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View Full Version : Pre range questions - dont shoot me



Truggy
05-05-10, 21:41
ok - thank you for all of you that have put up with my noob questions.
I am going to be taking my AR to the range for the first time and tonight I got it ready. Please let me know if I missed anything.
I did read the sticky on basic cleaning.

1. broke the gun down into the 3 major groups
2. removed the BCG and CH
3. Removed clip and firing pin
4. rotated and removed cam pin
5. pulled out bolt
6. took bolt apart
7. placed BC and Bolt with parts into the mineral and BF CLP solution.
8. Cleaned with a paint brush and removed to dry - also wiped them down to help dry as I have not found the nice tray setup as posted.
9. Used a 5.56 Hopps bore snake with some CLP before and a little after the copper brush section. Ran that through twice.
10. lubed all the points on the BC and Bolt with machine gunners lube.
** Noticed the gas rings move around in the spot very easily I assume when inserted into the BC the squeeze and tighten up... Do i have to worry about them being bent when inserting the bolt into the BC?
11.lubed the BC and CH.
12. placed a drop in the lower assembly as directed in the basic cleaning post.
13. placed the upper and lower together.
** noticed that the back of the upper where it meets the lower (edge) is showing bare alu.. is this an issue or common with a gun that was never fired yet? The ch I figured it would wear as it moves...at least i noticed that on mine from running the CH to work the lube.
14. Wiped the outside with BF CLP with a paint brush as light as possible (which I still am a bit heavy) and then wiped the best I could with a black tank. There are some parts that I may have a bit heavy on the CLP... is that an issue when it is in the case besides being oily when I handle it?

Please let me know if I missed anything... I hope I did everything that is needed.

Thanks again for all your help and sorry for the long post.

:)

Belmont31R
05-05-10, 21:54
First everyone has their own cleaning method, and use what works for you. Its good to get ideas from other people. I don't clean an AR the same way I did 2-3 years ago. There are a lot of methods that work, and as long as the gun runs the way you clean/lube it (and you are not damaging the gun) then nothing really else matters.



The main thing to get out of a new gun is the thick preservative grease that comes with many new firearms. The way you did it should work fine. I am a big fan of brake cleaner, and it will break down those thick greases pretty effortlessly.


I use an oily rag to wipe down everything I can, and then wipe the exterior with a dry lint free cloth. I dont think you need a paint brush to apply lube.

Where I apply actual oil is one drop down the gas key on the BCG, a couple drops down the cam pin hole, and one drop on the exposed part of the bolt when the BCG is assembled. I also put a drop or two on the top of the charging handle before inserting it into the upper.



The MOST IMPORTANT thing to keep an AR running is lube. They can go a long time without cleaning but they will seize up if run dry. SLIP EWL is the best lube Ive used out of many. CLP is a good general purpose lube but its not the best lube for keeping an AR running during firing.


Last thing don't worry about the gas rings. You wont bend them.

OTO27
05-05-10, 21:58
I think you are good to go. As far as the gas ring question, Dont worry about it. In the Marine Corps I was tought to carefully seperate the three rings, one at the 12 o clock, another at the 4, and 8. This creates a better seal. if you lign all three of them they wont create as much of a tight fit/seal. I dont consider my self an expert on the AR platform, but this is just what I was tought in the Corps.

Belmont31R
05-05-10, 22:05
I think you are good to go. As far as the gas ring question, Dont worry about it. In the Marine Corps I was tought to carefully seperate the three rings, one at the 12 o clock, another at the 4, and 8. This creates a better seal. if you lign all three of them they wont create as much of a tight fit/seal. I dont consider my self an expert on the AR platform, but this is just what I was tought in the Corps.




Gas ring alignment has no bearing on the gun running or not.



I was in the Army for 6 years, and there are a lot of myths out there. The way the military does things in regards to firearms is rarely "smart" or based on any type of reality.

thopkins22
05-05-10, 22:09
In fact a carbine will run with only one gas ring.

Truggy
05-05-10, 22:12
in regards to CLP... I figured I would use CLP on the outside and for the bore... use Machine gunners lube for the moving parts.

In regards to the exposed alu on the edge of the upper back when it meets the lower H buffer area should not be an issue. Would it be wise to cover it to prevent the finish from coming off even further...

So I figured I would wipe it down from any clp or lube that may have run out over night.

Thanks again for the patience and help.

thopkins22
05-05-10, 22:20
in regards to CLP... I figured I would use CLP on the outside and for the bore... use Machine gunners lube for the moving parts. That's fine, but there's no sense getting too wrapped up in what lube is where...just make sure the operating parts are wet.


In regards to the exposed alu on the edge of the upper back when it meets the lower H buffer area should not be an issue. Would it be wise to cover it to prevent the finish from coming off even further...No it wouldn't be wise. It would be lame. So incredibly lame. Don't stop your weapon from breaking in, embrace it.

Truggy
05-05-10, 22:41
LOL.... Well tomorrow is the start of a good relationship...

So as long as the lube and clp do not mix. I cant wait to shoot at the range tomorrow.

Are there any cloths that do not leave lint?

thanks

Jay Cunningham
05-05-10, 22:49
I understand that you are excited, but just take the gun out and shoot it.

P2000
05-05-10, 23:13
Don't forget eye and ear protection.

OTO27
05-05-10, 23:17
Gas ring alignment has no bearing on the gun running or not.



I was in the Army for 6 years, and there are a lot of myths out there. The way the military does things in regards to firearms is rarely "smart" or based on any type of reality.
I agree, its probably more myth than known fact. I have actually forgoten to do this "ritual" of stagering the rings and the gun ran just fine.

shootist~
05-05-10, 23:23
9. Used a 5.56 Hopps bore snake with some CLP before and a little after the copper brush section. Ran that through twice.

Don't shoot the gun with the bore wet with oil. This is a safety thing - an excessive amount of oil in the bore can act like a barrel obstruction.

bkb0000
05-05-10, 23:44
Don't shoot the gun with the bore wet with oil. This is a safety thing - an excessive amount of oil in the bore can act like a barrel obstruction.

since the barrel is bone dry after the first shot (technically before the first shot, since blast precedes the projectile in the bore), there's no point ever loobing the bore, unless its for storage. otherwise it just collects dirt and dust and shit.

Paraclete comes
05-06-10, 01:00
Yeah sounds like you did a fine job, have a great shoot. I dont use CLP anymore but now run EEZOX and Hoppes

RetreatHell
05-06-10, 04:56
Also note that with all the CLP you put all over the gun, plus the fact that it's a new gun anyways and they come coated with CLP (well, depending on how/where you bought it), that after you shoot a handful of rounds your barrel will most likely start smoking... that's completely fine, it's just the CLP burning off as the barrel heats up.

Oh yeah, don't worry about marring or scratches and shit like that, it's a non-issue and gives great character to the gun! And for the love of God, do NOT treat this new AR15 of yours like you would your wife... abuse her like you would a Tijuana whore and shoot the shit out of that bitch! And just when you think she's has enough, tell her to shut the **** up and then shoot her some more!;)

Lastly and on a much more serious note, make sure you memorize and always follow the 4 basic firearm safety rules (whether you're all alone or at a busy gun range) at all times like people's lives depend on it... because they do.

Have fun tomorrow and be safe:)

GermanSynergy
05-06-10, 05:12
OP,
Looks like you've pretty much got it covered. Be safe and let us know how it shoots!:cool:

Quib
05-06-10, 05:34
Sounds like you’re off to a good start. A new weapon should be disassembled, cleaned, inspected, lubed, reassembled and function checked before that first range session.

Looks like you're following some of my cleaning/maintenance routines. The one point I would like to comment on regarding your routine above, is lubing of the exterior of the weapon. There’s no reason to go so heavy that the surface of the weapon gleans from oil or is slippery to the touch. This is completely unnecessary and is actually counterproductive to maintenance and cleaning. Any dust or dirt the weapon comes in contact with will stick even more.

I personally save the CLP and paint brush routine for cleaning afterwards, not prior to shooting. And the idea behind the CLP and paint brush is not so much to lube the exterior of the weapon, as it is to make cleaning of dust or dirt in hard to reach areas just a bit easier. I can’t emphasize enough, just how little CLP I actually place on the bristles of the brush. The “parked” steel areas I like to hit with the CLP/paintbrush, then wipe down with a black t-shirt. The application of CLP to steel parts helps prevent the formation of surface corrosion.

The aluminum exterior of the AR15 is pretty much maintenance free. The anodized finishes of the aluminum parts need very little attention.

Scratches happen to any weapon that gets used. Don’t worry about the scratches, one way or another they will eventually occur. I like to say, “There’s a difference between USE and ABUSE.” Don’t abuse the weapon, but don’t be afraid to put it to use either.

Learn it. Use it. Lube it. Clean it. Maintain it. And it will provide you with decades of faithful service.

Truggy
05-06-10, 07:27
Thanks again...
In regards to the oil, I lot of it gets absorbed in the case DD sent with the rifle. The foam kind. I do need to look for a better solution as I do not have a safe and there maybe times when the rifle will be just "sitting" there. My plan is to get to the range at least once a week. Coming from a shotgun for bird shooting to a more precise weapon is a slight adjustment.

Also in regards to the barrel and oil. I thought you should have a very light coating? The nice thing about the snake is that it absorbs and excess at the end half does it not? I did not want to use rods and figured this would be better... was I wrong?

Quib
05-06-10, 09:12
Also in regards to the barrel and oil. I thought you should have a very light coating? The nice thing about the snake is that it absorbs and excess at the end half does it not? I did not want to use rods and figured this would be better... was I wrong?

Personally, I like to run a dampened CLP patch down the bore for storage. Before firing, I’ll run a few dry patches down the bore to dry it out.

Can’t comment on the performance of the Bore Snake, I use a traditional rod and jag.

Pathfinder Ops
05-06-10, 11:24
I understand that you are excited, but just take the gun out and shoot it.

I friggin love this statement!!!!

Just freakin shoot it already.

:cool: