DD Lite 7.0 Rail...

[Razorhunter]

Has anyone got some good up close pics of the Carbine (7") lite rail INSTALLED on a rifle?
I saw one upside down pic on the DD website, but that was all.
I'm on the verge of buying one, but I need to see some GOOD up close pics of this rail installed on a rifle. That's just how I operate I guess.
Can anyone help out?
Thanks.

[M4Guru]

https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?p=2457#post2457

[Stickman]

Here are a few DD 7.0 Lite pictures of my mine. The first series shown below is of my duty weapon.





http://stickman.rainierarms.com/galleries/Daniel%20Defense%2C%20Inc./DD-7-0-lite-wear-Stick.jpg


http://stickman.rainierarms.com/galleries/Daniel%20Defense%2C%20Inc./IMG_0721%20Stick.jpg


http://stickman.rainierarms.com/galleries/Daniel%20Defense%2C%20Inc./IMG_0720%20Stick.jpg


http://stickman.rainierarms.com/galleries/Daniel%20Defense%2C%20Inc./IMG_9929%20Stick.jpg

[Stickman]

Here are some of my others.


http://stickman.rainierarms.com/galleries/Daniel%20Defense%2C%20Inc./DD-7-LITE-Eotech.jpg


http://stickman.rainierarms.com/galleries/Daniel%20Defense%2C%20Inc./DD-LITE-PIRATE-3.jpg


http://stickman.rainierarms.com/galleries/Daniel%20Defense%2C%20Inc./DD-LITE-PIRATE-4.jpg

[Razorhunter]

Once again, Stick is the MAN!
Where did you get that Lower that has the Calico Jack Pirate w/ crossed swords rollmark ??? Never seen a lower like THAT!

Also, thanks to M4Guru for posting the link to the old thread.
I think I'm sold on a DD 7.0 Lite...

[Razorhunter]

Hey guys,
I just received my new DD 7.0 Lite Rail today.

Now when I FIRST spoke with my DD dealer over the phone, he said that the DPMS upper receiver block I bought, was exactly what I needed to install this rail.
So, when I went to pick up the Rail from my dealer, I showed him the new DPMS white colored, upper vise block, which is made out of Delrin, and has two pins for sliding through the upper pivot and take-down pin holes. He then told me that he did not realize what type of upper vise block the DPMS was, and he said it wouldn't work that well, and I might not be able to torque down on the upper receiver without bending it, when I go to loosen the bbl nut/etc.
He showed me the upper vise block HE uses, and it was the Brownells CLAMP type, which actually clamps OVER the rifles upper from the OUTSIDE.
This is unlike my DPMS upper vise block, which slides up inside my rifles upper, and has two pins w/detents, which slide into the holes of my pivot and take-down pins. Apparently, he also says that the DPMS block I have is NOT a claw type, but it's a clamp type.
I explained to him, that MY DPMS block is a CLAW type, and HIS Brownells block that fits OVER the outside of the receiver, is considered to be a CLAMP type.
I am basing my opinion off this forum, where some of you told me that the WHITE DPMS block is a CLAW type, and it's the best type to use, to keep from marring/scratching up my uppers black finish.
I was also told on this forum, that the CLAMP type, is like the one my dealer has, that clamps over the outside of the upper, and MANY TIMES will scratch the uppers finish.

SO, I need you guys to tell me what's up here. BEFORE I start installing my new DD 7.0 Lite Rail, I need to know if I have the proper upper vise block, and I need to know if there is ANY risk in using this block, versus another type.
I have NO problem buying another vise block, or any other tools for that matter, IF I need them to do the job RIGHT the first time.
I have the special DD Lite Rail wrench, a regular USMC Armorers wrench, and all the punches I could need.
I don't know if I need a strap wrench, OR a torque wrench yet, but I always thought when doing bbl nuts and things similar, that a torque wrench was best to use.
Again, I have no problem buying ANY tool I need.
What say Stick?
Is my DPMS upper vise block going to work, or is there a better choice?
How about the torque wrench?
How about ANY other tools I might need?
Thanks.

[Robb Jensen]

I use the DPMS white block, the receiver sits down on it and its held in the at the takedown pins holes. I've had to relieve some of the Delrin from the front edge of the block to allow it to fit with Lite Rails because of the flange. I use the bottom of the block to face the handle side of the vise and a piece of wood or a padded vise block on the opposite end against the top of the receiver.

For a Lite Rail install you'll need a DD Lite Rail barrel wrench as well.

[Razorhunter]

Yes I've got the proprietery DD Lite Bbl wrench.

However, I was unaware that the DPMS vise block was used in that "sideways" manner.
I thought it was just used with the vise block being clamped down at the bottom, just below the pins, and with the receiver on TOP....
Interesting....

I'm still wondering if this method is cause for concern. I suppose your method is stronger gotm4.
Maybe I'll try it. I just want to be SURE that I'm not going to bend or warp my receiver.... Very scary thinking about that....

[Robb Jensen]

The sideways method is very strong. I've done it the other way too using the DPMS block as long as your not approaching 80ft lbs or more you shouldn't mess up a receiver. If you ever have to remove a LMT installed barrel, use the sideways method (I think LMTs assembers are on steroids ;)). If you ever have to torque past 55-60ft lbs try a barrel shim available from Randall www.ar15barrels.com. I used one yesterday on my new 3gun upper to get it right at 60ft lbs.

[Razorhunter]

gotM4,
The link you posted is not working for me right now.
WHAT is a barrel shim????
I'm currently trying to decide on a torque wrench to purchase, and would love to hear what others use. I definitely want a quality tool, but not TOO expensive. Not sure if one exists that is quality, but not to expensive though.
Thanks.

[Razorhunter]

Nevermind,
I know what they are now. Sweet deal, glad you mentioned them, as they could come in handy.
I'm assuming they are basically shim stock, cut into pieces specifically designed for this application...

[Robb Jensen]

Nevermind,
I know what they are now. Sweet deal, glad you mentioned them, as they could come in handy.
I'm assuming they are basically shim stock, cut into pieces specifically designed for this application...

Exactly, I rarely ever need them but they are very handy.

[Stickman]

Paul.

Sounds like GotM4 took care of the questions. Make sure you take some pictures when you are done!

[Razorhunter]

Ok guys,
I got my flash hider off, as well as the FSB and stock bbl nut too. Damn those Colt bbl nuts are TIGHT. Thought I was going to break my arm for a while there, but I finally got it off with the breaker bar.
Anyhow, I wanted to ask a couple things before I finish the install tomorrow.

1. I slid the DD "bolt up plate" onto the bbl before anything else (per instructions). I then slid on the new DD bbl nut, and proceeded to finger tighten it. I then noticed that the bbl nut had not even began to engage the bolt up plate, and I can see that it's going to take a LOT of tightening down of that new DD bbl nut, for it to begin to engage the bolt up plate.
Is this correct? I mean, I know the new DD bbl nut has got to be tightened down REAL tight, but I wouldn't have thought the bolt up plate would be loose like this, even after the bbl nut had been finger tightened real good. As stated, it's going to take a LOT of tightening of the nut for it to begin to engage the DD bolt up plate... Anyone else experienced this?

2. Is there any need at all, to put any type of grease or anti-seize on the threads before I install the bbl nut? I know there are other types of rails that call for this, and I know the Bushmaster Factory Armorers Course book calls for it too, when one is installing the factory bbl nut onto the receiver. Bushmaster refers to it as "Molybdenum Grease" or something? like that, which apparently helps with galling, and possibly acts like an anti-seize? Dunno, but I DO know other companies sometimes call for it, and even though DD does not mention it with the Lite Rail instructions, I thought I'd check.
I probably over-engineer things at times, but this is my first armorer work, and I want to make sure nothing is overlooked...

[Stickman]

The plate will rotate even when tight, which allows for simple installation and alignment of the gas tube. Don't base the barrel nut tightness off the plate.

I always use moly when I install a barrel nut. I've got a pint of the stuff that some of my military armorer friends gave me, and that will last me 6 life times. It doesn't take much.

If I missed part of your question, I'm running on 2 hours of sleep, and I'll try to catch up with the thread in the morning. IM or email me if you need anything, or you can always email or IM Daniel Defense.

[Razorhunter]

The plate will rotate even when tight, which allows for simple installation and alignment of the gas tube.
.


So what the hell keeps the rail from rotating and moving on me, when the installation is complete?????????



Also,
What product name is this "moly" sold under, so I can purchase my own somewhere???? I assume MSC/McMaster Carr/etc would have it, if I can just find out what it's called....

[GunLovinTexan]

Those nifty little screws :D

moly grease is picked up at most automotive stores. mine came from autozone.

the stuff i used last is under the name Coastal. Its in a silver and black can.

Coastal premium Moly EP GREASE.


Rob

[rob_s]

While this often is a point of some contention, I prefer to use the "correct" moly that is available from Bushmaster over that which you get at the auto parts places.

http://bushmaster.com/shopping/lowers/ms-100.asp