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ZDL
12-08-09, 17:04
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Belmont31R
12-08-09, 17:05
I seem to remember a thread on here pertaining to this but I couldn't find it. Any suggestions on a good axe?


What are you going to be using it for? Chopping wood? Camp axe?

ZDL
12-08-09, 17:09
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JBecker 72
12-08-09, 17:10
Busting wood, your better using a maul.
Think sledge hammer with duller axe head on one end.

For camping, and cutting down small trees, a light but sharp double end axe is probably the best IMO.

As far as brands go, dont buy anything from Home Depot, Lowes etc.
You might be able to find something good at your local small hardware store.

Artos
12-08-09, 17:30
I am certainly no axe man but I use the snot out fo my Fiskar to split mesquite for the pit...

Thomas M-4
12-08-09, 17:40
I am certainly no axe man but I use the snot out fo my Fiskar to split mesquite for the pit...

I use a Fiskar also best store[sears,homedepot] bought axe I have found.

sudnit5
12-08-09, 17:42
Take your pick... :)

-CJ

http://www.thirdwayblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/05/axe-spray-1.jpg

Belmont31R
12-08-09, 18:26
I'm woefully ignorant here so, both? If that's 2 different axes, so be it. Sorry but I'm starting from the basement when it comes to knowledge on this subject. :o



Splitting wood you want a full size axe. If you use a camp axe you will be out there all day to cut a few pieces. If you want an axe to use around camp or small jobs a full size axe is too big.


So yes you need two. 1 for each job/task.


You don't need to spend a lot of money but don't get the cheapest thing you can find. For an occasional use type of thing you can get a Fiskars or Esting camp axe at Home Depot, and they will do ok. If its a heavy duty use item you want to buy from a place that axes is all they do.

Also need to look up online how to sharpen a camp axe. They need to be pretty sharp to get through younger more flexible wood you find around camp. A wood splitting axe doesnt need to be razor sharp as you are more splitting than cutting. You also need some good wedges for splitting wood, and a medium sledge. The maul mentioned can do both but its easier to have two tools in many cases.

JBecker 72
12-08-09, 19:03
I sometimes use a wedge too for splitting.
Since I got out of the Army Ive been cutting down trees for a living, so I have a fair amount of experience with hand tools.

My employer supplies all our tools for the job, but I know the stuff he gets come from arborist specific types of stores.
I cant remember any of the brands, but I could check tomorrow at work on specifically what I use and abuse on a daily basis.

GMZ
12-08-09, 19:16
Fiskars or Estwing would be my input, at least until you determine what exactly fits your needs. Itd be a pity to pony up for a GB and find that you dont use it much for what you do. Snow and Neally is a good rather inexpensive (<$100) US made brand. Gransfors Bruks is Swedish and considered top of the line but several hundred bucks. I think Lehmans has quite a few different brands.

Tangotag
12-08-09, 19:44
For a lightweight handy brush clearing and light chopping I use a Hudson Bay Axe.
Pick up an Axe Guard and a mill bastard file too.
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=15888&catID=10344

rlgdestroyu@hotmail.com
12-08-09, 19:49
I prefer Fenders or Jacksons....great "axes" depending on what you play.:)

Drummer
12-08-09, 21:10
Pick your poison:
http://www.gransfors.us/axes.html

NinjaMedic
12-09-09, 01:31
The best value/most versatile in my opinion is an 8lb Flat Head Axe with polymer handle that you can get from any emergency equipment supplier such as thefirestore.com

kaiservontexas
12-09-09, 01:35
For a camp I pack a Gransfors Bruks hunter's axe. Axes come in a massive variety because not just one will do all jobs. Think about what the axe will be needed for and go from there.

ZDL
12-09-09, 02:39
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JStor
12-09-09, 08:34
I carry a lightweight Estwing under the back seat of my truck. It has a longer handle than the typical hatchet. Anything this light is more for cutting small saplings to shove under the wheels if you're stuck or for trimming small branches. It's advantage is its carrying weight.

For real wood chopping, you want something heavier, so the weight will add to the cutting force. For splitting wood for burning, do yourself a favor and build or buy a hydraulic splitter. They will last a lifetime and your body will thank you when you get older. I have used my home built splitter to process a lot of firewood over the years.

Dave Berryhill
12-09-09, 08:44
http://guitar.lovetoknow.com/images/Guitar/thumb/9/93/Gene_Simmons_AXE.jpg/250px-Gene_Simmons_AXE.jpg

Did someone say axe?

smithjd
12-09-09, 09:01
I split a fair amount of wood with a maul. Go with the synthetic handle, it will last MUCH longer. I went through a couple wood handles and then just bought a hardware store maul with the yellow fiberglass handle. Darn near indestructible.

I've got an old double sided axe with a wood handle I take to go camping. If / when that handle breaks, I'll replace it with they yellow one. I'm no purist, just want it to last.

45mike
12-09-09, 09:01
I have been borning wood for close to 40 years and fi9nd that 2 different size axes are desirable. I lke a 3 # for vehicle carry and a 5# axe for splitting. I also carry a bow saw in my truck as well just because. I sometimes use a maul and wedges to split wood as wellm but I have to admit a hydraulic splitter has spoiled me these last 20+ years. Chainsaws are also worth theie price if you're serious about burning wood. My 2 Cents worth.

MIKE G
12-09-09, 11:02
.....

Safetyhit
12-09-09, 11:48
I'm woefully ignorant here so, both? If that's 2 different axes, so be it. Sorry but I'm starting from the basement when it comes to knowledge on this subject. :o



A grown man who knows nothing about axes nor how to chop wood?

You criticize me for what I said, but see, this is what a steady diet of south park has done to you. Instead of chopping some wood, you are watching logs of crap talk.



Just kidding, I had to. :D

Think you were referring to the tomahawk thread here some time ago. Either way, go with the polymer handle. The thicker the blade at the back (non-chopping side), the better for splitting. The thinner, the better for chopping.