Rust? around gas ring area

[andy t]

I took out my precision AR from the safe yesterday, and when I went to clear it, I had to apply a lot of pressure to the charging handle to get the bolt move to the rear.
Upon disassembly, I noticed a little rust around the gas rings on the bolt. I immeaditely cleaned the rifle and scrubbed it off, followed by lubrication with Millitech.
This rifle was last used last Friday with 40 rounds of PPV precision ammo and sat in the safe. The forming of rust strikes me as abnormal. What could be causing that? Has anyone else seem a similar issue?
My other AR's that use wolf sit uncleaned for extended periods of time, with no rust yet.

[shadco]

I took out my precision AR from the safe yesterday, and when I went to clear it, I had to apply a lot of pressure to the charging handle to get the bolt move to the rear.
Upon disassembly, I noticed a little rust around the gas rings on the bolt. I immeaditely cleaned the rifle and scrubbed it off, followed by lubrication with Millitech.
This rifle was last used last Friday with 40 rounds of PPV precision ammo and sat in the safe. The forming of rust strikes me as abnormal. What could be causing that? Has anyone else seem a similar issue?
My other AR's that use wolf sit uncleaned for extended periods of time, with no rust yet.

I don't believe Militec-1 is very good as a moisture barrier

[Sarge45]

I don't believe Militec-1 is very good as a moisture barrier

It isn't. CLP is a huge step up from Militec and Eezox is top shelf.

[markm]

I'm not in a moist environment, but I hit my bolt group with CLP at the end of every shoot.

[ddemis]

Try plain old Hoppes no 9, CLP and Miltech are not the best. I have used Hoppes on every gun I have ever owned and never had rust problems. Seems no 9 is so popular that troops in the sand box and Afghani want it. I recently shot my RRA lar 15 and put 400 rounds through it, let it sit for two weeks(I was lazy for a change) and discovered most of the oil still in place and zero rust. Give it a shot you wont be disappointed.

[markm]

Hoppes is a powder solvent.

[Jerm]

Try plain old Hoppes no 9, CLP and Miltech are not the best. I have used Hoppes on every gun I have ever owned and never had rust problems. Seems no 9 is so popular that troops in the sand box and Afghani want it. I recently shot my RRA lar 15 and put 400 rounds through it, let it sit for two weeks(I was lazy for a change) and discovered most of the oil still in place and zero rust. Give it a shot you wont be disappointed.

Garbage IMO.Especially when it gets cold.

Get some Weapon Shield.

I used RemOil and Hoppes for years before discovering the stuff the "cool guys" were using.

The cool guys were on to something...Best of which i've found is WS.

[Iraqgunz]

We are using Hoppes No. 9 and Militec-1 one as well. No rust issues here. Recently we started to switch over to Weaponshield since it is cheaper in bulk and seems to work well.

Let me clarify. The Hoppes is for removing carbon and powder not for "preserving". Most of our people are using either Militec-1 or Slip2000 and now Weaponshield for lubrication.

[andy t]

My question is - what could have caused this rust? Is it possible that the moisture level in the safe was a little too high? I have not observed on any other AR's in there.

[bkb0000]

do you have a gold stick in your safe? or silicon bags? either will work, the goldstick needs power and the silicon bags need to be replaced periodically. i think the silicone bags probably work better, since all the gold stick does is heat up the safe.

dunno why just one weapon would rust.. must have picked up some moisture the last time you used it, and brought that in to the safe with the gun. did someone spill some salt water on your BCG and not tell you? (kidding)

[Blankwaffe]

Ive read posts on TOS for years where folks complain about rust and or pitting on the bolt tail.Most IMHO is due to the bolt tail being dry and coated with carbon and or lack of PM.Some could say that the imported ammo may be a bit corrosive or the graphite content may be high etc. causing early corrosion of the exposed areas.Combined with the fact that taking weapons from say a 72F air conditioned home out into the +90F heat and back again could cause some condensation to occur.I know with the dew points reaching or exceeding 70 here that a weapon will frost up like a cold brew in that situation.See it everytime I take my weapons from the house to the range.A good gun oil with a proper corrosion inhibitor goes a long way in helping fight that as well as letting the weapon adjust to the temp swings and dry off per se.
Personally Ive never had the rust form on my bolt tail so I can't say directly.What I would do is to make sure the bolt tail is kept wet with lube between uses.If you do not plan to clean the weapon after use simply put a few drops of a gun oil/lube(that does not include militec's oil additive technology)into the gas ports of the carrier and allow it to saturate the bolt tail and gas rings.Cycling the action a few times helps spread the lube within the carrier.I generally do that every couple hundred rounds while in use as it seems to help keep the carbon fouling soft and at a minimal level.I also PM my weapons after each use.
To completely remove the fouling on the bolt tail/gas rings I just drop the bolt,tail end first,into a 4oz. jar of Hoppe's No.9 Nitro solvent and soak it for a bit.What does not just wipe off I use a sharpened chopstick to remove.Wipe dry and lube generously before assembly.Good to go.
For a gun lube I prefer Weapon Shield CLP,Mil-comm MC2500,Break Free LP and CLP.In that order.
HTH