View Full Version : New to .223Rem reloading
PoconoChris
02-25-10, 23:12
Hi all,
I have been reloading rifle bullets for a few years and plan to start reloading .223Rem. I just bought a Smith & Wesson M&P15OR (1 in 9 twist) rifle that shoot .223 or 5.56 and I really enjoy shooting it. I'm starting to gather a lot of brass. I am reloading these to save some money, get better accuracy, and because I like reloading and ammo testing. I just though I'd ask some questions that might help me save time and money because this is the first time I am reloading for a semi action and in a new caliber.
I have an older version (70's) of the RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Single Stage Press Master Kit with a new scale and some other tools that I got from my uncle who taught me to reload.
To load the .223Rem I am going to order the following for MidwayUSA which comes out to about $25.
Trimmer Pilot - #22 for my Lyman Trimmer
Lee RGB 2-Die Set 223 Remington (the RCBS die was not rated well in .223)
Lee Universal Shell holder #4
I plan on reloading with a Hornady 55 grain FMJ bullet with CCI 400 primers. I'm not sure on which powder and how much to use. I want the gun to cycle properly and I'm not interested in any "Hot loads" that many cause problems with my gun. My reloading manuals are old from the early 70's and doesn't have current data. I am looking to shoot economically but I don't mind spending on something that might work better or shoot cleaner and such.
Any suggestions on a load or equipment?
What powder and how much should I use?
Will the Lee shell holder work in the RCBS Rock Chucker Press? I never had to change it :)
Thanks!
Might want to look at the 3 die set, comes with the factory crimp die and the shellholder. You can find all the load data online from the manufacturers.
I use the RCBS X-die so I only have to trim once and get many more reloadings per case. I also happen to have the RCBS 2-die set for .223 and it works fine. The only criticism I have is the seating stem has a cup on the end that does not fit all bullet styles well.
You will want a press mounted collet bullet puller. The .224" bullets are a bit light for the inertia puller to work without a LOT of hammering for a crimped bullet. I have a Hornady but I think everyone makes one that works about the same (camming lever and collet).
For 55 gr FMJ bullets I use Varget and it seems to like to be loaded near max. I seat to COL = 2.205" (where the cannelure ends up for the bullets I use) and use 26.5 gr Varget for about 2850fps from a 16" barrel. It is a tad more accurate at 27.0 grains which is the max and gives about 2900 fps. You can down load but much below 26.0 grains and velocity drops below 2800fps and the cases come out sootier so I guess they are not expanding and selaing the chamber as well.
I haven't shot these other powders in .223 yet, but my research shows that Hodgon BL-C(2) and H4895, W748, TAC, and Reloader15 might be good as well. Varget seems good to me and I just found 8# of it so I am set for a while.
The shellholders should interchange. I use Lee, Hornady and RCBS shellholders in my Lee press.
chineseboxer
03-02-10, 16:08
I am fairly new to loading .223...I have found that lee shellholders suck. Way to much play in them. I bought RCBS shell holders for my press and they are much better. You can get started with the lee for cheap but you my want to upgrade your shell holders. I have been loading Remington 55gr FMJ with 24.2 gr of H335. I have found my Stag to fully function from 23.0 grains and up. I am loading to an OAL of 2.230-2.235. H335 meters great and it is one of the most common and readily available powders around here. Alot of guys are using Win 748 as well. .223 is fairly easy to load. Good Luck!
I like H335 also but have heard good things about Ramshot TAC.
As to shell holders, I use the Lee and have had no problems.
Another vote for H335 or TAC (actually, any appropriate ball powder). Meters much better than extruded. Check Hogdon's and Ramshot's website for loading data.
Get the 3-die set that includes a Factory Crimp Die. Or get a taper crimper from whoever.
The supplied Lee SH should work in your press.
If this is your first entry into bottleneck cartridge reloading, I recommend you use Imperial sizing wax for a lube or use Lee lube diluted 1:4 with 91% alcohol and let the alcohol evaporate over several minutes after spraying. Make sure you adequately lube, stuck cases are a PITA.
Ramshot TAC and X-Terminator work great for heavier and lighter bullets, respectively.
Varget is also a favorite among those wanting to load both .223 and .308, but better suited toward the heavier bullets since you won't get enough in the case to push the lighter bullets to the velocities that other powders (i.e. XT) can.
I am using RCBS SB .223 dies I bought like 30 yrs ago, still going strong, never had a problem.
The Hornaday bullet is good in my opinion, and I use 25 grs. of AA2230 under it. Others have given their loads, which are no doubt working just fine for them. I have used a bunch of powders over the years....Win 748, Varget, some IMR's etc. There are many to choose from. If I were to switch from AA2230 I would try TAC. I like fine grain ball powders, they meter very well.
PoconoChris
03-05-10, 11:39
Another vote for H335 or TAC (actually, any appropriate ball powder). Meters much better than extruded. Check Hogdon's and Ramshot's website for loading data.
Get the 3-die set that includes a Factory Crimp Die. Or get a taper crimper from whoever.
The supplied Lee SH should work in your press.
If this is your first entry into bottleneck cartridge reloading, I recommend you use Imperial sizing wax for a lube or use Lee lube diluted 1:4 with 91% alcohol and let the alcohol evaporate over several minutes after spraying. Make sure you adequately lube, stuck cases are a PITA.
Thanks for all of the replies!!
I noted all of the loads to try later, the reloading manuals I have are from the 70's and they don't have alot of .223 up-to-date powders and bullets. I just finished loading all of the brass I had in .243Win and .308Win. and was looking to start .223 while I am waiting on the weather to warm up. I use the oil-less casing lube and still roll the casings on a pad. I'll try the spray stuff when I'm out. Ha! I got one stuck in a die once and learned.
I'll switch to the RCBS shell holder, I have mostly RCBS equipment except for the trimmer and I am happy with it.
I looked through all of my powder I got with my setup. I have a can and a half of IMR3031 that I don't use on other loads. I think I'll start with it because I have so much. Any one try this powder?
Another cheap trick for .223 loading is using Ballistol spray oil for lubing cases...its easy, cheap, and works great.
However, I have had stuck cases using Ballistol on larger cases like .308
If you want to try surplus powders the WC844 / WC844T is supposedly non canister grade H335 equivalent (which means lot to lot it can vary some) and is much cheaper. Find someone else interested in some to split with you and buy a case of 4 or 6 jugs and save a bunch of money. patsreloading.com has it (I have no interest in that company except as a satisfied customer)
I looked through all of my powder I got with my setup. I have a can and a half of IMR3031 that I don't use on other loads. I think I'll start with it because I have so much. Any one try this powder?
I have never used it but a quick google of "imr3031 223" shows a bunch of people using it so you should be GTG if you have good data and work something up
IMR3031 is a fairly fast powder so it would likely be best with the lighter bullets of 55 gr or less.
http://data.hodgdon.com/cartridge_load.asp
55 GR. SPR SP IMR 3031 .224" COL=2.200"
Start: 21.6 gr 2907 fps 41,100 PSI
Max: 24.6C gr 3233 fps 52,500 PSI
Decent velocity. Looks a good place to start for you.
Hey guys I'm new to the whole reloading gig and will likely be picking up a Lee Anniversary Kit sometime in the next couple months. I will be reloading 5.56/.223 mainly for a 10.5" Barrel with a 1:7" Twist and was wondering what grain is best for this.
I plan to pickup a 16" AR within the next year and a half too and will want to reload for it too, it will also have a 1:7" twist. At this stage I'm not looking at any sort of progressive press or anything. Don't plan to reload for pistol or go progressive for at least 2 years.
I am fairly new to loading .223...I have found that lee shellholders suck. Way to much play in them. I bought RCBS shell holders for my press and they are much better. You can get started with the lee for cheap but you my want to upgrade your shell holders.......
What's bad with "play" in the shell holder?
"Play" in the right places is a good thing.
Hey guys I'm new to the whole reloading gig and will likely be picking up a Lee Anniversary Kit sometime in the next couple months. I will be reloading 5.56/.223 mainly for a 10.5" Barrel with a 1:7" Twist and was wondering what grain is best for this.
I plan to pickup a 16" AR within the next year and a half too and will want to reload for it too, it will also have a 1:7" twist. At this stage I'm not looking at any sort of progressive press or anything. Don't plan to reload for pistol or go progressive for at least 2 years.
What will you be doing with the gun?
What range do you want to shoot out to?
I would guess that 75's are about the max weight which will stay stable at the lower velocities you will have.
Focus on the 69 SMK's or similar which can be loaded at mag length and push fast enough to get out past 600 for accuracy work.
The heavier ones might be ok but start to become unstable. you would also have issues with powder space and mag length with long projectiles.
There is such a huge plethora of acceptable powders to use. Me personally, I have always stuck with Hodgdon powders to include Varget, H335, BLC-2, & Benchmark for loading 223. There are so many good, acceptable powders from different manufacturers that will suffice fine. Most importantly find a powder that is available consistently and one that will give you a lot of variety for your loads whether different calibers, different loads, etc.
I can still remember the first time I fired my first 223 reload through an AR. I sat there and fired the rifle with my eyes closed, mainly fearing catastrophic failures of my upper do to overpressure because of something I did wrong on my part.
For primers, (I know people are going to come on hard and flame me for this!) I use Small Rifle Magnum Primers. Upon researching different boards and manufacturers it was made clear that CCI Arsenal Primers are similar in performance to regular SR ones and WOLF suggests using their SR Magnum for 223/5.56 AR loads. I want to say the thing I remembered about this debate was that the Magnum primers had a more denser/thicker head on them to prevent slamfires and other anomalies.
To the OP, if you've been in the reloading game for awhile you will not have any troubles with 223 loading. Just find a powder that works for you and stick with it. Also, one thing I didnt mention was that IMR has a newer powder that is labeled by the trade name of IMR 8280 XBR and is supposedly the SH!T for 223 loads. If you need some more assistance please PM me and I will give you my recipes for my 223 powder charges.
Don't be afraid to experiment with your loads. Try to cross reference your load data from loading manuals from reputable companies. However, don't use loading data that you find posted on the internet unless you can back it up in a reloading manual or is coming from the powder company itself!
Good Luck!
for the best results in geting the cases sized back to factory min dimension as possible and therefore most likely to work well in a variety of guns SMALL BASE sizing die is the way to go. I actually prefer rcbs to lee any day. Also 223 cases stretch and lengthen quickly so expect to do a lot of trimming. if using mil surp brass rememeber to check for berdan priming and you will have to swage or trim primer pockets.back when ammo was 20-30 cents a round I did not bother mcuh,now I am feeling the need again
I'm hearing good things about the RCBS X dies. Anyone here use them?
Ridge_Runner_5
03-11-10, 20:52
Tagged for further review.
I'm hearing good things about the RCBS X dies. Anyone here use them?
Works great--just as advertised. I hate trimming brass, and the X-dies remove that chore (once you've done the initial trimming).
Works great--just as advertised. I hate trimming brass, and the X-dies remove that chore (once you've done the initial trimming).
Though I believe your neck walls will gradually get thicker. The brass still flows when you size but there is a barrier in the die that keeps it from stretching out soy it just accumulates...
The X-die must substantially slow down the movement of brass to the neck otherwise you would get case head weakening at the same rate as without the X-die.
Instead, those who have tested case life with the X-die found they got 15-20 reloads and basically just gave up trying to wear out the cases.
Do you have experience that indicates case life is not extended with the X-Die?
The X-die must substantially slow down the movement of brass to the neck otherwise you would get case head weakening at the same rate as without the X-die.
Instead, those who have tested case life with the X-die found they got 15-20 reloads and basically just gave up trying to wear out the cases.
Do you have experience that indicates case life is not extended with the X-Die?
I don't think I made that claim.
The X die works by putt a mechanical block at the top that prevents the case (flowing brass) from elongating -- it hits that wall. So as the case elongates the brass gathers at the top (mechanically speaking from theory -- I don't use one).
It would be interesting to do a test of a large enough sample.
btw I started using a Lyman M die to expand the neck back out. Supposedly it works the brass less than a normal FL size expander ball. I size in the dillon size/trim die and then expand the neck out with the M die instead of a FL sizer and neck expansion ball...
I don't think I made that claim.
The X die works by putt a mechanical block at the top that prevents the case (flowing brass) from elongating -- it hits that wall. So as the case elongates the brass gathers at the top (mechanically speaking from theory -- I don't use one).
It would be interesting to do a test of a large enough sample.
btw I started using a Lyman M die to expand the neck back out. Supposedly it works the brass less than a normal FL size expander ball. I size in the dillon size/trim die and then expand the neck out with the M die instead of a FL sizer and neck expansion ball...
Sorry, I guess I don't understand your point. If brass moved to the neck in an X-die at the same rate as with a regular resizing die, then the head area would weaken at the same rate and cases would fail there after the same number of reloadings.
However, since with the X-Die you can get many more reloadings per case, then the brass CANNOT be moving to the neck as fast as it does with regular resizing dies.
If your point is simply that some movement of brass, albeit at a slower rate, moves to the neck and you may need to ream it someday, then I agree.
The benefit of the X-die is that you trim once and don't need to again, and you can get many more reloadings per case. I have not read of any test in which someone has been able to reload with the X-Die to case failure (due to case head separation), but have loaded as many as 20 times before giving up.
HelloLarry
03-12-10, 14:34
The X die works by putt a mechanical block at the top that prevents the case (flowing brass) from elongating -- it hits that wall. So as the case elongates the brass gathers at the top (mechanically speaking from theory -- I don't use one).
That is indeed what happens.
You know that nice chamfer you put on the case mouth? After a shoot-load cycle or two that chamfer goes away. If you are shooting FMJ or tough boat tails like that I guess it doesn't matter. But if you are shooting softer jacketed bullets like J4s or other match bullets, the case shaves jacket material off the bullet when you seat the bullets.
So, you have to chamfer again.
Sorry, I guess I don't understand your point. If brass moved to the neck in an X-die at the same rate as with a regular resizing die, then the head area would weaken at the same rate and cases would fail there after the same number of reloadings.
However, since with the X-Die you can get many more reloadings per case, then the brass CANNOT be moving to the neck as fast as it does with regular resizing dies.
Do you have verifiable and reliable data that this is actually true? Do you really get more loadings? Have you taken say 200 cases, divided them in half, and reloaded them a bunch of times, half with X-Die, and half with FL sizer and regular trimming and them kept accurate measurements on case head dimensions (thickness etc)?
Using the same load in all cases for every round. Better, do it twice -- once with 223 loads and once with 556 loads
Just wondering... I have not done it either but I am not claiming less or more reloads from the same brass using one or the other.
If your point is simply that some movement of brass, albeit at a slower rate, moves to the neck and you may need to ream it someday, then I agree.
The benefit of the X-die is that you trim once and don't need to again, and you can get many more reloadings per case. I have not read of any test in which someone has been able to reload with the X-Die to case failure (due to case head separation), but have loaded as many as 20 times before giving up.
I have not done this myself, but I have read some articles by guys who have tested the X-die and reported getting 15-20 reloads on .308 and .30-06 and just giving up. I could Google it again, but so could you if you are really interested.
Of course a shady company like RCBS could be blowing smoke too.
Have you actually measured the thickening of case necks after each resizing in an X-die or is that just speculation?
I have not done this myself, but I have read some articles by guys who have tested the X-die and reported getting 15-20 reloads on .308 and .30-06 and just giving up. I could Google it again, but so could you if you are really interested.
I don't doubt that they do. But I could load and depending on load get 15-20 without using an X-die. A moderate load in a bolt action with tighter target chamber won't get as much stretching on sizing as a lose semi auto hot load will. And 223 are different than 308 / 3006.
Of course a shady company like RCBS could be blowing smoke too.
Why would you say that? I am not doubting that the X-die saves you from trimming as much. I am just saying you need to be aware that you will eventually get excess material in your neck. It may or may not give you more loads. I would like to see verifiable and scientifically rigorous tests to show that.
Have you actually measured the thickening of case necks after each resizing in an X-die or is that just speculation?
I don't have an X-die so have never done it. As I mentioned in a previous response
So as the case elongates the brass gathers at the top (mechanically speaking from theory -- I don't use one).
it was speculation on my part. However, I have read reports from others a while back that mentioned the thickening of the neck walls.
The brass will flow when you size it and based on how the X-die works -- it basically sticks a block that prevents the elongation of the brass -- the brass has to end up somewhere...
From a previous post
That is indeed what happens.
You know that nice chamfer you put on the case mouth? After a shoot-load cycle or two that chamfer goes away. If you are shooting FMJ or tough boat tails like that I guess it doesn't matter. But if you are shooting softer jacketed bullets like J4s or other match bullets, the case shaves jacket material off the bullet when you seat the bullets.
So, you have to chamfer again.
The X-Die was not intended to replace neck sizing only of cases. I think you know that, being in the business. Your apples-to-oranges comparison actually reinforces the utility of the X-Die for situations in which you should full length size. If full length sizing with an X-Die gives you as many reloads as you can get just neck sizing, then I would say that is a pretty good deal.
You can only neck size if you are loading for a bolt or single action rifle and for just one specific rifle, unless you luck out and get two or more rifles with the same headspace on the shoulders. If you shoot for multiple rifles, semi autos, lever actions or pumps then you should FL size.
Eventually you may need to ream the necks although none of us know when that would be needed, just eventually. This statement is useless without any information to back up after how many reloadings that will occur. Eventually my barrel will wear out as well. My point is that obviously brass is flowing to the neck at a rate much less than with normal FL sizing since the case head thinning is not occurring as quickly as without
The X-Die was not intended to replace neck sizing only of cases. I think you know that, being in the business.
of course. Why are you bringing up neck sizing? I never once talked about neck sizing.
Your apples-to-oranges comparison actually reinforces the utility of the X-Die for situations in which you should full length size. If full length sizing with an X-Die gives you as many reloads as you can get just neck sizing, then I would say that is a pretty good deal.
Again, I made no apples to oranges comparison. I never once mentioned neck sizing. I only mentioned that some sorts of rifles will cause brass to stretch more when sized than others will.
You can only neck size if you are loading for a bolt or single action rifle and for just one specific rifle, unless you luck out and get two or more rifles with the same headspace on the shoulders. If you shoot for multiple rifles, semi autos, lever actions or pumps then you should FL size.
Thanks for the lesson. I never once brought up neck sizing. Why are you muddying the conversation talking about neck sizing?
Eventually you may need to ream the necks although none of us know when that would be needed, just eventually.
HelloLarry seemed to think that it is after a shoot load cycle or two. That at least you need to re-chamfer because of brass flow.
This statement is useless without any information to back up after how many reloadings that will occur.
It is infinitely more useful than your statement that the X-Die means you can get more loadings out of your brass than FL sizing and trimming. It may be true, but you have presented ZERO evidence of it despite being asked repeatedly for said evidence.
Eventually my barrel will wear out as well. My point is that obviously brass is flowing to the neck at a rate much less than with normal FL sizing since the case head thinning is not occurring as quickly as without
Evidence please. You claim it is so but have presented no verifiable evidence. Specifically with 223 since that is the topic of this thread. Preferably fired out of a NATO specced 5.56 chamber AR15.
X-Die may slow brass thinning in the case head area on a 223. But you have presented no evidence at all that it is such. When you size you get brass flow and the brass has to go somewhere.
PoconoChris
03-19-10, 22:25
I was reading up on reloading because my MidwayUSA package arrived today :D and I will start reloading tomorrow. I was just wondering if I need a tool to install primers. I have been using a hand priming tool and do it while watching TV but on large rifle calbers(3006, 308, 243). It looks too big for the smaller 223 and small rifle primers. I also have a priming tool that is part of my Rockchucker Press, but it looks too big too. I looked on MidwayUSA's site and the priming tools don't come in different sizes. Just wondering. . .
of course. Why are you bringing up neck sizing? I never once talked about neck sizing.
Again, I made no apples to oranges comparison. I never once mentioned neck sizing. I only mentioned that some sorts of rifles will cause brass to stretch more when sized than others will.
Thanks for the lesson. I never once brought up neck sizing. Why are you muddying the conversation talking about neck sizing?
HelloLarry seemed to think that it is after a shoot load cycle or two. That at least you need to re-chamfer because of brass flow.
It is infinitely more useful than your statement that the X-Die means you can get more loadings out of your brass than FL sizing and trimming. It may be true, but you have presented ZERO evidence of it despite being asked repeatedly for said evidence.
Evidence please. You claim it is so but have presented no verifiable evidence. Specifically with 223 since that is the topic of this thread. Preferably fired out of a NATO specced 5.56 chamber AR15.
X-Die may slow brass thinning in the case head area on a 223. But you have presented no evidence at all that it is such. When you size you get brass flow and the brass has to go somewhere.
Hey, you admit to speculation on your part on this topic. You claim/speculate there is more neck thickening yet have no idea at what rate or when it becomes significant. We both know that chamfering has nothing to do with whether case necks have thickened or not to any significant degree. Proper chamfering should not change case neck thickness at all.
I did my own research before starting to use the X-die. I easily found a couple of extensive tests in which the reloaders gave up after 15 or 20 reloads and still had not reached case failure.
In case your Google Fu is weak:
http://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=18155
http://www.xdtalk.com/forums/ammo-can/134281-x-die-experiments.html
Larry Gibson is one guy who hs done extensive testing. A quote from his test (first link)
At #12 is where I detected a thickening (.001”) of the case necks in the shoulder area which tapered forward. Again this did not effect concentricity or accuracy.
A quote from another guy regarding case neck thickening:
I don't know. Maybe the metal flows back when it's fired, since the brass is malleable?
EDIT: Called RCBS to find out some stuff (talked to a wonderful service rep). Here's what she told me:
1. No, the case neck won't thicken--the X-Die is supposed to prevent that, it redistributes the brass, doesn't allow it to thicken the neck.
2. The variation in growth is a function in variation in brass, all should stabilize just fine.
3. The "shorties" are simply because of the particular brass, some won't expand back when fired as much as others do. She said to just shoot 'em.
4. The rep said the only complaint she's received in 10 years about the X-Die is that it doesn't come in more calibers.
5. She also said it's shocking to them that it's not better known. When it came out it came out mid-year so it wasn't promoted at shotshow or similar, and thus wasn't apparent to many people.
6. The last thing she said was that when the techs would test it, they'd put in a case, run it, and after it would come out they'd examine the length with calipers--and just shake their heads that it came out the same length.
In all of my searching the only disparaging comments (relatively few) I found were by guys speculating it shouldn't work. Not one case in which someone had done real tests and found it lacking.
We both know that chamfering has nothing to do with whether case necks have thickened or not to any significant degree. Proper chamfering should not change case neck thickness at all.
This is not exactly true. The reason you have to rechamfer periodically is because the brass flow has moved to the neck and gotten rid of your chamfer.
I did not say that the X-die did not work. I only said that the brass has to flow somewhere and I had read at one time that it thickened necks slowly. Then I read from RCBS website how they work and speculated further that they would thicken based on how they stop the brass from getting longer. Your people you quote showed that they do actually thicken some.
They have a stop at the end that prevents the brass from getting longer. You take a soft material and push it up against a hard stop and it bunches up. It is possible that other aspects of it limit that somehow. That is all fine and dandy.
This is not exactly true. The reason you have to rechamfer periodically is because the brass flow has moved to the neck and gotten rid of your chamfer.
I did not say that the X-die did not work. I only said that the brass has to flow somewhere and I had read at one time that it thickened necks slowly. Then I read from RCBS website how they work and speculated further that they would thicken based on how they stop the brass from getting longer. Your people you quote showed that they do actually thicken some.
They have a stop at the end that prevents the brass from getting longer. You take a soft material and push it up against a hard stop and it bunches up. It is possible that other aspects of it limit that somehow. That is all fine and dandy.
Great we are making progress. Neck thickens due to brass flow = yes, but minimal amount. Which I never denied, I just speculated it must be a lot slower than without the X-die and using regular FL sizing. Larry Gibson found it to be .001 inch after 12 reloads. So I think I stand validated in my prediction that brass flows more slowly to the neck.
If you need to normally chamfer to seat flat based bullets, then, yes you will need to do so with the X-die as well. I don't believe ANYONE, especially RCBS, ever claimed it eliminated all case preparation steps. Just that you won't need to trim again and that you will most likely get significantly more reloadings than compared to using a regular FL resizer for the same chamber(s).
And I provided links to a few of the many easily searched for hands-on tests reloaders have done to document extended case life compared to their FL sizing in the same rifles.
I think I stand vindicated in my original statements regarding no more trimming, extended case life, and slower/reduced flow of brass to the case neck thickness. As I have said before, I have do not have my own proof yet (no more than 3 reloadings of my hundreds of .223 and .30-06 cases so far), but this is what my own research indicated.
I think it remarkable with the large amount of discussion in evidence on several firearms forums that I cannot find one example of someone doing actual testing and finding one thing against the X-die relative to its intended purpose.
Sounds like a good investment too me...I hate trimming brass!
To the orig poster - dont forget the need to remove the primer crimp - why I went $$ route with a 1050 and deswagger built in.
I cant tell you how much .223/5.56 I have trimmed - done a ton and this is with a Dillon 550 setup with a decapper and 1200b trimmer/sizing die.
I HATE TRIMMING BRASS!!!
That said - I have two piles of brass - piles of virgin(really range pickup or other factory brass I never reloaded /fired) and piles of brass that I had originally reloaded(stored for the X-Die)
My plan is two sets of reloads - brass first timers and x-dire setups. I have not made it to the latter but just a few thousand of the former to go!
Also - I am a TAC Ramshot guy these days. Sticking with 55gr/62gr for now. Will make next 69gr/75gr bullet venture shortly.
I was reading up on reloading because my MidwayUSA package arrived today :D and I will start reloading tomorrow. I was just wondering if I need a tool to install primers. I have been using a hand priming tool and do it while watching TV but on large rifle calbers(3006, 308, 243). It looks too big for the smaller 223 and small rifle primers. I also have a priming tool that is part of my Rockchucker Press, but it looks too big too. I looked on MidwayUSA's site and the priming tools don't come in different sizes. Just wondering. . .
Hello, Chris. in answer to your original question. I use IMR 4198 @ 19.0 grains. shooting from a 16 in. m-4 type barrel. I get about 368 rounds from a pound of powder. And they crono. at or about 2887 fps. with a 55 gr. fmj and its not to hard on the brass ether. I have been reloading for about 40 years and have tried about every piece of equipment out there any have found that there are NO short cuts to good safe reloading practices. Lee dies are probably the the toughest dies out there. And with that said, yes there are more finer tuning and fancier die sets I have no doubt but, for everyday reloading of rounds that you are just out to burn up at the range you won't find a better and simpler die set. I get about 30.000 rounds out of the LEE die and I'M on my fifth set of 223 LEE dies. They don't last forever! The hand primer from LEE for the money is a good choice also. It will prime with a good feel to the touch and you'll know when you get a problem by the feel of the paddle. Just a tip that will save you a lot of guessing as to your head spacing on your hand loads. Size and complete a full round then pull your upper off your rifle and remove the charging handle. Drop the round in to the chamber and replace the bolt carrier group and close the BCG by hand to the locked position and pull the carrier out again with your little finger, Using the hole in the back of the BCG.It should unlock and come out with only a slight amount of resistance. If you have to force it out then readjust your sizing die until you can remove the BCG on a locked round with only a little pressure. Good luck and enjoy your reloading. ;) Patriot
To the orig poster - dont forget the need to remove the primer crimp - why I went $$ route with a 1050 and deswagger built in.
Wow, that sounds terrific!
How does the Dillon 1050 mounted pocket swager work? Is it a punch type or cutter type? Do you need to adjust it for depth or is it such that no adjustment is needed?
I've already done thousands with the Dillon Super Swager 600 (manual bench mounted) and hope not to have to swage that much again. But just in case I need it I would love to find a good press mounted tool. Can it work with any other presses or only mounts to the dillon?
Wow, that sounds terrific!
How does the Dillon 1050 mounted pocket swager work? Is it a punch type or cutter type? Do you need to adjust it for depth or is it such that no adjustment is needed?
I've already done thousands with the Dillon Super Swager 600 (manual bench mounted) and hope not to have to swage that much again. But just in case I need it I would love to find a good press mounted tool. Can it work with any other presses or only mounts to the dillon?
It is built into the press and more or less works like the Super Swager 600. It is the second station and has a punch in the bottom and a die with rod on the top.
PoconoChris
03-26-10, 11:46
Well I got started last night, prepped the casing and already have 10 loaded. I should finish tonight. I found the parts for my press that let me install the small rifle primers. I shot PMC Bronze and collected all of the brass and didn't have a problem prepping it. I had some empty casings that a neighbor gave me and they were crimped. I touched primer pocket with the reamer to take the lip off and they worked ok too. Hopefully I should finish the first 50 tonight, and be able to try them this week. Then go into mass production:D
Lessons learned so far,
Next time, buy dies with the set screw on the locking ring so I don't have to adjust them every time I put them in the press. I may drill and tap the Lee die's locking rings and put in a set screw or borrow one from a calber I don't load often.
I didn't like the Lee seating die, I thought the casings should fit tighter in it. I bought the Lee because I read a few reviews that the RCBS die had problems seating the bullet. It seemed to work ok. I only wasted one casing adjusting it. I usually load one with no powder or primer to test in the chamber and magazine of my guns and it worked good.
Buy powder that works better in my RCBS Uniflow powder measurer, the IMR3031 is small, but long, stick powder. I heard it crunching and it gave me the willys. I ended up doing it by hand. I am using what I have for now and will keep it in mind when I am out.
Working with the smaller brass was a lot easier to prep. I was able to work faster with it. I did 50 casing and loaded 10 in about an hour and a half. It was my first time with the dies and I should be a lot faster next time.
I need a good priming tool, using the one that is built in the press is slow and sometimes the primers turn or fall out.
I may look at getting a tumbler. I thought the casings would be clean because I just shot them. The powder must have been corrosive, and they were not as clean as I would have liked.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.