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ST911
09-12-09, 20:58
I'm in the market for a new bike. I'm looking for a bike that is suitable and comfortable for riding up and down the streets of suburbia, while being capable of off-road trail riding on improved and semi-improved trails, but not ones you'd call extreme. No stunts, jumping, or competition, just getting off the beaten path.

It should be field-repairable by me (after a learning curve) without specialty tools, technicians, or other assistance.

It should include whatever capabilities it would need to have to pull a cart for small loads or small children on streets and improved trails.

It should also lend itself to whatever expansion or adaptation I'm likely to need as I have more fun than I anticipated, and seek to do more.

I'll be riding for purposes of recreation, amusement, fitness, transportation, and utility.

I have no specific budget in mind. For the bike that does what I need it to, I'll pay what it costs. Judging by what I've seen in stores, it looks like there's a pretty wide range of options between $350-$1000 that would get me what I want.

Biking is not my thing, so I'm not familiar with what specific terms, options, or related data and minutiae would be helpful in providing to form your recommendations.

The most common recommendation I've gotten is to get a Trek mountain bike of some sort, and to stay out of Walmart. The latter was already obvious.

Salesman in a couple of places are like those in many gun shops.

Questions for the group: Any bike enthusiasts? What are you riding? What are you doing with it? What is the least amount of bike that will do for my needs? The middle? The gold standard? What should I be paying? Questions I should be asking the salesman? Other thoughts?

Thanks for your input.

ballistic
09-12-09, 21:24
You should check out the Gary Fisher Wahoo (http://fisherbikes.com/bike/model/wahoo). Gary Fisher is a Trek owned brand. A friend of mine just got into cycling bought the Wahoo and he loves it. It has front suspension which you can lockout for roads and bike paths and 26" tires which are suitable for the type of riding you mentioned and hauling a trailer. I'd recommend shopping and test riding at well known local bike shops and stay away from large sporting goods stores (Dick's, Sport's Authority, etc) and WalMart. Don't let them oversell you a bike with full suspension, hydraulic disc brakes, etc if you're just getting into it for general fitness, recreation, utility, and transportation.

Shop around and do some online research. Most bike shops make very little on each bike. Find a local shop that has good mechanics and make sure they give you a free tuneup following your purchase after shifter and brake cables have stretched and you have ridden the bike. Find a good salesperson that will put you the right size bike. Get a quality helmet and learn basic bike maintenance (chain cleaning) and how to change a tire. See Park Tool (http://www.parktool.com/repair/byregion.asp) for excellent how-to's.

I got back into cycling 4 years ago and ride about 3K miles per year on the road and several centuries (100 miles) and metric centuries (62 miles) per year. It's great for fitness and a good break from running.

Hope this helps!

11Bravo
09-12-09, 21:57
I like my Specialized.
It has front suspension and a suspended seat post.
Get a saddle(seat) with a gap down the middle so your ass bone can float instead of being sat on.
I personally like the rapid fire shifters as opposed to twist grips but it seems they must not have been far enough to the left of some chart somewhere and can be hard to find. :eek: :D
Trick to "speeds" isn't how many but what the range is from low to high.
A 15 speed probably has about the same low and high as a 27 speed but there are not as many steps in between.
BUT, to go up the speeds according to actual gear ratios would require all kinds of shifting left up and right down and right down and left down and left down and blah, blah, blah...
Point is, don't get all wrapped up about speeds.
Make sure the frame is big enough so that you get full extension of your legs or your knees will hurt.
The old rule about standing over the bar and having an inch between the bar and your dude bag is bogus.
Another thing to remember about comfort is that in general the more upright your seated position, the more comfortable you will be.
Those handle bars on mountain bikes that are more or less straight are great for whatever, but the granny looking things with some uprightness to them will save your back.
Better components will make it a nicer ride.
Ride one of those things at a retail store then go to an actual bike shop and ride one of them.
SMOOOOOOOTH.
Smooth shifting, smooth pedaling, quiet....
You get what you pay for component wise.
I might suggest getting a rear cassette (sprocket set) and front crank set for that matter, that is bolted together as opposed to riveted, that way you can change out if you decide you don't like the ratios.
Speaking of ratios...
The ratio that determines "gears/speeds" is called gear-inches and is calculated by....
Number of teeth on the front sprocket divided by the number of teeth on the rear sprocket and multiplying that number by the diameter of the rear wheel in inches.
What this tells you is how many inches forward you will travel for each complete turn of the crank.
Ideally you'll get a wide range and evenly spaced steps in between.

Crap, too long.
Sorry about that.

Anyway, $300 to $500 should get you a bike that will work just fine and last a long time.
Sales help.

And like ballistic said, find a shop that will work with you and not be stuck on the "what can I do to get you out of here with a bike today"?

11Bravo
09-12-09, 22:31
If you get toe clips, make sure you don't cinch them down too tight.
If you get the clips that are on the bottom of the shoes, practice getting unclipped while stationary and supported by something.
It is WAY embarrassing to pull up to a stop sign and flat out tip over because you can't put your foot down. :rolleyes:
No matter how late at night, in how deserted a place, there WILL be some smartass there that sees you do it.
Not to mention dangerous if there is traffic around.

ST911
09-12-09, 22:50
Good info, keep it coming. I don't know what I don't know on the subject.

Also helpful: Can someone recommend excellent bike shops to visit in Minn/St Paul, Rochester, Sioux Falls, Sioux City, Lincoln/Omaha, or west-central Wisconsin?

11Bravo
09-12-09, 23:53
Well, in Mason City, IA there is Bennett's Bike and Fitness.
There is(maybe was) a great shop in Clear Lake, IA on South Shore Drive called Lakeside Cyclery run by a couple of brothers, but one developed cancer and I believe passed away.
Their number is still listed.
Lakeside Cyclery
5435 S Shore Dr
Clear Lake, IA
50428-8663
641-357-4660

Gutshot John
09-13-09, 09:33
I'm curious about this as well. That said the recommendations I've seen above are in the 4-figure cost range, is there something a bit cheaper?

Vic303
09-13-09, 11:03
I will ask my husband to post & suggest for y'all. He grew up in a family owned bike shop, used to work for Trek/Fisher and has wrenched on bikes most of his life.

3CTactical
09-13-09, 18:37
I just bought an 08 model Specialized Hard Rock Pro Disc and I love it. I got it for a good price ($500) since it was last years model and the bike store was looking to move it. It's a hardtail but I think for most people the simplicity and price of a good quality hardtail is hard to beat. I pull my kids around in a bike trailer quite a bit with this bike and have had no problems with it but I've only had it for a few months and have only put maybe a few hundred miles on it so far. I used to have a Mongoose (when they were only sold in bike shops - bought about 15 years ago) with a Tange chrome moly frame and while it was a well built bike that never let me down, the new Specialized is way more comfortable and smooth riding - I think frame geometry and components have improved quite a bit over the last 15 years.

SingleStacker45
09-13-09, 19:08
Try the 2010 Trek 6000/4500. I own a bike shop in the southeast and have been wrenching for twenty years. We sell quite a few of these. They have mechanical disc brakes which are really low maintenence. These will handle trail riding with no problem and the bontrager parts(a Trek subsidiary) have a five year warranty. You can also buy Trek's Red Shield protection plan for a bit extra and it will cover wear items like chains and cogs. You may want to go with a less aggresive tread on the tires if you are on the pavement alot.

Mule

dave5339
09-13-09, 21:48
Skintop911

I've been out of the bike business for a couple of years, (got a real job) but as my wife, Vic303 said, I grew up in the business.

You've already got some great advice from some folks, namely stay out of Walmart/Kmart. Trying to poor-boy a bike is like trying to poor-boy an AR, you get what you pay for.

My first piece of advice is shop around for the RIGHT bike shop. Find one that will happily answer your questions and talk about what YOU need, not what they WANT you to buy.

The area you have to shop is some of the same area I used to rep for Gary Fisher when I was on the road. There are, (or at least were) a lot of good shops in that area. I'm sure some have changed owners and gone up or down hill since I was out that way however. Looking at the dealer locator for Trek/Gary Fisher it looks like some of my old accounts have went on to other things.

Personally I ride an older Specialized Rock Hopper XC Pro, it's a great basic do it all bike for me. I no longer race or ride stupid, crazy, insane, hair on fire trails. Most of my riding is usually the suburban bike path or dirt/gravel road these days.

As to field repairable, most everything on the bike is common sense, (wheel repair and building is an art however). You will need some bike specific tools if you want to do more than just the basic repair. As with an AR, having the right tool for the job makes things so much easier and leads to less swearing, smashing things with hammers, and a lower blood pressure.

If you find yourself in the need of wheel repair, as in your wheel is no longer true, (does not spin between the brake pads) please take it in to a good repair shop. Not to say you don't have any mechanical ability, it's just that truing a wheel is more than a bit of an art form. Just grabbing a spoke wrench and tightening all the spokes in a wheel is a recipe for raising your blood pressure and having to ask the grease stained, tattooed freak of a bike wrench to please fix your screw-up while forking over a $100 bill.

A good mid range, ($500-$1000) hard tail, (no rear suspension) mountain bike from any of the big names, Trek, Gary Fisher, Specialized, Cannondale.... should suit what you need. Easy to ride, capable of handling most of the riding you describe, easy to maintain, capable of towing a trailer full of kids or bug out gear, and most of all, just plain fun to ride.

If you've any more questions, I am more than happy to help!

Semper Fi

Oscar 319
09-13-09, 22:11
http://img26.picoodle.com/img/img26/4/4/9/f_trek4500m_55a1ad7.jpg

The matte black/olive drab paint sold me on this bike :cool:. I don't think that still offer the same paint job, but the Trek 4500 runs in the $500ish price range. It's been a great bike. The Bontrager tires that come on the bike suck, but otherwise is solid and takes my abuse.

Another "bang for the buck" bike to look at is the Gary Fisher Wahoo, though I destroyed mine :eek:.

Bikes are like AR's. Get you a good frame (lower) and you can upgrade/replace the other components.

M4arc
09-30-09, 06:50
I like all the suggestions so far (I'm a big Gary Fisher fan in case you noticed from my other thread) but let me throw one more out there: The Gary Fisher Kaitai Dual Sport (http://fisherbikes.com/bike/model/kaitai).

This looks like something that might fit your needs quite well. It's going to be rugged enough to handle the trails you described but should also get up and go on the paved trails.

KimberMike
10-29-09, 19:58
I ride a FELT. They have great products, and the guys who started the company and design the bikes have been in the business for a long time. I bought my bike a few years back, when they were still relatively unknown...at least in my area, and have been completely satisfied with my purchase.

I ride my bike pretty hard and am not a small person. It has held up great and I haven't had any breakages yet...knock on wood.

When I was originally looking, I was leaning towards a Specialized, but ended up going with the FELT because it was a little more unique and had better parts for the same amount of money. I have a Q520, and it was right around $600. Great bikes in my opinion and an excellent ratio of price/value.

Pic of this year's Q520
http://www.feltbicycles.com/Resources/ProductPhotos/Bikes/10_FELT_Q520_BLACK_USA.jpg

sjs
10-29-09, 20:44
The Salsa Fargo (http://salsacycles.com/fargoComp09.html) was designed for dirt road exploration:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3068/2881179874_5f997bee8b.jpg?v=0

It is an odd bike: a drop bar, rigid, 29" wheeled mountain bike, but it works for all-purpose use. I've ridden mine on pavement, dirt roads, double track, jeep trails, and even pretty crazy singletrack. I have a high-end full suspension mountain bike too but I usually end up riding the Fargo unless I'm doing something technical. There are very few things to go wrong with it; no suspension (the fat 29er tires are adequate for almost any non-technical riding), tough rims, mechanical disk brakes, simple bar-end shifters. It is also compatible with fenders, frame bags, front and rear racks, and has 5 or 6 water bottle cage mounts.

The 2009 version has a fairly nice parts spec and is usually priced around $1800 if you can find it. The 2010 version will have a lower-grade parts spec and will be considerably less.

The Surly Pugsley (http://www.surlybikes.com/frames/pugsley_frame/) is another interesting machine, but you have to build it up from the frame or have someone do it for you; it's not available as a complete bike.

http://www.moredirt.co.uk/bikes/1299.jpg

Back to lurking...

JBecker 72
10-29-09, 20:54
I have a 12 year old hard tail Fisher with Shimano XT components.
awesome bike that has seen probably over 10k miles of use.

Don Robison
10-29-09, 21:07
Like has been said find a good shop and ask questions. Much like ARs there isn't much price difference between entry level and mid/upper level components so get the best components you can afford and don't scrimp on components to get an entry level full suspension. Just my opinion, but I'd rather have a hard tail with XT componants vs a FS with Alivio components. If you buy wisely it will last you. I'm still riding a 97 GT Zaskar frame I put together with XTR components in 99. Raced it for two seasons, but now it's mostly dirt back roads and trails.

zeke18
10-29-09, 23:55
Pretty good advice on here so far. Make sure you find a good shop that will stand behind the product they sell, for example I worked for a Gary Fisher shop last summer and we gave free tune-ups for as long as YOU own the bike. Lots of people don't think about the cost of tune-ups which in Montana is about $50-60 a time but in bigger cities can run close to $100.

Most of the bikes you will run across will be serviceable by you in the field with only a few Allen wrenches and some other tools. But wheel truing and fork rebuilds are tougher and require extra tools/experience.

As with what most everyone else said don't get a full suspension bike they are nice but if you don't buy a good one (around $2000) they will be a pain and require lots of work. I ride a Kona but worked in a Gary Fisher shop (owned the bike before I worked there), Giant, Trek, Specialized, are some of the big brands (Giant and a few other Chinese companies make every frame for every bike besides expensive small brands even for Trek and Specialized ect.) they are all good and really a $600 bike is a $600 bike colors change and there may be slight parts variations.

As for what you should spend I think the $600-$1000+ range has very nice bikes that will do what you want them to. I think that disc brakes (mechanical, not hydro) are a very nice addition and the Shimano parts groups above Deore (next step up is LX or SLX, then XT, don't pay for XTR unless you find yourself biking extensivly) and any of the SRAM groups above X5 or X7 (above that is X9 and X0). The difference between Shimano and SRAM components is that SRAM pulls roughly 2x more cable both are excellent.

You should look into a 29" wheeled bike if they are in your price range, they roll over stuff better and tend to keep momentum better. I can't think of downsides except tubes and tires may not be everywhere you are and the selection of after market forks is much smaller and more expensive.

That was long and winded sorry hope it helps and hopefully I didn't tell you anything factually inaccurate, if anyone disagrees please point it out.

11Bravo
10-30-09, 00:21
Have you gotten a bike yet?
Just wondering where you're at in this process.

CharlieMike
10-30-09, 06:47
I liked my Bianchi Volpe (http://www.bianchiusa.com/10-bicycles/10-gran-fondo/10-volpe.html) so much, I got another. It is a super versatile steel frame bike that I've used for touring, off-road, medium paced group rides, grocery getting, and centuries.

It has a cyclocross style frame which means the bottom bracket is high enough to clear obstacles and it has cantilever brakes which accommodate the knobby tires it comes with. You can replace the knobby tires with traditional road style tires when necessary.

It has plenty of droup-outs for mounting racks and other accessories.

I have one set up for touring and one for casual, day-to-day riding. It is a great bike that comes with reasonable components. The only things I'd change on a stock Volpe are the suspension seat post and the poorly made SPD pedals it comes with.

For a similar American made bike, the Surly Cross Check (http://surlybikes.com/bikes/cross_check_complete/) is nice.

ETA: Just found the 2010 Volpe. It doesn't have the suspension seat post. Also -- ignore the MSRP. You can probably get one for about $800 otd. Maybe less.

EDITED AGAIN: I meant to link to the Cross Check, not the Long Haul Trucker.

Dead Man
04-18-14, 14:19
Exhuming for examination:

So what did you get, and how did it work out?

Vic303
04-21-14, 09:18
Just to add some options--I have 3 HPV's at this point. A Bacchetta Giro (http://bacchetta.com/bikes/touring/giro-26s), an old (circa 1995) Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo mountainbike that doesn't get ridden, and a Catrike Expedition (http://www.catrike.com/#!expedition/c2465).

The Giro is my road machine. The Catrike is the MUP/dog running/riding with kids machine.

brickboy240
04-21-14, 10:13
Long time mt biker here!

I have two older Gary Fishers and a dual suspension KHS.

Skip dual suspension...you won't need it, it is complicated and heavy and unless you spend huge bucks...it is not worth it.

I'd look hard at Trek and Cannondale's offerings. You need to spend at least 750-850 to get a decent bike...sorry. In that range, you get better components and better gearing and a bike that is not too heavy. You also get better brakes and that is crucial.

Research the suspension forks and get a bike that has a decent fork. A good fork and good disc brakes can make up for other components where some makers cut corners.

Don't start with SPD pedals. Start with toe clips then move to clipless. You WILL end up going clipless if you ride for any length of time. I prefer Shimano SPDs.

Good luck and welcome to the addiction! LOL

-brickboy240

Don Robison
04-21-14, 11:01
........

Dead Man
04-21-14, 11:09
Exhuming for examination:

So what did you get, and how did it work out?

This thread is many years old, I'm sure he's already made his purchase. I just wondered what he ended up with, and how it worked for him.

Trajan
04-21-14, 18:18
Don't start with SPD pedals. Start with toe clips then move to clipless. You WILL end up going clipless if you ride for any length of time. I prefer Shimano SPDs.

Flats seem to be coming back. I just started last year, but the idea of clipping in seems a bad idea to me.

Or is it just something you "get over"?

Dead Man
04-21-14, 18:55
Flats seem to be coming back. I just started last year, but the idea of clipping in seems a bad idea to me.

Or is it just something you "get over"?

Well when you realize the additional wattage you can transfer to the crankset from being able to pedal in every direction, instead of just down, you'll never go back.

You definitely need to get used to it, but you definitely do. Using the appropriate cleat/pedal style for your application is important- if you're pedaling for 50-75 miles on backroads and highways, you want something different than if you're darting around in a city.

tommyrott
04-21-14, 20:25
it makes a very large difference for a unfit person to use clipless pedals, yes the learning curve sucks dead goats but if you start on a lawn to learn your unclipping it makes a major difference . I learned with look pedals back in the 90's when the adjustability was shit. don't loosen the pedal to it's lightest or you will pull out of the pedal, leave it on a middle of the road setting, and don't waste your money on anything but shimano. look at the DEORE level stuff they do have a clipless with built in platform that really does work for sneakers. ALSO AS IMPORTANT is the shoes even casual cycling shoes are much stiffer than sneakers which aids in power transfer.

ST911
04-21-14, 20:40
Exhuming for examination:

So what did you get, and how did it work out?

Sorry, just saw this. A new bike got sidelined in favor of some other stuff and I haven't bought yet. I have ridden a few, and was at the bike shop the other day looking so I haven't given up altogether. Thanks for the continued input, guys.

Vic303
04-21-14, 22:33
Shimano spd's are ok if you hate your knee joints, imho. My personal pref is for speedplay frogs, though I am using a pair of egg beater candy pedals on the catrike, so DH and I won't have to keep swapping pedals when we change riders.

On the catrike, clipless pedals are considered essential life support gear. No joke. Without them you are at an extremely high risk of shattering your leg by running it over with the frame cruciform.

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk

tommyrott
04-21-14, 23:16
the early spd's had float issues and hot spot as well but that has been improved greatly the past 5 years. I stopped riding spd's because of that but having access to a number of full time MTB pro rider's who have to ride what their given it's preety much universal amongst them for spd's . I have also ridden crank bro's candy pedal's which caused me to return to spd's about 2 years ago was really impressed with the improvement. one thing to keep in mind if your going to invest in clipless pedals have a local shop that KNOW'S what their doin help set up your cleats it will save your knee's a lot of grief.

Dead Man
04-21-14, 23:23
Shimano spd's are ok if you hate your knee joints, imho. My personal pref is for speedplay frogs, though I am using a pair of egg beater candy pedals on the catrike, so DH and I won't have to keep swapping pedals when we change riders.

On the catrike, clipless pedals are considered essential life support gear. No joke. Without them you are at an extremely high risk of shattering your leg by running it over with the frame cruciform.

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk

Definitely want something that "floats," if you're not on a pro-fitted, dedicated road bike. As mentioned above, 3-hole road cleats will lock your foot to the pedal. Other clipless pedals don't hold your foot in a particular position on the pedal. Coming from cyclocross origins, I actually use eggbeaters for everything right now, and I think they're really the best all-around option for anything but dedicated road riding. They let your foot "float," or rotate a bit before releasing, so they don't **** your knees, they hold tight while pedaling but release easily, don't seize up with mud and the bars cut through any mud on your shoe (if this should ever apply to you), and using the 2-hold pattern, you have a great selection of walkable shoes to chose from.

I'm entertaining the idea of trying Speedplays on my next road shoe, though. For a road bike, it looks like a real slick system.

brickboy240
04-22-14, 15:13
You might want to start off with old school toe clips...then go on to clipless.

YES...the power and control afforded by clipless is totally worth it. How else are you going to get the ass-end over logs without hopping? LOL

SPDs are not THAT hard to learn and they are adjustable. They are also tough as nails and not all that expensive.

I guess I am just used to them but once you master clipless...you will not want to ride any other way.

Get a hard tail with a decent fork. Unless you are going to drop 3-4 grand on a bike...stay far away from the lower cost dual suspension bikes. They are heavy, complicated and the shocks are usually crap and need an immediate upgrade. This is the mistake I made with the XC-104 KHS I bought. The rear shock was so squirrely, I had to replace it with an air-oil Rock Shox unit. Made it better but the bike is still on the heavy side and I prefer my old Fisher hard tail because it is lighter and more responsive.

The Trek and Cannondales in the 900-1200 range are a really nice place to start. Go much cheaper and you are getting crappy components that wear out too soon, extra weight and corners cut on things like seat, tires and rims. A bike in this range will also be easier for you to power, control, brake and ride all day without it beating you to death.

Good luck and welcome to the addiction...

-brickboy240

TehLlama
04-22-14, 17:32
The Trek and Cannondales in the 900-1200 range are a really nice place to start. Go much cheaper and you are getting crappy components that wear out too soon, extra weight and corners cut on things like seat, tires and rims. A bike in this range will also be easier for you to power, control, brake and ride all day without it beating you to death.

Good luck and welcome to the addiction...

-brickboy240

The Trek Mamba is one hell of a deal, that's definitely my default recommendation for most folks.

As far as clipless, I run flats and ride slightly gnarlier stuff, so the skill to clear logs without clips can definitely be learned (albeit more easily with 29ers, more so with FS 29ers known for square bump compliance like mine).

Anything less that hydraulic brakes, solo air shocks (the RockShox Recon are about my quality floor - for lighter people the Raidon's are usable) is like buying an RRA rifle.

brickboy240
04-23-14, 11:04
Wow...that Trek Mamba IS a good deal for the money. Since I have not bought a bike in a long time or paid much attention to Trek...I guess I missed that one.

You get a workable fork, Bontrager quality rims and components and decent deraileurs that could be upgraded later if needed. For the money...that is a totally worthy bike. The only thing I would change is to Shimano SPD pedals and I could totally get by on that bike.

All of my 3 bikes are 26'ers so I have no experience with a 29" mt bike. Since I have a 30" inseam....all the 29" bikes seem huge to me. YMMV.

-brickboy240

Dead Man
04-23-14, 12:17
Since the OP has indicated he is still in the market, I will make my recommendation.

It sounds like you (OP) don't quite know exactly what you'll be using the bike for. You indicate mild road riding and want some mild off-road ability. My guess, based on experience with helping other bike-newbies, is that once you get on the bike and start using it you'll discover that you definitely have a preference for one or the other: you'll like off-roading, and will generally only do it and will want something that does it well, or; you'll like road-riding and will generally only do it and will want something that does it well. People try to buy bikes that will do both reasonably well when they're not exactly sure what they want, and they do produce bikes that make a decent attempt at facilitating that market, but it's still a compromise. We all know that compromise is generally..... a compromise.

All of that said, I would definitely skip the mountain bike, if you think you'll be doing any road riding. Mountain bikes, especially suspension bikes, are wonderful for rough off-roading, but suck for everything else. They are slow and heavy; the exact opposite of what you want on the road. To eek any pleasure from a road ride, you need an efficient machine; something that will not resist your every pedal stroke. This means higher gearing for higher speed, smooth tires (which you want for all purposes except damp off-road, contrary to overwhelming popular opinion), light weight, longer cranks, and better aerodynamics. And all of these things will have a marked effect on your performance for just casual road riding; I'm not talking racing here. Even at 12-15 MPH (slow, for a road bike) all of these things will matter.

Mountain bikes are like being in "low" 4x4 in your truck. With short gearing you can power up short, muddy hills. Fat, knobby tires chew up rocks and roots and holes. Suspension, and extra weight, absorb wrist-and-shoulder-punishing impact. But no fun on pavement.

Cyclocross bikes are really the only exception to this compromise, and are probably really a lot more appropriate for what most people who want this dual-capability will actually do with the bike. With a cyclocross bike, you can still go very fast and actually enjoy a road ride, but it will still tackle, and tackle well, the kind of off-roading you describe. The frames are beefier but still in road configuration, the wheels are stronger but will in efficient 700c road size, the gearing is slightly lower for better torque off road, but still high enough that non-roadies will never spin out on the flats, bossed cantilever brakes that won't seize up with snow/ice/mud/woodland debris, etc. But being, essentially, just beefed up road bikes, you can still configure them almost exactly like a road bike for great efficient road riding. I use a cyclocross frame for a long-distance commuter, and regularly pass other commuters like they are standing still, and even give roadies a run for their money; frequently beating them on impromptu races also.

Keep a set of 23 or 25 tires for 90% of your cycling needs, and have a set of knobby cross tires for when you're going to do wet or serious off-road riding.

And if you ever had an itch to race, cyclocross races in the fall are a hell of a lot of fun. Not nearly the elitist ****wad attitude you get at road races.

http://www.jpsphotos.net/images/20070926_Cyclocross_01.jpg
http://www.cyclingfans.net/images/2010_usa_cycling_cyclocross_national_championships_krishna_dole1.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn137/GA2G/CyclocrossSteepDrop.jpg
http://www.rochesterbikeshop.com/imgs/2012/09/trek-cyclocross-bike-980x400.jpeg

Trifecta
04-23-14, 12:28
GT peace9r
29 in single speed single track mountain bike.

No gears, no special tools and basic maintenance is simple.

TehLlama
04-23-14, 13:03
All of my 3 bikes are 26'ers so I have no experience with a 29" mt bike. Since I have a 30" inseam....all the 29" bikes seem huge to me. YMMV.

I'm 6'2", so the 29" wheels are a much better fit. For anything in between, the 27.5" '650B' wheel size fits in between - a lot of the rollover ability of the wagon wheel 29ers, but a lot of the compact strength and lightness of the 26" wheels.

For my uses, I wind up taking my 120mm travel mountain bike on roads a ton - just cram 50psi in the tires and I can keep up with all but the fit road bikers, but I abuse all 4.7" of travel when riding off road like an idiot, so that's the compromise that makes sense for me.

For limited off-road, a cyclocross bike is money - with disk brakes, and decent drivetrain, unless you're going over drops or having to clear softball or larger sized rocks, a cyclocross can do it all.

brickboy240
04-23-14, 14:21
In the age of texting...I try to not ride my bike on the streets any more than I have to. It is just too damn dangerous these days. Nobody is paying attention to my 4x4 Tundra...let alone me on a bike! LOL

Yeah, he might want to look at a cyclo-cross bike. I forgot about those because around here...there are two camps of riders. The laid back, dirty but cool mt bikers and the elitist skinny tire road guys. Most times...the groups don't play well together.

There are some narrow mt bike tires that can be aired up to higher pressures and used on the road and they will fell better than the stock knobbies. Putting those on a mt bike might be cheaper than the cheapest cyclo-cross bikes I have seen. You can also change cogs and chain rings on any mt bike so it is not as if one is stuck with lower gears.

I agree that full suspension is a total waste for mostly on-road riding. Adds weight and complexity. However, a suspension fork can be an aid if you travel on torn up city streets. Those thin skinny tires on road bikes will beat you to death! LOL

The choices these days are indeed wide open...

-brickboy240

Dead Man
04-23-14, 14:39
In the age of texting...I try to not ride my bike on the streets any more than I have to. It is just too damn dangerous these days. Nobody is paying attention to my 4x4 Tundra...let alone me on a bike! LOL

I do about 200 miles a week on the road, most of that on rural highways. I've had plenty of uncomfortable moments, but I've never had anything I'd call a "close call" on the highway. Riding around the city, however - many close calls. Oddly enough, the closest calls I've had were when motorists have seen me at the last minute and hit their brakes - right smack in my path. Just go, dammit!

I've never yet actually collided with a vehicle, nor crashed to avoid being hit. Basically all of my cycling friends have, and every single instance has been in the city. And by city, I mean down-town type city, with low speeds and lots of stop signs and things going on all over the place. Fortunately, these have all been low-impact, low-consequence collisions. One of my closest friends was hit by a pickup truck a few nights ago. Knocked him to the ground; he was otherwise fine. Didn't even bother mentioning to the driver that he is a lawyer. :eek:

Obviously the consequences are greater on highways and suburban roads, but having a good day-light-bright blinky and staying on the shoulder seem to mitigate the risk. I feel very safe once I get out of the city.

Trajan
04-23-14, 18:28
The Trek Mamba is one hell of a deal, that's definitely my default recommendation for most folks.

As far as clipless, I run flats and ride slightly gnarlier stuff, so the skill to clear logs without clips can definitely be learned (albeit more easily with 29ers, more so with FS 29ers known for square bump compliance like mine).

Anything less that hydraulic brakes, solo air shocks (the RockShox Recon are about my quality floor - for lighter people the Raidon's are usable) is like buying an RRA rifle.

Yeah, I forgot to mention that I'm on a 29'er too. Don't have a problem clearing trees with flats... Rock gardens are a problem, but I'm just not good enough for those yet.

29'ers aren't that bad. My inseam is only like 31ish, but I'm 5'11". I ride a medium (17") frame.

Even if street riding was safe, I doubt that I'd do it. Too boring after being in the woods.

Dead Man
04-23-14, 21:04
Even if street riding was safe, I doubt that I'd do it. Too boring after being in the woods.

Only if you don't race. But if you don't race, most mountain biking is just as boring, just slightly more involved technically.

Trajan
04-24-14, 07:40
Only if you don't race. But if you don't race, most mountain biking is just as boring, just slightly more involved technically.
I disagree. I enjoy walking/jogging in the woods as well. Doing that on a bike is even more fun.

How would you even pass on narrow singletrack anyway?

Vic303
04-24-14, 07:49
I'm entertaining the idea of trying Speedplays on my next road shoe, though. For a road bike, it looks like a real slick system.
Biggest issue I know of with the X-class Speedplays (road pedals, aka lollipop ones), is that the retention springs in the cleats are not real durable. If the springs fail, you can't use the cleat until you replace them. This is from a friend who rides them all the time. I'm a Frogs only rider, so I have no direct experience with their road cleats/pedals.

Dead Man
04-24-14, 12:49
I disagree. I enjoy walking/jogging in the woods as well. Doing that on a bike is even more fun.

How would you even pass on narrow singletrack anyway?

Down-Hill is generally time-trial... shouldn't be any passing. But there are lots of MTB events that do involve passing, and the course is selected accordingly. Unless I'm misunderstanding the question?

Trajan
04-24-14, 15:18
Down-Hill is generally time-trial... shouldn't be any passing. But there are lots of MTB events that do involve passing, and the course is selected accordingly. Unless I'm misunderstanding the question?

Makes sense. Around here, all of our trails are just wide enough for one bike. Rather technical, tight, twisty type of trails (for the most part).

.357sigger
04-24-14, 16:34
I picked up a cannondale f5 about 3 years ago and it has been more than enough bike for me...trails, park, road. It has disc brakes, front suspension, shimano , and xt components etc. I think I paid 700 at the time

.357sigger
05-08-14, 05:10
Reading all the comments on the 29's got me interested. I just picked up a Cannondale trail sl3 29r yesterday. I'm pretty pumped about hitting the trails. I'm curious about how others have theirs setup...pedals, tires,etc. what did you change from how it came from the factory?

brickboy240
05-08-14, 10:25
I am going to have to try a 29er soon.

Having a 30" inseam...I have avoided those because I think I am too short to feel comfortable on such tall tires but the benefits of 29" wheels seems worth investigating.

All 3 of my mt bikes are old school 26" bikes. I do have full suspension and disc brakes though.

Sold on disc brakes but not sure I need the weight and complication of full suspension.

-brickboy240

TehLlama
05-08-14, 12:08
FS isn't a requirement, and there are a lot of really good hardtail 29ers - just be aware that most of them are XC/Race type 29ers in the hardtail variety, though the AM HT 29's are beautiful beasts of burden.

Go Shimano on the hydro brakes, you'll never go back there. I wouldn't worry about the wheel size, as long as you don't end up with something that has a catastrophically tall stepover height, and an unmanageable wheelbase (both cases where hardtails can have an advantage), you'll love it. That said, in the 100-120mm travel full suspension side (especially the Giant Maestro based ones) you're looking at a FS that is as quick as a hardtail that gets more grip climbing due to the rear travel. I didn't even buy the Giant 29 I was looking at, but I still recommend them absolutely (wound up on a GT Sensor that I've now larded up to a 36lb monster).

Vic303
05-08-14, 12:18
FYI the 29er wheel is not any bigger diameter than a 700c road wheel. Both are 622 diameter. You can run 700c tires on a 29er, just watch the width. Skinny road tires will not do well. Stick to 700x32 or wider if you want.

.357sigger
05-09-14, 12:21
I did a nice 25 mile ride yesterday...it was fun getting back out in the woods. :D

Vic303
05-10-14, 14:41
18 & change this morning with the Plano Women's Ride.

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk

Abraham
05-10-14, 15:33
Four years ago I bought a Specialized Rock Hopper 29er.

It's a better riding bike than my old Trek 850.

As for what's boring to one guy may not be for the other...I'm never bored on my bike, ever.

Plus, I ride for fitness as I can't distance run or distance inline skate anymore. My right knee has be scoped, so biking is my choice for cardio fitness.

I find that road riding a mountain bike is certainly more demanding than doing the same distance (25 miles every other day) on a road bike, thus more of a fitness return.

Some of my buddies ride plus $5000.00 bikes and I cringe at the cost they're willing to pay.

One of the guy's own a car dealership and when on his bike he refers to "those cagers" - funny stuff.

I paid $750.00 for my 29er and thought that expensive enough.

Vic303
05-13-14, 19:32
Probably be ordering one of these by the end of the year. 22# curb weight!
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b353/vic303/encore3_zps16c102e1.jpg (http://s23.photobucket.com/user/vic303/media/encore3_zps16c102e1.jpg.html)

BIGUGLY
05-31-14, 22:36
Trek series 4 has worked great for me. its last years model and if you look around you can find last years model in whatever you choose and will save you some good coin. Has worked as a kid hauler and pretty comfy with the right adjustments to the seat and handle bar height.

Vic303
06-01-14, 19:51
Picked this up last week to play around on. A 2007 Specialized Roubaix 52cm, 10spd Shimano 105, alloy frame, carbon fork and stays. Rides nice. It had maybe 50miles on it total when I bought it. It's more painful( arthritis in hands, not bike fit) to ride, but I am faster on it.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b353/vic303/20140531_120850_zps2f26cb35.jpg (http://s23.photobucket.com/user/vic303/media/20140531_120850_zps2f26cb35.jpg.html)