View Full Version : Do I have a reliable weapon system?
What I guess I want to know is would my rifle with what I have done to it do well in a carbine course!
*RRA 16" carbine with free float rails
*Heavy 1:9 chrome lined barrel
*RRA 2 Stage Trigger
*Rifle feedramps the have been made into m4 clone feedramps
*Staked castlenut
*BCM M16 Bolt Carrier Croup
*BCM GunFIGHTER Charging handle
*H Buffer
*A.R.M.S #41 Silhouette Floding Front Sight
*A.R.M.S #40 Folding Rear Sight
*GearSector Sling Plate
*GearSector Single Point Sling
*512 Eotech
* Surefure G2 LED
*VLTOR Flashlight Mount
*Magpul AFG
*Magpul CTR
*Magpul XTM Rail Panels
I know some are cosmetics, but while I was doing the run down, I figured I wouldn't leave anything out!
http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv162/michschi/IMG_0901.jpg (http://s680.photobucket.com/albums/vv162/michschi/?action=view¤t=IMG_0901.jpg)
TriumphRat675
03-25-10, 13:05
It's a parts gun. They're good parts, but I think the only way you'll be able to tell if it will make it through a carbine course is to actually use it in a carbine course.
The only way someone could really express an opinion one way or the other would be if you were using a known quantity factory-made rifle.
Looks like a really effing front heavy weapon system.
The only way to tell if it will be reliable or not is to go shoot it. A lot.
Looks like a really effing front heavy weapon system.
The only way to tell if it will be reliable or not is to go shoot it. A lot.
Its really not that front heavy. At least not much more then other ones I have handled!
It's a parts gun. They're good parts, but I think the only way you'll be able to tell if it will make it through a carbine course is to actually use it in a carbine course.
The only way someone could really express an opinion one way or the other would be if you were using a known quantity factory-made rifle.
Well its not really a parts gun! It was an full rifle, and then I replaced the parts that I thought based on the knowledge I have aquired here, the were second rate with top notch hoping to get reliable performance out of it!
remove the BCM GF sticker from your case and you'll be fine.
Is the gas block pinned on or does it use screws?
Like 87GN said only way to find out if it's reliable is to shoot it a lot. Stop cleaning it for a few thousand rounds and see what's up. Take a carbine class, etc.
PrivateCitizen
03-25-10, 14:08
250 rounds …
… for general function check and the ability to proficiently clear a malfunction.
Then you will have an idea. The unit itself is only a component of the reliability of a setup.
Nice rig!
Is the gas block pinned on or does it use screws?
Allen Screws
With strict regard to reliability, and if it were to be hard use toward defending life, if it were MY rifle the items that would cause me some apprehension would be;
- 2 stage trigger
- the Arms sights
- the set screw gas block
- possibly the Eotech...
But, my advice is to just run it hard and see what, if anything breaks down. :)
With strict regard to reliability, and if it were to be hard use toward defending life, if it were MY rifle the items that would cause me some apprehension would be;
- 2 stage trigger
- the Arms sights
- the set screw gas block
- possibly the Eotech...
But, my advice is to just run it hard and see what, if anything breaks down. :)
Can I ask, what do you think the problem with the ARMS sights will be?
Stevieterry
03-25-10, 14:58
I have that same bookbag.
Got it from a national guard meeting that i went to with my friend haha.
Can I ask, what do you think the problem with the ARMS sights will be?
pinned gas blocks are preferred for absolute reliability.
You can stake the screws if it makes you feel better. Heat cycling with heavy use, and abuse for general use may eventually cause screws to back out.
I'm just a civilian shooting enthusiast: i'm not jumping out of helicopters or tossing my rifles into gun trucks or anything. However, getting a pinned gas block solution seems like cheap insurance to me. ARMS offers that gas block as a pinned options IIRC.
Also, I hate hate hate hate heavy barrels. It might not be much pieing around the house, but take a 3 day carbine course and that unnecessary weight adds up. Heavy profile barrels exist only because companies want to save money on machining time to increase profit margins. I'd either get that barrel turned down, or just straight up buy a new barrel from Daniel Defense or something. Swapping the barrel should be easy peasy for you if you have a vice block and armorer's wrench. This is one case where have a set screw gas block is advantageous, haha
I also prefer Magpul XT panels because they are lighter. I run the standard FSB because it's cheap and is the most durable. I run the Aimpoint T-1 because of it crazy longevity and durability (thinking about going to a DD mount to shave off 2 ounces). I run the MBUS because i like it's design and weight, and its overall durability aint bad either. I also run a Surefire G2 (with TNVC drop in 235 lumen bulb) but i've added a Z59 on/off tailcap and use the plastic VTAC mount to save weight.
I've got about 7K rounds through this rifle, 2K of it at a Magpul class, and I take it out shooting in the mountains and to local run 'n gun competitions frequently. Never had a single malfunction (but plenty of short strokes: I was using 24.0 gr of AA2230 powder in my reloads, bumped it up to 25.0).
http://www.pbase.com/image/121278105.jpg
pinned gas blocks are preferred for absolute reliability.
You can stake the screws if it makes you feel better. Heat cycling with heavy use, and abuse for general use may eventually cause screws to back out.
I'm just a civilian shooting enthusiast: i'm not jumping out of helicopters or tossing my rifles into gun trucks or anything. However, getting a pinned gas block solution seems like cheap insurance to me. ARMS offers that gas block as a pinned options IIRC.
Also, I hate hate hate hate heavy barrels. It might not be much pieing around the house, but take a 3 day carbine course and that unnecessary weight adds up. Heavy profile barrels exist only because companies want to save money on machining time to increase profit margins. I'd either get that barrel turned down, or just straight up buy a new barrel from Daniel Defense or something. Swapping the barrel should be easy peasy for you if you have a vice block and armorer's wrench. This is one case where have a set screw gas block is advantageous, haha
Guess everything has its upside! Thanks for the advice!
from the specs you list, it seems like an overall solid weapon. since you're asking:
i'd consider getting the chamber reamed with a reliable 5.56 chamber reamer.. it'll ensure you're not over-pressuring the weapon with an under-sized headspace, and it'll open up the chamber itself and prevent stuck cases
from a sooper-reliability standpoint, and depending on what you do with your gun, the comments about the ARMS sight are all correct. some things you could do, and that i'd recommend- mill or tap the barrel to accept the block set-screws. one of the bigger problems with set-scewed sights is the risk of rotation. once you've given the screws something to grab, install the screws with red loctite and stake in place. loctite all by itself doesn't help much at the gas block, as it turns to powder at 450ish degrees... and the gas block is likely to get hotter than that with rapid fire.
the Eotech may or may not give you problems.. i can't call this a "reliability" issue, because even if your 'tech goes down, you still have BUIS.. the 'techs are kind of an anomaly in the gun world- they have a pretty proven track record of failures, yet people who demand only the best in firearms will still use them. not sure whats up with that.
and as mentioned, the RRA 2-stage triggers aren't known for the best reliability, and for a carbine, they're also generally inappropriate. depends on the weapons use, again, but for a fightin' get-down-and-dirty gun, a 2-stage is a reliability issue as well as a safety issue- a good 6-7lbs single-stage is much less likely to ND you. if you chose to keep the RRA 2S, keep in mind they seem to only last about 5000 rounds before turning into a long, gritty single stage or failing altogether. yours may or may not, but that's what i've seen.
OR-
just keep everything the way it is, dont worry about it, and have fun. its your gun, and only you know your specific situation, uses, and needs.
I would honestly say no. You have several things (from your optic, to your sights, to your trigger and barrel) that are not known for the highest reliability.
C4
Whootsinator
03-25-10, 16:17
I really don't mean to insult you, and I'm definitely not one of the top guys on this forum, anyone that carries a firearm for a living, or an expert on the AR-15. Truthfully I'm only a longtime lurker on this board that tries to pick up as much information as possible, and I don't even own an AR-15, but hope to remedy that when I can.
All of that said, it looks to me like you took a pretty questionable rifle and threw on a whole lot of products with names that people might like or be familiar with in hopes of coming out on the other side with a decent rifle. If all you're doing is plinking in the backyard or range, you've probably accomplished your mission, but this is not what I would consider from my research a good to go reliable firearm ready for hard use.
The couple critical things I would change are the sights. Replace that front folding sight with a pinned "F" marked sight. If the barrel is not pinned send to ADCO to have them pin and install the sight. Replace the rear sight with a Troy BUIS.
I'm not a fan of 2 stage triggers in a defense gun, that's just me though. I would put a standard trigger in it.
Take it to the range and run it.
Jay Cunningham
03-25-10, 16:40
What I guess I want to know is would my rifle with what I have done to it do well in a carbine course!
*RRA 16" carbine with free float rails
*Heavy 1:9 chrome lined barrel
*RRA 2 Stage Trigger
*Rifle feedramps the have been made into m4 clone feedramps
*Staked castlenut
*BCM M16 Bolt Carrier Croup
*BCM GunFIGHTER Charging handle
*H Buffer
*A.R.M.S #41 Silhouette Floding Front Sight
*A.R.M.S #40 Folding Rear Sight
*GearSector Sling Plate
*GearSector Single Point Sling
*512 Eotech
* Surefure G2 LED
*VLTOR Flashlight Mount
*Magpul AFG
*Magpul CTR
*Magpul XTM Rail Panels
I know some are cosmetics, but while I was doing the run down, I figured I wouldn't leave anything out!
You need to put some rounds through it, fella. ;)
The heart of the gun is the BCG, which should be good. Unsure about the "made into M4 feedramps" thing.
Put 500 rounds through it, get it hot. Make sure it is well-lubricated. Put some witness marks on anything that could turn.
Good luck!
Shoot the hell out of it, that's the only way you'll know, even if you had said you bought a Colt, BCM, or Noveske.
If I were you I would definitely get rid of the RRA 2-stage trigger though. In my opinion they are one of the worst triggers on the market and I wouldn't put one in any of my rifles even if they were free. I would much rather have a solid single stage or a Geissele SSA.
As for everything else, only time and hard use will tell. I doubt you'll have any issues though.
KentuckyWindage
03-25-10, 17:15
Can I ask, what do you think the problem with the ARMS sights will be?
A.R.M.S. = http://www.jesus-is-savior.com/Evils%20in%20Government/Communism/communism_is_evil.jpg
Take that anti gun supporting crap off your rifle....or leave it on and fight for the red army.
Other than that, shoot the gun. You will be fine.
"Do I have a reliable weapon system?"
You've just asked a question only you can answer. You can spend a million bucks on the best parts out there and due to some one in a million material or manufacturing oddity the rifle will go tits up. You can also go the cheap route and get the one in a million rifle that runs like a top. The odds go up and down correspondingly with the money "usually".
You have obviously already spent the money so you might as well pound rounds down range to see if everythings running harmonious like.
Everyones already made the same parts comments I would.
I would honestly say no. You have several things (from your optic, to your sights, to your trigger and barrel) that are not known for the highest reliability.
C4
I understand the barrel, but alot of people run Eotechs and I haven't much much bad about them. As far as the buis, can you shed some light on that for me. I know the trigger is like it or hate it, and I don't have an opinion on it yet.
I understand the barrel, but alot of people run Eotechs and I haven't much much bad about them. As far as the buis, can you shed some light on that for me. I know the trigger is like it or hate it, and I don't have an opinion on it yet.
Over the last 2 years we have seen to many issues with EOTech's to recommend them.
The XPS line looks like it fixed the battery issues, but then we are seeing them having zeroing issues.
The ARMS BUIS's do not lock up and have seen to many of them come off of guns.
It is not a matter of "not liking the trigger," but a matter of reliability. The RRA 2 stages are the most unrelaible triggers on the market and see them shoot out their second stage all the time. It is such a problem that some dealers have offered "fixed versions" of them from day one.
C4
How many rounds do you have through the rifle? I'm a new AR guy so I can't comment on your components, but I can tell you that I don't carry a firearm for self defense until I hav several hundred rounds of the carry ammo through it without a hiccup. That gets expensive when we are talking about Gold Dots, but it's my life I'm protecting...
I would say run buku rounds through it and see what holds up and what doesn't.
By the way, no disrespect to anyone, but does anybody just operate with a stock rifle? As I dig into this fighting rifle world, I can't help but think "more gadgets=more things to fail"
TriumphRat675
03-25-10, 19:47
By the way, no disrespect to anyone, but does anybody just operate with a stock rifle? As I dig into this fighting rifle world, I can't help but think "more gadgets=more things to fail"
Some people like KISS rifles, but Aimpoints and Surefire flashlights are basically bulletproof, they greatly increase the rifle's capabilities, and even if they fail you can still use the rifle effectively. They're really the only gadgets you need, so why not use them?
How many rounds do you have through the rifle? I'm a new AR guy so I can't comment on your components, but I can tell you that I don't carry a firearm for self defense until I hav several hundred rounds of the carry ammo through it without a hiccup. That gets expensive when we are talking about Gold Dots, but it's my life I'm protecting...
I would say run buku rounds through it and see what holds up and what doesn't.
By the way, no disrespect to anyone, but does anybody just operate with a stock rifle? As I dig into this fighting rifle world, I can't help but think "more gadgets=more things to fail"
A red dot sight is a must have. A flashlight is a must have.
With that said, there are different levels of quality and one should always try and get the best quality that they can afford.
C4
Do I have a reliable weapon system?
[QUOTE=Luke_Y;610828]With strict regard to reliability, and if it were to be hard use toward defending life, if it were MY rifle the items that would cause me some apprehension would be;
- 2 stage trigger
- the Arms sights
- the set screw gas block
- possibly the Eotech...
But, my advice is to just run it hard and see what, if anything breaks down. :)
Can I ask, what do you think the problem with the ARMS sights will be?
I'll elaborate a bit as I have more time now. The context that would cause me reliability concerns with these items would be duty use, personal defense use, or even a gun intended to just serve reliably for years and years.
- 2 stage trigger
The RRA 2 stage has a reputation for unpredictably shooting out and becoming a long crappy single stage. As well as reports of failing to reset, doubling, or just failing full stop. A standard trigger will also last longer. I would run a standard trigger. If I had to have a 2 stage I'd look at the Giselle SSA.
- the Arms sights
Well, the ARMS doesn't lock up, I had one back in the day and it fell apart (guess that's what the safety wire is for). I wont get into their crappy mounts. There are better options out there. If I needed a reliable folder I would opt for the Troy. If reliability were my primary concern, I would opt for the Daniel Defense Fixed.
- the set screw gas block
Same concerns with the ARMS sight. Also I may have misspoke here as I think that is actually a clamp on without set screw. A clamp on that also uses a dimpled/flat set screw would be an improvement. A pinned gas block would be better, especially when not covered by rail. A pinned fixed FSB would be the most reliable solution. If that rifle came with a pinned FSB I would put it back on.
- possibly the Eotech...
I debated saying anything here as it inevitably leads to drama. And I like the Eotech, even own one. But, with reliability as the criteria, the fact that there is controversy is enough to go another direction. There are options such as the Aimpoint or ACOG depending on needs that don't come with reliability controversy.
But, if this rifle is not in the category stated above (duty use, personal defense use, or a gun intended to just serve reliably for years and years.) and is for fun and games, then I stand by my suggestion to just run it hard and see what, if anything breaks down.
CaptainDooley
03-25-10, 22:44
A red dot sight is a must have. A flashlight is a must have.
With that said, there are different levels of quality and one should always try and get the best quality that they can afford.
C4
From what I've seen recommended here and other places I would trust - there's really only one recommendation for a red dot sight...
Given that it's a "must have" and you recommend buying the best you can afford - have you seen anything outside of Aimpoint that you would recommend? Or does red dot advice still consist of "save until you can afford an Aimpoint"?
It is not a matter of "not liking the trigger," but a matter of reliability. The RRA 2 stages are the most unrelaible triggers on the market and see them shoot out their second stage all the time. It is such a problem that some dealers have offered "fixed versions" of them from day one.
Building off this point, RRA triggers are substandard in design, manufacture, and metallurgy. They will go from double stage to single stage or just break all at once.
Super junky potmetal cast crap.
I would replace the trigger with a quality standard USGI set up. That doesn't mean order a standard trigger from RRA, that means order a standard trigger from Colt, LMT, DD, Noveske, or BCM.
Heavy Metal
03-25-10, 23:56
Building off this point, RRA triggers are substandard in design, manufacture, and metallurgy. They will go from double stage to single stage or just break all at once.
Super junky potmetal cast crap.
I would replace the trigger with a quality standard USGI set up. That doesn't mean order a standard trigger from RRA, that means order a standard trigger from Colt, LMT, DD, Noveske, or BCM.
Giesele would be a super choice for an enhanced FCG.
Everything I've seen so far suggests that is it fixable, The only thing I question is the comment about the feed ramps, Exactly how were they changed from "rifle" feed ramp into "M4 clone" feed ramps?? file? dremel? and who did this? you? RRA?
Everything I've seen so far suggests that is it fixable, The only thing I question is the comment about the feed ramps, Exactly how were they changed from "rifle" feed ramp into "M4 clone" feed ramps?? file? dremel? and who did this? you? RRA?
I maybe should have worded that different! They look like m4 feedramps but the be done with a tool after the upper what put together, as they have a shiny aluminum look. This what done at the factory and looks pretty well but they are not m4 feedramps. Sorry for the confusion.
You are going to have to get the chamber reamed to 5.56 specs and you are going to have to spend some money to have this done.
You would be better off replacing the entire barrel and this would get rid of the ARMS front sight at the same time.
CaptainDooley
03-26-10, 09:27
Ah, so standard RRA feed ramps then...
You are going to have to get the chamber reamed to 5.56 specs and you are going to have to spend some money to have this done.
You would be better off replacing the entire barrel and this would get rid of the ARMS front sight at the same time.
In my opinion, he's better off just replacing the upper, if not the rifle, entirely. The upper receiver feed ramps will probably not align correctly with a new barrel (without machining, which adds more costs), meaning the upper receiver will most likely need to be replaced. Combine that with the clamp-on FSB and the overall general quality of RRA free-floated rails (providing that they're factory), you're looking at replacing everything but the BCG.
If it was me, at this point, I'd just try to sell the entire rifle to someone who loves RRA and buy a whole new upper and build myself out a lower to my specs. You'd be able to salvage the BCG, H buffer, and charging handle. Otherwise, you're looking at the very least replacing the gas block/FSB, upper receiver, and barrel (again, provided you don't want to ream it - I personally wouldn't).
In my opinion, he's better off just replacing the upper, if not the rifle, entirely. The upper receiver feed ramps will probably not align correctly with a new barrel (without machining, which adds more costs), meaning the upper receiver will most likely need to be replaced. Combine that with the clamp-on FSB and the overall general quality of RRA free-floated rails (providing that they're factory), you're looking at replacing everything but the BCG.
If it was me, at this point, I'd just try to sell the entire rifle to someone who loves RRA and buy a whole new upper and build myself out a lower to my specs. You'd be able to salvage the BCG, H buffer, and charging handle. Otherwise, you're looking at the very least replacing the gas block/FSB, upper receiver, and barrel (again, provided you don't want to ream it - I personally wouldn't).
I wouldn't go that far. The things I suggested wouldn't cost much. If he still has the factory FSB the gas block/front sight problem is a free fix. The rear sight could be fixed for $70-$100 add a mil spec trigger and he should get off fairly cheap.
I thought that only the stainless RRA barrels had the wylde chamber and the standard CL barrels had 5.56? If not getting it reamed wouldn't be much...
I wouldn't go that far. The things I suggested wouldn't cost much. If he still has the factory FSB the gas block/front sight problem is a free fix. The rear sight could be fixed for $70-$100 add a mil spec trigger and he should get off fairly cheap.
I thought that only the stainless RRA barrels had the wylde chamber and the standard CL barrels had 5.56? If not getting it reamed wouldn't be much...
It is chambered in 5.56, I believe only thier varmint rifles are are Wylde. I know you are not a fan of the arms sights, but I bought this front sight and i love it. I have no plans to change it. BUT, with that said can I stock the nuts or something to stop them from backing out, or at least mark them and the to see if they are loosening up! I am not opposed to changing the barrel at some point or a trigger kit. Can you recommend or give me a kink? Thanks for the help!
Thomas M-4
03-26-10, 11:25
Why do you have to have the folding front sight?
That is the biggest weak link right there.
BTW I used to use an ARMS#40 folding BUIS and since replaced it with a Laure fixed BUIS. I could not be happier with the switch.
Why do you have to have the folding front sight?
That is the biggest weak link right there.
BTW I used to use an ARMS#40 folding BUIS and since replaced it with a Laure fixed BUIS. I could not be happier with the switch.
Because I like that it is out of the way and that when its up it looks like the regular fixed sight. I read good reviews on it, and I am not ready to give up on it yet, so I was looking if anyone has an idea to help it from coming loose.
Thomas M-4
03-26-10, 11:43
Because I like that it is out of the way and that when its up it looks like the regular fixed sight. I read good reviews on it, and I am not ready to give up on it yet, so I was looking if anyone has an idea to help it from coming loose.
Just mount the eotech on a riser for a lower 1/3 cowitness. The front sight will not be in hogging up your field of view. And then you can run the most durable and battle field tested front sight made the GI one.
Not to be an A$$ hole just saying others have pointed out the problems with it.
Just mount the eotech on a riser for a lower 1/3 cowitness. The front sight will not be in hogging up your field of view. And then you can run the most durable and battle field tested front sight made the GI one.
Not to be an A$$ hole just saying others have pointed out the problems with it.
I am not accussing you of being and a$$hole but I have already stated, that I am not giving up on this sight yet, If you can offer info to make it for reliable, great
Thomas M-4
03-26-10, 12:20
I am not accussing you of being and a$$hole but I have already stated, that I am not giving up on this sight yet, If you can offer info to make it for reliable, great
Get the pinned in version of the vltor unit.
http://www.vltor.com/vst.htm
most advice given here is usually very sound.
Because I like that it is out of the way and that when its up it looks like the regular fixed sight. I read good reviews on it, and I am not ready to give up on it yet, so I was looking if anyone has an idea to help it from coming loose.
I used lock tite on my 40L. It is not coming off...(although I wouldn't try clubbing rhinoceroses in the Sahara with it). Yes it does not lock up, but once deployed, it will not lock back down if it gets bumped. The spring keeps it firmly in the up position. It would only fall back down if the large coil spring breaks. Even though it isn't #1 recommended on here, it works for me, small, out of the way, fast to deploy.
BushmasterFanBoy
03-26-10, 18:12
There's no way of knowing until you put the rounds through it. Good parts are a smart choice and a wise investment, especially if you enjoy having a gun work out of the box, but there's still no substitute for shooting the darn thing. When you have a reliable gun, you'll know it, because you've put thousands of rounds downrange without a hiccup.
Off the cuff, if that were my gun, I'd ditch the eotech and the arms front sight. I've not heard good things about the reliability of 2 stage triggers, so I'd toss that too.
But again, none of those things are critical. What is critical, however, is to shoot the thing before you show up to a class.
Jay Cunningham
03-26-10, 20:04
The MagPul AFG has ZERO to do with how reliable a rifle may or may not be. There are eleventy billion other threads talking about it. Quit derailing this thread.
If I am not clear PM me and I will explain it in graphic detail.
St.Michael
03-27-10, 01:24
Looks like a really effing front heavy weapon system.
The only way to tell if it will be reliable or not is to go shoot it. A lot.
what would make it heavy? Isn't everyone running a light and the afg these days?
Quiet-Matt
03-27-10, 06:21
Michschi, My first AR was a RRA, and I still have it. I shoot it regularly still, and I have made it into my multi-use small critter blaster. The only problem I had out of the 2 stage trigger was the pin that holds the disconnector would back out, so I mushroomed the end of the pin and problem went away. That trigger serves me well for target shooting, but is too fragile and light for a defensive/hard use stick. Spend the money on a good military trigger and rest easy. I had the chamber on my RRA checked and its NATO so its GTG. Dropped a H buffer in. I had to stake the castle nut because RRA uses lock tite:rolleyes:. I had a friend re-profile the barrel under the handguard to a military profile and dropped nearly half a pound off the gun. The reason I keep this one is because of the way it shoots. It has never had a single malfunction, shoots any ammo you want to put in it flawlessly, shoots .22's accurately, and shoots the most accurately with wolf:eek:. So, she gets to keep her parking space in the safe. That bieng said, I would not trust my life to that delicate trigger. I would take mine to a carbine course, but as a back up to my BCM. You've made alot of necessary changes to your gun, so your on the right track. If you like that front sight sink as set screw, witness mark everything and test drive it hard. That's the only way to know if YOU have a reliable system. Keep us updated brother.
The Morrigan
03-27-10, 19:45
First, have you signed up for the course yet?
How far off is it?
and
How much money do you have to spend between now and then?
If you're already signed up and don't have much money, then just take rifle and good luck.
If you're signed up and have a bit of money, buy a case of ammo, go to the range and shoot the hell out of it (the whole case, in one or two days). Fire it hot, fire it cold. Fire from strange angles (sideways prone, Spetsnaz prone,etc). If you have the cajones, drop it from chest height a few times. If it's a good carbine course, you will move -- a lot. You'll transfer from shoulder to shoulder, have to get behind cover fast. in other words, you're likely to fall on, or drop the rifle more than once. If it survives that, you'll probably make it through the course, and you can start replacing stuff later.
If you have a long time and/or a lot of money to work with then start changing stuff out. Do like the guys said, get the chamber reamed, get a good BUIS. If you're set on the front sight, go for it, YMMV. The EOTech should make it, although you might not want to try the drop tests. Decent Gi triggers are cheap, I'd replace it anyway. I happen to like 2 stage triggers, so. . .get a good one.
what would make it heavy? Isn't everyone running a light and the afg these days?
A combination of factors. The rail system with a light, AFG, and full Magpul XTM's coupled with the fact that he's running a lightweight stock.
The rail will obviously add a lot of weight (relatively speaking), but more importantly, he has a heavier contour barrel that throws all of that weight onto a longer arm, creating a greater moment in terms of leverage. The stock is short and ultralight for all intents and purposes, so it doesn't help balance the weight out.
A combination of factors. The rail system with a light, AFG, and full Magpul XTM's coupled with the fact that he's running a lightweight stock.
The rail will obviously add a lot of weight (relatively speaking), but more importantly, he has a heavier contour barrel that throws all of that weight onto a longer arm, creating a greater moment in terms of leverage. The stock is short and ultralight for all intents and purposes, so it doesn't help balance the weight out.
Its really doesn't feel that front heavy. I haven't had to carry it all day but I think I could without to much trouble.
Everything I've seen so far suggests that is it fixable, The only thing I question is the comment about the feed ramps, Exactly how were they changed from "rifle" feed ramp into "M4 clone" feed ramps?? file? dremel? and who did this? you? RRA?
RRA just adds the ramps with a grinder then polishes them. They aren't as deep into the receiver as "real" M4 ramps. In effect, it's really just a ramped barrel extension.
RRA just adds the ramps with a grinder then polishes them. They aren't as deep into the receiver as "real" M4 ramps. In effect, it's really just a ramped barrel extension.
There you said it better then me!
RRA just adds the ramps with a grinder then polishes them. They aren't as deep into the receiver as "real" M4 ramps. In effect, it's really just a ramped barrel extension.
Still, that's corner cutting at it's finest...In a area that going to see some wear, the last thing you want to do is remove andonizing (sp?)and leave the bare aluminium in it's place..If RRA was smart..They'd cut the ramps in BEFORE the upper is andonized..Maybe it's time to stop and rethink, before any more money is spent..
John_Wayne777
03-28-10, 11:16
By the way, no disrespect to anyone, but does anybody just operate with a stock rifle? As I dig into this fighting rifle world, I can't help but think "more gadgets=more things to fail"
Some people's concept of a "fighting" rifle is based on use of the weapon under ideal range conditions with nothing on the line. Notice that those whose understanding of what a "fighting" rifle should be is based on actually fighting with a bunch of them don't regard things like RDS or a white light as merely "gadgets". When a former CAG guy who was the lead training and equipment guy for that unit tells everybody that those items (and a good sling) are must haves for a weapon meant for serious social interaction, I would think that should pretty much settle the issue.
White lights allow identification of a potential threat. The overwhelming majority of us will face dire consequences for shooting at shadowy figures in the dark. The authorities (military and civilian) prefer recognition of a reasonable threat before engaging someone with lethal force. Unless you are part owl or are wearing nods, you will need a white light to do that in low light.
Hitting the threat is similarly preferred to launching bullets aimlessly into the environment. The RDS makes that task easier than iron sights under a wide variety of circumstances. Try using an AR with any accuracy in low light without a RDS. It don't work so good.
I hear the "gadget" thing all the time. It's stupid. IF all of those gadgets fail you have a weapon that is just as capable as the luddite's caveman special, so you are in no worse position than he is. If, however, they work (and the quality options on the market do work very well even under extreme circumstances) then the person behind that rifle is going to be more effective...which translates into more dead bad guys and more good guys going home in one piece. To forgo the real and provable enhancements these items provide is as silly as forgoing the firepower of an assault rifle for a bolt action because the automatic rifle might jam.
Still, that's corner cutting at it's finest...In a area that going to see some wear, the last thing you want to do is remove andonizing (sp?)and leave the bare aluminium in it's place..If RRA was smart..They'd cut the ramps in BEFORE the upper is andonized..Maybe it's time to stop and rethink, before any more money is spent..
the reason they're doing it post-anodize is because they're burning up un-wanted A3 receivers. they're cheap, rather than stupid, in this case.
however... "see some wear" is inaccurate. the barrel extension feedramps get a little action, but the extensions into the receiver do not. remember that they exist as nothing more than a failsafe. if rounds are continually stripping so low that they're "wearing" the extension, you have problems that need to be addressed.
so while extremely cheesy and cheap to "dremel" in feedramps, so long as they're done well, there's nothing necessarily bad about doing so.
John_Wayne777
03-28-10, 11:29
I am not accussing you of being and a$$hole but I have already stated, that I am not giving up on this sight yet, If you can offer info to make it for reliable, great
Most fix it by replacing the inferior piece of gear with one that works as it should. Those who do not are gernerally constrained by some regulatkion that prohibits them from doing the sensible thing, which is why troops stuck with arms gear zip tied and para-corded everything to their rifle. If you ar looking for some sort of voodoo trick that will suddenly make it not suck, you are out of luck.
The best advice you can get is the knowledge that a piece of gear sucks so you can sell it and buy something that doesn't require time and money to try and compensate for the suckage. Trust me on this: it's better to ditch sub-standard gear than to try and fight with it.
Still, that's corner cutting at it's finest...In a area that going to see some wear, the last thing you want to do is remove andonizing (sp?)and leave the bare aluminium in it's place..If RRA was smart..They'd cut the ramps in BEFORE the upper is andonized..Maybe it's time to stop and rethink, before any more money is spent..
This couldn't be more of a non-problem.
Grab a handy AR, pull the bolt and put a loaded magazine in the weapon. Now look through the ejection port. Notice how much or how little of the ramped portion of the receiver is exposed between the front wall of the magazine and the bottom of the barrel extension.
Now slide the round forward and see what it contacts and where. With a Colt GI 20 round mag I found it impossible to *ever* get the round against the receiver ramp because the front wall of the magazine is too high. Even if I pull the rear of the round up substantially it's still impossible. The round hits the front magazine wall then the ramp on the barrel extension.
I tried the same observation with some GI 30 round mags and some old Thermolds I have. Same thing. No contact.
So what are those ramps in the receiver actually doing? It appears they extend into the receiver only to match the feed angle that's cut into the extension. The round never really feeds across them. Even if it did, how many lifetimes would it take for a brass bullet to substantially wear a piece of forged and heat treated aluminum?
To the larger question, it seems the OP spent quite a bit of $$ to make a gun that's likely less reliable than the one he started out with. The BCG change was probably a good idea. The rest of the changes like the ARMS front sight don't appear to be improvements. Staking the castle nut? Meh. Unless he's using it as a pry bar he'll probably never break the Loctite free. Most don't seem to be able to break it free when they want to.
Other than the potential problems with the RRA 2 stage trigger and the BCG he already changed, the gun he started out with probably would have run fine, possibly better than what he has now.
This couldn't be more of a non-problem.
It doesn't matter if it's a problem or not - that's not the issue at hand. It's the fact that instead of actually going the extra length and getting the correct receiver for their customer, they decide to dremel in the feedramps, but even this isn't truly what's wrong.
This is really a case of RRA trying to compete against the top-tier manufacturers who offer M4 feed ramps. They know their product can't compete for the tacticool crowd with the rifle feedramps, so they dremel out perfectly good rifle feedramps just to add the "m4 feedramps" standard option to their rifles. The big joke here is that it isn't needed nor beneficial for semi-auto users, so they add them to gain more market share, but they can't even do that right. They're doing the cheapest fix so they can get more customers.
How hard is it for them to pay for an aluminum upper that costs them MAYBE $30? Instead of going the extra step and making sure what they create is quality, they simply dremel existing uppers and try to pass this crap off as "quality" - it isn't.
If they'll do this with feedramps that weren't even needed in the first place, what other aspects of manufacturing are they cutting corners on that we don't even know about?
In my books, they're garbage.
Quiet-Matt
03-29-10, 19:18
The RRA of mine that I mentioned earlier is built with a standard rifle extension in a standard flat top reciever. No dremeling was done to it. Perhaps its because it started its life as a standard carbine and not a make believe M-Faux. :rolleyes:
Well, maybe I'm wrong.. I stand corrected. I thought the feed ramps were to help feed longer bullets like the 77gr..However, even though this may be a "non-issue" the method used to install them was wrong, and they did it in a fashion that defines half assed.. and the customer gets boinked,again.. When you see little short cuts like this, It begs the question, what other cost cutting methods are they using?
If it is a non issue, then it must be cosmetic, and open to personal taste and opinion. To me it is a non issue, period. My rifle isn't a fashion show.
Be sure to dump a few mags of steel cased ammo thru it, that will test the reliability. My RRA would choke on steel cased but after I did a few improvements which mirror yours, it eats it up. Shoot and have fun...
It doesn't matter if it's a problem or not - that's not the issue at hand. It's the fact that instead of actually going the extra length and getting the correct receiver for their customer, they decide to dremel in the feedramps, but even this isn't truly what's wrong.
<snip>
In my books, they're garbage.
Maybe I missed the "issue at hand." The OP asked if he he had a reliable weapon. We had 3 kinds of posts to help him answer that question.
1. Fix these things they are likely to cause you problems.
2. Don't worry about these things they're a non issues.
3. Your rifle is garbage.
I'll let you pick which type is not helpful to him, or anyone else for that matter...
Will take it from your hands to mine to show what a nice guy I am.
Go with what ya got, if it breals while training no worries, if it breaks in as fight bad on ya.
Be safe.
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