View Full Version : Removing Rocksett Question...
Razorhunter
07-10-09, 20:55
What's the best method to remove two Rocksetted GB setscrews? These setscrews are only using a 3/32" hex head, so the hex key that removes them is somewhat small.
I am not particularly excited about soaking/submerging the last 8" of the end of the bbl under water, but I will if I have to.
Is this the only way to remove the setscrews?
I have applied a fair amount of pressure to the hex key, in an attempt to remove the setscrews, BUT I was only applying about 50% of max pressure, as I was concerned that either the setscrew or the hex key would round over/strip out.
I am using quality Snap On hex keys, so the setscrew would likely be the first to go.
Should I apply max pressure, to see if I can break the Rocksett? OR, will I be doomed if I do?
Is submerging and soaking 8" of the bbl, from the FH up to the GB the only solution here? Will water even get down into the threads and break the Rocksett loose?
I'm just wondering if there is another method for success, other than soaking/submerging here?
Robb Jensen
07-11-09, 07:06
I'd submerge them in H20 for 24hrs and then try it again. I've never had this method fail.
What's the best method to remove two Rocksetted GB setscrews? These setscrews are only using a 3/32" hex head, so the hex key that removes them is somewhat small.
I am not particularly excited about soaking/submerging the last 8" of the end of the bbl under water, but I will if I have to.
Is this the only way to remove the setscrews?
I have applied a fair amount of pressure to the hex key, in an attempt to remove the setscrews, BUT I was only applying about 50% of max pressure, as I was concerned that either the setscrew or the hex key would round over/strip out.
I am using quality Snap On hex keys, so the setscrew would likely be the first to go.
Should I apply max pressure, to see if I can break the Rocksett? OR, will I be doomed if I do?
Is submerging and soaking 8" of the bbl, from the FH up to the GB the only solution here? Will water even get down into the threads and break the Rocksett loose?
I'm just wondering if there is another method for success, other than soaking/submerging here?
We have found that a "shock" to the screw works very well (basically it loosens the bond). Rocksett is kind of like cement in that if you smack it well enough, it will crack.
So you can try taking a punch and a hammer and hitting the screw and then putting the driver on it.
C4
Razorhunter
07-11-09, 15:19
Nice,
I like that "shock" method, and I think I'll try that, and then attempt to loosen them.
If that doesn't work, I will submerge in water for 24 hrs.
If I end up having to submerge the first 8" of my bbl (from the FH up to the GB), should I do any of the following before submerging in the water?
-plug the end of the bbl somehow to keep water from going inside?
-coat the entire area to be submerged in any type of oil/rust preventative/etc?
Just wondering if there will be any rust/corrosion issues here? I mean, this is a standard chrome lined bore, and parkerized bbl, but I'm still wondering if there will be any issues at all?
Should I consider baking the upper at a low heat setting afterwards, to make sure there is no water that remains in the flash hider threads or the GB/bbl interface?
I'm only removing these GB setscrews, so that I can then taper pin the GB (the setscrews are right in line of where the taper pins will be installed).
SO, the GB and the FH that are currently installed, are NOT going to be removed, and will remain on the bbl, both during, and after submersion in water.
SO, I'm just concerned about any water possibly being left behind down inside the FH threads, or in between the GB, and the bbl interface???
Thanks guys.
Razorhunter
07-12-09, 18:44
Gentlemen,
I have just recently found out that the setscrews I'm attempting to remove from this GB, are NOT Rocksetted, but rather, they are RED loc-tited.
Now I have never really had much luck at all with using a soldering iron to apply heat to any type of fastener for red loc-tite removal.
I swear I've used quality soldering irons with large flat head soldering tips, with no luck. The problem, I believe, has been with the TINY little soldering tips. Even the large soldering tips just don't have enough surface area to get enough heat onto the setscrew to be loosened.
SO, I'm wondering if I need to try a Milwaukee Heat Gun which I have (bought at Home Depot). I'm sure you've all seen the one.
This would basically heat up the ENTIRE GB/bbl area, and would probably work, *IF* it can get hot enough.
What do you guys use to apply ample amounts of heat to small, red loc-tited setscrews/fasteners that need to be removed?
I use a little mini heat torch when I run across shenanigans like that. Always works for me.
Gentlemen,
I have just recently found out that the setscrews I'm attempting to remove from this GB, are NOT Rocksetted, but rather, they are RED loc-tited.
Now I have never really had much luck at all with using a soldering iron to apply heat to any type of fastener for red loc-tite removal.
I swear I've used quality soldering irons with large flat head soldering tips, with no luck. The problem, I believe, has been with the TINY little soldering tips. Even the large soldering tips just don't have enough surface area to get enough heat onto the setscrew to be loosened.
SO, I'm wondering if I need to try a Milwaukee Heat Gun which I have (bought at Home Depot). I'm sure you've all seen the one.
This would basically heat up the ENTIRE GB/bbl area, and would probably work, *IF* it can get hot enough.
What do you guys use to apply ample amounts of heat to small, red loc-tited setscrews/fasteners that need to be removed?
Razorhunter
07-12-09, 19:54
Yeah, I thought about a mini butane torch. I've always wondered what that does to the finish though?
I mean, I suppose this GB has a parkerized looking finish on it. (KAC low profile), and parkerizing is the only thing this finish really favors cosmetically.
I suppose I'm wondering what a torch would do to parkerizing, as well as Gunkote too? Does it necessitate refinishing the part that the torch flame was applied to? Not a biggie if it does, just want to confirm. ?
I've removed red-loctited set screws and gas blocks several times using a simple propane torch. Don't need to get it super hot, really. It's pretty easy.
Red Loctite will break down at 481*F (250*C). For small screws a soldering gun will work. For screws that I couldn't put the direct heat to I used some blocks and propped it over a hot plate then it came apart easily.
You don't have to get the locktite up to 481*F because its strength decreases as the heat increases. Its about half strength at 250*F
Razorhunter
07-13-09, 21:02
I've just never had any success with the pencil type soldering irons. Now I'm sure the super high quality guns would work, but never any luck with the small pencil irons. I even tried numerous tips/etc.
I think I'll try a small torch. Thanks guys.
I found one of those old gun style ones at a tag sale for a few bucks. the thing is ready to solder within a few seconds of pulling the trigger.
If you're concerned with the finish on the gun, before you use the torch cover the rest of the area with wet rags.
RAM Engineer
07-24-09, 09:57
Anyone have any tips on removing a muzzle brake that's been rocksetted to the barrel?
Anyone have any tips on removing a muzzle brake that's been rocksetted to the barrel?
Have you tried about 60-80 lbs of torque??
C4
Soak it in M-PRO7 overnight and then try it. I know Robb usually recommends water and as long as you do a proper cleaning afterwards I can't see it hurting.
Anyone have any tips on removing a muzzle brake that's been rocksetted to the barrel?
Have you tried about 60-80 lbs of torque??
That's scary for some people. :D
I have not found that rockseted muzzle devices are that hard to remove.... I haven't tried to take one off where the installer went ape shit overboard on rockset though.
That's scary for some people. :D
I have not found that rockseted muzzle devices are that hard to remove.... I haven't tried to take one off where the installer went ape shit overboard on rockset though.
I have not either, but you never know. When I use Rocksett on an item with threads, I basically put 2-4 drops of it on the threads (at 12/3/6/9). I never cover it with the stuff.
C4
Heat and Pressure.
Failing that a good bang on the muzzle end with a mallet will usually crack the rocksett.
We had a Battle Rifle that I lifted myself off the ground (I'm over 200lbs) with a breaker bar trying to remove.
A little bit of rocksett that is put on a clean degreased muzzle can be a dangerous thing.
Heat and Pressure.
Failing that a good bang on the muzzle end with a mallet will usually crack the rocksett.
We had a Battle Rifle that I lifted myself off the ground (I'm over 200lbs) with a breaker bar trying to remove.
A little bit of rocksett that is put on a clean degreased muzzle can be a dangerous thing.
I like to take a vice (with pads on the jaws) and gently squeeze the item. This will break the lock and then the item can be turned.
C4
RAM Engineer
07-24-09, 11:09
Funny Kevin should chime in here. ;) The reason I ask is I bought a KAC Triple Tap from Gun Gallery when I bought my SR-15. Neil said he'd time the TT and NOT use rocksett, but include the rocksett with the rifle. Unfortunately, it appears that the TT is not timed correctly and he DID use rocksett. I have all the shims, I'm just going to have to get the TT off the barrel first.
Funny Kevin should chime in here. ;) The reason I ask is I bought a KAC Triple Tap from Gun Gallery when I bought my SR-15. Neil said he'd time the TT and NOT use rocksett, but include the rocksett with the rifle. Unfortunately, it appears that the TT is not timed correctly and he DID use rocksett. I have all the shims, I'm just going to have to get the TT off the barrel first.
Interesting.
Got any pics of the incorrectly time MB???
C4
Robb Jensen
07-24-09, 11:38
Funny Kevin should chime in here. ;) The reason I ask is I bought a KAC Triple Tap from Gun Gallery when I bought my SR-15. Neil said he'd time the TT and NOT use rocksett, but include the rocksett with the rifle. Unfortunately, it appears that the TT is not timed correctly and he DID use rocksett. I have all the shims, I'm just going to have to get the TT off the barrel first.
I also find this interesting. The wrench flats should be at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock in relation to the rifle. When installed correctly the star will appear canted.
Here's a pic of mine on my 3gun rifle:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/gotm4/3gunrifles066.jpg
RAM Engineer
07-24-09, 13:22
I didn't look at the star. The wrench flats are canted. I'll get pictures up this evening.
Robb Jensen
07-24-09, 13:30
I didn't look at the star. The wrench flats are canted. I'll get pictures up this evening.
Cool. Thanks for clarifying.
RAM Engineer
07-24-09, 20:21
The setup. Rifle was upside down with top rail flat on the table. Level on the gas block and flat section of paperclip on wrench flats of compensator.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t46/beren412/CameraImport001-1.jpg
Paperclip
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t46/beren412/CameraImport004-1.jpg
It's not off by much. Maybe 5-10 degrees.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t46/beren412/CameraImport003-1.jpg
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t46/beren412/CameraImport002-1.jpg
Is this Rocksett? Looks like a lot of something.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t46/beren412/CameraImport009-1.jpg
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t46/beren412/CameraImport008-1.jpg
So:
1. Does this need fixing?
2. Should I tackle it myself or...
3. Who wants to tackle this for me? I'm willing to pay, if it needs fixing.
Thanks,
Jason
If you want to send it to me, I will set it up properly.
Its an easy fix if you have an industrial heat gun, and coldblue has a very detailed install instruction if your in need.
It looks like the they covered the threads in Rocksett (a no no).
If Kevin cannot help, I will.
Personally though, I would get the gunsmith that did it to cover your costs (as it is not your fault).
C4
RAM Engineer
07-25-09, 10:14
If you want to send it to me, I will set it up properly.
Its an easy fix if you have an industrial heat gun, and coldblue has a very detailed install instruction if your in need.
Kevin,
PM sent.
It looks like the they covered the threads in Rocksett (a no no).
If Kevin cannot help, I will.
Thanks for the offer. I'll let Kevin see what he can do first.
Personally though, I would get the gunsmith that did it to cover your costs (as it is not your fault).
I agree.
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