View Full Version : AR Tools - What are the essentials?
There's a certain satisfaction to figuring out some way to do a job with the wrong tools (or none at all) but having the right tools makes any job a hundred times easier, more efficient, and helps assure that it's done right.
I'd like to start putting together the right set of tools to work on ARs. Not just for the sake of assembly, but also properly to clean, maintain, and repair them.
What's absolutely essential? What is nice to have, but only if you've already got the basics? What's a worthless gimmick?
(Hint to vendors: I'd love to see somebody put together an "essentials" kit at a reasonable price)
Thanks.
There is a vendor other than the paid advertisers here, who has been having speciality tools made to work on ARs that make things much easier;)
A set of punches, strap wrenches, the DPMS armorer's wrench (although I had to tweak mine a bit to make it work on FF rails), the action block from Brownell's that goes inside the upper reciever, a 5lb sledge, torgue wrench 1/2" drive, castle nut wrench, allen wrenches, moly grease, flathead and phillips screwdrivers, and the MOACKS. That's about all I can think of for now when it comes to complete assembly/disassembly.
For cleaning, it's personal preference. Having said that I go with the complete kit from Otis, a Dewey rod, some q-tips, cloth patches, brass brushes, old toothbrushes, brake cleaner, Militec-1, SLIP 2000......that about does it.
Ditto on the above. Here's a pic I took when I first bought my tools and started doing the work myself. The little plastic vise block that goes into the mag well; Its like an extra pair of hands. Brownell's makes two little items that have really made FSB work much more easier for me: The FSB block (round orange) and FSB taper pin starter.
http://i4.tinypic.com/166cc3d.jpg
The little white zig-zag shaped thing (Sinclair) holds the upper a few inches up from the lower, using the same hole as the take down pin. Normally I don't need it, since its easier for me to completely seperate the upper and lower when cleaning. But I have a few Colts with pita large hole screws instead of standard pivot pins, and that little tool beats simultaneously twisting two opposing screwdrivers...
I'd also recommend a Dremel.
Robb Jensen
06-29-06, 04:48
You'll need some sort of action block, I prefer the DPMS one where the upper receiver drops down onto it and is held on my the take down pin holes. A lot of people think these aren't supported (they are). I've probably installed/removed over 100 barrels now using this block.
Roll pin punches and roll pin starters are a must have. Good barrel wrenches are nice. I have a DPMS multi wrench, USGI wrench, PRI freefloat wrench (works well on Larue, DD, YHM, PRI and other soft bbl nuts) and I now have a DD Lite rail wrench. The new Larue bbl is on backorder which looks really nice.
I also like a lower receiver block (I have a DPMS flapper) for the lower to hold it while working on it.
So basically I'm a tool junkie, 4 of my uncles are machinists/mechanics that taught me to use the right tool for the job.
Oh yeah, also if you can find one of these it's the mother of all M4 stock castle nut wrenches. It's works very well on staked on castle nuts and is sold by Tonys Custom Uppers out of Ohio.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/gotm4/M4stockwrench.jpg
There is a vendor other than the paid advertisers here, who has been having speciality tools made to work on ARs that make things much easier;)
Who would that be???:rolleyes:
What are you all using the 5lb sledges for? FSB's? Kisara... portable mongo... lol
What are you all using the 5lb sledges for? FSB's? Kisara... portable mongo... lol
Yep! I prefer to use the 5lb sledge and take a gentler more controlled swing.
I also forgot to mention, I took a worn out mag and gutted it. I broke of the floor plate tabs and drove a block of wood into it. I clamp it down on the vice and slide a lower onto it! Presto, cheap and easy lower reciever block.
Ditto on the above. Here's a pic I took when I first bought my tools and started doing the work myself. The little plastic vise block that goes into the mag well; Its like an extra pair of hands. Brownell's makes two little items that have really made FSB work much more easier for me: The FSB block (round orange) and FSB taper pin starter.
http://i4.tinypic.com/166cc3d.jpg
The little white zig-zag shaped thing (Sinclair) holds the upper a few inches up from the lower, using the same hole as the take down pin. Normally I don't need it, since its easier for me to completely seperate the upper and lower when cleaning. But I have a few Colts with pita large hole screws instead of standard pivot pins, and that little tool beats simultaneously twisting two opposing screwdrivers...
I'd also recommend a Dremel.
The Brownell's sight base block is pretty good but needs to be modified. If using a FF rail the block obstructs placement of the base. Also, the notch for the HG cap is too shallow while the barrel channel is too deep.
I chopped off each side of the block to accommodate FF rails and the HG cap. I made a small spacer for the barrel channel.
It is an OK product but I think it needs work when considering how much it costs.
I have the rest of the tools you have laid out plus a GI three prong wrench and polyester strap wrench (the rubber strap wrenches just tear in half.
What grease should I be using on the barrel nut? Right now I just have some hight temp "moly" grease that I bought at an auto parts store. I can't remember what it is exactly but I'll look when I get home. What recommendations do you guys have provided I have the wrong stuff?
It is supposed to be Molybdenum Disulfide w/o graphite.
I use autopart store high temp. Moly grease though.
Auto moly usually has graphite it in, which you do not want on aluminum.
NECO makes Moly-Slide, which has no graphite. Bushmaster sells it.
Auto moly usually has graphite it in, which you do not want on aluminum.
NECO makes Moly-Slide, which has no graphite. Bushmaster sells it.
The stuff I have does not have graphite in it but I could have sworn I bought it at an auto parts store...
Maybe I didn't and I'm just going crazy :eek:
I have this little jar, which will last for generations. If it will make you sleep better at night, I'll put a small scoop (more than enough for barrel threads) in one of those little ziploc baggies like the meth freaks use and send it your way.
http://www.bushmaster.com/shopping/lowers/ms-100.asp
Regarding cleaning tools, I see a cleaning link pictured in Kisara's post. Very good little gadget. Four other tools I like are are: (1) an action/upper cleaning bronze brush, (2) a locking lug recess cleaning tool that uses thick cotton dental swabs, (3) a short rod that you use with a bronze/steel chamber brush and (4) a bore guide . All can be had from Sinclair. An alternative to the cotton swab deal are Grant's chamber stars, although I have no direct experience with them. Nevertheless, I'm sure they work as advertised, much better than q-tips and hemostats and such.
Obviously these are not field cleaning items, boresnakes and such are much better for those situations, but if you have access to a bench, mifght as well clean it and lube it right.
Lastly, you probably already know, but if you are prone to blasting crud out with carb cleaner/degreaser, definitely wear eyepro. You do not want backsplash to get into your eyes -- very painful and not very eyeball friendly.
Voodoochild
07-18-06, 11:15
Wowo I feel so left out. All I have is an Armorers wrench and a RRA castle nut tool. I have thought about getting the action blocks for holding my upper and a few other tools. But since I dont know the first thing about building AR's from scratch I am not so sure I would even attempt it. But yes I wonder who the non paying shopw ould be that has the kits already? I saw brownells has a colt tool kit that runs about 1000 dollars.
triggerhappy556
07-18-06, 13:04
Ditto on the above. Here's a pic I took when I first bought my tools and started doing the work myself. The little plastic vise block that goes into the mag well; Its like an extra pair of hands. Brownell's makes two little items that have really made FSB work much more easier for me: The FSB block (round orange) and FSB taper pin starter.
http://i4.tinypic.com/166cc3d.jpg
The little white zig-zag shaped thing (Sinclair) holds the upper a few inches up from the lower, using the same hole as the take down pin. Normally I don't need it, since its easier for me to completely seperate the upper and lower when cleaning. But I have a few Colts with pita large hole screws instead of standard pivot pins, and that little tool beats simultaneously twisting two opposing screwdrivers...
I'd also recommend a Dremel.
do we need the vodka too:D
I am suprised no one mentioned Hello Kitty in the pic.
Is the Moly grease something you have to have when installing a barrel? It is for the threads, correct, and not for inserting the barrel into the upper?
I can use a moly grease from Autozone if it doesn't have Lithium in it?
And yes, the person who has all of the specialized tools so as to make life a whole lot easier and not accidentally marr up your finish during an accident is Steve (Bigbore) from ADCO.
Hoplophile
08-23-06, 12:57
Is the Moly grease something you have to have when installing a barrel? It is for the threads, correct, and not for inserting the barrel into the upper? It is needed on the threads. I also put a very small amount on the face of the barrel extension where it contacts the barrel nut. A very thin film on the barrel extension where it contacts the upper will make it easier to install and remove but isn't required.
Why no graphite in the molybdenum disulfide? :confused:
Supposedly the powder will wear or grind the metal the same way sand does. I can imagine this on a part that is frequently moved (i.e. take-down or FCG pin), but for a barrel nut install? Maybe its like cheap insurance; better safe than sorry. The non-graphite only costs a few bucks.
Hoplophile
08-23-06, 18:14
Why no graphite in the molybdenum disulfide? :confused:
graphite can promote galvanic corrosion in both aluminum and stainless steel, or so I've been told.
I do know that the milspec says that moly assembly paste and dry film lubes must be graphite free.
galvanic corrosion
That sounds like what I got after eating food in Mexico...
Yep, you're right. Check out this chart when I google'd the term:
http://www.metal-mart.com/Guides/Galvanic.htm
http://i8.tinypic.com/25gdik0.jpg
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