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SHIVAN
02-22-10, 18:22
Ok, I see the obvious that the little tit needs to be depressed and then the tabs squeezed a little to clear the baseplate. Problem is, I am applying some pretty stout force to the sides of the mag, and the ears are not budging. I even tried using an Irwin Quick-Grip (http://www.powertoolbiz.co.uk/Site/1/Images/Manufacturers/Irwin/T512QCEL7/1.jpg) to apply more force than I figured I was applying with my fingers.

No joy. What am I missing?

Quiet-Matt
02-22-10, 18:27
Squeezing the sides never works for me either. I use a punch to depress the button in the floorplate and while I have it in the hole use the punch to slide the plate off. This may be way wrong, but it works.

wantsum
02-22-10, 18:56
You could try this... http://www.mygtul.com/index.php

SHIVAN
02-22-10, 19:04
That little tool looks slick but I beat the mags using a vise grip, and 5/32nd punch, and a piece of leather to keep the VG's from marring the mag.

Silly to need all that, or even a separate tool....aye...

30 cal slut
02-22-10, 19:16
you know, i have the same darn problem.

i don't know where i'm short-bussing, but i have a bunch of real dirty glock mags lying in a pile waiting to be cleaned.

YVK
02-22-10, 20:38
Same here, never had easy time taking apart G-mags.

P2000
02-22-10, 20:41
You need a table/desk with a sharp edge. You can hold the mag, depress the button and push the mag down towards the floor, and the sharp edge catches on the floorplate. Works perfect for me.

SHIVAN
02-22-10, 20:46
Short of the vise grips squeezing the sides, the sides on my mags were not deflecting anywhere near enough to slide off. I'm certain I could have yanked them off, but no way they were going to slide off without extra pressure from a tool.

I've got pretty good finger and grip strength, but geeze oh man...

KS Trekker
02-22-10, 20:49
You need a table/desk with a sharp edge. You can hold the mag, depress the button and push the mag down towards the floor, and the sharp edge catches on the floorplate. Works perfect for me.

+1 this method works pretty good for me. I've also used a pair of Channelocks to squeeze the bottom of the mag.

12glocks
02-22-10, 20:51
I hold the mag body in my left hand on push down on one corner of the base plate, typically on my bench. At the same time I put that little Glock tool through the detent and pull up on the base plate.

A Glock armorer showed me this at a Glock match and it works great. The new generation generation of Glocks mags (the models with the mag release in the front as well as the side) have additional detents that hold the base plate in place. It is harder to remove this base plates but this trick still works.

Robb Jensen
02-22-10, 21:27
I've got pretty good finger and grip strength, but geeze oh man...

Next time you come by the store I'll show you how I do it.
I use hand strengh and a Glock tool.....nothing else. The shorter the mag the harder it is to do.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJq_gYUPqQU&feature=related

JohnN
02-22-10, 22:50
You could try this... http://www.mygtul.com/index.php

I've got one of these and they work pretty well.

johnson
02-22-10, 23:05
This is how I do it. Just the Glock tool and hand strength.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uB28dFAMVQc

Chameleox
02-22-10, 23:50
I've also bused the glock tool to depress the little tab, and then try to scrape the back of the baseplate and the bottom of the mag tube against a solid object with a 90 degree edge, like a table, countertop, or door frame. Watch for flying springs.

HKUSP.40
02-23-10, 00:04
When I put the finger extensions on my Glock 27 10 rnd mags I used a vice grip w/ a cloth towel between the mag and the vice grip to keep from scratching and a punch for the button and the base plate came right off.

one
02-23-10, 01:25
Hey SHIVAN,

Just insert the Glock armorer's tool through the hole in the base plate, moving the internal retaining pin/plate out of the way. Your punch will be at somewhat of an angle at that point. Then push the tool forward. Base plate will slip right off.

tpd223
02-23-10, 01:46
New Glock mags are a PITA.

I avoid the squeezing of the mags as I have seen a couple junked from doing so. Whenever I hear the words "vice grips" when talking about guns I cringe as much as when I here "Dremel tool".

I do what either P2000 describes or what is shown on the video, never had an issue.

For the record, I previously had WAY more experience than the average guy with Glock mags, since I've taken every mag my PD owns apart on more than one occasion, so we are talking thousands of disassembles per year when I was our range guy.

Quiet-Matt
02-23-10, 04:16
This is how I do it. Just the Glock tool and hand strength.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uB28dFAMVQc

Thats the technique I use.

Joe Mamma
02-23-10, 16:05
Once you get it apart, you may want to take a razor blade and cut those tiny little raised "bumps" off. The bumps are the ones that are on the mag body and fit into the baseplate notches.

That's what I do and it makes life much better. :)

Joe Mamma

skyugo
02-23-10, 20:26
you really have to apply some serious pressure to slide the baseplate off...

if you've got a screwdriver that fits in the hole in the baseplate you can use that for leverage.
the "glock tool" (that brass pen looking thing) does not like to be used on mags. the punch is too soft.

markm
02-23-10, 20:39
Squeezing the sides never works for me either.

I can't believe people suggest squeezing. Is that actually taught somewhere? Seems a good way to damage mag bodies.

A 1/8" punch pushed up in through the floor plate and a firm swipe and the plate is off. It takes a little practice to get the right amount of punch to stick in the plate. But once you get the hang of it, it's stupid easy.

Chameleox
02-23-10, 20:58
The most recent armorer's manual recommends using the armorer's punch to slide the base off. However, it says that the squeezing method might still help on older magazines.
I can't imagine putting enough force on the sides of the magazine to deform them enough to cause damage- with my bare hands.

markm
02-23-10, 21:03
I can't imagine putting enough force on the sides of the magazine to deform them enough to cause damage- with my bare hands.

Indeed. But I can remember in the old days, dudes over on ARF would be like.... "get some vice grips and...." :rolleyes:

Chameleox
02-23-10, 21:06
Or a dremel...

SHIVAN
02-23-10, 21:44
I used vise grips, and applied just enough pressure to deflect the tabs ~1/64th of an inch, or less, to clear the baseplate. There is such a thing as proper use of a tool, without crushing the holy hell out of something.

The alternative of just ripping the baseplate with the punch inserted seemed far more "dremel fluting job" then using a tool to deflect the tabs a minuscule fraction of an inch.

Quiet-Matt
02-24-10, 05:03
Here's what you quoted me as saying markm
Squeezing the sides never works for me either.


I can't believe people suggest squeezing. Is that actually taught somewhere? Seems a good way to damage mag bodies.

A 1/8" punch pushed up in through the floor plate and a firm swipe and the plate is off. It takes a little practice to get the right amount of punch to stick in the plate. But once you get the hang of it, it's stupid easy.

Wow, thanks! Maybe you should have read the rest of my post that you quoted::rolleyes:

Squeezing the sides never works for me either. I use a punch to depress the button in the floorplate and while I have it in the hole use the punch to slide the plate off. This may be way wrong, but it works.

Singlestack Wonder
02-24-10, 05:47
It's a common misconception that the mag bases are difficult to remove and that the base of the magazine needs to be "squeezed" to allow the base pad to slide of the retaining tabs. The magazine bottom should not be squeezed together to remove the pads as this could start to deform the inner liner. Using a Glock tool from Glock (super hard rod, tennifer treated), the base removal take 1 second with little to no pressure required. Removing the tabs from the base of the magazine to ease in the base pad removal defeats the dual redundancy provided by the Glock design for base pad security.

Joe Mamma
02-24-10, 08:06
One other thing, I don't think the Glock tool in the hole method works with all Glock magazines. For example, I don't think it works with 10 round Glock 17 mags. I haven't played with them in a while, but I think that's the way it is.

Joe Mamma

Singlestack Wonder
02-24-10, 09:12
The Glock Tool works fine with 10 round versions. Use the tool to depress the floorplate enough to clear the mag base and pull forward with the tool as demonstrated in the Glock Armorers Manual. I have a 10 round mag here and it works fine.

markm
02-24-10, 16:59
Here's what you quoted me as saying markm

Wow, thanks! Maybe you should have read the rest of my post that you quoted::rolleyes:

Yeah. I wasn't really replying DIRECTLY to you... I was just throwing the technique I use from seeing Glockmeister take them apart.

Sorry if you were emotionally destroyed by my reply. :confused:

uwe1
02-25-10, 02:44
I start by sticking a punch into the hole in the base plate and leaving it there. Then I've got a couple sets of mini-screwdrivers and I take the smallest two straight edge ones and gently wedge them (perpendicular to the mag body and parallel to the baseplate) between the magazine body and baseplate until they're stuck there (from friction) and have slightly widened the baseplate where it contacts the "ears". Grab onto the punch and slide te baseplate off.


I used vise grips, and applied just enough pressure to deflect the tabs ~1/64th of an inch, or less, to clear the baseplate. There is such a thing as proper use of a tool, without crushing the holy hell out of something.

The alternative of just ripping the baseplate with the punch inserted seemed far more "dremel fluting job" then using a tool to deflect the tabs a minuscule fraction of an inch.