View Full Version : Which aftermarket Glock sights and trigger mods?
Chris17404
06-04-09, 19:55
Hello everyone,
I carry a stock Glock 19 with Meprolight 3-dot night sights. in the appendix position. I'd like to improve my sight picture and also the trigger quality.
The 3-dot sighting system really confuses my eyes. I hate it. I tend to focus on the rear sights more than the front sight! :eek: I'd like to get a new set of sights that have a single dot in the front and no dots in the rear. The two top contenders right now seem to be the Warren tactical sights and the Heinie Straight-8's. What are your thoughts on these for carry? What other sights would you recommend that fit my criteria?
The standard Glock trigger is ok. I am happy with the reset and overall length. But I'd like to significantly lessen the dramatic increase in pull weight at the end when it hits the connector. I'd prefer a smoother, "all one weight" pull right up till the trigger breaks. If that requires the pull to be a bit heavier, that's fine. I'd also like the break to be more crisp. Again, I'm fine with the reset length. Overtravel is ok, but if it could be improved, that would be great too. Again, this is a carry gun, so it needs to be 100% reliable. What aftermarket trigger parts would you recommend? I hear good things about the Ghost triggers like the "Rocket". Any opinions on this one? What other options do I have that would achieve a trigger pull like I'm describing?
Thanks for your time and sharing of your knowledge.
Chris
NY1 trigger spring with a 3.5 connector (i prefer ghost) for your trigger
warren tactical sights....
that package is exactly what you are asking for....
Robb Jensen
06-04-09, 20:59
A Glock NY1 and 3.5lb connector and Warren 2 dot sights or even faster Warren 'mix' sights (night sight front, plain black rear).
For those that subscribe to the "Don't shoot to reset" bullshit I say "Bring it, don't sing it". Bring a non-resetting trigger like a SIG P250 or Kahr and my Glock 17, My STI and my M&P Pro and lets shoot a plate rack and see which is faster, my time with both and your times with both.......essentially "put up or shut up".
For those that subscribe to the "Don't shoot to reset" bullshit I say "Bring it, don't sing it". Bring a non-resetting trigger like a SIG P250 or Kahr and my Glock 17, My STI and my M&P Pro and lets shoot a plate rack and see which is faster, my time with both and your times with both.......essentially "put up or shut up".
i firmly believe this is the reason rumors are starting to pop up that Sig is considering a striker fired variant of the P250.....(and my guess is they are exactly that....rumors)
granted I'm a novice shooter at best, but I short stroked the hell out of the P250 trigger....
I can't comment on triggers, as I am still kind of in the dark/ not too bothered with that yet (soon). But for sights I can recommend Warrens. I had always had 3 dot sights and wanted to try something new and get a single front/rear lamp set up. Due to availability(and my own impatience) I got the traditional single front double rear set up and am beyond impressed (Thanks VA arms co.!). The rear lamps are yellow and a bit dimmer than the front. And for day light shooting the front sight has a nice white ring around it where the rear does not and I don't notice the rear lamps at all. I like these sights alot, they work really well for me and my shooting has made a noticeable improvement.
I like straight 8s, glock 3.5 connector as a combo for your specs. Something else to consider is putting a G17 trigger & bar in for a smooth faced trigger if you prefer a smooth trigger face to the stock grooved 19s.
Give the Ameriglo Pro glo front sight a try. I have one, and another on order. It has a bright tritium dot with orange "glow" paint around it. The orange really helps pick up the front sight, and it is recessed so it won't scratch off. You can charge the glow paint with a flashlight and you have a glowing front sight instead of just a dot (the tritium always glows of course). I used to paint my front sights orange, but this is a better, more permanent solution.
For the rear, try an Ameriglo combat rear. You end up with a .140 front and a .200wide rear which makes them very easy to pick up quickly.
Best of all that package will only run you about $75 plus shipping. I purchase mine direct from Ameriglo, and they have excellent customer service.
keysersoze
06-05-09, 02:37
I had a Lightning Strike Trigger on my Glock 19. Loved it. :D
If I were to carry a Glock, I'd set it up with a factory 3.5 connector, NY1 trigger spring, and Warren 2-dot night sights.
The trigger combination gives me a reasonable weight with strong reset. I'm sure there are finer tweaks that could be made, but in my experience a lot of people worry about tiny differences in overtravel, etc., that they can only notice when dry firing. Put them on a clock with a stock gun vs. a tweaked gun and the results are the same. So why spend the money?
The sight combination provides the best sight picture under the widest range of lighting conditions.
For those that subscribe to the "Don't shoot to reset" bullshit I say "Bring it, don't sing it". Bring a non-resetting trigger like a SIG P250 or Kahr and my Glock 17, My STI and my M&P Pro and lets shoot a plate rack and see which is faster, my time with both and your times with both.......essentially "put up or shut up".
Could you explain this a little more? I understand the technical difference in the guns (how far forward the trigger has to go to reset), but in terms of trigger control technique - what are you advocating?
I've always been taught to let the trigger ride forward and reset immediately after each shot (rather than keeping it pressed back). Some folks have taught me to let it go only to the reset point, others have taught me to let the trigger go all the way forward (but keep my finger in contact with the trigger) and then repeat my normal trigger press, taking up the slack and then smoothly squeezing through the final break. I seem to shoot much more consistently with the latter technique.
thopkins22
06-05-09, 10:41
If I were to carry a Glock, I'd set it up with a factory 3.5 connector, NY1 trigger spring...
As someone who's considering this combination, will it make the "second stage" feel like it's breaking easier? I realize that overall trigger weight is often overrated in terms of shooting ease, so that doesn't concern me.
That trigger combo comes up way too frequently to be ignored. Being just under $20 in parts I ordered them up to figure it out for myself.
As someone who's considering this combination, will it make the "second stage" feel like it's breaking easier? I realize that overall trigger weight is often overrated in terms of shooting ease, so that doesn't concern me.
Compared to a standard (5.5# connector & coil spring) Glock trigger, you're:
increasing the resistance in the trigger pull from the rest position to the break, because you are now overcoming a stronger spring.
decreasing the amount of extra force that needs to be applied at the breaking point, because you've only got the 3.5# connector in the gun.
thopkins22
06-05-09, 23:05
increasing the resistance in the trigger pull from the rest position to the break, because you are now overcoming a stronger spring.Not a concern. In fact I think this could be a good thing.
decreasing the amount of extra force that needs to be applied at the breaking point, because you've only got the 3.5# connector in the gun.Exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks Todd.
Where's the best place to buy OEM parts for Glock? I've read the glock sticky, but some of the sites aren't very clear as to what's OEM and what isn't.
Of all the places I have looked, I recall Midway being cheapest for OEM glock parts. I do not think they had the OEM 3.5 connector though, which seems to be much more expensive than other quality connectors on the other sites. I ended up buying on lonewolf because they had the connector I wanted
http://www.midwayusa.com/browse/BrowseCategories.aspx?tabId=9&categoryId=9140&categoryString=10636***10560***
Not a concern. In fact I think this could be a good thing.
I've always been of the opinion that greater & earlier tactile feedback from the trigger is useful both in terms of shooting & safety.
Exactly what I'm looking for.
As others have pointed out, the nice thing about the 3.5/NY combo is that it's inexpensive and easy to install yourself. So you can try it and if it's not what you're looking for, you haven't lost anything.
calebgriffin31
06-07-09, 11:54
This is a great thread. I love the little cheap things that make guns run better. Who seems to have the best price on the Warren sights?
I know I'm in the minority here, but after installing a NY1 in one of my Glocks with the stock 5.5 connector, I liked the trigger so much that I put the same set-up in the rest of them. I actually wanted to keep the trigger a little heavier, and the firm resistence from beginning to end of the stroke both feels great and makes me more likely to carry them in a soft sided belly band (which I use a lot).
The fact that the NY1 has a rep for being almost indestructable is just iceing on the cake.
We all have different needs and/or preferences and this set-up pleases ME.
Skip
well I got my trigger parts from lone wolf (NY1 and ghost 3.5# connector) and installed them today. I have to say it couldn't be much simpler. Grand total time was about 20 minutes which includes a couple minutes spent cleaning some of the residue in the usually hard to get places. This was also the first time I detail stripped a glock frame, so I went a bit slow and read stuff twice before doing anything. I am probably a hair above average mechanical apptitude. and the only tools needed (used) were
-Glock tool (or 3/32 punch)
-one of those little pocket promo screw drivers
-directions for disassembly (bootleg 2002 glock armorers manual)
-1 can of Milwaukee best light beer (can be substituted with quality beer, water or applejuice in sippy cup)
The total for parts was $17.44 with shipping was $24.24.
Trigger feels great, cant wait to try it out, hopefully soon...like in an hour (fingers crossed)
1 thing to be (possibly) prepared for is that disassembly is not quite the snap it was before. The trigger no longer stays to the rear after it has been pulled, it rebounds foward a bit, I am guessing part of the superior reset I have heard about. Now once I have unlocked the slide I have to depress the trigger again to get the slide to come foward. I think I have read about this side effect before, but other than that function is fine.
the_fallguy
06-09-09, 14:29
I really like the ghost rocket with the NY1 trigger return spring. The over travel stop makes a huge difference for me. Try one out if you ever get the chance to.
I am a big fan of the Ameriglo sights. A .125 width front tritium sight coupled with a plain rear sight (you can get a .150, .180 or .200 rear notch width depending on your preference) would do exactly what you want. If you type "GSSF" as the coupon code it runs a whopping $48 before shipping. Just something to consider if money is a little tight.
dirksterg30
06-09-09, 15:44
Hello everyone,
I carry a stock Glock 19 with Meprolight 3-dot night sights. in the appendix position. I'd like to improve my sight picture and also the trigger quality.
The 3-dot sighting system really confuses my eyes. I hate it. I tend to focus on the rear sights more than the front sight! :eek: I'd like to get a new set of sights that have a single dot in the front and no dots in the rear. The two top contenders right now seem to be the Warren tactical sights and the Heinie Straight-8's. What are your thoughts on these for carry? What other sights would you recommend that fit my criteria?
Chris, I have the same problem with traditional 3-dot sights, and I've found the Ameriglo Operators to work very well:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/dirksterg30/M%20and%20Ps/MP9cwithAmerigloOperators.jpg
matthewdanger
06-09-09, 15:49
Warren Tac two dot sights are excellent. I have also had great luck with the Ameriglo Operators.
I also run the NY-1/3.5# connector set up in all my Glocks and I have for several years now. I won't rehash what others have said about the reset and how well this set up works. I will say that it makes sense from a durability standpoint as well. I had a G23 that broke 2 of the standard trigger springs (the break happened at the spring arm where it is connected to the trigger bar). This happened twice in a fairly small number of rounds. The NY-1 module solved the problem for me.
So what advantage will I gain by saving $35 or so and going with the plain rear?
This comes down to a matter of personal preference and, moreso IMO, priorities.
The cleaner your rear sight, the less it can distract you while shooting. Most folks find going from two big outlined rear dots to a single smaller dot with no outline an adequate change. Others believe that they shoot better with nothing on the rear sight.
The downside, however, is that there are some lighting conditions in which having just the front dot won't be adequate. If you play around in enough variable lighting environments you'll find situations where the front dot alone isn't providing the amount of feedback you want to make a half-accurate shot.
The front-only solution tends to be favored by competitive shooters, while the 2-dot solution tends to be favored by folks who've done a lot of work in realistic low-light situations (as opposed to the usually all-or-nothing lighting of most training and competition venues). Ironically, the incident that drove this home for me was shooting the S&W Winter Championship. Two years in a row I showed up with front-only night sights and they had stages where the lighting conditions just didn't work well for me using that system.
Chris17404
06-09-09, 16:19
Thanks for all the great information, everyone. I appreciate it.
I will be ordering some of the Warren Tactical 2-dot sights for my G19. Where would you recommend I purchase them?
Also... which type of 3.5lb connector do you recommend? A stock one, or perhaps one that's already been smoothed/customized like the Custom Glock Racing version or Lone Wolf one? Ghost?
Let me know. Thanks!
Chris
^^^ I've ordered the Ghost for mine along with the NY-1.
I don't favor many mod's on my carry Glocks. I have started using 10-8 Glock sights on my carry guns. Plain rears tritium fronts. The only other two modifications are skate board tape or stipling with a heat gun and Larry Vicker's extended magazine release. The only 9mm glocks I have seen give people problems are modified ones. Ie lightened firing pins etc...
Thanks for your help, Todd, I just placed an order for the Warren 2 dots from SKD.
Also, what are your thoughts on the slide stop lever from a 34 or 35 to replace the factory lever on a 19?
I don't favor many mod's on my carry Glocks. I have started using 10-8 Glock sights on my carry guns. Plain rears tritium fronts. The only other two modifications are skate board tape or stipling with a heat gun and Larry Vicker's extended magazine release. The only 9mm glocks I have seen give people problems are modified ones. Ie lightened firing pins etc...
Apropos lightened firing pin strikes, is there a specific mod. that you are thinking about? I haven't heard people complain of light strikes from the NY1 and the 3.5# connector, but then again, I don't get out much.
Also, what would be the most robust, bullet proof, 3.5# connector on the market that still gives one the desired effect.
Lastly, please forgive me for bringing this up, and if it isn't appropriate for this thread, please ignore it, but from a liability point of view, do any of you worry about using a modified trigger set up, especially with a lighter connector (even though I understand the overall weight of the trigger pull using a 3.5# connector is not anywhere near 3.5#, but I guess more around 4.5# or so, no to mention the added pull weight with the NY1 spring). Reason I bring it up is that I just read some strong opinions on keeping carry guns with the stock 5.5# connector +/- the NY1 spring.
Also, what are your thoughts on the slide stop lever from a 34 or 35 to replace the factory lever on a 19?
A lot of agencies get the "extended" slide stop lever as standard, and I'd recommend it unless it leads to you riding the lever and preventing the gun from locking back when empty.
but from a liability point of view, do any of you worry about using a modified trigger set up,
From a legal liability standpoint, no.
From a practical "safety under extreme duress" standpoint, I don't want my trigger pull to be too light.
I am not your attorney and this is not legal advice.
I ordered the lone wolf 3.5 connector, NY-1 trigger and extended slide stop from Midway, so we'll see how it goes. I've always used the standard 5.5 trigger so this will be a new experience for me. The only other one I've tried was the NY-2 trigger on a Glock 22 that I bought off my old partner. Neither one of us knew it was in there until a gunsmith switched it out for me, which might explain why my partner couldn't hit the broadside of a barn with it. According to the 'smith, it gave the gun a 12 lb. pull?
I don't want my trigger pull to be too light.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the NY1+3.5# connector set up gives an overall pull of around 6 lbs or so, yes?
calebgriffin31
06-10-09, 17:01
Do you guys swap these parts out yourselves or do you send it to the smith? If you swap it out yourselves, any hints and or diagrams?? Thanks
dirksterg30
06-10-09, 19:45
Do you guys swap these parts out yourselves or do you send it to the smith? If you swap it out yourselves, any hints and or diagrams?? Thanks
A Glock is one of the easiest guns to work on yourself. The only thing I would take it to a gunsmith for is having night sights installed.
Step by step instructions:
http://www.parts.cc/glock/disassembly/
A Good video on detail stripping a Glock
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CN1QJDGinwE
calebgriffin31
06-10-09, 20:59
Awesome Dirk, That is what I was looking for. Thanks
calebgriffin31
06-10-09, 22:12
ok one more thing, now that I have it all apart, I am not seeing anything that looks like the Ny1 spring that I have sitting here from Midway. I can't seem to find anything on the installation of it either.. Any help? TIA..
ok one more thing, now that I have it all apart, I am not seeing anything that looks like the Ny1 spring that I have sitting here from Midway. I can't seem to find anything on the installation of it either.. Any help? TIA..
http://homepage.mac.com/carver/images/ny1ts.jpg
I was looking at one of those glock armorer books while in a gunsmith's shop and it stated that a NY1 spring is intended for a 5.5 lb connector only and not recommended with a 3.5# one. Is there a practical reason why Glock has this position?
Also are all ghost connectors drop in? I was told that the recon is a fitted part.
Robb Jensen
06-13-09, 18:13
I was looking at one of those glock armorer books while in a gunsmith's shop and it stated that a NY1 spring is intended for a 5.5 lb connector only and not recommended with a 3.5# one. Is there a practical reason why Glock has this position?
Also are all ghost connectors drop in? I was told that the recon is a fitted part.
The NY1 works with the 3.5lb connector and 5lb connector just fine. Why they give a warning is so that you don't use it with a 8lb connector. If you do the trigger may not reset, no amount of immediate action will get it back working If that happens you now have a 22oz weight.
The reason they don't mention the 3.5lb connectors is because Glock doesn't officially sell them.
The NY1 works with the 3.5lb connector and 5lb connector just fine. Why they give a warning is so that you don't use it with a 8lb connector. If you do the trigger may not reset, no amount of immediate action will get it back working If that happens you now have a 22oz weight.
The reason they don't mention the 3.5lb connectors is because Glock doesn't officially sell them.
got it, thanks for the info
p.s. I called the Ghost Rocket connector, the Ghost "Recon", in my previous post by mistake, and checking on Ghost's website shows that the Rocket does require minor fitting (but I'm sure you guys already knew that)
the1911fan
06-14-09, 09:33
Just put a 3.5 connector in my new 21SF and the trigger pull went from
6 Lbs. 8 Oz.'s to 5 Lbs. 6 Oz.'s. and that is dependant on where you index the trigger when pressing it
My M&P 45 with the Pro Sear went from 7 Lbs. to 5 Lbs. no matter where you index on the press (unless you're way high on the trigger)
just tried the 3.5 with the NY1 combo and did not like it a bit, took it right out..the NY1 connector was taken out..I kept the 3.5 with the stock spring
I've got a line on a decently priced Glock 30, has anyone run these mods in one, and are the benefits the same?
So I dropped my parts off at the gunsmith I go through, and he just called me before he started the work to make sure I wanted to do it, said the combo will give me a 12 lbs. pull? I told him to go ahead and do it. Anyone have any info on this?
So I dropped my parts off at the gunsmith I go through, and he just called me before he started the work to make sure I wanted to do it, said the combo will give me a 12 lbs. pull? I told him to go ahead and do it. Anyone have any info on this?
Yes. Either you gave him the wrong parts, your gunsmith is a lousy gunsmith, or your gunsmith failed second grade math.
I hope I'm right but I told him the lighter connector evens out the pull and makes it more consistent. I think he was just looking at the weight that the NY1 makes it on its own. I thought the NY2 trigger was the 12lb one though?
ETA: He's also an old guy who thinks that if John Browning didn't design it you shouldn't be carrying it, so that might be part of the issue as well.
MSP "Sarge"
06-20-09, 21:08
I went to the Ghost site and saw that they offer an "Ultimate 3.5# Connector". Does it do the same job as the plain Ghost 3.5#?
I installed a trijicon front night sight and swapped out the factory NY1 plastic thing for a regular glock trigger spring, and installed a 3.5# connector. Also have a vickers mag release, nothing follows.
the1911fan
06-21-09, 10:15
ETA: He's also an old guy who thinks that if John Browning didn't design it you shouldn't be carrying it, so that might be part of the issue as well.
He ain't all bad:D
FWIW doing your own work on Glocks is very easy.
FWIW doing your own work on Glocks is very easy.
I know, but I'm lazy/busy all the time, so I prefer to just drop stuff off when I can.
Ga Shooter
06-22-09, 09:18
Todd I lover your site and the information you gice in this forum. Thank you for all your wisdopm. I have a question though. I googled for Warren 2 Dot sights and cannot find any can someone please point me in the right direction. Also, my edc is a Glock 36 while my tactical sidearm will soon be a Glock 21 do you recommend the same setup on both of these with the NY1 and the 3.5# connector?
Thanks again.
For Warren sights, check out SKD Tactical (http://skdtac.com) and MLE Shooting Sports (http://www.mle-shootingsports.com/).
I'd recommend having the same trigger setup on both guns, yes. What reason can you think of to have your duty gun and off-duty gun different?
Ga Shooter
06-22-09, 09:27
I was typing and not thinking. The G36 is my concealed carry gun. That is why the difference. Thanks for the links
My bad, I was the one who wasn't clear. What reason would you have to set your CCW and 'tactical' gun up with different trigger pulls?
Ga Shooter
06-22-09, 09:58
I don't want to sounf like the polite chipmunks from the cartoons when I was a kid but I still think its me who was not clear. I would want the same trigger pull on both but was making sure that the setup would work on both. I did not know if the 36 being slimline was different in some way that I was not familiar with. I like to keep things the same. K.I.S.S definetly applies to me.
Understood. To the best of my knowledge, the G36 uses the same disconnector and trigger spring as the other Glocks. I don't know for certain because I've never met anyone whose G36 worked well enough for them to keep it. :cool:
Ga Shooter
06-22-09, 10:14
What has been the problem with them? I only have a couple hundred rounds through mine but have had no issues so far. I would not want to shoot competition with it but for my use of CCW just in case it seems to work for me.
Ga -- Don't want to derail this thread completely with G36-specific stuff, but if you do a search here and even at Glocktalk, you'll find lots of info to contemplate.
Ga Shooter
06-22-09, 11:49
Thanks for the pointers. Keep up the good work.
Todd,
Thoughts on the stainless steel guide rod for the 19?
http://glockstore.com/pgroup_descrip/7_Parts+%26amp%3B+Accessories/2138_Stainless+Steel+Guide+Rod/?return=%3ftpl%3Dindex%26category_id%3D7%26_Parts%2B%26amp%3B%2BAccessories%2F
Ga Shooter
06-30-09, 22:27
Here is a question. My gunsmith had Heine two dot tritium sights so I had them installed. I have never used 2 dot sights before. Daytime they are AWESOME but at night in very low light i shoot with both eyes open and I am seeing 3 dots. Am I nuts or what? When I close one eye everything is perfect but when I open my non dominate eye I see 3 dots. Is there an exercise I can do or what am I doing wrong?
I'm far from the forum's resident expert on Glocks. My personal opinion is that swapping out the guide rod with a non-flexing metal one is a bad idea. It falls right into the "It aint my gun til I've changed something" mentality. Especially with the new factory guide rods, the odds of breaking one are almost non-existent.
dirksterg30
07-01-09, 17:52
Here is a question. My gunsmith had Heine two dot tritium sights so I had them installed. I have never used 2 dot sights before. Daytime they are AWESOME but at night in very low light i shoot with both eyes open and I am seeing 3 dots. Am I nuts or what? When I close one eye everything is perfect but when I open my non dominate eye I see 3 dots. Is there an exercise I can do or what am I doing wrong?
I have a similar problem - I'm right-handed and left-eye dominant. When I try to focus on the front sight, my right eye sometimes tries to take over, so I see the front sight 2 different ways. What has helped me a lot is painting the front sight orange on some of my guns. My M&P9c now wears Ameriglo Operator night sights - these help me a great deal as well:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/dirksterg30/M%20and%20Ps/MP9cwithAmerigloOperators.jpg
Another option is to use tape. From Todd's website: http://pistol-training.com/articles/the-johno-diy-high-visibility-front-sight
For the Warren sights, is there any advantage over the standard rear versus the Sevigny carry rear? For my first 19, I ordered the Warren 2 dots with standard rear. For my other 19 I wanted to try a Trijicon front with plain rear, for comparison, but the standard rear was out of stock, so I ordered a set with the plain Sevigny carry rear. Anything in particular I should be noticing between the 2?
The Warren and Sevigny rear sights are completely different.
The Warren uses a modified notch which is neither a square notch nor a U-notch, combined with a profiled contour to give maximum down range visibility.
The Sevigny is a much more traditional square sight, square notch design.
So what differences will I see between the 2? Should I be sticking with the same rear across the board? From what you're saying I'll lose visibility with the Sevigny?
I personally prefer the Warren style. I think it's the best rear sight on the market. But obviously there are some people who know a lot about shooting (like, say, Dave Sevigny) who prefer the other.
You're not going to have your brain explode going from one to another. You'll probably end up preferring one over the other, though.
CarbonCycles
07-10-09, 17:23
Ghost connector
Maritime spring cups
Trijicon night sights from the factory
I'm far from the forum's resident expert on Glocks. My personal opinion is that swapping out the guide rod with a non-flexing metal one is a bad idea. It falls right into the "It aint my gun til I've changed something" mentality. Especially with the new factory guide rods, the odds of breaking one are almost non-existent.
Excellent post. Changing out the guide rod on a Glock is a waste of money unless we're talking an Unlimited or other non-stock configuration where lighter springs and/or weight may be desirable i.e. competition. The stock rods are incredibly tough and in fact the gun will continue to operate without a rod once assembled. At a range day we ran a model 18 hard all morning, at lunch when checking it out we found it didn't have a guide rod but it had been running just fine. Sights are where you need to spend money on your Glock.
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