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calvin118
04-27-10, 18:12
I am new to AR's, and am seriously contemplating getting one as a primary home defense gun (and part time plinking implement). After a lot of reading here I am leaning towards:

DD stripped lower (G&R Tactical, options below)
LPK: GR Tactical +LMT Components
Receiver Extension: GR Tactical 6 Position Mil-Spec
Castle Nut: GR Tactical
Receiver Plate: GR Tactical
Buffer Springs: GR Tactical SS
Buffers: H2
Rear Grips MOE Black
Stocks: MOE Black
Trigger Guards: MOE Black

BCM Uppers (G&R Tactical, options below)
16in Mid Length (Light Weight)
Bolt Carrier Group: BCM M16 BCG
Charge Handle: BCM MOD4

Accessories:
Magpul BUIS
Magpul AFG

I am a bit conflicted on the rail. I'm 6'8" and suspect that all the length I can get on the rail might help with comfort and leverage- so at first I was inclined towards a 12" DD with the AFG on the end. Do you guys think this is overkill, or would a 9" rail be more than enough? As a frame of reference, I always feel that I would be more comfortable and have better control if I could place my hand farther out while shooting AK's. I would appreciate any opinions regarding which rail to choose. I plan to mount a Surefire G2, AFG, and Aimpoint.

I'm sold on a middy, but is there any disadvantage to the lightweight?

Any recommendations for the flash suppressor, or are the differences primarily aesthetic?

Any other recommendations or suggestions regarding how to make this build better?

Thanks in advance.

ForTehNguyen
04-27-10, 18:44
build looks good

I would recommend a H buffer instead of an H2 for a midlength system. Damn youre tall. Im 5'9 and I use a 12" rail, so dont worry that its too long. Theres no major disadvantages to a lighweight. If you plan to take classes with it then youll see the benefits of lightweight. Those ounces add up. Only real disadvantage is you cant blaze your gun like a SAW, but thats not a problem on semi autos. There are performance gains in flash signature for flash hiders: Smith Vortex and AAC Blackout are the best at reducing flash.

Fullbird
04-28-10, 17:26
Your build list looks OK, but for my first AR I would buy a used one in good condition at a fair price. Take it out on the range and get familiar with it, shoot it, clean it, etc. Then you can decide whether you want to build one or just continue using the one you bought. If you decide to build one, you can sell the one you bought or like the rest of us on this board, end up owning two or more.

Putting together a lower requires a few special tools that are not cheap. Sure, you can assemble a lower with a screwdriver, hammer, punch set and vise grips, but you run the risk of scratching and dinging you receiver. If you are building the rifle for your personal satisfaction, then go ahead. Otherwise, buying a used one is a cheaper way to go.

My 2 cents.

DocHolliday01
04-28-10, 17:28
Your build list looks OK, but for my first AR I would buy a used one in good condition at a fair price. Take it out on the range and get familiar with it, shoot it, clean it, etc. Then you can decide whether you want to build one or just continue using the one you bought. If you decide to build one, you can sell the one you bought or like the rest of us on this board, end up owning two or more.

Putting together a lower requires a few special tools that are not cheap. Sure, you can assemble a lower with a screwdriver, hammer, punch set and vise grips, but you run the risk of scratching and dinging you receiver. If you are building the rifle for your personal satisfaction, then go ahead. Otherwise, buying a used one is a cheaper way to go.

My 2 cents.
My guess is he is going to have Grant build upper/lower, but why not buy what you want the first time? :confused:

calvin118
04-28-10, 19:12
Yeah, my plan was to buy quality the first time and not have to bother selling or buying twice. I'd don't mind paying as long as I am getting quality.

Although I've never owned an AR, I have shot a decent number and generally know what to expect. This isn't a matter of buying it to decide whether I like it.

I've decided to go for the 12" DD lite rail after reading a number of old threads here.

And DocHolliday is right, I plan to have Grant put it together for me.

If nobody has any last minute recommendations, I plan to put the order in later this evening.

Thanks all for your help.

TwoSqueeze
04-28-10, 19:36
I've decided to go for the 12" DD lite rail after reading a number of old threads here.

If you are only planning on putting BUIS and Light on the rail I would seriously look into the Troy or VTAC extreme rail in 13". You won't save a ton in wieght but it gives you an extra inch out there for your 6'8" frame. The other upside to this rail is that it is a breeze to don and doff should the need arise.

-TS

calvin118
04-28-10, 23:14
Done! Thanks again for everyone's help.

ForTehNguyen
04-29-10, 08:38
since your 6'8" shouldn't you be using 6.8mm ;)

j/k

calvin118
04-29-10, 22:11
One last bump in the road...

I need a gas block that will be compatible with the lightweight BCM 16" Middy and a Daniel Defense 12" Lite rail. Grant does not offer the service of shaving down the FSB. G+R has the VLTOR low profile gas blocks in stock and they have been recommended to me. I have several questions:

1) Does anyone know if the VLTOR clamp style low profile gas block will fit on this setup?

2) If not, would you guys trust the screw set model on this setup?

3) Would you guys just skip the aftermarket gas block altogether and dremel the FSB down, buy the tools, and install the DD rail myself?

4) Any better ideas? I'd hate to have an issue like this compromise the reliability of the build.

Thanks again everyone.