
01-07-07, 20:58
Hey Jmart,
I just checked out the Bore Tech cleaning rods online. I just might place an order tomorrow.
Do you use the Stainless Steel rods, or the regular Bore Stix rods???
Just curious.
I use the coated one. I also use a nylon stop that just screws into the shaft by friction. The rod I got was probably a bit longer than needed, so with the stop adjusted correctly the rod will go into the guide only so far and stop just when the jag exits the muzzle. Not absolutely necessary, but a nice convenience feature.
If you are getting your stuff from Sinclair, recommend you also get the cleaning link, the upper receiver brush, a lug cleaning tool and the little plastic compartmented flip-top box that holds all your jags, mops, chamber brushes and cleaning link. Again, a pure convenience item but worth it IMHO. You'll also need a cleaning cradle to hold everything steady while cleaning. I just use the cheapie MTM model.
Razorhunter
01-11-07, 21:25
Well guys,
I did my first Crane O Ring install tonight. I want to take a minute to explain my findings and see what you guys think.
First off, before I did ANYTHING, I checked the extraction of my new Colt 6920, by simply taking rounds and feeding them through the system, by pulling back on the charging handle. I would simply visually observe how the extractor threw the shells out of the gun, and I could actually manage to pull back on the charging handle kind of slowly, and the shells would extract just fine. Of course, there is a point, where you can go TOO slow, and that can cause a minor jam. However, please note, that I could go quite slowly and still get them to properly eject.
NOW, I took the BCG apart, and noticed the stock extractor spring was snapped down into its hole pretty tightly, and it took considerable fingernail prying pressure to remove it.
I was scratching my head, wondering IF the tiny little extractor springs are supposed to be of a larger diameter at one end than the other??? (I'm still wondering). I mean, it just kind of looked like one end of the springs were slightly larger than the other end, but this is not confirmed yet. ????
Finally, I stuck the new little black rubber pin inside the new spring from G R Tactical and attempted to install it in the extractor spring hole. It did not really "snap" in, as the stock Colt spring did, but it did seem to stay in there.
I then put the O Ring around it, and closed it back up and installed everything back as one should.
I then proceeded to check the system, just as I had BEFORE I started.
ONLY difference is that now it seems that I am NOT able to pull the charging handle back AS SLOWLY AS before, and still get the same quality extraction.
Sometimes there is a slight jam, that seems to happen ONLY when the CH is pulled back slowly I think, and I'm HOPING this is due to the fact that the new Crane O Ring, is forcing the extractor to grip the shell a bit more tightly, therefore making the gun jam a bit, when the CH is pulled back slowly...
What do you guys think about my theory???
I'm just curious as to whether or not this is actually due to the fact that the new Crane O Ring setup, is actually HOLDING the shell TIGHTER, and more firmly, which could possibly be the reason for the jam I get at a slow CH pull rate now???? In other words, I may have done everything correct, but the new Crane O Ring and LMT spring are holding much tighter...???
At least I hope this is what's actually happening!!
-Does anyone else observe, and take notice of these little instances as I do?????
Heavy Metal
01-12-07, 23:29
One end of the spring is larger. Put it in the extractor large end first and squeeze it between the extractor and ha hard surface until you feel it 'snap' in place.
I would leave it alone. Colt rifles are reliable right out of the box. The 6920 is one of the best models Colt has ever produced and does not require aftermarket upgrades. Just maintain it properly and replace worn parts as needed (usually only after several thousand rounds).
Replace the stock extractor o-ring with a Crane or D-Fender if it makes you feel better.
Jay Cunningham
05-09-10, 14:34
I am wondering if you realize this thread died almost 3.5 years ago?
no matter what you do to your AR or any weapon for that matter it will NEVER be 100%. it is a mechanical device and you can not expect perfection. Near perfection yes but total no. The best I can say is leave your rifle the way it came shoot it for a while and based on what you find from shooting it decide what to change. I have a bunch of 1911's for example and many mods considered standard or essential to the clasic 1911 I find no need for. One guys/girls essential mod the next shooter may look upon as useless. Remember if it works refrain from "repairs".
I have seen perfectly functional guns ruined or degraded in performance by people isisting on "improving" them.
good advice to put you money in quality mags and ammo
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