View Full Version : Magpul MBUS windage marks
hoytshooter
02-03-10, 07:49
I was wondering if any of you lads would post a photo of the windage marks on a rear MBUS. Are the marks etched into the polymer?
ForTehNguyen
02-03-10, 07:52
there are no windage marks. If you want to mechanical zero it, you gotta eyeball it
hoytshooter
02-03-10, 08:38
Really? Man, that's a little low budget. Oh well, thanks for the info!
CaptainDooley
02-03-10, 08:41
Well, they are half of what any other folding BUIS seems to go for...
hoytshooter
02-03-10, 08:47
I still would like to swoop up a pair, but now I'm a little more on the fence. ForTehNguyen is right, even with the windage marks, I'd still have to eye ball it and see where it hit like normal sights....
It's not like BUIS windage marks are anything more than a general idea of positioning anyways...
Eyeball it?! Hell, no!
If you want to mechanically zero it, perhaps consider using the mechanism to figure out where the no-shit center is:
1. Run the aperture all the way to one side, don't bother to count clicks, doesn't matter yet.
2. Then, run it all the way to the other while counting the number of clicks.
3. Divide total number of available clicks (might not always be the same because you never know how drunk the little old lady at the factory was that day) by 2. Total clicks may be an odd number, be prepared for this and DO NOT panic. It's okay. Breathe, and make a decision, you big Nancy.
4. Run the aperture back toward the middle by the number of clicks you came up with in step 3.
EXAMPLE: L to R ends up being 88 clicks, therefore the mechanical zero of my current BUIS is 44 clicks from extreme left or right.
You can't mechanically zero many optics out there, as lots aren't designed with hard stops on the adjustment drums/screws/knobs/whatever. You'll end up ganking it, so RTFM.
Irons, though...I have yet to find a rear sight you couldn't mechanically zero using the above methodology.
CaptainDooley
02-03-10, 09:06
That was the most entertaining posts I've read in a while. "Breathe, make a decision, you big Nancy" is advice I seem to give on a daily basis and quite frankly it was refreshing to see someone else with my point of view/reference.
And now, back to your regularly scheduled post...
Eyeball it?! Hell, no!
If you want to mechanically zero it, perhaps consider using the mechanism to figure out where the no-shit center is:
1. Run the aperture all the way to one side, don't bother to count clicks, doesn't matter yet.
2. Then, run it all the way to the other while counting the number of clicks.
3. Divide total number of available clicks (might not always be the same because you never know how drunk the little old lady at the factory was that day) by 2. Total clicks may be an odd number, be prepared for this and DO NOT panic. It's okay. Breathe, and make a decision, you big Nancy.
4. Run the aperture back toward the middle by the number of clicks you came up with in step 3.
EXAMPLE: L to R ends up being 88 clicks, therefore the mechanical zero of my current BUIS is 44 clicks from extreme left or right.
You can't mechanically zero many optics out there, as lots aren't designed with hard stops on the adjustment drums/screws/knobs/whatever. You'll end up ganking it, so RTFM.
Irons, though...I have yet to find a rear sight you couldn't mechanically zero using the above methodology.
;)
http://http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1713 (http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1713)
Eyeball it?! Hell, no!
If you want to mechanically zero it, perhaps consider using the mechanism to figure out where the no-shit center is:
1. Run the aperture all the way to one side, don't bother to count clicks, doesn't matter yet.
2. Then, run it all the way to the other while counting the number of clicks.
3. Divide total number of available clicks (might not always be the same because you never know how drunk the little old lady at the factory was that day) by 2. Total clicks may be an odd number, be prepared for this and DO NOT panic. It's okay. Breathe, and make a decision, you big Nancy.
4. Run the aperture back toward the middle by the number of clicks you came up with in step 3.
EXAMPLE: L to R ends up being 88 clicks, therefore the mechanical zero of my current BUIS is 44 clicks from extreme left or right.
You can't mechanically zero many optics out there, as lots aren't designed with hard stops on the adjustment drums/screws/knobs/whatever. You'll end up ganking it, so RTFM.
Irons, though...I have yet to find a rear sight you couldn't mechanically zero using the above methodology.
Great post!
Sure, that'll mechanically zero the sight, but what bearing does that have on where the weapon prints? :D If the weapon's windage is zeroed with the sights mechanically zeroed, go buy a lottery ticket - it's your lucky day.
(Unless, of course, you have one of those setscrew windage adjustable FSBs like the High Power people use...)
Great post!
but what bearing does that have on where the weapon prints?
(Unless, of course, you have one of those setscrew windage adjustable FSBs like the High Power people use...)
It really doesn't, it's just a starting point for you to get your battlesight zero.
ForTehNguyen
02-03-10, 10:02
mechanical zero doesnt seem to mean anything in the end once you zero. I had to go over 12 clicks. But mechanical zero a nice starting point!
Knowing mechanical zero, being able to quantify zero, is useful for folks having gang-zeroed guns, bored LCDs that will sit and dick with them, or other reason to frequently verify adjustment. For the rest, zero them, make a witness mark, and move on.
Sure, that'll mechanically zero the sight, but what bearing does that have on where the weapon prints? :D If the weapon's windage is zeroed with the sights mechanically zeroed, go buy a lottery ticket - it's your lucky day.
Indeed. That'd be the dream, right?
As others have stated, it's merely an absolute known starting point to use, particularly with issued or group guns that may or may not have been shot, prior to your receiving it, by some guy that got kicked in the head by a cow when he was 3 and has an eye so wonky it practically sees into the future.
His zero might not even be on the same grid square as yours, and the only way to truly KNOW where to take the thing is to start from the lowest common denominator, which is the center of the adjustable range of motion.
ETA: Hoyt, The MBUSs will work for you just fine. The front is more likely to be tricky, not to adjust, but to set it in place once adjusted. Combo of blue Loctite and the pin they provide with it makes it set, but it's a PITA to re-set.
hoytshooter
02-03-10, 13:47
Getting it to zero is only an issue of spending the time and the bullets at the range, which is what I like to do anyway. I don't need any fancy etching or windage marks to see where on the sight is zero. I'll just dial it in and mark it so if it does move, I know where it was last zeroed in.
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