QuietShootr
06-04-07, 14:57
I finally got out to wring out my Burwell-modified M&P .45 yesterday (Had to reload some .45 before I could shoot, and the Dillon was giving me fits due to operator headspace and timing issues) and I have to say I'm verrrry impressed. I wound up with about 400 rounds before I finally quit wrestling with the recalcitrant thing and went down to the range.
My load is a 200gr LSWC at 950fps driven by Win 231. The M&P happily digested it with only one issue - I had three failures to fire that looked something like light primer strikes. I put approximately 100 factory rounds through it and did not experience this with them. I never have FTFs with my 1911s, so I performed the pencil test using a full length pencil on the M&P, and found that the striker blow moves the pencil about two inches up before it falls back in the barrel. In my 1911s, the pencil test will normally result in a pencil mark on the ceiling.
Accuracy is outstanding. I won't bore you with numbers, but suffice it to say that I can hit just as well with the M&P as with any of my custom 1911s. I shot some paper for accuracy and to confirm the Trijicons' zero, then did some drills on Pepper Poppers, including speed and tac reloads, that were entirely satisfactory. There was little if any POI change out to 25 between my loads, ball, Hornady TAP 200gr +P, Federal 230gr HST +P, and Winchester Ranger 230gr standard pressure. One thing I noted was that the HST, a very hot load, was not at all unpleasant to shoot out of the M&P, something that cannot be said of my 40+ounce custom Kimber Warrior. In addition, the Kimber experiences intermittent premature slide lock with HSTs, (it is stone reliable with standard pressure loads) and the M&P gobbled them up like a fat kid eating cake.
The only area in which my 1911s are clearly superior (at least at this point) is in split times. I didn't have the timer out yesterday, and I'm certain my time will improve with practice, but hammers are perceptibly slower due to my not being accustomed to the reset yet. Long-range practical accuracy was excellent as well - I had no trouble knocking over Poppers at 75 at speed, from the holster.
My high thumb grip works better on the M&P than on the 1911 - my left hand thumb rests on the frame nicely between the slide stop and the takedown lever, where it is impossible to create an early lock-open. The thumb safety, modded by Mr. Burwell, has a very positive snap off and on, and it is shaped somewhat like a Brown Tactical 1911 safety, my safety of choice.
I used a Galco Jak Slide for a Glock 21, and it worked just fine. I will probably order an El Paso Saddlery #88 for it, eventually.
Takedown and cleaning: I didn't bring my manual with me, but depressing the sear release lever is unnecessary. Retract the slide to the notch where you can open the takedown lever, close the slide, and squeeze and hold the trigger. The slide will come right off.
A fairly thorough cleaning took less than 10 minutes. To reassemble, mount the slide on the grooves, and HOLDING the takedown lever in place, pull the slide back to the disassembly notch. Rotate back to the service position, and function check. You're done.
I like it. I could easily see it leaving the house with me a LOT. Offers combat accuracy+, it appears that it should be very durable and resistant to environmental issues, the price is right, and it's very pleasant to shoot. It's simple to strip and clean, and does not appear to be ammunition sensitive, and easily handles +P. The controls are in the right places, and very well shaped. Even with 11 rounds on board, it's lighter than my alloy 5" Springfield. It has conventional rifling, so it is perfectly OK to shoot lead through it without buying a replacement barrel a'la Glock or HK. All that, and it's American made to boot.
Cons: The magazines are expensive, and IMO should have a black oxide metal floorplate like the black Wilson mags. They're going to take a beating on the range. I know that would increase weight, but still. Also, the weld seam on the magazine looks a little hinky to me. The light primer strike may be an issue.
My load is a 200gr LSWC at 950fps driven by Win 231. The M&P happily digested it with only one issue - I had three failures to fire that looked something like light primer strikes. I put approximately 100 factory rounds through it and did not experience this with them. I never have FTFs with my 1911s, so I performed the pencil test using a full length pencil on the M&P, and found that the striker blow moves the pencil about two inches up before it falls back in the barrel. In my 1911s, the pencil test will normally result in a pencil mark on the ceiling.
Accuracy is outstanding. I won't bore you with numbers, but suffice it to say that I can hit just as well with the M&P as with any of my custom 1911s. I shot some paper for accuracy and to confirm the Trijicons' zero, then did some drills on Pepper Poppers, including speed and tac reloads, that were entirely satisfactory. There was little if any POI change out to 25 between my loads, ball, Hornady TAP 200gr +P, Federal 230gr HST +P, and Winchester Ranger 230gr standard pressure. One thing I noted was that the HST, a very hot load, was not at all unpleasant to shoot out of the M&P, something that cannot be said of my 40+ounce custom Kimber Warrior. In addition, the Kimber experiences intermittent premature slide lock with HSTs, (it is stone reliable with standard pressure loads) and the M&P gobbled them up like a fat kid eating cake.
The only area in which my 1911s are clearly superior (at least at this point) is in split times. I didn't have the timer out yesterday, and I'm certain my time will improve with practice, but hammers are perceptibly slower due to my not being accustomed to the reset yet. Long-range practical accuracy was excellent as well - I had no trouble knocking over Poppers at 75 at speed, from the holster.
My high thumb grip works better on the M&P than on the 1911 - my left hand thumb rests on the frame nicely between the slide stop and the takedown lever, where it is impossible to create an early lock-open. The thumb safety, modded by Mr. Burwell, has a very positive snap off and on, and it is shaped somewhat like a Brown Tactical 1911 safety, my safety of choice.
I used a Galco Jak Slide for a Glock 21, and it worked just fine. I will probably order an El Paso Saddlery #88 for it, eventually.
Takedown and cleaning: I didn't bring my manual with me, but depressing the sear release lever is unnecessary. Retract the slide to the notch where you can open the takedown lever, close the slide, and squeeze and hold the trigger. The slide will come right off.
A fairly thorough cleaning took less than 10 minutes. To reassemble, mount the slide on the grooves, and HOLDING the takedown lever in place, pull the slide back to the disassembly notch. Rotate back to the service position, and function check. You're done.
I like it. I could easily see it leaving the house with me a LOT. Offers combat accuracy+, it appears that it should be very durable and resistant to environmental issues, the price is right, and it's very pleasant to shoot. It's simple to strip and clean, and does not appear to be ammunition sensitive, and easily handles +P. The controls are in the right places, and very well shaped. Even with 11 rounds on board, it's lighter than my alloy 5" Springfield. It has conventional rifling, so it is perfectly OK to shoot lead through it without buying a replacement barrel a'la Glock or HK. All that, and it's American made to boot.
Cons: The magazines are expensive, and IMO should have a black oxide metal floorplate like the black Wilson mags. They're going to take a beating on the range. I know that would increase weight, but still. Also, the weld seam on the magazine looks a little hinky to me. The light primer strike may be an issue.