YHM - I am making a mistake with a Four Rail Free Float Forearms

[Evolution]

Here's the deal.

Price is an issue, I'm wanting to put a rail on my M4 for a VG; maybe a light.

I'm a bit odd in the fact that I actually like the look of the space between the top of the upper and the top of the rail. This reduces my options to, but probably not limited to the DD M4, the LaRue, and the YHM.

Obviously the DD and the LaRue would be fantastic at 2/3 the weight of the YHM; but they also cost 150% more and as mentioned, cost is an issue.

Would I be making an absolute mistake with the Four Rail Free Float Forearm? I kind of figure if I'm doing it, free float it.

Any opinions or experience appreciated.

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[PrivateCitizen]

An absolute mistake? probably not if it is for the accessories you mentioned.

Honestly, if a v/afg and light are your motivations, save the coin and just get some Magpul MOE stuff.

If you must go free-float … in the end the dif between a quality DD/Larue is is less a case of the cheapest ammo. Troy extreme even less. Food for thought.

Choose the path that allows you to shoot more!

[Frank207]

Look into the Troy TRX ... my humble 2 cents

[SpookyPistolero]

Choose the path that allows you to shoot more!

Worthy of a sig quote! And a premise that has guided many purchases (or non-purchases, I suppose).

I'm waiting on the MOE midlength guards to mount exactly the accessories you've mentioned. Plus the MOE guards feel badass in-hand.

[Evolution]

The MOE is a great option, I just really prefer the traditional look.

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[CougarBlue]

I just had a YHM rail installed on a LMT upper and am split on it.

Pros-

Cheap- much cheaper than DD or some of the other options out there.
Finish- The finish was actually surprisingly nice. I wasn't expecting much and have read about machining problems with YHM rails, but I have no complaints with the quality in terms of the finish.
Ascetics- I do think it is a pretty good looking rail, although there are other good looking options out there.

Cons-

Size- I'm speaking about the weight and the diameter of the rail. I tried to attach panels to the rail after installed and it felt like I was holding a full roll of paper towels. The thing is not nearly as trim as I would like it to be. With ladders it isn't to bad, but for me, little too fat.
Fit and Function- One of the issues we had installing it was that the rails don't bridge over. So you couldn't attach a mount or handle using one of the rails on the upper, and one on the forearm. Since you aren't planning to do this, it isn't as big of an issue. It isn't something that makes or breaks it for me either, but was something I was surprised about. In the end, I will probably end up replacing it with a DD rail at some point down the road.

Overall, YHM makes decent stuff for a decent price, but you really do get what you paid for. So as long as you don't think that you are getting a smoking hot product for a ridiculously low price, then you will probably be happy with the rail.

Hope that helps.

[uwe1]

I don't carry a rifle for a living, but I know enough now that I want a nice product. I will probably never shoot enough or have the need for a free floated barrel, but I appreciate the benefits it offers so I will choose to do this to most if not all of my rifles, even if it costs more than a Magpul MOE.

The fact is, the YHM rail will work (how well does it work is the debate). I owned a diamond cut specter length FF rail. It was functional, never came loose on me, and everything, except for the DD VFG, I wanted to mount to it went on and stayed on. Long story short, I sold it because like CougarBlue said, it feels like a fat roll of paper towels. It's also heavy as hell and, in my novice opinion, screws up the handling of the gun.

I went with the Troy TRX Extreme and have never regretted it. The YHM rails are going to cost you about $130 and the Troy TRX or VTAC Extreme rails will cost about $180ish. For a measily $50 extra, the Troys are worth it. They're light and thin, making gun manipulations much more comfortable for my medium sized hands. I actually prefer the feel of the Troys over the DD rails I own. I've never tried LaRue.

Bottom line, you'll save money on the YHMs, but only if you don't get buyer's remorse, end up selling it at a loss, and then purchasing what you really wanted in the first place.



Here's the deal.

Price is an issue, I'm wanting to put a rail on my M4 for a VG; maybe a light.

I'm a bit odd in the fact that I actually like the look of the space between the top of the upper and the top of the rail. This reduces my options to, but probably not limited to the DD M4, the LaRue, and the YHM.

Obviously the DD and the LaRue would be fantastic at 2/3 the weight of the YHM; but they also cost 150% more and as mentioned, cost is an issue.

Would I be making an absolute mistake with the Four Rail Free Float Forearm? I kind of figure if I'm doing it, free float it.

Any opinions or experience appreciated.

...

[MassMark]

The folks at YHM are really nice, but seriously look at just a Troy-DI.

[Evolution]

Guys, thanks for the information. The fat part definately killed it for me. I'll keep looking at the DD, LaRue and the Troy.

I'm actually in Savannah for business, may try to stop by DD in Blackcreek while I'm here.

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[Avenger29]

I mulled hard over YHM/Midwest Industries vs Daniel Defense/LaRue. Then I remembered that Troy made rails and the choice was suddenly extremely clear.

Very, very happy with my TRX Standard 13" rail setup installed over a shaved FSB.

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/7973/mg3050.jpg

The ladder panels are temporary...still figuring out optimal locations for everything. Once I get everything set the way I want it, I'll paint what needs to be painted then.

[fivefivesix]

like everyone else stated, its too fat, ive bought 2 so far and the second one is up for sale. ive got the car length lightwheight and it is still just plain fat. i too was against spending the extra for the forearm everyone told me to get the first time around. i like the quality of yhm but again its too fat. and unless your varminting or sniping i dont think you will see the difference between a ff and a set of clamshells

[3CTactical]

I installed CougarBlue's rail and it was my first YHM install. Previously I've only dealt with the likes of Daniel Defense and Troy. What he stated is truth - the machining wasn't bad (but definately not as detailed as DD's machining), but it is like a big ole roll in the hands - especially after putting on panels. Also, as stated, the notches in the rail didn't line up evenly, so if you wanted to bridge an optic or something between the receiver and the rail, you couldn't. The only way I saw to remedy this, would be to do some mill work to get it to fit right, which negates the low price of the rail. I also wasn't completely fond of the barrel nut/rail locking arrangement as there is no real anti-rotation provision, other than the gas tube that goes through the barrel nut, which is not the best idea, IMHO. While I doubt it would be that easy to knock a properly torqued rail/barrel nut assembly loose, I tend to be kind of a belt and suspenders type of guy.

[Evolution]

Thanks guys,

FiveFiveSix, so you would advocate not bothering with the FF? Honestly, I'm mostly shooting at pieces of paper at 25 to 100 yards. If I were to look at a none FF, what about the Surefire M73?

It's clam shell, looks like it's even narrower than the DD M4 and Omega.

I'm starting to think I'm just going to have to leap and see what happens.

...

[uwe1]

My YHM had two anti rotation screws at 3 and 9 o'clock.


I installed CougarBlue's rail and it was my first YHM install. Previously I've only dealt with the likes of Daniel Defense and Troy. What he stated is truth - the machining wasn't bad (but definately not as detailed as DD's machining), but it is like a big ole roll in the hands - especially after putting on panels. Also, as stated, the notches in the rail didn't line up evenly, so if you wanted to bridge an optic or something between the receiver and the rail, you couldn't. The only way I saw to remedy this, would be to do some mill work to get it to fit right, which negates the low price of the rail. I also wasn't completely fond of the barrel nut/rail locking arrangement as there is no real anti-rotation provision, other than the gas tube that goes through the barrel nut, which is not the best idea, IMHO. While I doubt it would be that easy to knock a properly torqued rail/barrel nut assembly loose, I tend to be kind of a belt and suspenders type of guy.

[justin_247]

Thanks guys,

FiveFiveSix, so you would advocate not bothering with the FF? Honestly, I'm mostly shooting at pieces of paper at 25 to 100 yards. If I were to look at a none FF, what about the Surefire M73?

It's clam shell, looks like it's even narrower than the DD M4 and Omega.

I'm starting to think I'm just going to have to leap and see what happens.

...

If you're going to get a drop-in rail, I wouldn't even bother with the Surefire (also, it's not narrower than the Omega). A good compromise that is thin like the Omega is the Ergo Z Rail. Check it out!

If you want something like what the military uses, you can get a Troy MRF-DI or a KAC RAS for pretty cheap on Ebay.

[crazymoose]

A good compromise that is thin like the Omega is the Ergo Z Rail. Check it out!

I agree, and I'm surprised this thing isn't more popular, given the price point. If memory serves, they also make a FF version.

[Mac5.56]

Thanks guys,

FiveFiveSix, so you would advocate not bothering with the FF? Honestly, I'm mostly shooting at pieces of paper at 25 to 100 yards. If I were to look at a none FF, what about the Surefire M73?

...

One thing that I think really needs to be established in conversations like this is that there are three kinds of AR owners. 1) Operators in the field. 2) Serious shooters that want the best out of their guns and use their guns, but don't fight with their guns. 3) People that want to be cool by owning an AR.

This thread has indicated that you fit into the very broad 2nd category. As do I. So here are my thoughts after over 4000 rounds through my rifle to date:

Don't get sucked into the benefits of various AR alterations for the purpose of operating in the field simply so you can feel more secure with your rifle. Does that make sense? Basically what I am saying is that the market for AR parts mimicks what is being used by people that actually fight with their guns in order to exploit those people that aren't secure enough in their actual abilities.

My advice to you would be to buy a Magpul MOE, and if you want too add a light and foregrip do so. Then spend EVERY dime you saved on ammo and go the range and hit targets over and over again until you know your rifle.

Just as an example, this weekend at a shoot we had my fiance who shoots about once every 6 months hit three 2 inch targets dead on, one after another, out of five shots. This was with a non free float MOE, and a high quality optic. Minus the stress of a fight, there is no doubt in my mind that she could pick up that gun on any day and hit within 5 inches. In stress she would still hit a chest sized target.

I shoot 3-7 times a months, and the only military training I have is what my friends thats served in Iraq have offered, and I feel more then confident with clam shell hand guard in any possible situation I may find myself in.

Why? Because I've put thousands of rounds down range in less then a year with the rifle.

[3CTactical]

My YHM had two anti rotation screws at 3 and 9 o'clock.

I guess I should have clarified. There are two screws that prevent the rail from rotating in relation to the barrel nut, but there is nothing that would prevent the rail and the barrel nut from rotating together - other than the gas tube that goes through one of the holes in the aluminum barrel nut. That's why I made this statement:


While I doubt it would be that easy to knock a properly torqued rail/barrel nut assembly loose

I will say again, that I think it would be really difficult to knock a properly torqued barrel nut/rail assembly loose and many top shelf rails don't have true anti-rotation provisions either - I just prefer them and appreciate when they are designed into the rail.

Finally, I will add my own two cents on FF rails for first time or new AR owners. and I tell this to everyone I've built an AR for lately. I advise that you follow Mac5.56's advice: Go with MOE, unless you have a middy then just get some Cav Arms handguards until the middy MOEs make their apperance. spend the extra money on ammo and learning your weapon. Then when you figure out what will really help your shooting and what options you want, determine if you really need that rail. Also, if you don't have a red dot, I would highly recommend one of those over a rail system (but don't forget to learn how to shoot with your irons either!). Ammo, shooting and training will make you a better shooter, a FF rail, and how your rifle looks will not, so if you just want to build a cool looking AR, that's cool, go for it, but if your goal is to become a better shooter I wouldn't FF your rifle yet.