View Full Version : Gunzilla Cleaner
Does anyone have any experince with that Gunzilla CLP? I have always used Hoppe's but from what I have read on their site and one other site Gunzilla is the best cleaer possible. But I dont know anyone who has used it and I was recently told never to use a Cleaner and Lubricant mix.
just a scout
06-06-10, 19:58
It's what I've been using on my BCM Middy and G19. No problems, works great. Once it soaks in, feels like a teflon frying pan after a few days.
firecop019
06-06-10, 20:59
Yeah, the stuff rocks! It's an all in one solvent/oil, once you get a few applications of it on your firearm the dirt and grime pretty much wipes right off. And it slowly soaks into the pores and prevents rust really well. Now this is only hearsay, but the county's SRT guys say that dirt doesn't cling to it either like other oils. I've been using it excusively on my patrol rifle since I bought and it's been great.
Doesn't stink either, I know some people get a hard-on at the smell of Hoppe's #9 but it gives me a headache so this stuff was a godsend. It's not odorless, it has it's own smell but it's not bad.
We are running it in our department M&P handguns as well, and most of our off duty stuff. One of my co-workers has a LCP and this stuff made the slide run so much smoother. Didn't make it shoot any softer though, that's a little stinger with gold dots.
Gunzilla is a great cleaner, non toxic and doesn't stink up the house. My experience with it as a lube I find it lacking. Weaponshield or Slip 2k blow it away in the lube department. :D
Does not hurt to give it a try.
Right now i have
KG1, KG2, KG4, WeaponShield CLP.
when i clean my pistol with WS, i could hear squeaky noise from barrel as well what they said on Gunzilla review too :D
would it be ok to put oil on after cleaning with GUNZILLA or would that ruin it effect?
Gunzilla is a great cleaner, non toxic and doesn't stink up the house. My experience with it as a lube I find it lacking. Weaponshield or Slip 2k blow it away in the lube department. :D
I found this to be the case.
Also, and this may be me mixing different lubes, last time I used it the inside of my bolt carrier was gummy. I used Gunzilla and a petroleum based lube because my little squirt bottle of Gunzill ran out.
In my experience, I will not mix gunzilla and petro based CLP from now on.
Where is a good place to source this stuff?
Direct from the mfgr,
http://www.topduckproducts.com/
firecop019
06-07-10, 14:29
I get it from my local cop shop CMP Distributors (https://www.cmpdist.com/store/public/search.php?mode=search&page=1&keep_https=yes)
I found this to be the case.
Also, and this may be me mixing different lubes, last time I used it the inside of my bolt carrier was gummy. I used Gunzilla and a petroleum based lube because my little squirt bottle of Gunzill ran out.
In my experience, I will not mix gunzilla and petro based CLP from now on.
Thats what Im worried about see ive been using Hoppes #9 and Hoppes Eite oil, would it be ok to just go stright to the GUNZILLA or is there a process I need to take to go from one to the other?
Having been 'round the block with several expensive gun oils, I've settled on automatic transmission fluid for cleaning all of my firearms.
http://www.grandpappy.info/itips.htm
Executive summary of the web page:
[Use] Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) as a cleaner and light lubricant. ATF performs admirably as a carbon remover, and protects steel surfaces excellently ("Have you ever seen a transmission that's rusty inside?").
Twenty weight engine oil serves in an environment that is far more strenuous than normally found in small arms so it is normally quite successful. The Army authorities recommend synthetic oils such as Mobil 1. (In fact, one noted authority has used Mobil 1 as his personal firearm lubricant for over two decades.)
Not believing everything I read on the Internet, I put the above info to the test on my own hardware and haven't looked back.
I'm not broke and I'm not a tightwad but firearms run perfectly well on common automative products and I see no reason to purchase the designer gun goo.
"But it's not DESIGNED for that" you might say...
All right, go ahead and pay a buck per ounce for stuff that gives you no additional benefits.:D
firecop019
06-07-10, 19:33
When I went through the S&W M&P Armorers course the instructor said he had switched totally over to synthetic motor oil as a gun lubricant.
I like Gunzilla as a cleaner too. Actually i find it's good on cleaning up alot of other things than just firearms.
Thats what Im worried about see ive been using Hoppes #9 and Hoppes Eite oil, would it be ok to just go stright to the GUNZILLA or is there a process I need to take to go from one to the other?
I went straight to Gunzilla. And I am not saying that the mixing of the two agents caused the gumminess. But I am saying that I am going to avoid mixing petro based products and Gunzilla.
John Hearne
06-09-10, 21:28
We've been using Gunzilla for over a year at work. We liked it so much that we bought enough for our parts cleaner. Gunzilla has an unusual property. As you use it more and more, it treats the metal and makes each subsequent cleaning easier. It will remove paint, like the red paint of Remington 870 safeties.
I've been using Gunzilla with very good effect on all of my work firearms. Our SRT has switched to it and they run it on their SIG automatics without problem.
The Michigan State Police has switched over to it also. It's made in Michigan by the way.
I would recommend it to anyone who asked about it.
Fog
I have no experience with using ATF as a gun cleaner.
I have some experience with spilling ATF on bits made of plastic and rubber and paint. (The kind of things cars are made of.)
I would be careful when it comes to putting ATF on anything that's not metal, and even some metals.
Having been 'round the block with several expensive gun oils, I've settled on automatic transmission fluid for cleaning all of my firearms.
http://www.grandpappy.info/itips.htm
Executive summary of the web page:
[Use] Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) as a cleaner and light lubricant. ATF performs admirably as a carbon remover, and protects steel surfaces excellently ("Have you ever seen a transmission that's rusty inside?").
Twenty weight engine oil serves in an environment that is far more strenuous than normally found in small arms so it is normally quite successful. The Army authorities recommend synthetic oils such as Mobil 1. (In fact, one noted authority has used Mobil 1 as his personal firearm lubricant for over two decades.)
Not believing everything I read on the Internet, I put the above info to the test on my own hardware and haven't looked back.
I'm not broke and I'm not a tightwad but firearms run perfectly well on common automative products and I see no reason to purchase the designer gun goo.
"But it's not DESIGNED for that" you might say...
All right, go ahead and pay a buck per ounce for stuff that gives you no additional benefits.:D
Littlelebowski
06-10-10, 13:34
Non chlorinated brake cleaner. Cheap. Easy. Efficient. Use outdoors.
Displaced Texan
06-10-10, 15:32
I just started using Gunzilla a couple of months ago. I like it's cleaning ability, and that parts treated with it seem easier to clean. So far, I'm happy with it.
I would also recommend it to anyone who asked.
I don't know about using ATF on gun parts, as was said before, I'd be very careful about getting it on some finishes, and plastic parts.
Jeff
I'm just a hardheaded skeptic, raised on Hoppe's #9. Some years back I brewed up some "Ed's Red". I'm now on my third gallon of the stuff and it does the job nicely, at a fraction of the price.
There are days when I think the old snake oil magic elixirs were replaced by the "does everything" gun cleaner/lube/magic stuff products being pushed all over the place.
The synthetic oils might be worth a try. Anything good enough for a high performance engine should keep an AR going, seems to me.
Non-chlorinated brake cleaner IS a fast, handy way to blow off most of the residue after shooting. A lot of guys swear by it. I tried it and found the stuff to be too harsh for indoor use.
Synthetic ATF has not damaged anything I've used it on, nor any brushes or swabs. I've spilled it on wood, wiped it off, no damage. No damage to plastic/rubber grips. If it gets on clothes, it comes off in the wash. It's not unpleasant to work with. Linen patches that are wet with it smell like a combo of wet dog and metal machine shop, nice huh. It is not an odor that fills a room, no one notices a smell. You have to get it close to your nose to smell anything.
It's effective at cleaning carbon/powder residue, has good light lube qualities, and have you ever seen rust inside a transmission?
The synthetic oils might be worth a try. Anything good enough for a high performance engine should keep an AR going, seems to me.
Exactly.
I started using Mobile 1 recently but went a bit further and added some Lucas Oil Stabilizer in the mix. The Lucas stuff silences my lifters so I add it with every oil change. Lucas is the stuff you find at the counter of Advanced Auto on display with the 2 white plastic gears you can turn with the hand crank. Since I started using the blend it has worked better than any other lubricant I have found out there. I can apply it and it doesn't evaporate and it's on there still after a range session. I'll have to try some ATF for cleaning. I haven't been particularly impressed with the gun cleaners out there. Any recommendations for ATF brands? Gunzilla sounds pretty good but if ATF does the same, I can buy it cheaper and locally.
As a side note I went with Mobile 15W50 and it's perfect at room temp and shooting conditions, but I put a batch in the freezer and it's a bit think for winter use. From my research the #W is resistance to thickening in cold. The lower the number the less thick it gets when cold. The second number -# is resistance to thinning under heat. The higher the number the less thinning under heat. I'm going to see if I can find some 5W50 and do some tests on it. I'm thinking it may be about perfect as a gun lube.
Got some on the way to try out.
More to follow.
Not to disparage some of the designer gun goo, because admittedly they can work very nicely. Some are even less toxic or non toxic and pleasant to work with. I continue to use ATF w/ Dexron and Mobil 1. All guns continue to work great.
firecop019
10-26-10, 01:25
When I went through the S&W M&P Armorer class the instructor was using the Mobil 1 synthetic. He used the same logic, I forget how hot he said an engine gets, but there's no way you are going to get your gun hot enough to burn through that. And you get a gallon for what? $10
But I'll tell ya what that gunzilla does a nice job. The last time we qualified with the shotguns (we only use slugs) the lead and gunk essentially bonded to the barrel because we were running them so hot. We hit the barrels with the gunzilla and let it sit for a bit. We got chunks out of the barrel.
Myself, I only switched to it after hearing the instructor tell how one of the state troops died presumably after many, many years of exposure to the benzos in Hoppe's. He was the armorer and apparently they had a tub of it and they just soaked the gun parts in the stuff, and only sissies wear gloves so he was elbow deep in it a lot.
It's a good cleaner, just be careful on certain types of finishes, I used it on my muzzleloader and it ate through the camo finish on the forearm where it meets the barrel. It also removed the red paint from under the safety lever on my Sig Mosquito. I would be careful around any color filled areas on you're firearms just in case. Just my .02 cents!!!
Here is another thread on Gunzilla from earlier in the year.
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=46976
Heavy Metal
10-29-10, 20:22
When I went through the S&W M&P Armorer class the instructor was using the Mobil 1 synthetic. He used the same logic, I forget how hot he said an engine gets, but there's no way you are going to get your gun hot enough to burn through that. And you get a gallon for what? $10
But I'll tell ya what that gunzilla does a nice job. The last time we qualified with the shotguns (we only use slugs) the lead and gunk essentially bonded to the barrel because we were running them so hot. We hit the barrels with the gunzilla and let it sit for a bit. We got chunks out of the barrel.
Myself, I only switched to it after hearing the instructor tell how one of the state troops died presumably after many, many years of exposure to the benzos in Hoppe's. He was the armorer and apparently they had a tub of it and they just soaked the gun parts in the stuff, and only sissies wear gloves so he was elbow deep in it a lot.
They took the Benzene out of Hoppes over 20 years ago.
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