2-Pin vs. 3-Pin Glocks

[doughnut]

I happened upon a G34 today that had a "2-pin" 3rd Generation frame. The Glocks I have owned have all been "3-pin" frames and from what I understand, orignally Glocks had "2-pin" frames. I'm curious to know when Glock went to 3 pin frames and what was the primary need or reason. I imagine it makes the frame stronger but was there a specific problem? Would you discourage the purchase of a 2-pin gun?

[Robb Jensen]

I happened upon a G34 today that had a "2-pin" 3rd Generation frame. The Glocks I have owned have all been "3-pin" frames and from what I understand, orignally Glocks had "2-pin" frames. I'm curious to know when Glock went to 3 pin frames and what was the primary need or reason. I imagine it makes the frame stronger but was there a specific problem? Would you discourage the purchase of a 2-pin gun?

They went to 3 pin across the line for uniformity. The 9mms didn't really need it. But it saves them money making one G17/17L/22/24/31/34/35 locking block vs two different ones.

[Anjin-san]

I believe that when Glock released their .40S&W models they soon realized that they had to strengthen/stiffen the frame at the locking block due to the locking blocks breaking under the increased recoil of the .40S&W.

[tpd223]

Kind of.

The pins were breaking, and there was also some frame damage at the pin hole. The 2nd pin was to spread out the load.

[Robb Jensen]

The locking block pin limits the amount of upward tilt of the locking block. With 9mms this tilt isn't a problem. With .357SIGs, 40S&Ws, 10mms this tilt is much more severe. This is where the two gouges on the under side of the slides on .40s and 10mms comes from that new shooters to Glocks lose sleep over. These two impact points stop growing after a thousand rounds or so because the locking block can only move so much limited by the pin. Pins still crack as do locking blocks. This is why I highly recommend replacing the locking block and both the trigger and locking block pin when the locking block cracks or if a single pin cracks. I replace locking blocks and both pins as part of preventative maintenance at 10-15K rounds with my own guns.

Glock was the first .40S&W on the market even beating S&W who designed the cartridge. IMHO this rush to be first compromised the design.

S&W saw the weaknesses in the Glock and made the M&P have a steel chassis molded into the frame to reduce frame flex, Glock calls that flex in their pistols a feature... S&W also integrated the front frame rails into the locking block with the M&P. The rear frame rails are integrated into the sear block. This is wise because if you break a frame rail you don't need an entire new frame as you would on a Glock.

[platoonDaddy]

Realize this thread is 7 years old, thought I would add my $.02

Just purchased a two pin G19 CPX---US and the frame has the outline for the locking block pin. The frame mold probably was used for both the 19 & 23.

Interesting


http://i.imgur.com/arG0UVN.jpg (https://imgur.com/arG0UVN)

[DirectTo]

Realize this thread is 7 years old, thought I would add my $.02

Just purchased a two pin G19 CPX---US and the frame has the outline for the locking block pin. The frame mold probably was used for both the 19 & 23.

Interesting
This made me look at my two Gen 2s. My 17 (LD###US) has nothing there and is shinier and smoother. My 19 (AFL###US) has very, very faint marks on both sides where the third pin would be, is more dull, and has the surface texture of a Gen 3.

Learn something new every day.