Glock NY1 Spring and 3.5 Connector

[S500N]

Despite having run Glock OEM NY1 springs and 3.5 connectors for a while, I still prefer the feel of the standard connector and coil spring and am considering changing back. My only concern is the durability of the standard coil springs, as I know there have been some breakage issues in the past. Does anyone know if the current crop of coil springs have resolved these issues?

Also, does anybody run a NY1 spring with the coil spring removed leaving only the polymer? If so, do you consider this set up good to go for CCW or should it be relegated to range use/competition only?

Thanks

[ToddG]

(1) The standard coil springs are more durable now and have been for a while. The real change was to the trigger bar itself.

(2) I ran the 3.5/NY1 (minus steel spring) for a while. It reduced the trigger pull a bit but also reduced the reset force, which pretty much canceled out the whole reason for using the 3.5/NY setup in the first place.

[NCPatrolAR]

Despite having run Glock OEM NY1 springs and 3.5 connectors for a while, I still prefer the feel of the standard connector and coil spring and am considering changing back. My only concern is the durability of the standard coil springs, as I know there have been some breakage issues in the past. Does anyone know if the current crop of coil springs have resolved these issues?

Also, does anybody run a NY1 spring with the coil spring removed leaving only the polymer? If so, do you consider this set up good to go for CCW or should it be relegated to range use/competition only?

Thanks


I just recently made the transition from the NY1/(-) connector to a standard spring/(-) connector. I went to the NY1 setup becuse my 19 would break trigger springs every 500 rounds or so. When I did the conversion I also swapped out the trigger bar since I heard this was the true source of the issue.

[Robb Jensen]

With my Glock 17, 19 and 26 I use Ghost standard 3.5lb connectors and NY1 olive trigger springs (all other springs are stock/OEM Glock). With a little polishing here and there and trying a few different trigger bars you can get a very nice clean breaking snappy ass reset for Glocks.

[Paul45]

I have gone back to the std connector and the Wolff extra power trigger spring (with some polishing). Lightens the pull but nice reset.

[MAP]

With my Glock 17, 19 and 26 I use Ghost standard 3.5lb connectors and NY1 olive trigger springs (all other springs are stock/OEM Glock). With a little polishing here and there and trying a few different trigger bars you can get a very nice clean breaking snappy ass reset for Glocks.

Robb,

Can you elaborate on the different trigger bars?

Thanks

[Robb Jensen]

Robb,

Can you elaborate on the different trigger bars?

Thanks

Because these parts are mass produced the amount of sear engagement between the striker and the rear portion of the trigger bar varies. If you try several trigger bars you can sometimes find one that feels almost like a 3.5lb connector using a standard 5lb connector. We usually have several in stock so when I'm setting up one of my own guns I have usually 10-12 I can try out. Once I find one that has a really nice pull with a 5lb connector I keep that trigger bar and then try a few different 3.5.b connectors (I use Ghost connectors), there's not that much difference between connectors. Then I get to polishing. I use a felt bob and SimiChrome, I do not remove metal. I only polish to a very bright chrome finish. I polish the tail end of trigger bar where it pushes against the striker, the area where the trigger bar rubs the connector, on the connector where the trigger bar rubs. I polish the hell out of the left tab that rides around in the trigger housing top and bottom and the bottom side of the trigger bar where the NY1 spring will push against it. I polish the portion that pushes up against the firing pin safety and I polish the face of the firing pin where the trigger bar contacts it and the areas of the firing pin where it slides back and forth on the spacer sleeve. I also polish the firing pin safety where the trigger bar pushes up against it. I then clean everything off with Breakfree Powder Blast and then compressed air. Reassemble everything and lube it up with Militec or Weaponshield. And then do all the safety tests and dry fire it a little.

It does seem that Glock has tightened up the tolerances on these parts though. They used to vary quite a bit from one gun to the other. Many new Glocks have pretty nice triggers right out of the box and the consistency of the pull weight/smoothness is pretty close between then lately. Glock has made a few changes recently the slide and the barrels, they now have a different finish that they did even 1 year ago. The slide are a flatter black and not a slick and the barrels are now a very dark gray graphite color instead of black.

[MAP]

Because these parts are mass produced the amount of sear engagement between the striker and the rear portion of the trigger bar varies. If you try several trigger bars you can sometimes find one that feels almost like a 3.5lb connector using a standard 5lb connector. We usually have several in stock so when I'm setting up one of my own guns I have usually 10-12 I can try out. Once I find one that has a really nice pull with a 5lb connector I keep that trigger bar and then try a few different 3.5.b connectors (I use Ghost connectors), there's not that much difference between connectors. Then I get to polishing. I use a felt bob and SimiChrome, I do not remove metal. I only polish to a very bright chrome finish. I polish the tail end of trigger bar where it pushes against the striker, the area where the trigger bar rubs the connector, on the connector where the trigger bar rubs. I polish the hell out of the left tab that rides around in the trigger housing top and bottom and the bottom side of the trigger bar where the NY1 spring will push against it. I polish the portion that pushes up against the firing pin safety and I polish the face of the firing pin where the trigger bar contacts it and the areas of the firing pin where it slides back and forth on the spacer sleeve. I also polish the firing pin safety where the trigger bar pushes up against it. I then clean everything off with Breakfree Powder Blast and then compressed air. Reassemble everything and lube it up with Militec or Weaponshield. And then do all the safety tests and dry fire it a little.

It does seem that Glock has tightened up the tolerances on these parts though. They used to vary quite a bit from one gun to the other. Many new Glocks have pretty nice triggers right out of the box and the consistency of the pull weight/smoothness is pretty close between then lately. Glock has made a few changes recently the slide and the barrels, they now have a different finish that they did even 1 year ago. The slide are a flatter black and not a slick and the barrels are now a very dark gray graphite color instead of black.

Thank you!

[DacoRoman]

I have a NY1 polymer spring minus the coiled spring portion with a "-" connector in one Glock and I like it. For me it almost constitutes a sweet spot if you will. It is obviously lighter than with the coiled spring in place, yet it definitely increases the reset force and it does make the first stage of the trigger pull noticeably heavier than when the "S" spring is used. Also with the coiled spring out you don't have to worry about the trigger being in the forward "cocked" position all the time, something of questionable advantage since you always have to chamber check every time you pick up your pistol (especially a Glock, and especially a Glock with a trigger in the "cocked" position), but I do like the trigger to be in the rearward position when the action isn't cocked.