View Full Version : Removing Front Side Mount Sling Swivel
Captains1911
03-01-10, 09:39
This is the mount that clamps to the barrel under the FSB. I attempted to remove it from my Colt 6920 yesterday by tapping one of the 2 roll pins out with a hammer and roll pin punch. I have never attempted to remove one of these but I did install a RRA one on my BCM and it was simple. However, I could not get either of these 2 roll pins on my Colt to even budge, I must have hit each with the hammer and punch at least 50 times with zero movement, even after oiling them, so I gave up.
After my failed attempt, I started thinking, if I was hitting these pins with this much force and they weren't moving, was I possibly over-stressing something else that I shouldn't have been? I don't have a vice, so what I did was separate the upper from the lower, remove the BCG and CH from the upper, and then I sat the upper muzzle up on a piece of wood on the edge of a table with the FA hanging off the edge so that the back of the upper receiver was bearing directly on the piece of wood. I then attempted to punch out one of the pins with the upper in this position by hitting downwards.
The sling mount moves freely under the FSB, so any force acting on the mount from the hammer and punch would translate directly to it, and then down the rest of the upper. Am I being paranoid by thinking I shouldn't have done this? I figured if anything was going to give it would have been either the pins I was hitting or the piece of wood that the upper was bearing on, I just need some assurance that I didn't potentially screw anything up. Thanks for reading my lengthy post.
Also, how the hell do you remove this mount?
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e106/Captains1911/temp/DSC00955.jpg
Belmont31R
03-01-10, 09:49
Bigger hammer?
They have always come out fairly easy for me.
Captains1911
03-01-10, 10:03
Bigger hammer?
They have always come out fairly easy for me.
Based on the close proximity of the pin's axis to the barrel, I'm not sure a bigger hammer would work.
Belmont31R
03-01-10, 10:16
Based on the close proximity of the pin's axis to the barrel, I'm not sure a bigger hammer would work.
I always use a larger punch (like 1/4") to get them started, and then a smaller one that will go in the hole the pin sits in to tap it the rest of the way out.
Rest the buttstock on the ground with the barrel pointed up, set the punch, and then hit down on it. Once the pin is almost flush the whole use the smaller punch to tap it the rest of the way out.
A roll pin should not be that hard to get out.
If you don't want to re-use the mount, you could cut the pins off right next to the middle section of the mount with a Dremel tool and cutoff wheel. It would mash up the mount, for sure, but if you cut close enough, it looks like you could separate the two halves pretty easily with the pins cut out of the way.
Captains1911
03-01-10, 10:50
I always use a larger punch (like 1/4") to get them started, and then a smaller one that will go in the hole the pin sits in to tap it the rest of the way out.
Rest the buttstock on the ground with the barrel pointed up, set the punch, and then hit down on it. Once the pin is almost flush the whole use the smaller punch to tap it the rest of the way out.
A roll pin should not be that hard to get out.
So is it better to attempt this with the upper and lower together resting on the buttstock as opposed to the way I was doing it, or does it not really matter?
Belmont31R
03-01-10, 10:59
So is it better to attempt this with the upper and lower together resting on the buttstock as opposed to the way I was doing it, or does it not really matter?
As long as you can hold it steady shouldn't really matter. Thats just how I've done it in the past.
Then just tap the punch down. Should move the pin to be near flush with the top of the hole, and then use a smaller punch to tap the pin the rest of the way out.
Like this:
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj245/BM31R/sideswivelpunch.jpg
Captains1911
03-01-10, 11:12
ok thanks, I will try with a larger punch, I don't really understand why that would work better, but I'll give it a shot, I just get nervous when I start hammering on my guns.
piggly_wiggly
03-01-10, 11:21
While most of these pins should come out with easy persuasion while the rifle is assembled, if you're having trouble, I'd leave the upper off the lower like you had. Make sure your wood block is on a non-flexing surface, like concrete floor. Hang the FA off of the block, and it helps to have the correct tools, in this case a properly fitting roll pin punch. You want full engagement on the face of the pin, and keep the punch as aligned as possible so you are driving your force straight down. If you don't have a roll pin punch, go get a set, but absent that option, use a larger punch that is larger in diameter so get it started, so you aren't just pushing on the inside of the pin, which can make it harder to remove.
Punch and hammer should work fine; I have done it many times without issue.
If you aren't in a hurry, a couple drops of some penetrating oil might help. If you've shot the weapon much, you might have had some lubricant gum up a little around the pins.
Captains1911
03-01-10, 13:13
I was using a 1/8" roll pin punch, is this not the proper one? As suggested I will try using a larger one to get it started, but I still don't understand why they wouldn't budge with this punch, I was hitting it pretty hard too.
I was using a 1/8" roll pin punch, is this not the proper one? As suggested I will try using a larger one to get it started, but I still don't understand why they wouldn't budge with this punch, I was hitting it pretty hard too.
I am actually about to remove one off a 6920 - want a video?
Captains1911
03-01-10, 16:05
I am actually about to remove one off a 6920 - want a video?
sure, if you don't mind, thanks.
sure, if you don't mind, thanks.
Okay, PM inbound shortly. Used a 5/32 punch to get the lower roll pin started and finished it off with a 3/32 punch once it got halfway. Hammer used was a regular size carpenter's hammer. Make sure the rifle is clear and no rounds are in it. Buttstock on the ground, barrel pointed to the ceiling, rifle completely assembled.
Captains1911
03-01-10, 19:01
This ****ing pin will not move, I have pucnhed pins before, this one isn't moving, it's quite frustrating!
ETA: Ok, I got it, I actually had to use a SMALLER roll pin punch, 3/32, and it came out. Thanks for the help.
This ****ing pin will not move, I have pucnhed pins before, this one isn't moving, it's quite frustrating!
ETA: Ok, I got it, I actually had to use a SMALLER roll pin punch, 3/32, and it came out. Thanks for the help.
Hah, the video is still uploading and has been for the last hour; YouTube is taking forever. Guess I will cancel it. Glad you got it out.
Captains1911
03-01-10, 19:28
Hah, the video is still uploading and has been for the last hour; YouTube is taking forever. Guess I will cancel it. Glad you got it out.
Thanks anyways, I appreciate it. That swivel mount does have some weight to it, with my light up there all the front-end weight I can remove is worth it.
I do these quite often as these are our primary sling mounts on our M4A1's. Also these darn DD Omega X 12's at BC are keeping me pretty busy, so sling mount removal is even more frequent on the Colts. I just did 2 of them today. Woulda shot ya a vid. Pretty straight forward.
Make sure you are hitting the roll pin only and not the ear (tab) is it pressing against.
justin_247
03-02-10, 04:06
Are these mounts pretty sturdy or do they move around a lot?
Anybody have any they're not going to use and that they'd like to donate? I could please use one. :)
In case you need it for anything else in the future, Kano Kroil is a good penetrating liquid.
Are these mounts pretty sturdy or do they move around a lot?
Anybody have any they're not going to use and that they'd like to donate? I could please use one. :)
They are the standard Colt Side Sling Mount - very sturdy. There is a little bit of front to back movement but that does not matter.
http://dynamicarmament.com/items/ar-15-m-16-mil-spec-parts/sling-mount-colt-front-sling-mount-colt-sling-front-sling-mount-detail.htm
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4521/Product/M_4_USGI_BARREL_MOUNT_SWIVEL
http://www.specializedarmament.com/products/SWIVEL_KIT_COLT_M4_M4A1_SIDE_MOUNTING_SLING_4PCS-349-4.html
Belmont31R
03-02-10, 18:22
They are the standard Colt Side Sling Mount - very sturdy. There is a little bit of front to back movement but that does not matter.
http://dynamicarmament.com/items/ar-15-m-16-mil-spec-parts/sling-mount-colt-front-sling-mount-colt-sling-front-sling-mount-detail.htm
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4521/Product/M_4_USGI_BARREL_MOUNT_SWIVEL
http://www.specializedarmament.com/products/SWIVEL_KIT_COLT_M4_M4A1_SIDE_MOUNTING_SLING_4PCS-349-4.html
PKFirearms also sells the Colt side sling adapter for $30.
longshot2000
10-30-17, 16:58
old post, but still a good question. I had a time with a number of pins, then found this, which is great at starting all sorts of pins on their way.
48290
voiceofreason
10-30-17, 21:23
If you aren't in a hurry, a couple drops of some penetrating oil might help. If you've shot the weapon much, you might have had some lubricant gum up a little around the pins.
Kroil or even WD-40 left drenched for a day can make a huge difference in stubborn metal/metal contact
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