What is the best way to optimize a Direct Impingement AR for maritime use?

[Magic_Salad0892]

I'm making the decision that if I can get a DI gun water ready, that my LWRCi guns are taking the bench, and KAC will be my rifle of choice.

That will be the deciding factor.

So this brings the question.

How do I go about this?

[Cajunkraut]

From experience: Lots and lots of CLP. CLP may or may not be your lube/protectant of choice, but it's a fantastic corrosion inhibitor.

If you're operating in a salt water environment, wipe it down with CLP even more often. Even the aluminum components.

Hope this helps.

[87GN]

Depends on what you mean by "water ready".

[Skyyr]

For rust protection in salt water environments, use EEZOX. It's the #1 rust-inhibitor you can get for your gun. It's not the best lube or cleaner, but it WILL prevent rust, even during a constant salt-spray. It's nasty-smelling and somewhat slimy/sticky, but it works.

As far as making your gun maritime-ready (in regards to function), as 87GN said, that depends on what you mean.

[Dano5326]

ah... geez. I suppose refining definition of maritime use would help. You want to store it forever near saltwater? Come out of the water movie style and make some noise?

For anti-corrosion, w/o regard to cost, well a nickel boron or something coated bolt group and all other steel parts tennifer/melonite'd

A LMT style receiver extension with the hole center back & holes in the last three stock position holes will drain faster. A 6.8 bore would not have the same straw effect and would drain faster.

A bigger bore and looser tolerance gun w/o "buffer tube" of course drain faster. O wait, I think an AK might be ideal for this

[Littlelebowski]

What are you doing in or near the water?

[Magic_Salad0892]

First off I live in an area that is prone to flooding. Hence the subject matter.

Maritime use would be a few things.

- How to keep my weapon operational after water exposure. (Corrosion resistance, rust, etc.)

- Any method to make the weapon shootable after getting it un-submerged.

Also another question:

Would popping the rear pins and breaking the upper and lower real quick to let the water drain from the whole gun be the fastest way to get the water out?

Would any barrel length or gas system be better? (Gas system being carbine, midlength, rifle, etc. Not gas piston, or DI.)

Something tells me that an 11.5'' carbine might not be the best idea for this use.

For this use the 12.7'' LWRCi might be the niche, and the KAC gets another duty.

Would Slip 2000 be good lube for maritime use?

[Magic_Salad0892]

What are you doing in or near the water?

Most likely protecting my flooded home/property from looters.

[bkb0000]

Most likely protecting my flooded home/property from looters.

having had my property/house flood in '07, i've thought about this too. without any testing, i'm thinking keeping a can of PB blaster with the gun (in a back, in a pouch on your LCE, etc) is probably a good idea. the PB is aerosol pressurized, so blasting it into your action will lubricate as well as help evacuate water, and it's a good corrosion preventer. the aerosol break-free might be a good option, too, but i doubt it cuts water as well as PB. who knows, though- like i said, i haven't tested anything.

as far as clearing the bore, just pulling the bolt back enough to let air in should do that in a second or two.

[Magic_Salad0892]

Thanks bkb. I think I have some of that stuff available nearby.

BTW: I love your signatures. Lol.

[QuietShootr]

Thanks bkb. I think I have some of that stuff available nearby.

BTW: I love your signatures. Lol.

I would not spray PB Blaster on a carbine I liked. Ever seen that stuff eat a styrofoam cup? I have to think it probably wouldn't be good for the polymer parts, not to mention it penetrates like crazy and would stand a decent chance of killing some of your ammo if it got on it. Keep penetrating oils away from ammunition!

[bkb0000]

I would not spray PB Blaster on a carbine I liked. Ever seen that stuff eat a styrofoam cup? I have to think it probably wouldn't be good for the polymer parts, not to mention it penetrates like crazy and would stand a decent chance of killing some of your ammo if it got on it. Keep penetrating oils away from ammunition!

i've been using PB for gun stuff for a year and half, or so. it's been steadily becoming my main cleaner, and i've used it as a main ingredient for several home-brew CLPs and lubes- no problems with ammo nor plastics. i even have a small following of local guys who use my CLP... no complaints.

[87GN]

If we're talking short term exposure to fresh water, I wouldn't be too concerned. I had an AR in the bottom of my boat (often partially submerged) every day for months in Alaska, didn't do anything special, and never had any problems. Allowing the bore to drain for a few seconds (as mentioned) if it's completely submerged is always a good idea.

[jwperry]

Get ready to laugh...
Candle wax, Pledge and a condom.

Use the candle wax over all joins and creases of the AR(where the upper/lower join, around the charging handle and around the dust cover). This should keep the internals protected. Spray Pledge over the entire rifle, it will leave a waxy film over all the metal parts to keep them from corroding. Rubber band a condom over the muzzle.

That is how my cousin keeps his stored on his boat here in FL. Its a mess to clean the wax off and it will always start to smell like lemons when you shoot a couple of rounds and things start heating up. But, he has no rust anywhere on it.

[OTO27]

Just keep your go-to rifle inside a rifle case that floats, I keep mine in a bulldog rifle bag.

[BufordTJustice]

Lube EVERYWHERE with Slip 2000 EWL.

Buy a Fail Zero Bolt Carrier group (or Spike's Tactical; their Nickel-boron BCG's are coated by FZ).

Own a 16" Mid-length rifle with a chrome-lined bore and chamber.

Acquire a pelican or hardigg hard weapons case (they have waterproof models).

I'm an LEO in FL and I deal with humidity every friggin day. I do everything but the case (saving up for it) and I have zero issues.

[T-TAC]

If I might add my two cents. Di or gas operated , upon coming out of water I would pull the charging handle back a inch and that will allow the barrel and gas system to drain buy letting air in.
If i knew the gun was going to be fully submerged I would lube with a product called "Marine Pal". The Seals use this product as it was designed for offshore oil drilling and doesn't wash off from water.
The basic cleaning procedure after a mission in salt water is to totally flush the gun out with fresh water. Blow out with compressed air. do a regular gun cleaning procedure. and then relube with "Marine pal".

[DWood]

You don't need a different gun for the use you describe. Maritime was a bad choice of words for your question.


mar·i·time   /ˈmærɪˌtaɪm/ Show Spelled[mar-i-tahym] Show IPA
–adjective
1. connected with the sea in relation to navigation, shipping, etc.
2. of or pertaining to the sea: maritime resources.
3. bordering on the sea: maritime provinces.
4. living near or in the sea: maritime plants.
5. characteristic of a sailor; nautical: maritime clothing.

[rob_s]

YMaritime was a bad choice of words for your question.

But it sounds SO cool! :p

[parishioner]

First off I live in an area that is prone to flooding. Hence the subject matter.

Maritime use would be a few things.

- How to keep my weapon operational after water exposure. (Corrosion resistance, rust, etc.)

- Any method to make the weapon shootable after getting it un-submerged.

Also another question:

Would popping the rear pins and breaking the upper and lower real quick to let the water drain from the whole gun be the fastest way to get the water out?

Would any barrel length or gas system be better? (Gas system being carbine, midlength, rifle, etc. Not gas piston, or DI.)

Something tells me that an 11.5'' carbine might not be the best idea for this use.

For this use the 12.7'' LWRCi might be the niche, and the KAC gets another duty.

Would Slip 2000 be good lube for maritime use?

If you live in an area prone to flooding, why wouldn't you need all of your carbines to be able to function properly in or around the water?

[Copis]

Send it to Robar for "NP3 plus" coating.....just an idea

[Magic_Salad0892]

If you live in an area prone to flooding, why wouldn't you need all of your carbines to be able to function properly in or around the water?

Most important carbines get the treatment first.

I'm deciding what rifle that will be.

I'm thinking of also replacing the barrel on my KAC for a 12.5'' Noveske barrel. Would that help with water use at all?

Is there any reason to believe that an op rod gun wouldn't hold any advantage in water?

(Update: I'm down to two ARs now. 11.5'' KAC, and 12.7'' LWRCi. Both in 5.56mm. Still downsizing the armory by selling to friends. :P)

Further update: I have sold the LWRCi upper, and am going to buy another SR-15 E3 to be SBR'd. I'm pretty much all DI now.