Steel Target Safety

[jimmyhots]

I just picked up a AR500 steel target. Looking forward to shooting it but have never shot at steel and am concerned about safety. What I'm worried about is the heads of the carriage bolts sitting on the front face of the plate creating a surface that is not uniformly flat. This is probably a non-issue right? What do you all think?

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_nItRGkIoos4/S5sb-KulDBI/AAAAAAAAAOU/9UpkQHoTdNE/plate1.1.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_nItRGkIoos4/S5sb-IrUNiI/AAAAAAAAAOY/F5uItqlin68/s512/plate2.JPG

[orionz06]

The bolts should just deform if hit, they are going to be much softer.

[Hoss356]

The bolts should just deform if hit, they are going to be much softer.

Steel bolts are softer then lead bullets? How do you figure? But the hanging plate should absorb much of the energy from the bullet, even should the bullet hit the crown of the bolt I don't see how it could become a problem. I'm sure someone else on this forum has considerably more experience in this matter and could chime in.

[one]

I've shot a lot at a steel FBI Q target. It hangs from a single bolt in the center of the "head" or "neck". I shot the bolt thousands of times before it ever broke. And when it did the head didn't break off, it was down in the threaded body.

All that happened was the target fell straight down onto the ground and I bought a couple new bolts the next day and started the process all over again.

You should have way less problems with your two bolts being off center of aim as opposed to where my single one is located.

[orionz06]

Steel bolts are softer then lead bullets? How do you figure? But the hanging plate should absorb much of the energy from the bullet, even should the bullet hit the crown of the bolt I don't see how it could become a problem. I'm sure someone else on this forum has considerably more experience in this matter and could chime in.

Than the plate I meant (also assuming 5.56/.223). Any off angle deflection would most likely be avoided as the bolt would deform rather than allow the bullet to deflect beyond the backstop.

[luckyguy1]

instead of through bolts why not weld a couple of rods at the rear of the plate and then attach your string to that rod?

it should give you the same hanging angle as those bolts.

if you do hit one of those bolts they will be a PITA to change out if they get deformed enough.

[41Gunner]

If you are using standard rated bolts, they will not last long with direct hits. FMJ 223 will chew the head up with 5-6 hits. Get a higher grade hardened bolt or weld studs on the back of the target to hang the target with.

Or do like I did....I welded a peice of steel pipe on the back of the head, at the top, then use a short peice of heavy steel rod thru it to hang the target up with. This setup allows the target to swing, gets the hanging system high to minimize bullet hits. And if and when the rod gets damaged you just replace the steel rod, affords quick and easy range repair.


41Gunner

[sinister]

You're fine. Your target should give you years of good service.

If/when the bolts break get some new ones.

[arizonaranchman]

I've put untold thousands of rounds on steel. Not a problem. The bolt does eventually fatigue and give out but have a couple super hardened steel bolts as spares on hand for this event so you can keep the shooting going with a few minutes time of repair. Those steel cables will be vulnerable if you have a wild shot so be careful of that.

Have the steel plate angled either up or down a bit and you'll have no "return fire" from the target.

Steel is my all-time favorite by far. I only use paper targets for fine-tuning my sights. Once the sights are set it's always steel that I'm shooting at - or fur... :) Hit it with a spray paint of your liking (I prefer white paint) to freshen it up after some hits and you can always see where your rounds are going.

[jimmyhots]

I finally took my plate out and shot it. Two of us hammered it with our AR-15s at 225 yards. Went great! No damage to the plate after approx 150 - 200 rounds other than a couple insignificant chips on the edge. Shooting at steel is fun. Below are some pictures for anyone interested.

Jimmy

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_nItRGkIoos4/S7AkVc_8PXI/AAAAAAAAAPU/xuP73oC9a70/s512/1.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_nItRGkIoos4/S7AkVXR6oNI/AAAAAAAAAPY/1M3NYG8gMPM/s512/2.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_nItRGkIoos4/S7AkVphidoI/AAAAAAAAAPc/4V1XCbPoxPU/s640/5.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_nItRGkIoos4/S7AkV4hP7eI/AAAAAAAAAPg/Io1x72Dczfg/s512/6.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_nItRGkIoos4/S7AkV2KZqGI/AAAAAAAAAPk/BfrOZYO9XFk/s640/7.JPG

[m4fun]

Awesome - Looks like a Natchez special.

What did you use to drill the steel if I may ask?

[jimmyhots]

Awesome - Looks like a Natchez special.

What did you use to drill the steel if I may ask?

I had the guy I bought it from put a square hole in each shoulder so I could use carriage bolts to hang it. He uses a plasma cutter.
http://www.qualitytargets.com

JH

[skyugo]

man i miss shooting steel.

[John_Wayne777]

man i miss shooting steel.

It's a bit like dating a midget.

[Ark1443]

It's a bit like dating a midget.

Do tell!



j/k that's disturbing :D

[David Thomas]

It's a bit like dating a midget.

how so?

[TAZ]

I'd be more worried about that backstop than the bolt heads causing somegoofy ricochet. You're eventually going to tear up the bolts if you keep missing COM but they are cheap to replace, even if you buy higher grade than standard Home Depot inventory. May want to invest in a shovel brigade and build up the berm behind your target.

[CarlosDJackal]

Steel bolts are softer then lead bullets? How do you figure? ...

I think he's comparing it to the target itself. I can attest that when the bolts get hit by bullets, it takes a nice half-moon chunk out of it.

To the OP - buy some spare bolts and nuts so that it they are hit you can just replace them and drive on. FWIW, I have 2 "Q" steel targets from LETargets.com and I have yet to replace the bolts - I just don't aim for them. I also shoot these targets at 100-yards.

[orionz06]

I think he's comparing it to the target itself. I can attest that when the bolts get hit by bullets, it takes a nice half-moon chunk out of it.


Correct, soft enough to be damaged by the bullet rather than deflect a solid bullet into the window of a nursery and/or orphanage

[John_Wayne777]

how so?

It's mainly a joke I coined in regards to a comment about my shooting ability at a class once. Some of the regulars around here were in class with me and one commented on how fast I cleared a plate rack. In reality it looked a lot more impressive than it was because of the circumstances. Add to this that a few of them had been trading tips on free porn sites complete with discussion of midget porn that had occurred a short time before, and suddenly I had the perfect metaphor...which hopefully I don't have to explain in any more graphic detail. :D

[David Thomas]

JW, I understand. Thanks for explaining the joke.

To the original poster, Jimmyhots:

your wooden frame may get chewed up quickly. My targets spit a lot of lead out to the sides.


Also, as stated by others the bolt should not be a concern, esp if you are shooting long distance. If the target was indeed cut how you say it was you are in good shape.

I have some AR500 that was apparently cut with a torch and the soft edges will cause a problem at close range.
IF/when the target starts to crater or show damage confine it to long distance shooting.

also steel targets can warp/bend and will benefit from being shot on both sides. This maybe hard to visualize given my poor explanation, but I will try to get some pics later this week.


The pic below shows a piece of a jacket from a 45 acp bullet that landed on some papers that were on the tailgate of my truck, while I was shooting steel. I was shooting the steel at 10 yards. The tailgate of the truck was approx 20 yards away with the truck facing away from the targets.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v441/DavidThomas/016-5-1.jpg

[David Thomas]

also steel targets can warp/bend and will benefit from being shot on both sides. This maybe hard to visualize given my poor explanation, but I will try to get some pics later this week.




the face down side of this home-made target was shot so much it caused the target to bow. (steel was just some cheap stainless steel):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v441/DavidThomas/044-1.jpg

[CarlosDJackal]

FWIW, this is the steel target I've been shooting at with ball or soft point .223s as wellas pistols:

HV STEEL Q TARGET & STAND (http://www.letargets.com/estylez_item.aspx?item=%23KDHV+(E)+STOCK)

[Wicked]

instead of through bolts why not weld a couple of rods at the rear of the plate and then attach your string to that rod?

As a weldor and shooter, I've made more than a few targets in my day. Here are some tips for steel targets I can offer:

AR500 is thru-hardened abrasion resistant steel plate. Using any process that involves heat will anneal (soften) the plate in the local area. Plasma, laser or torch cutting and any welding process will create a softer annealed heat affected zone next to the weld or cut. I only cut out target plates (3/8" thick AR500 for rifle and AR400 for pistol/rimfire) with a water jet cutter, that way the plates are never softer around the edges. I do not weld anywhere on the plate. It's difficult to get even properly welded joints to withstand the shock of repeated shooting and then the front of the plate anywhere you weld will become softer.

Bolts are definitely the best way way to connect the plate to a target frame or hanger, I use grade 8 button heads as they're hardened and only slightly more expensive than hardware store junk in full boxes. The heads last significantly longer and can be ground off with a body grinder to remove them. I drill the holes for bolts through the plates with carbide ballmills in a Bridgeport mill. As the targets are not welded to the frame, they can be reversed as the face becomes pitted from repeated shooting. A badly spalled and pitted target face greatly increases the risk of ricochet.

If you haven't shot steel, you're missing out on great fun. Just do it safely and think about it first. It's good common sense to 1.) make sure of your surroundings 2.) expect bullets to go anywhere 3.) wear eye pro anytime shooting, but definitely on steel targets. I feel a safe distance minimum is 25 yards for pistol and 100 yards for rifle. As always, your milage may vary.

[jimmyhots]

Here's a vid of me shooting my steel target with AR15 & AK47:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPVsyschZ5I

[Bubba FAL]

+1 on the minimum distance recommendation. I caught a jacket fragment just above my upper lip shooting a little too close to steel with an M1 Carbine. SOB burned like hell and I had to peel it off. Just glad I was wearing eye protection.