2 quick lower build ?'s

[tb-av]

Just got through assembling a lower. Never done this before. 1st AR.

1. Magpul trigger guard ( not MOE ).

Do you bottom the hex screw out or let it set just below the surface of the receiver tabs. The screw is loose in the latter position so perhaps I need more locktite?

2. Function check trigger.

Pull trigger fully rearward. Pull hammer rearward. Hammer will stop at dis-connector and then with some added pressure will latch on it -- with no trigger movement and little to no sensation transferred to trigger finger -- releasing pressure on trigger allows hammer to move forward about 1/8" and remain latched ready to fire.

Is the part in bold correct? It seemed like as I was first doing this the trigger required some movement. A bit clunky feeling. Now it actually feels smooth but I just want to be sure it's correct.

3. Receiver tube

There is only about a 1/4 turn of the tube holding the buffer retainer down. Trying to go one more full turn locks on the retainer.

Thanks,

TB

[Col_Crocs]

Question 2:
Sounds about right. That would be your disconnector doing it's job by holding your hammer back while you have your trigger pulled to ensure you do not get a dual or tri-bursts or release you hammer causing you to have to charge your weapon again.
Question 3:
Will turning 1/4 back also not be enough to hold the retainer down? What RE are you using?
Probably not the best option as it leaves bare aluminum exposed (Not too big of a deal to some, including myself though) but you could sand or dremmel a small curve on the lip, just big enough for your retainer to stick through.

[tb-av]

Yes, that 1/4 turn goes from locked down to spring free.

2 different ext's one mil-spec from Grant and one commercial. Both fit near identical.

So you are saying I could just make a little "u" notch and go that extra full turn. If that little lip is all that holds it, I can see why staking that nut is so important.

[Col_Crocs]

So you are saying I could just make a little "u" notch and go that extra full turn.

Yup, exactly. :D I suggest you use the milspec one since you already have it anyway. If you dig around the site, you'll see that its advantages go beyond just having full formed peaks which some commercial stocks already have.

[Col_Crocs]

Also, if I may suggest, since youre building it yourself do the following:
1. Check the engagement of the endplate locking key on your RE's thread channel. If both are up to spec, it should extend all the way into the ceiling of the channel.
2. Before staking, test the tightness of the RE. Holding the lower and the RE, carefully test if you can turn it by hand. You shouldnt this problem though as long as you torque to spec.
And dont forget to apply anti-seize or moly grease on the threads.
I apologize for sounding like a know-it-all but I had trouble with an improperly torqued RE (done by feel) just last week and really wished I had done the check.