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Armati
05-25-07, 10:24
Ok, I think I am ready to jump into a build. I have searched the forums and I still have a few questions.

I have spent a few years as a unit armorer and I can read a 23&P manual as well as the next guy.

Here is where I am at:

My bbl is a gun show special. It appears to be a fo' real USGI M4A1 replacement bbl assy - the kind with a heavy contour and the two flat spots midway down the bbl. Barrel extension and front sight in place. No gas tube.

What gas tube should I use? A milspec? What about a pigtail gas tube? Is it worth the cost or will the milspec gas port on the bbl do the trick?

I don't think I want to do an SBR. This will be a GP rifle and I will travel with it a lot. What flash hider to use? I was looking at the Phantom flash hider/comp. The one with no bottom hole. Will that be long enough reach 16"? How should I attach it? If I pin it, can I stake the pin hole or must it be welded. Is there a Loctite compound that I can use? If it has to be welded I will be sending it out.

Upper receiver and bolt with be CMT already assembled from Bravo Company. I think this will avoid any issues with staking the carrier key.

I have never installed a bbl before. I can get all the right tools I just have never done it. Should I send this out or is it pretty simple?

The lower will most likely be a Bushmaster. The only reason is that my local FFL has them right now and the price is right. I really like the Noveske but I don't really want wait for it. I just want to go in and buy it. Other recommendations?

I already have an Ace SOCOM M4 stock. The installation really seems like a snap (no issues with staking a castle nut). I know a guy who has one installed and I really like it. The only thing that gives me pause it that directions recommend the use of teflon pipe tape on the threads....? Any thoughts?

Rear BUIS is the ARMS 40L. Rail is the ARMS 50C. I already have them. Anything I should know about these?

Delta ring. I guess I should install it. Any recommendations.

Lower parts will include a MagPul grip and trigger guard. What about the FCG and the other lower pins and springs? What vendor. I am fine with USGI (or equivalent semi parts). I have honestly never seen anything go wrong with the USGI parts.

Anything else I should know? Thanks.

Snake RAH
05-25-07, 11:00
Use a standard carbine length gas tube.

Get a Phantom SC1 (5 slots, solid bottom, not pointy on the end), and have Adco Firearms permanently attach it to the barrel. It will need to be drilled, pinned and welded over (blind pin) to be considered non-SBR.

CMT upper will be fine, just get one with the feed ramps.

Bushmaster is ok. Since you're talking about stripped, just about any, RRA, Bushmaster, Eagle, Noveske, Stag, etc. will be ok. Stag lower parts kit is my first choice for local availability, but like Defensive Edge's LPKs better. RRA is ok, but the triggers aren't always the best out of the box. DPMS is ok for local availability.

fivepointoh
05-25-07, 12:17
Sounds like you have a SOCOM barrel if I'm reading your description right.


Does it look like this? (granted yours probably isn't silver and doesn't have a lo pro gas block)

http://razgrizo.googlepages.com/coltssm4barrel.JPG

C4IGrant
05-25-07, 12:35
Most of the guys have covered everything. If you want a Noveske stripped lower, or one with CMT lower parts in stalled and a MIAD, I them in stock.


C4

Armati
05-26-07, 10:18
Thanks for the input guys.

fivepointoh -

As near as I can tell it is a 'SOCOM' M4A1 replacement bbl. I don't know if this is a SOCOM specific part. The 23&P TM simply lists it as an authorized replacement for the original GI contour.

BTW, anybody know just what that flat spot is for? I have my TM at work right now.

Snake RAH -

Does it have to be the SC1? I was kind of partial to the pointy model. Is there some danger that the bbl could be measured from the lowest point the muzzle?

Grant-

I don't see the Noveske lowers on your site. I will assume that your CMT lower parts kit (#LPK $66 USD) is a semi kit.

I have been phasing this build in to save money. I buy about $100-200 in parts every month. I think this is a great way to go.

BTW, I did not know that an AR did not 'need' to be headspaced with new parts. I will still see my bud at the armament shop to check the headspace - just in case.

Snake RAH
05-29-07, 12:00
It doesn't have to be the 5C1. I use the 5C1 on barrels that I can put a bayonet on, and the 5C2 on barrels that I can't put a bayonet on (like a dissapator style). It's just user preference.