S&W Locked vs. Unlocked J frames

[nutnless220]

........

[John_Wayne777]

Can someone explain the differences between a locked and unlocked J frame?

Why is the locked preferable?
And how would you convert a locked to an unlocked?

Thanks!

The "locked" guns have S&W's internal safety lock. These locks can spontaneously engage, instantly turning the gun into a paper weight. It has been documented on a number of S&W revolvers from the ultralight scandium/titanium guns to the aluminum framed guns.

Conversion is simple...open up the revolver, remove the hammer and then remove the lock's components.

[68fan]

I purchased a 642 Airweight without the lock from my local dealer. As I recall, he just specified "no lock" when he put in the order. So, if you haven't purchased yet, try ordering that way to save yourself the grief later on.

[nutnless220]

.........

[dojpros]

There are a number of what appear to be quality you tube videos on lock removal that seem to go step by step.


I too love my 642..and bought it used without the lock.

[sff70]

I would not buy a j frame that has the lock on it.

Saw one lock up during a string of fire recently, all by itself.

Fortunately this was in training, not on the street.

[Alpha Sierra]

I would not buy a j frame that has the lock on it.

Saw one lock up during a string of fire recently, all by itself.

Fortunately this was in training, not on the street.

Is there any reason you would not just simply remove the offending parts?

[LockenLoad]

Is there any reason you would not just simply remove the offending parts?

no none at all

[sff70]

Have no idea if it's possible to simply remove them, or not, and if that causes any additional problems.

Does anyone know for sure?

For an individual owner to remove them is one thing, but for a 2nd party to remove them is quite another matter. I doubt that S&W would remove them or that any S&W trained armorer would remove them.

Easier to simply find a used non-lock model, or perhaps to find one of the recent run of j frames that was made sans lock.

[Alpha Sierra]

Have no idea if it's possible to simply remove them, or not, and if that causes any additional problems.

Does anyone know for sure?

For an individual owner to remove them is one thing, but for a 2nd party to remove them is quite another matter. I doubt that S&W would remove them or that any S&W trained armorer would remove them.

Easier to simply find a used non-lock model, or perhaps to find one of the recent run of j frames that was made sans lock.

I do know for sure.

It is dirt easy to remove the lock arm and its return spring. Once those parts are out the gun works exactly like S&W revolvers have since about 1896.

Its removal causes no problems at all, either operationally or legally.

I've done it to both my S&W revolvers (one a J frame and one a K frame) that came with the lock. I don't really care if no one will remove them for me. That's what the Kunhausen shop manual is for.

There are video tutorials on youtube showing exactly how to do it.

[Hayduke]

this is good info, i have a line on a used 642 for a great deal from a friend and it has the lock.
my question before watching the youtube vids: after removing the parts is the part where the cuff key goes in still there or is there a hole now in the frame?

[John_Wayne777]

this is good info, i have a line on a used 642 for a great deal from a friend and it has the lock.
my question before watching the youtube vids: after removing the parts is the part where the cuff key goes in still there or is there a hole now in the frame?

You can do it either way. On my locked guns I just remove every piece of the lock and leave the hole there. It's not the most aesthetically pleasing thing in the world, but it doesn't bother me any. I think there's a dude on the S&W forums who is selling plugs for the holes that make the lock scar almost invisible.

[DrMark]

You can do it either way. On my locked guns I just remove every piece of the lock and leave the hole there. It's not the most aesthetically pleasing thing in the world, but it doesn't bother me any. I think there's a dude on the S&W forums who is selling plugs for the holes that make the lock scar almost invisible.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/accessories-misc-sale-trade/112992-replace-lock-plug.html

[sigmundsauer]

Don't let the lock, or lack thereof, prevent you from owning an excellent S&W revolver.

If you're not shooting full-house .357s in a Sc J-Frame or .44 Mags in the Sc N-Frame it ought never be an issue.

My 327PD and 342PD, both with locks, are among my absolute favorite revolvers.

Tim

[DrMark]

Don't let the lock, or lack thereof, prevent you from owning an excellent S&W revolver.

If you're not shooting full-house .357s in a Sc J-Frame or .44 Mags in the Sc N-Frame it ought never be an issue.

My 327PD and 342PD, both with locks, are among my absolute favorite revolvers.

JW_777 says it happens with the aluminum-framed ones too...

Guns that have extraneous mechanical devices that cause lock-up are not guns that I'd categorize as excellent.

[PT Doc]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVPYgohVCNM


10 minute job at most.

[sff70]

Glad to hear it's easily solved at the user level.

[ST911]

Don't let the lock, or lack thereof, prevent you from owning an excellent S&W revolver.

If you're not shooting full-house .357s in a Sc J-Frame or .44 Mags in the Sc N-Frame it ought never be an issue.

Tim

Unfortunately, that's not true.

[John_Wayne777]

Don't let the lock, or lack thereof, prevent you from owning an excellent S&W revolver.

If you're not shooting full-house .357s in a Sc J-Frame or .44 Mags in the Sc N-Frame it ought never be an issue.

My 327PD and 342PD, both with locks, are among my absolute favorite revolvers.

Tim

I wish that were the case. The guys on the S&W forums have documented it on aluminum framed .38 revolvers as well. I had a partial engagement of the lock on my S&W 317...a .22LR. I fired about 600 rounds through it on my first range trip and towards the end of the session the action froze up. I looked down at the revolver and noticed that the lock flag was partially raised.

I had the key with me just in case of such an event and that returned the revolver to working condition long enough to finish my range session. (About 75 rounds)

The 317 is just a range gun so it doesn't bother me on that revolver...but if I can make it happen with a .22 basically plinking, there's no way in hell I'm going to leave the lock on a carry gun.

[sigmundsauer]

I wish that were the case. The guys on the S&W forums have documented it on aluminum framed .38 revolvers as well. I had a partial engagement of the lock on my S&W 317...a .22LR. I fired about 600 rounds through it on my first range trip and towards the end of the session the action froze up. I looked down at the revolver and noticed that the lock flag was partially raised.

I had the key with me just in case of such an event and that returned the revolver to working condition long enough to finish my range session. (About 75 rounds)

The 317 is just a range gun so it doesn't bother me on that revolver...but if I can make it happen with a .22 basically plinking, there's no way in hell I'm going to leave the lock on a carry gun.

If I had that experience, I'd be concerned too. Fortunately both my 342PD and 327PD have never balked even with the stoutest of loads.

Still the probability is unlikely that most will have a problem. I don't doubt one bit that malfunctions have occurred with the lock but am resistant to the idea that is as big of a problem across the board as has been reported. I may be naive.

Tim

[Alpha Sierra]

If I had that experience, I'd be concerned too. Fortunately both my 342PD and 327PD have never balked even with the stoutest of loads.

Still the probability is unlikely that most will have a problem. I don't doubt one bit that malfunctions have occurred with the lock but am resistant to the idea that is as big of a problem across the board as has been reported. I may be naive.

Tim

The problem's occurance probability does not have to be large when the consequences of the occurance are catastrophic.

Basic FMEA 101.