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SpookyPistolero
06-06-10, 12:30
Howdy folks-

Just got my hands on a CTAC for my G19. I've used one for me 1911 for many years and never had a problem with the design. This new one is a little different, at least in feel. Specifically, the 'sweat guard' towards the top has a flare that really eats into my side when sitting for more than a few minutes.

So I'm considering using some Devcon 2-ton epoxy to apply a piece of thick leather to the back, maybe just slightly larger than the outer edges of the sheath itself (a good bit smaller than the minotaur outlines for example). Just hoping this might soften the edges, without adding too much thickness.

Anyone ever done something like this? Regretted it, loved it?

tailrotor
06-06-10, 15:23
The ctac's sweat-shield for my MP9c dug into my side also, but I took a little different approach than you seem to want to take. I kept cutting down the sweat-shield with a dremel until I had the profile I wanted. I glued some thin, scrap leather to the back with waterproof glue and added moleskin to the back of the leather and kydex struts. Works pretty well now.

[IMG]http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/296/ctac.jpg (http://img339.imageshack.us/i/ctac.jpg/)

SpookyPistolero
06-06-10, 15:45
Thanks for the input! Couple of questions: what weight leather did you use, and did it add noticeable thickness overall when carrying? And after you cut down the sweat guard, did the top of the slide dig into you at all?

tailrotor
06-06-10, 16:24
I'm not sure of the weight...it's 1/16" inch thick and I don't notice any increased thickness. The sweat-guard originally would dig into my side, especially when I was sitting. Now it doesn't.

The key is to only remove a small amount of kydex, try the holster on with the gun in and out of the holster, then rinse and repeat if necessary. I also removed some leather from the struts and smoothed out some of the kydex edges that were sticking in me.

Since body types are different, you may be able to get away with removing less kydex than I did. I think, for me, the modified holster is about as comfortable as a piece of plastic with a gun in it can be.

Pariah
06-06-10, 16:47
Leather behind Kydek is really nice to have. Rich at Custom Carry Concepts offers two thicknesses on the back of his holsters, and I have leather on my Looper and Shaggy.

It's more comfortable, both in that it removes sharp edges, and in that it can act as a heat shield between you and the hot gun if it's thick enough. I got the thick stuff on my holster, and I'm glad I did. Put the gun back in the holster after a long drill at a Magpul class and it felt fine. Then I bent over to pick up magazines and I could feel the heat radiating from the bottom of the holster. Without the heat shield it would have been a lot less comfortable.

It also makes it possible to wear without an undershirt. I really hate wearing multiple layers, and I can wear Kydek AIWB holsters with leather against my skin with no problems.

Another thing that it does is it helps hold the gun in place. The leather grips cloth better than bare Kydek. Combined with a very slight increase in thickness, it helps keep things from moving around.

I think you should definitely experiment with it, see if you like it. I have no regrets using leather backing, and I prefer it to bare Kydek.

luvmy40
06-06-10, 17:14
A quality contact adhesive works best for laminating leather to the Kydex. I use 3M 90 spray adhesive but any contact adhesive will work. You might want to apply a light coat (a heavy first coat can soak into the leather and not cure normally)to the leather and allow it dry completely. Then apply per the MFG instructions.

SpookyPistolero
06-06-10, 17:27
Thanks for the input guys, I think I'll give it a try. I've got some good scraps from sheath making that should do nicely. And as suggested, I think I'll go with one of the contact adhesives versus the highly permanent epoxy.

I may just try keeping the holster as is with leather, then if that's not comfortable I'll start removing the top of the sweat guard.

luvmy40
06-06-10, 19:02
FYI if you go with a holster weight leather, be sure to soften it up by working with your hands. IE twist and roll... It makes it much easier to "bone" to the contours of the holster.

FromMyColdDeadHand
06-07-10, 00:45
Any good sources for leather and mole skin?

luvmy40
06-07-10, 07:40
There are several leather suppliers to be found online. Tandy Leather being the most well known if not the largest. All sell scrap bags by the pound as do most of the craft supply stores(Pat Cattans, Hobby Lobby, Michaels, etc.). The upholstery/garment weight scraps are usually large enough to back a holster and are a good thickness for a comfort backing without adding any appreciable thickness to the holster.
Science Surplus (sciplus.com) sells half belly cut offs for around $10. The rough side is very rough but they are perfect for an insulation/heat shield as well as many other small projects. They are vegetable tanned and sometimes fairly moist. They may need to be set out to dry for a while before laminating. They also come in brown or black randomly. I have gone through 20 or so and have received 3 brown bellies to date.

tailrotor
06-07-10, 08:00
Any good sources for leather and mole skin?

As for the leather, luvmy40 pretty much covered it. I used the scraps from 3"X6" leather strips that my wife bought at a local craft store. The moleskin can be purchased at any drugstore.

rat31465
06-07-10, 08:14
Look for Moleskin in the Foot Care Sections of most Pharmacies, including Wal-Mart and K-Mart... Its also available in most stores that sell quality Hiking Boots. I have found it available with and without padding and self adhesive backings.

TEXAS_GLOCKER
06-07-10, 13:54
I just used mole skin for the whole thing and trimmed down the sweat gaurd and works great for me, and the mole skin is easier to work with. :D

JSantoro
06-07-10, 19:01
Any good sources for leather and mole skin?

If you're lucky enough to live anywhere near someplace that sells/repairs horse tack, you can get some otherwise-high-quality leather scraps that they won't use because of blemishes. Cheap compared to someplace that sells leather, free if you're lucky.

Comp-Tac sells moleskin: http://www.comp-tac.com/product_info.php?products_id=104&osCsid=4cbc4

I put that on the back of my Comp-Tac Infidel using Gorilla Glue because there's no way in hell the adhesive on the 'skin would last. It helped a lot in terms of padding/heat shield/friction...

...but since my Minotaur arrived yesterday, it's sort of a moot point, now.

SpookyPistolero
06-07-10, 20:26
...but since my Minotaur arrived yesterday, it's sort of a moot point, now.

What are your thoughts on the CTAC vs. Minotaur, having used both?

JSantoro
06-07-10, 21:57
Haven't the foggiest idea, since I have an Infidel, not a CTAC, and only just got the Minotaur yesterday.

The former wouldn't make a good basis for comparison since they mount diferently (I used the leather belt loops), and the latter would make for a premature comparison (vs. a holster owned, carried and practiced with for over a year) because I'm barely into double-digit hours of ownership.

That said, initial impressions of ther Monotaur and it's leather backing: very, very favorable. I'll be using it in a LAV class this weekend

SpookyPistolero
06-07-10, 22:04
Ah my apologies, I totally misread something. Thank you for your thoughts on the minotaur though, I still may pick up one of those.

TEXAS_GLOCKER
06-08-10, 06:48
I have both the mtac and ctac and the mtac is alot more comfy.