View Full Version : machine advice needed
i have a hornady LNL progressive in .40 and .45acp, and am considering selling it and getting a 650 or a 1050. the frustration level is killing me. i'm not really too concerned whether i can put out 600 v.s. 1000 rds an hour but the RELIABILITY factor is everything. the LNL is a great machine but the shell plate is always too tite or too loose therefore it won't index 100% of the time correctly therefore the primer seating is off about one in every 10 rds. if i tighten it w/the wrench its too hard to index and if i do it finger tite its becomes loose. can't get the correct in between set for any length of time. i like the 2" post and the quick caliber change over and a lot of other features but damn!! i know lots of you guys are dillon fanatics but i'd rather hear from the occassional user that doesn't "bleed blue" just has one and will tell me his honest opinion concerning the reliability factor. thanks!!
I am going to tell you that I have owned or currently own several Dillion presses. I have been reloading since I was a kid with my dad using a Lee Load All. That is the deal where you hammer the cases into the die. I have enjoyed using my Dillions since my first in 1992. Are they perfect? No. I have learned things about setting them up over the last 18 years. They have their own issues. But by and by the Dillions have accounted for upwards of 100K rounds of ammo. My father is still using the original Square Deal that I bought in 1992. That being said, I have alll kinds of reloading equipment. I like to use Lee dies for some things and Redding for other. The only important thing is that your equipment work for you. It is no different that the various types of kit that we all have. What runs great for you may not be my cup of tea.
Have you conctacted the help line? The folks at Hornady are good people that may be able to help you look for simple solutions to your problems with your Hornady. A shim here and a dab of Loc-Tite Blue may be able to save you some hair.
Do a google search. There are a lot of people that seem to be having similar issues with your press.
Dillon's Priming systems are no model of perfection either. I'm at the point that I prime my brass as a separate operation for rifle... And I'm almost going that direction with pistol too.
yes i have contacted hornady techs. they are very friendly and sometimes helpful. issue there is that they want to solve one tiny piece of the puzzle as fast as they can (instead of the whole puzzle) and they have no problem then telling you " ok, i have other calls to answer, call me back if this didn't fix it". i'm sure they do have other calles to answer, but i'm not there to BS and waste their time, either. like i said, frustrating. and in the 80's i had owned dillon rl 1000, 550, and lots of their accessories. just wondering how they were presently. thanks for the feedback guys. and yes markm.......the priming issue seems like it is always the biggest problem no matter what system you get.
I own a Dillon 650 and a 1050. I use the 650 exclusively for handgun loads and the 1050 exclusively for 223. The reason I splurged on the 1050 was for reloading brass with crimped primer pockets since the 1050 swagges them in a station. However, like the member above said, Dillon Machines are not perfect. My 650 runs for the most part trouble free. My 1050, that is another story!
Go with the Dillon. Their "No BS" warranty is worth it. I have heard numerous stories from friends who sent old machines that had been sitting around uncared for and getting them back refurbished in amazing condition.
I have been reloading for 20yrs.
I have used Lee single stages, Lee Pro 1000 and Loadmaster - .223, 9mm and .45
On the 9mm/,45 front I gave up on progressive priming as it does suck - decided to prime by hand and be done with it.
De-swagging crimped 5.56 was a pain as well priming, etc
The reason I splurged on the 1050 was for reloading brass with crimped primer pockets since the 1050 swagges
Like lwhazmat5, I decided to go with 1050 - this was the best bet for .225/5.56 - WOW! Has been awesome. Much better on auto priming. Loaded tons with it - invested in 9mm for it as well and was so impressed not just by volume but especially reliability - not having some complete failuer every 15 rounds or so. I can guess/measure failures in about 1 in ever 500 or so, if that.
Another Dillon fan here. I run a 1050 for small primer (.223), and a 650 for large.
The 650 can be a little finicky, but nothing serious. The no BS warranty is for real - my electric case trimmer went down - elec tools only have a one year warranty. Dillon replaced the power supply and returned it for no charge, anyway.
1-800-223-4570 gets you real service.
MarshallDodge
03-12-10, 22:42
I am curious about what kind of problems you guys are having with your Dillons. :confused: I have been running two 550's and have had very little issues.
I load about a dozen different calibers, using both small and large pistol systems, and have tried Winchester, Federal, CCI, Wolf, and Magtech primers.
The Wolf primers are harder to seat and the Federals seem to be slightly out of round but the others run like butter.
ok, but lwazmat5 says his 1050 is "another story". whats up w/that? if i had it to do all over again i think i would of bought the 1050 instead of the LNL just for the reliability issue but maybe not after what he is saying. and i am seriously considering selling the LNL and getting a 1050. although at this point i have about gotten the kinks worked out of the priming system. the electric case feeder, thats "another story" too. manually feeding the cases i have so far run over 500 rds. and counting in .40cal and the only issue was sometimes not manually getting the cases into the shell plate far enough. i am much more concerned w/ a reliable machine than a high rd. count but also want a time saver. guess its not to be. "u pays ur money and u takes ur chances".
i am much more concerned w/ a reliable machine than a high rd. count
Then get the 550 - no auto case feed, fewer adjustments, fast change over. It's about as fool proof as you can go and still be in a progressive.
Then get the 550 - no auto case feed, fewer adjustments, fast change over. It's about as fool proof as you can go and still be in a progressive.
I believe the 550B has an optional case feeder available for it now.
my 1050 is another story
The 1050 is a lot more labor intensive not only for changing calibers (I will buy another 1050 before ever worrying about this!) but also for everyday loading.
my 1050 came "adjusted" from the factory. However it was by no means good to go out of the box. The 1050 is a "commercial" loading machine according to Dillon. It is not covered by their warranty, but Dillon has been good with sending me parts for free when the machine got broken due to operator error! My problem with my machine was actually me. I learned how to reload on a single stage press. I purchased my 650 and 1050 together. This was the first experience I have had with auto indexing multi-station presses. I used my 650 for months before taking my 1050 out of the box. The 650 is a durable and relatively easy machine to operate (once you have all of your caliber conversions setup and have swapped them a few times!). When I assembled my 1050 and stated loading 223, I noticed that the 1050 was not nearly as forgiving as the 650, plus there is a lot more stations versus the 650 with every pull of the handle. I purchased and watched both instructional videos that were made for each machine as well.
I guess all I am really trying to say is that if you think you are going to buy a 1050 to start loading multiple calibers I would highly discourage you from doing that (I had that mindset initially and the Dillon Rep talked me out of it. At first I was thinking he just wanted to see me buy 2 machines but having them now both and seeing how labor intensive (most people say around 30 minutes to swap calibers) it is to change it over!)!
I hope this clarifies the subject a bit. My caffeine has not taken effect yet so sorry if this post is out there!
FWIW, I am extremely happy with both of my machines. The reason I purchased the 650 over the 550B was the fact that the 650 was auto indexing where the 550B is not (meaning with the 550 the operator has to manually turn the shell plate to each station unlike the 650 the operator pulls the handle and, voila!). Like I stated earlier, my decision to buy the 1050 was to load 223 only and to be able to turn out high volumes of rounds.
In summary it should be noted that I would have been happy with any Dillon Machine. My decisions for purchasing the 650 and the 1050 came down to the volume loading potential available with each machine. Trying to load 1 caliber on my 1050 can be frustrating! I believe if I would of purchased the 1050 with the expectations of having an universal, do all machine, I probably would of sold it by now! I am very grateful that I have both machines - 1 for pistol (650) and the other for 223 (1050). I still use my rockchucker for 22-250. 308, & 7.62X54 and am content with doing so.
Then get the 550 - no auto case feed, fewer adjustments, fast change over. It's about as fool proof as you can go and still be in a progressive.
Bingo!!If you're not to worried about how many rounds per hour you can produce, the 550 will probably work for you. I'm loading 10 calibers on mine, both pistol and rifle, I prime everything on the machine, the primer feed is pretty reliable,I've had very few problems,and most of those were because it needed cleaned up badly after loading a couple thousand rounds. Yes, you can get a case feeder, I checked into it once..It's a no go if you also intend to use the machine to load rifle calibers, Dillon's CS people were pretty honest, and told me it would be a PITA to remove it for loading rifle calibers so, I'll pass.. I've been using the 550 for 10-12yrs now, I loaded 10's of thousands of rounds on it, so far, I haven't broke anything on it, The shellplate stays adjusted, the primer feed works, and you can still put out a decent amount of ammo in a hour if you're pressed for time, I can run off 100rnds of .45acp in about 17 minutes, and that includes stopping to weigh powder charges. So, really it's not a bad machine, it may not have all the bells and whistles, But it's alot simpler to set up and operate..
I believe the 550B has an optional case feeder available for it now.
It does, but is supported for handguns only.
The 1050 is a lot more labor intensive not only for changing calibers (I will buy another 1050 before ever worrying about this!) but also for everyday loading.
my 1050 came "adjusted" from the factory. However it was by no means good to go out of the box. The 1050 is a "commercial" loading machine according to Dillon. It is not covered by their warranty, but Dillon has been good with sending me parts for free when the machine got broken due to operator error! My problem with my machine was actually me. I learned how to reload on a single stage press. I purchased my 650 and 1050 together. This was the first experience I have had with auto indexing multi-station presses. I used my 650 for months before taking my 1050 out of the box. The 650 is a durable and relatively easy machine to operate (once you have all of your caliber conversions setup and have swapped them a few times!). When I assembled my 1050 and stated loading 223, I noticed that the 1050 was not nearly as forgiving as the 650, plus there is a lot more stations versus the 650 with every pull of the handle. I purchased and watched both instructional videos that were made for each machine as well.
I guess all I am really trying to say is that if you think you are going to buy a 1050 to start loading multiple calibers I would highly discourage you from doing that (I had that mindset initially and the Dillon Rep talked me out of it. At first I was thinking he just wanted to see me buy 2 machines but having them now both and seeing how labor intensive (most people say around 30 minutes to swap calibers) it is to change it over!)!
I hope this clarifies the subject a bit. My caffeine has not taken effect yet so sorry if this post is out there!
Yes, this is basically the advice I give people. Leave your 1050 dedicated to whatever you do with the need of volume. For me that is also 223. It is great for that but I do not want to have to take it apart. Maybe in a year or two after making adjustments etc I will be more experienced with it. Use a 650 for everything else (in the long run it is also cheaper).
I use the 650 for 9mm, 40 S&W, high grain 223, 223 trimming, 6.8, blasting 308. I use the 1050 for 223 blasting ammo. I use the 550 for 308 accuracy, 44 mag, 45acp (I only shoot a small amount through a USP), 6.5x55, 480 ruger, 458 socom, etc.
I started with a 550 and only upgraded to a 650 when I moved and the 550 stayed behind and I was young and single and working as a SW contractor (== $$$ -- wish I had that gig now). Eventually my 550s caught up with me. I got the 1050 to gain experience with it since I sell it but also to do volume 223. As an excuse ;)
1. i thought the 1050 was the "do all-end all" machine. reliable, fast, sturdy etc etc. no?
2. you say it is not good for multiple calibers as it is labor intensive to set up each caliber for. however-what if you but the interchangeable tool heads for it where you simply "plug in " the diff. caliber?
I am going to tell you that I have owned or currently own several Dillion presses. I have been reloading since I was a kid with my dad using a Lee Load All. That is the deal where you hammer the cases into the die. I have enjoyed using my Dillions since my first in 1992. Are they perfect? No. I have learned things about setting them up over the last 18 years. They have their own issues. But by and by the Dillions have accounted for upwards of 100K rounds of ammo. My father is still using the original Square Deal that I bought in 1992. That being said, I have alll kinds of reloading equipment. I like to use Lee dies for some things and Redding for other. The only important thing is that your equipment work for you. It is no different that the various types of kit that we all have. What runs great for you may not be my cup of tea.
Have you conctacted the help line? The folks at Hornady are good people that may be able to help you look for simple solutions to your problems with your Hornady. A shim here and a dab of Loc-Tite Blue may be able to save you some hair.
Do a google search. There are a lot of people that seem to be having similar issues with your press.
the only google searches i have been able to find show posts that are like 3-5 years old.
1. i thought the 1050 was the "do all-end all" machine. reliable, fast, sturdy etc etc. no?
2. you say it is not good for multiple calibers as it is labor intensive to set up each caliber for. however-what if you but the interchangeable tool heads for it where you simply "plug in " the diff. caliber?
Unlike the 550 and 650, where you can remove two pins, slide a toolhead in, etc, the 1050 toolheads can be changed out but it is much more labor intensive. The changing of the shellplates is also more labor intensive (and you have to remove the toolhead first)
think maybe i'll just stick w/my LNL and its minor glitches and 600-800 rds. and hour.
ALSO.... anyone know of any CURRENT LNL forums/discussion groups? dammed if i can find em. course that don't mean much.
i use an OLD RCBS ammomaster, i manually index it, and i prime by hand. (lee prmer tool)
i can get out over 200 rounds an hour. i actually like being able to remove the brass from the plate post-resize and inspect it and the primer pocket. i think it's a good QC step.
you could probably run your LNL the same way.
Labor intensive????
I bought my 1050 the first year Dillon sold them, I actually wanted an RL1000 but they said try this first.
I had a 550 and gave it to a friend who now has two (small primer and large primer) and have tried the 650 just for the experience but will never give up the 1050. Ive had it longer than my first wife!!!
If you think changing the tool heads is labor intensive, I think you're looking at it wrong (especially if you want the machine driven handle). My volume of shooting is going down since I am semi retired but changing a 1050 tool head is NOT a problem when you shoot 20-30 thousand rounds a year and want good ammo without spending alot of time making it.
Rifle rounds are different. I used the 550 for .223 and it was too slow. I bought QUANTITY back when it was $175-$200 a case.
For 9mm, .38 Super, .40, and, .45, Ill load volumes on the 1050!
A27257
dillons ads say u can change calibers on a 1050 in 20 minutes but users i have talked to say no way. i had a 1000 back in the 80's and it took a lot longer than that. but....it wasn't a 1050. like i said, i think i'll stick to my 800rds/hr LNL. till i win the lottery!
dillons ads say u can change calibers on a 1050 in 20 minutes but users i have talked to say no way. i had a 1000 back in the 80's and it took a lot longer than that. but....it wasn't a 1050. like i said, i think i'll stick to my 800rds/hr LNL. till i win the lottery!
I dug my 1050 out of the closet a few months ago - first time I've used it in years. It took me several hours to convert it from .40 S&W to .223, including a clean and lube job. (I have tools heads for both .40 & .223.) And then I still had some tweaking to get everything adjusted just right. It could be done in less than an hour if you did it on a regular basis and had everything laid out (assuming your tool heads were already set up).
I do all my large primer loading on a 650 so I don't have to mess with that part of the conversion. Tool heads are very expensive on the 1050 as well. A few of those and you could have a second loader, anyway.
If I don't have to change the primer feed, I can change calibers in 20 miuntes or so. There isn't that much to do. I can't figure what takes "hours" to make the change????? The toolhead, the shellplate, the locator pins and the case feed...
Since three of the calibers I use have small primers, changing in the primer feed isnt all that often.
A27257
I had the LNL and went through every upgrade that Hornady made and finally sold it after 3 years of frustration. I did get it to work but, it was not worth the trouble. IMO, I would cut my losses now.
I would suggest you find a long time Dillon user and go and watch them load. I went and watched a guy locally with a 1050 and I can out load him by 10x on a single stage. On rifle you need total brass prep to run a progressive reliably so you give up nothing to a single stage using ball powder IMO. Some people get caught up in techno BS.
My plan for pistol is if I increase my shooting, then I want to try out a square deal setup for one caliber and see how it works out in 45ACP. If it works then one for 38 S&W as those are my high volume usage calibers.
I never loaded a squib load in my life until I got the LNL POS.
I would suggest you find a long time Dillon user and go and watch them load. I went and watched a guy locally with a 1050 and I can out load him by 10x on a single stage. On rifle you need total brass prep to run a progressive reliably so you give up nothing to a single stage using ball powder IMO. Some people get caught up in techno BS.
This guy with the 1050 must have been a total doofus then. I can probably outload you and your single stage with my 1050 by a factor of 10x, and I am not very experienced with the 1050. This is not knocking you or your single stage. There is no case prep necessary for a progressive that you also don't need on a single stage. The 1050 is just really fast once you get the hang of it. This morning I needed 40 rounds to test a different load of powder (same powder I use, I just wanted to go a little lighter for routine blasting) with a new build before I load 2K this weekend of that new load. Within a few minutes it was all done.
That being said, most people should buy a 550 or 650, which are even easier to use than a 1050.
I have not used a LNL so cannot comment, though I have had several people buy Dillons after telling me they were upgrading from a LNL. Just heresay evidence though.
I have never loaded a squib rifle or pistol round on any of my Dillons.
I've had a 1050 since 1995 and I have used it exclusively for pistol. The only thing I have noticed is that being a "production press" the priming system doesn't like mixed brass very much. The depth of primer seating once set is fixed so if rim thickness or pocket depth varies from case to case primer seating depth can be compromised.
I use a RCBS 2000 (manual index) for everything else I load on a progressive. I like it a lot.
i got tired of fighting the damn LNL in .40 cal and switched over to .45acp. the primers refused to seat deep enough in new starline brass. the spring loaded primer seater bottoms out against the frame and won't go any further upwards. finally i glued a washer to the frame under the seater and now 99% of the primers seat deep enough to allow the shell plate to index. the LNL has a case feeder and i have to hold a finger against the side of the shell slider or else the cases hit the slide bar and fall off onto the floor. i'm sure i will figure that out too given enough time but damn it is frustrating. i have to monitor 3 things at once (case feeder, primer feeder arm, primer depth) for every round. i can get a rythm going but it takes the fun out of it. i have too much invested in it just to chuck it and start over but i sure would like to get out from under it!!
This guy with the 1050 must have been a total doofus then.
In all fairness, he was fighting the primer system and mixed brass in 9x19. He was a newbie with a progressive. Powder and primers every where. He was just inexperienced.
In response to what markm said about dillons primer setup. Dillon uses a couple different types for different models. The 550 may take some tweaking.....or so I've herd ?. Maybe. My 650 has never been a problem. Approx 300k of 45acp so far. As a side note. The 1050 is a machine. It's not just a reloader you go down and buy at your local gunshop to reload a few rounds.
Kill By Number
03-24-10, 16:19
I also have an LNL and am experiencing same problem. My father in law suggested taking out the shell plate screw, replacing it with a threaded rod you could lock tite in place (making it a permanent stud). Then use a lock nut with the polymer washer in it so it won't back off. I haven't had a chance to look at my machine yet to see if it will work, but it sounds promising and should help hold it in place.
I also have an LNL and am experiencing same problem. My father in law suggested taking out the shell plate screw, replacing it with a threaded rod you could lock tite in place (making it a permanent stud). Then use a lock nut with the polymer washer in it so it won't back off. I haven't had a chance to look at my machine yet to see if it will work, but it sounds promising and should help hold it in place.
i talked to a dillon rep and he said their machines have a dedicated set screw to hold the shell plate screw in place. i could always locktite the shell plate screw in place but then i couldn't loosen it when i need to because the shell plate won't rotate because of another damn high primer. i have over $1100 in it and have it in the local paper for $750. if it won't sell i may just buy a 650 and start over. i know theres 1000's of these things in use though.
I've loaded something like 75k rounds on a Dillon 650. It occasionally doofs, but for the most part, I can kick out several thousand rounds between anything odd happening. Once or twice the priming system has jammed and I've had to take it apart and clear it. That's been about the only real show stopper. I have broken a few springs, Dillon replaced them under warranty. The case slider that inserts the case into station 1 finally wore out after around 50k rounds, Dillon replaced that too.
It ain't perfect but it has worked really well for me. I'd buy it again in a heartbeat.
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