Duracoating 1911s

[Outlander Systems]

One of my new year's resolutions is to finish the 1911 I've had laying around for almost two years.

I'm still in the process of assembling parts for the "gutting" and replacing the original MIM bullshit that came with the shooting iron.

Big on the list is a refinishing. I'm leaning towards Duracoat or Durabake.

Any tips, tricks, hints, or advice is welcomed with doing this on the 1911 platform.

Are there any areas I should stay away from?

[andre3k]

One of my new year's resolutions is to finish the 1911 I've had laying around for almost two years.

I'm still in the process of assembling parts for the "gutting" and replacing the original MIM bullshit that came with the shooting iron.

Big on the list is a refinishing. I'm leaning towards Duracoat or Durabake.

Any tips, tricks, hints, or advice is welcomed with doing this on the 1911 platform.

Are there any areas I should stay away from?

I've had experience with duracoat on one of my glocks and it works just ok. You can definitely see the wear spots and signs of daily usage after a year or so. On the other hand I've refinished some AR parts and a glock 24 slide with Norrells moly resin and its really doesn't show much wear after after two years since I sprayed it. Most people tend to shy away from Norrells because you have to preheat the items that you spray and then bake them afterwards. But the prep and extra steps are well worth it. I got very professional looking finish and I did it in the garage and used my house oven to do the baking.

[John_Wayne777]

I duracoated a couple of 1911 Sistema guns I got from Lipseys a while back.

The results are meh...

If you leave the finish to cure for a few weeks it's much tougher than the results after 48 hours. The finish wears significantly. It's easy to apply with an airbrush, and multiple thin coats applied after each previous coat has thoroughly hardened will add to durability somewhat...but the end result is not what I'd want on a daily carried blaster.

YMMV.

[Dos Cylindros]

Make sure you seal off the feed ramp on the inside of the frame and don't cote it. Make sure it has a good polish, but no cote.

[Outlander Systems]

I duracoated a couple of 1911 Sistema guns I got from Lipseys a while back.

The results are meh...

If you leave the finish to cure for a few weeks it's much tougher than the results after 48 hours. The finish wears significantly. It's easy to apply with an airbrush, and multiple thin coats applied after each previous coat has thoroughly hardened will add to durability somewhat...but the end result is not what I'd want on a daily carried blaster.

YMMV.

Any other recommendations? This isn't for looks; the blued finish from the factory has a very severe propensity to rub off, and I'm constantly battling rust.

[LockenLoad]

cerakote and microslick

[John_Wayne777]

Any other recommendations? This isn't for looks; the blued finish from the factory has a very severe propensity to rub off, and I'm constantly battling rust.

For a DIY solution I'd take a look at some of the painted AR's and see what those guys are using. Those AR junkies are pretty smart sometimes...:D

For a daily carry gun that's having rust issues, I would give careful consideration to having it professionally refinished in something like hard chrome or melonite, both of which are extremely durable and corrosion resistant. It will cost a bit more, but the end result is going to be about as good as it gets.

[Boris]

Have you considered Parkerizing?

http://bcidpa.files.wordpress.com/2009/10/dsc00301.jpg

[Outlander Systems]

Have you considered Parkerizing?

http://bcidpa.files.wordpress.com/2009/10/dsc00301.jpg

Nice sight. I'm open to just about anything. I just don't know anyone 'round here that offers refinishing services like Parkerising, Cerakote, etc.


For a DIY solution I'd take a look at some of the painted AR's and see what those guys are using. Those AR junkies are pretty smart sometimes...:D

For a daily carry gun that's having rust issues, I would give careful consideration to having it professionally refinished in something like hard chrome or melonite, both of which are extremely durable and corrosion resistant. It will cost a bit more, but the end result is going to be about as good as it gets.

If I were to follow the AR trends, I'd probably be at the 'Mart, scoring some matte black Krylon...

The only areas I'm really having rust issues with are on the exterior of the slide. I'd love to do a *real* refinishing job, but don't know of anyone in the area that does anything in that realm of expertise. This makes me feel like I'm stuck DIY'ing it.

Does Durabake offer anything over Duracoat other than a faster cure time?

[cfrazier]

PM sent

[SeriousStudent]

I've read some of of gotm4's posts, and Robb uses the Norell's moly resin a fair bit. The results he gets look pretty durable. I know that his weapons are not safe queens, he and his wife shoot quite a bit.

You might search on some of his posts, he's pretty good about passing on details.

Good luck with your project, I'm really interested in seeing the result. Please post some photos when you are done. :)

[Dave Berryhill]

I've not used Duracoat but I have used Gun Kote and Cerakote. Surface prep is the key and is the same for most of the spray finishes. All parts need to be cleaned/degreased, blasted with aluminum oxide or other sharp media, cleaned again and then coated. Parkerizing is an excellent base coat and if you can do that prior to coating then the results tend to be even better.

Don't use glass beads to blast with. They are round balls of glass that peen the surface but don't leave the surface rough enough for good adhesion. Aluminum oxide has sharp edges that cut into the surface of the metal.

[David Thomas]

Nice sight. I'm open to just about anything. I just don't know anyone 'round here that offers refinishing services like Parkerising, Cerakote, etc.





Steve Morrison at MARS Armament parkerized one of my 1911's and it still looks good after 1 year of CW everyday here in LA. I like the looks of a parkerized gun; however, it may not compare to a Ionbond or Melonite.
I never have to worry about rst though.


Duracoat is not my favorite finish becuase it scratches very easily with Kydex and wears easily with use.

[murphy j]

All my 1911s have been parkerized with the exception of one. I love parkerisation because it's such an inexpensive, simple process and is easy to re-do when needed. Depending on the gun I'd vote for parkerizing it, but you will get holster wear and such.

[Joe_Friday]

NC, I am having the same problem, a 1911 laying in pieces that needs to be refinished bad. I did find one place that is not far from ATL in Warner Robins though and they appear to have good pricing on parkerizing and/or duracoating.

http://www.oakridgecustomfinishing.com/index.html

I have absolutely no affiliation with the company and do not know of anyone who has used them though so take it with a grain of salt. I should be going back to ATL in a few months and I plan on stopping by and taking a look myself.
Good Luck and please post if you find someone else around you that can do the work.