View Full Version : Starting AR Mods
this spring i got my first AR, i got a rock river arms entry tactical. i would like to start making some modifications to it this summer but i dont want to b spending a small fortune just yet on it. i was thinking about possibly making mods to the bolt, but i am new to ARs and want some other builders opinions on were i should start.
so if any of u could give me some tips that would b a great help. Thanks :)
Thomas M-4
05-04-10, 22:42
First things 1st I would do to an RRA is. Neds 5.56 chamber reamer and ream the chamber.2nd Re-stake the buffer tube because RRA doesn't 3rd check and Re-stake gas key if it needs it. You mentioned bolt mods 4th upgrade would be a LMT or BCM bolt. 5th good mags GI with magpul followers or P-mags. 6th correct buffer H- buffer if you plan to shoot alot of .223 pressure ammo or maybe H-2 buffer if you shoot mostly 5.56 pressure. After that maybe a sprinco standard [blue] cs buffer spring.
Jay Cunningham
05-04-10, 22:44
Have you shot it yet??
DaBears_85
05-04-10, 22:59
...i was thinking about possibly making mods to the bolt...
What kind of mods are you going to make to the bolt?
Welcome aboard, viperpit7. You've come to the right place. Where in WI are you? I lived in Omro just outside of Oshkosh for a while. Cute little town.
i was thinking about possibly making mods to the bolt, but i am new to ARs
What mods were you considering, and more importantly...why? I'm with The_Katar on this one -- shoot it a bunch first. See what you find to be less than optimal, and then go from there.
There are a lot of things to do with an AR - some practical, some cosmetic, some very specialized to certain applications - but starting to change a bunch of stuff around without some context of what you want and why you want it, it could end up just wasting money.
BrigandTwoFour
05-04-10, 23:35
A fairly easy one is the set screw mod on the rear takedown detent. Makes it nice and easy when you choose to change the base plate to an ASAP or something else, the spring doesn't go flying.
I'm sure you can find a how-to somewhere for it. I spent maybe ten dollars on it between the set screw and the 4-40 tap and drill.
ChicagoTex
05-05-10, 01:55
A fairly easy one is the set screw mod on the rear takedown detent. Makes it nice and easy when you choose to change the base plate to an ASAP or something else, the spring doesn't go flying.
I'm sure you can find a how-to somewhere for it. I spent maybe ten dollars on it between the set screw and the 4-40 tap and drill.
While it's inexpensive and not that big a deal, I view that mod as very much a "why bother?" sort of thing. Really, how often do you replace the endplate on your rifle? Once? Maybe twice? The irony is you're going to at least that much trouble (and more) to do the mod in the first place.
Have you shot it yet??
Beat me to it.
Needed modifications to a basic AR configuration generally reveal themselves with use.
You mention modifying the bolt, why? What is the current bolt not accomplishing for you?
Personally, if it were me:
1. Stake everything that needs staking.
2. Replace the extractor spring and insert with BCM parts.
3. Run it until something breaks.
If you are completely new to the world of AR’s, before looking at mods or accessories, I would start out with:
Study The Operators Manual And Maintenance Manual
- Learn the disassembly/inspection/cleaning/reassembly/function checking of the weapon.
- Learn how the weapon operates, the correct nomenclature of its parts, and how those parts interact with each other.
- Learn your iron sights. Become proficient with them. Learn the procedures for zeroing the weapon.
Welcome aboard, viperpit7. You've come to the right place. Where in WI are you? I lived in Omro just outside of Oshkosh for a while. Cute little town.
What mods were you considering, and more importantly...why? I'm with The_Katar on this one -- shoot it a bunch first. See what you find to be less than optimal, and then go from there.
There are a lot of things to do with an AR - some practical, some cosmetic, some very specialized to certain applications - but starting to change a bunch of stuff around without some context of what you want and why you want it, it could end up just wasting money.
ohm to answer most peoples questions, i am new to most AR stuff and the reason i mentioned the bolt is because i figured it would b an easy place to start, ive got around prob 300 rounds through it so far, the only things i wish were a little diffrent are 1. muzzle control is a little odd, i wish there was a bit steadier recoil on it or maybe it is just me? 2. i wish it fired a LITTLE bit easier/free-er/ faster? if u catch my drift i have a RRA tactical stage 2 triger which is supposed to b all the buzz rite now, but it is a little bit too much pull... i want a lighter trigger. those are about the only things i dont like so far.
1. muzzle control is a little odd, i wish there was a bit steadier recoil on it or maybe it is just me?
I think you should shoot it some more, and preferably get a little bit of instruction/training before making any changes to try and alter the recoil. A basic AR doesn't have a very significant recoil impulse, and a proper grip/stance/technique can make it very controllable. Beyond that, muzzle devices can help in this area and are an easy swap and better yet are less likely to have some adverse affect on the function of the weapon than messing with the internals. Changes to the bolt/carrier/buffer/spring system can help as well but need to be well-understood and carefully applied since it can cause problems if one starts swapping parts semi-randomly.
2. i wish it fired a LITTLE bit easier/free-er/ faster? if u catch my drift i have a RRA tactical stage 2 triger which is supposed to b all the buzz rite now, but it is a little bit too much pull... i want a lighter trigger.
I'm generally just fine with a standard single stage generic AR trigger so I don't have much advice for this one.
What are you using the rifle for? Home defense? Competitions? LEO/Mil? Range toy?
There's a million and one different ways to set up an AR, and knowing it's primary use drives gear choices.
I bought my AR as a fightin' rifle. When I first bought it I added all sorts of crap, and after taking a few carbine classes found that most of it just didn't work. I've since taken a lot more carbine classes and participate in 'tactical shoots' (think IDPA with rifles, minus the dumb rules) and have a MUCH better idea of what my rifle needs to suit me better. If that's your goal, go through some classes first and see what works and what doesn't, often times you'll get to try out a lot of different setups and see how things work in real life.
If it's a range toy then do whatever makes you feel good, that's the point. For a dedicated competition gun just go to those matches and see what people are running, I'm sure they'll help you get started with the proper gear to get better times.
[QUOTE=Joeywhat;651459]What are you using the rifle for? Home defense? Competitions? LEO/Mil? Range toy?
rite now i am just using it for a range toy, may hunt some coyotes with it, but i just want to make it more effecient is all.
i live in a small part of wisconsin, in dunn county so idk how much there is out here for classes on ARs and such or even competitions for that matter.
when i bought the gun it had a solid front sight on it, if i wanted to change it out for a back up sight, how would i go about removing the one i have on?
when i bought the gun it had a solid front sight on it, if i wanted to change it out for a back up sight, how would i go about removing the one i have on?
Easiest way? Shave off the upper portion of the sight block.
The more difficult way, remove your gas tube, knock out the two retaining pins, remove your flash suppressor and slide it off. But then you have to install a low profile gas block, which brings us back to the easy way.
Magic_Salad0892
05-12-10, 03:42
The most combat reliable AR-15s made should have the following: (IMO.)
- Nickel Boron, or Teflon on upper receiver, lower parts kit, and bolt carrier group.
Here you have options.
*Spike's Tactical Bolt Carrier Group
*FailZero Bolt Carrier Group
*LWRCi Bolt Carrier Group (If you're going to install a piston - Essentially not needed. But I like it, and won't withhold the information.)
- Nitriting the barrel. Barrel should be cold hammer forged.
Most barrels on the market are cold hammer forged anyway. If I bought a bushmaster, I'd get rid of the barrel anyway. You don't have to, but it's just a suggestion. I'd recommend BCM, or Noveske. (More towards Noveske.)
- 9310 for bolt material, it would be optimal if bolt also had Nickel Boron/Teflon coating.
Recommended Bolts:
Colt, BCM, Spike's Tactical, LWRCi Advanced Combat Bolt. (Not proprietary.)
- Better trigger
I'd recommend. LMT 2 stage, KAC 2 stage match, or LWRCi enhanced fire control group. (or LWRCi Nickel Teflon Coated LPK while your at it, though the Bushmaster LPK should serve you just fine.)
- Heavier barrel (double chrome lined, with match chambers)
See Noveske barrels.
- 5 Coil Extractor Spring
A must on all defensive ARs in my opinion.
- Chrome Silicon Extra-Power Action Springs
Sprinco makes these. Will help with a neglected rifle, DI or Gas Piston.
Relatively cheap, with a noticeable upgrade in reliability, and making sure the weapon properly goes into battery, even in AK like conditions.
- H2 (or H3) buffers (Spike's Tactical ST-T2 buffer is my choice. FWIW.)
This makes the Extra Power Action Springs all the more effective.
- Midlength gas systems
Less parts wear, softer shooting.
- A Piston (If it REALLY makes you feel better.....)
Not needed, but if you aren't comfortable with the attributes of the DI system, and it's problems, and virtues. Then you have the option of a short stroke Gas Piston. It has different problems, and virtues, which I prefer, but to each his own. The DI system will serve you JUST fine. If you choose to go this route, I strongly recommend, Adam Arms with the LWRCi bolt carrier, they sell them on their website.
- Gas Block Mounted Front Sights (longer sight radius, lower profile sights)
KAC makes my preferred set of Gas Block Sights, though they cost more than most barrel assemblies.
Alternatively VLTOR makes a Gas Block Mounted Front Sight, much cheaper, very effective.
- Crane O-Rings
Helps with extraction.
If this rifle will be used to defend your life, this is my recommendation, while it'll be no doubt pricey, how much if your life worth? When you need it, you REALLY need it.
Input from others about my recommendations are welcome, and I hope for them to weigh in.
Littlelebowski
05-12-10, 05:25
Please don't upgrade anything. You don't need to. I've never felt the need for an upgraded bolt and probably never will. I'd rather have ammo and training.
Sounds like you need a red dot optic ammo, mags, and training. Did I mention training? Has anyone else? This is a clue. Take a carbine class.
it never ceases to amaze me how quickly people want to go about "improving" things without the first idea about what's wrong with what they've got.
Littlelebowski
05-12-10, 06:53
Perhaps we can guide him.....
- 5 Coil Extractor Spring
'bout the only thing you posted that I agree with. since you asked.
All the rest of that spendy, trendy, stuff you posted costs money that would be better served in training and practice. I'll take a shooter with a stock RRA Entry Tactical with a couple of training classes and a few thousand rounds fired under his belt over any gunshop commando with the same amount of money sunk into his gas-piston, jesus-jizzed-on, heavy-barrel, whirlygig rifle and no goddamn idea which end the bullets come out of.
Magic_Salad0892
05-12-10, 07:05
I was assuming he had the training. I didn't really read the thread.
You shouldn't even be posting about modifications if you're not proficient.
You need to know how to deal with an unequipped, faulty/malfunctioning rifle, or unideal weapon before you make modifications to your ''go to'' rifle.
You should take a carbine course with a bare bones AR-15 before an ambidextrous magazine release, red dot sight, or suppressor even touches the rifle. (I did.)
I plan to take an AR-15 armourer's course to get even more proficient with the platform, and should have before I even made an adjustment to my stock gun.
My above recommendations, are ones I believe are mandatory though, any gun, regardless or type, or caliber, needs to be conceivable as a self defence firearm in order to justify purchase. IMO.
an out of the box Colt 6920, BCM4, Daniel Defense, or truthfully S&W M&P or even a gone-over RRA or BM is MORE than serviceable as a self defense gun. Christ, an Olympic Arms and 20 minutes in capable hands is a more than serviceable self defense gun.
Most of what you posted is simply nothing more than a transfer device, designed to transfer money from your pocket to theirs, and while it may have some benefit somewhere to someone is nowhere near what I would call "mandatory", not by a long stretch.
Let's restate things to be clear:
Colt 6920
Aimpoint
Sling
Ammo
Magazines
Training
Practice
Ammo
Practice
Practice
Ammo
Practice
White light
Low-light training
Ammo
Practice
Practice
Ammo
Practice
Then start worrying about things like rails, jesus-jizz, alternate operating systems, etc. Maybe. I think that most people that actually follow that plan figure out that they don't have a need for any of that other junk.
Magic_Salad0892
05-12-10, 07:53
Training and practice are the best modifications to a weapon, then the weapon needs to be fit to the operator. Then they need to train with their weapon of choice.
But in a platform that is reliable to the needs I have determined for myself through training, malfunction clearance, inspection, practice, modifying, and more practice.
That is the list I've come up with for me. It may not work for everybody.
Granted, a lot of that is for a short barrelled, suppressed, or neglected rifle.
Basically adverse conditions modifications.
Also alternate operating systems aren't mandatory even if a piston is my preference. ''Piston pushing'' is unacceptable. I run an LWRCi gun, but would willingly bet my life on a DDM4, BCM 11.5, Mk. 18 Mod. 0, Colt LE6921, any day of the week.
I'd like to know your reasoning behind why my modifications are redundant in your eyes. I respect your opinion, and would appreciate input, sir.
I think you're fixing what ain't broke, to put it simply. All these special parts and coatings, weird springs and widgets, etc. I don't get. Are they hurting anything? I don't know, I guess not other than separating you from cash that would likely be better spent elsewhere, but if you're getting your training and practice and still want to put all that stuff on/in your gun then have at it, it's your gun.
I know from watching a shooter or two over the years as well as my own experience that the best recipe for reliability is a quality firearm, well lubed, with decent ammo, and that tinkering and fiddling are recipes for problems far more often then they actually solve any problems. Problems which are most often more a figment of the user's imagination than anything else. Everyone thinks their own little piece of voodoo is "mandatory", but if you start with a quality firearm to begin with it most often isn't even a nice option, let alone mandatory.
Magic_Salad0892
05-12-10, 10:15
I think you're right, but these quality run rifles work better in adverse conditions with a few small adjustments, such as heavier buffers, and buffer springs, and extractors.
The extra coatings are to help ''dry lubricity'' and are proven. All of them work together.
Except for a gas block mounted front sight, that's just user preference, and I can't get used to a normal one now.
In my experience, if any of these upgrades made a faulty or less reliable rifle, then I wouldn't do it.
Think of it as my own personal version of Ken Elmore's SAW Reliability Package.
I think that's what the guy's name and service is. I could be wrong, it's on here somewhere. He worked for Colt Defence a number of years, and does this.
Littlelebowski
05-12-10, 10:16
In what adverse conditions have you used these rifles with these mods in, MagicSalad?
Think of it as my own personal version of Ken Elmore's SAW Reliability Package.
How do your qualifications and experiences stack up to Ken's? What have you found lacking in the TDP-spec guns and what has failed on you and how that makes you believe what you're doing is better?
Belmont31R
05-12-10, 10:39
The most combat reliable AR-15s made should have the following: (IMO.)
SNIP
Jesus Christ. Its a wonder any of our guns even get a round off without all that jazz. Oh wait they go thousands of rounds without being cleaned, and still work just fine. :rolleyes:
Magic_Salad0892
05-12-10, 10:44
Adverse conditions I've ran the gun in:
11.5'' Suppressed DDM4 that I used to own, that I got rid of very recently to my sister.
Weapon went numerous times to the 5000 (highest was 6000, where the gun became a bolt action.) round mark, in rapid fire without cleaning and lubricant, in the rain, numerous times getting rain, and other debris in the bolt carrier group. To find out what worked, and what didn't.
How does my experience stack up to Ken's?
It doesn't. My experience doesn't stack up to the pros. :(
Things on standard carbines that failed me?
On higher round counts with light buffers and no cleaning, my rifle would fail to go into battery, or fail to extract, due to debris in the extractor. I was also having magazine problems due to them not being cleaned either. (Totally different issue.) and the rifle not being able to feed them properly. I think the feeding issue was also magazine related as it didn't happen with Lancer's or PMAGs.
Basically I want to make my dirtier DI gun run better, some of these things go on my KAC gun, other things, don't need to.
Also made them a hell of a lot faster to clean, carbon, and unburned gunpowder didn't corrode on BCG, and trigger unit.
One reason I'm for gas block sights, as opposed to sight posts, is rust due to non-parkerization under FSBs. I don't know who does, and doesn't do this. So I stay away from it altogether. Even the LWRCi guns with FSBs.
I'm trying to find a solution for myself for the cutoff point in heavier buffers in high round counts. Where debris makes it so that the BCG cannot be pushed all the way back, and fails to cycle, and go into battery. It's been mentioned before recently, and ever since I've read it. I've been researching a solution, this has been a very recent experiment for me. Actually the last two days.
I'm getting ready to go out and put rounds down range, to experiment.
With a suppressed gun, these things make a much bigger difference.
Input wanted.
Magic_Salad0892
05-12-10, 10:47
Jesus Christ. Its a wonder any of our guns even get a round off without all that jazz. Oh wait they go thousands of rounds without being cleaned, and still work just fine. :rolleyes:
If you're confident in your firearm, and it performs reliably, then don't make any changes. It works for you.
As for me. This is what works. A mix of excellent materials, and parts.
Belmont31R
05-12-10, 10:58
Adverse conditions I've ran the gun in:
11.5'' Suppressed DDM4 that I used to own, that I got rid of very recently to my sister.
Weapon went numerous times to the 5000 (highest was 6000, where the gun became a bolt action.) round mark, in rapid fire without cleaning and lubricant, in the rain, numerous times getting rain, and other debris in the bolt carrier group. To find out what worked, and what didn't.
How does my experience stack up to Ken's?
It doesn't. My experience doesn't stack up to the pros. :(
Things on standard carbines that failed me?
On higher round counts with light buffers and no cleaning, my rifle would fail to go into battery, or fail to extract, due to debris in the extractor. I was also having magazine problems due to them not being cleaned either. (Totally different issue.) and the rifle not being able to feed them properly. I think the feeding issue was also magazine related as it didn't happen with Lancer's or PMAGs.
Basically I want to make my dirtier DI gun run better, some of these things go on my KAC gun, other things, don't need to.
Also made them a hell of a lot faster to clean, carbon, and unburned gunpowder didn't corrode on BCG, and trigger unit.
One reason I'm for gas block sights, as opposed to sight posts, is rust due to non-parkerization under FSBs. I don't know who does, and doesn't do this. So I stay away from it altogether. Even the LWRCi guns with FSBs.
I'm trying to find a solution for myself for the cutoff point in heavier buffers in high round counts. Where debris makes it so that the BCG cannot be pushed all the way back, and fails to cycle, and go into battery. It's been mentioned before recently, and ever since I've read it. I've been researching a solution, this has been a very recent experiment for me. Actually the last two days.
I'm getting ready to go out and put rounds down range, to experiment.
With a suppressed gun, these things make a much bigger difference.
Input wanted.
With blowback from a can you are going to get fouling no matter what the insides are coated of. Its got to go somewhere doesn't it?
These coatings and parts you mentioned might have some benefit in high round counts without being cleaned when using a can but only someone hell bent on not cleaning their equipment would even get that far. A soldiers basic load is 210 rounds. Civi's and LE carry even less than that on their body, and are certainly much less likely to ever need to fire more than 210 in any situation. If a civilian gets into a gunfight they need more than 210 rounds something is seriously wrong, and a one in a billion type event.
BCM has had test guns go well over 10k rounds without being cleaned. I just ran my KAC SR15 to about 5k without cleaning over a 2 month period. Lots of other people on here have done similar things.
But for a duty or SD/HD gun it should be kept clean, and serviced regularly. That negates any need for some high dollar parts just so you can push a round count without cleaning as far as you can before you start encountering problems. If that is your end goal then go have fun burning up that ammo but its certainly not needed on a duty gun (mil, civi SD/HD, or LEO).
For someone like the OP who is just using the gun recreationally they don't need to do squat but just go shoot, and try to improve what they can. If he was looking at doing some classes, and getting more into the tactics side of things then Id suggest a better BCG like BCM, LMT, Colt, etc. and to keep some spare parts on hand in case something breaks on him.
Magic_Salad0892
05-12-10, 11:04
The coatings are for ''dry lubricity''.
I'm aware that the debris has to go somewhere.
And yes I know that the BCMs will run fine, but as the gun gets older, and total round count gets higher. Like with my guns. Reliability will change.
Also in SHTF: Sometimes you just CAN'T clean your gun.
Also a principle of I'd rather have it, and not need it, than need it, and not have it.
You've a very good point though, and why my modifications, are not for everybody.
They're for me, and people who run guns like I do.
Belmont31R
05-12-10, 11:36
The coatings are for ''dry lubricity''.
I'm aware that the debris has to go somewhere.
And yes I know that the BCMs will run fine, but as the gun gets older, and total round count gets higher. Like with my guns. Reliability will change.
Also in SHTF: Sometimes you just CAN'T clean your gun.
Also a principle of I'd rather have it, and not need it, than need it, and not have it.
You've a very good point though, and why my modifications, are not for everybody.
They're for me, and people who run guns like I do.
Wow. What type of scenario do you have in your head? Like I mentioned before Pat Rogers has had both BCM, and Colt guns go over 10k, and one over 20k without being cleaned.
Wow. I didn't know we had such a cat on here who a regular AR15 just isn't good enough.
So wheres your scientific type testing data that shows these parts are significantly better in a real world situation? Im not talking about your SHTF scenario you have conjured up where you are going to burn through so many rounds so quickly you burn all the lube off, and are so busy shooting you just can't relube the weapon?
You mentioned pistons in your original post in this thread. Wheres your data that shows they are significantly better than a DI USGI gun in a real world situation?
Or do you just think these things on some very limited self testing you did? Do you have a log sheet showing the differences in performance with a variety of data points to consider?
http://www.i-mockery.com/minimocks/thriller/25.gif
Littlelebowski
05-12-10, 13:25
Come on, man. What does that add?
http://www.i-mockery.com/minimocks/thriller/25.gif
It's a fairly good representation of how silly this thread is getting.
Littlelebowski
05-12-10, 13:32
It's a fairly good representation of how silly this thread is getting.
I hear folks offering experience from both sides of an argument. I don't think you adding Michael Jackson pictures helps anybody nor the discussion at hand.
I hear folks offering experience from both sides of an argument. I don't think you adding Michael Jackson pictures helps anybody nor the discussion at hand.
There is experience coming from only one side and a lot of non-sense from the other side :)
You can lead a horse to water... comes to mind
The coatings are for ''dry lubricity''.
Never saw the need for "dry lubricity" as I don't operate machinery dry. Wet lube does more than just lubricate; it cools, cushions, allows swiping motion of clearanced parts to remove foreign matter, and protects from corrosion. "dry lubricity" doesn't do all that.
I'm aware that the debris has to go somewhere.
And yes I know that the BCMs will run fine, but as the gun gets older, and total round count gets higher. Like with my guns. Reliability will change.
At which point you can simply replace parts in a DI gun.
Also in SHTF: Sometimes you just CAN'T clean your gun.
Bullshit. Simply bullshit. I'd suggest you peddle that crap on ARFCOM.
Also a principle of I'd rather have it, and not need it, than need it, and not have it.
You've a very good point though, and why my modifications, are not for everybody.
They're for me, and people who run guns like I do.
Oddly enough, I cannot add anything in derision to the stupidity of this comment then as currently written. Which is kind of an unusual thing for me.
yea i would just go to a training class but i dont know of any, does anyone know any east of the twin cities? and are the classes expensive?
also the whole reason i made this thread was to get the opinion of if it was even neccesary for me to be making mods. and i kinda agree more with not moding the crap outta it in an expensive way that makes me broke. cause i dont need alotta those things and i get really confused when i read all that stuff, ive taken apart my gun and cleaned it a few times simply to get to know how it works better and i still dont know what half of those parts are exactly, i have a general idea of what some of it is but yea, and my gun isnt really for combat or anything like that, rite now its just a hobby and maybe a hunting rifle later. rite now i just need alot more ammo cause i have like 35 rounds for it currently but i will get paid again next week and then i can buy some more. also a question... what are your preferences on different ammo types, and were can i buy NATO ammo/is it even worth buying it just for a bigger bang and more power :P
Magic_Salad0892
05-12-10, 19:54
Wow. What type of scenario do you have in your head? Like I mentioned before Pat Rogers has had both BCM, and Colt guns go over 10k, and one over 20k without being cleaned.
I don't have any real scenario in my head, just a set of modifications that work, and that I'm comfortable with. I'm comfortable with a stock gun, but after running guns for long periods of time without maintenance. I know what I can do to make them run in these conditions. Even if I don't need to ever do this, it's nice to know that I can.
Wow. I didn't know we had such a cat on here who a regular AR15 just isn't good enough.
A regular AR-15 will serve anybody fine, I just believe there are things you can do to make it even more reliable.
I was not being elitist. Please don't make it sound like I am.
So wheres your scientific type testing data that shows these parts are significantly better in a real world situation? Im not talking about your SHTF scenario you have conjured up where you are going to burn through so many rounds so quickly you burn all the lube off, and are so busy shooting you just can't relube the weapon?
The data I have to show that these parts are significantly better in a real world situation would be that they are quality parts that are proven on their own, and together have not failed me. You can find write ups, on professionals that have run heavy action spring, and buffer setups like I do, to great success. It's cheap insurance.
You mentioned pistons in your original post in this thread. Wheres your data that shows they are significantly better than a DI USGI gun in a real world situation?
There is no data you will find anywhere to show that they are better they are different. Both are equally capable, and it's a rule of give and take.
Which set of problems, and virtues are you comfortable with?
Or do you just think these things on some very limited self testing you did? Do you have a log sheet showing the differences in performance with a variety of data points to consider?
I'm working on a log actually. This will consist of mine, and other peoples opinions and findings with their own setups, as well as products that worked together, and ones that didn't. Etc.
Right now though, as a civilian that pays for his own parts and ammunition, the testing is based off of the findings of others, with my own modifications, and what it does for my platform.
If I offended anybody with that I do to my rifles, or what I recommend, I am sorry.
Input welcomed.
Magic_Salad0892
05-12-10, 20:01
Never saw the need for "dry lubricity" as I don't operate machinery dry. Wet lube does more than just lubricate; it cools, cushions, allows swiping motion of clearanced parts to remove foreign matter, and protects from corrosion. "dry lubricity" doesn't do all that.
First off: Dry lubricity does more than dry. After lubricant has burned off, this works very well.
Second: There are many people to confirm that it does in fact work, and only helps reliability.
At which point you can simply replace parts in a DI gun.
This is true, but I like knowing that the gun won't fail me, if I don't have the money for the parts, or whatever else could get in the way of me replacing them.
Murphy's law happens.
As for your other comments:
I never insulted anybody in this thread, and the only thing here that belongs on ARFCOM is insulting people, simply for how they modify their own gear.
Jay Cunningham
05-12-10, 20:06
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[QUOTE=Magic_Salad0892;653216]First off:but I like knowing that the gun won't fail me.QUOTE]
i can completely agree with u there in that, somtimes after so much use from the gun it is completely neccesary to change certain parts. and no harm done to me, i didnt feel offended by anybodys posts, i actually learned alot from all of this, in what different view points of what is good and in what ways. all of it was actually very helpful to me to learn more about ARs because like i said earlier, i am very new to all of them ive only had mine for about 4-5 months now. so thanks for all of ur input on this thread, any more tips or pointer are greatly apreciated. :)
Magic_Salad0892
05-13-10, 01:38
The most important advice you can be given is:
Train and shoot. Get proficient before you change a SINGLE thing.
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