View Full Version : My first build
I putting together my first AR im setting it up for 0-300 yard encounters. Maybe later I will build a 20" SPR
Spike's Tactical "INFIDEL" lower
DPMS A3 Flattop
DPMS 16" chrome lined barrel w/ carbine lenght gas system 1X9 twist
DPMS charging handle w/ tac latch
DPMS bolt carrier and assembly
DPMS Parts kit for lower
YHM Specter Light weight free float Forearm
YHM Specter Gas block
YHM End Cap
YHM Forearm mounted front flip
YHM Rear flip
YHM Phantom comp/brake (perm attached to make MA compliant)
YHM Skeletonized stock
YHM Foward grip
YHM Ambidextrous carbine sling mount
ZM Weapons single point bungie sling
Sure Grip ergo grip
EO Tech 552
Sure Fire G2 mounted at four o'clock position
Other small items like rail cover that i really dont feel like listing. O yeah I dont need to shit from all you guys about the insane amount of YHM stuff. Im just trying to keep it simple by limiting the amount of vendors im using.
dialM4murder
07-01-07, 12:48
Sounds like your off to a fairly good start. You might catch some flack with all the DPMS components. Id go with another brand on certain parts listed.
The whole "infidel" thing is getting pretty old and is kinda cheesy. As a Muslim myself, I dont think you really want to wear the true meaning of the word as a badge of honor or a "im your huckleberry" type thing.
the1911fan
07-01-07, 14:27
The whole "infidel" thing is getting pretty old and is kinda cheesy. As a Muslim myself, I dont think you really want to wear the true meaning of the word as a badge of honor or a "im your huckleberry" type thing.
Maybe Kafir is more appropriate
dialM4murder
07-01-07, 19:56
Maybe Kafir is more appropriate
While also some what derogatory, I wouldn't recommend that either. :)
If you simply like the look of Arabic script, pick something more pleasant.
As for the lower, I say don't worry about what anyone else thinks about it and get what you like... I personally like the Infidel thing, but I like bible verses better.
I would look at CMMG instead of DPMS, some say they use the same barrel blanks but I like the extended feed ramps and the tighter twist rate.
I don’t like a lot of DPMS’s parts, and DPMS is the first company I have seen screw up a freaking roll pin... :confused:
YHM makes fine products and I have nothing bad to say about their gas blocks, front sights, and muzzle devices, but I personally like the MI rails. The way YHM did the rails make them a little hard on my hands, and I have thick skin, but I’m sure they did that to cut some weight.
Mostly I say look at the picture threads and decide what you like and what you don’t
If you stick to quality parts you will have no problem mixing and matching.
And for a 16in carbine you might want a heavy buffer.
I run an LMT MPI bolt and carrier in my 16in carbine.
Also check out the Magpul CTR stock, a lot of dealers on this site have a Mil-spec kit you can buy.
Stuff like bungee slings and forward grips can be trial and error until you find what works for you.
And don’t be afraid to mix and match parts, as long as you use quality parts you can mix them up. I’m using a CMT upper, a barrel I got from BravoCompany (non BCM), LMT BCG, LMT CH, and a Colt carry handle.
I'm not worried about the lower. Plus I got it for an amazing price. As far as the "Infidel" I could care less, If I worried about all the time I offended or pissed some one off id never leave the house. I wanted the lower that said "Stay back 100 feet or you will be killed " in arabic script.
Here is the place where i got the lower www.spikestactical.com
dialM4murder
07-02-07, 09:47
I'm not worried about the lower. Plus I got it for an amazing price. As far as the "Infidel" I could care less, If I worried about all the time I offended or pissed some one off id never leave the house. I wanted the lower that said "Stay back 100 feet or you will be killed " in arabic script.
Here is the place where i got the lower www.spikestactical.com
Oh I wasn't offended if you were reffering to me. Personaly I could care less. Just my opinion, which of course you open yourself up to when you post on a public forum.
As far as the stand back 100 ft. I don't think they sell that one anymore, I didn't see it on their site. That one I thought was actually kinda cool.
PALADIN-hgwt
07-02-07, 10:19
xxxxx
Hypothetically, in the aftermath of a terror "event", what are the chances some nervous minimum wage security guard with a 38 revolver won't pump a round or two into the back of a guy wearing or displaying "hamas colors", aka Arabic script. Seriously, why not just wrap a tea towel around your head as a target indicator. What seems neat in theater might not play well on the streets of a major US city.
Paladin
Not a bad point…
But, if he felt it was an issue he could always cover it with tape or hit it with some paint, magic marker, or what ever.
Dick-
The good thing about that rifle is that it's yours and you built it. Assuming you assembled your own lower, you now know more about the operating mechanism than most people do.
When I started to get into ARs I built 3 guns from Bushmaster, RRA, LMT, Cavarms, and even Model 1 parts. I learned from those guns what I like and don't like, and used that knowledge to build the guns I currently own.
Take your new rifle and shoot the hell out of it. Get yourself into a carbine class and dump 1k rounds through it in 3 days without cleaning. Get out and shoot some 3-gun matches with it. You'll learn a whole lot more useful information that way and be able to say with confidence "this is the rifle that works for me and the kind of shooting I do".
Robb Jensen
07-03-07, 05:33
I strongly recommend against the YHM Specter Gas block. If installed correctly and if you use red Loc-Tite or Rocksett on it's screws it shouldn't shoot loose. But because nothing but clamping force and friction is holding it in position on the barrel it has a high probability of moving. I would recommend cutting (shaving) the FSB down to fit under the YHM tube. This has virtually no possibility of moving because two pins are holding the FSB/gas block from moving side to side or front to back and will be much more inherently reliable. If you don't want to shave the FSB into a low profile gas block you could use a LaRue or VLTOR gas block and have it pinned in place (for me the shaved FSB makes more since because the barrel is already drilled for it's two pins).
If using a DPMS bolt carrier and barrel. I highly recommend reaming the chamber with a 5.56mm NATO neck and throat reamer and staking the carrier key with a MOACKS (DPMS carriers seem to run pretty well but they stake very poorly).
Personally if given the choice in carriers (and bolts) I would use Colt, LMT, CMT, BCM, FN 'contracted', & Alexander Arms. (of these only the CMT needs restaking).
I'd also recommend the use of an H buffer, standard power buffer spring with a carbine gas system length AR and I'd recommend using a 5-coil extractor spring w/black buffer an a Crane O-ring or MGI D-fender.
Just speaking from personal experience, my YHM stuff has never given me a problem. I have RRA 16" 1/9 twist that originally came w/a YHM carbine rail and YHM rail gas block but I replaced it with a specter gas block and a YHM rifle length lightweight rail fore end. I did locktite and torque the heck out of the screws but after 4k+ rounds since I swapped the stuff out, it hasn't given me any problems. This is basically my "game gun" or 3 gun rifle and is the one that gets shot the most. Granted I have not shot more than say, 400 rounds in a day but I've never had a problem. The gas block is totally covered/protected by the rail so it doesn't get knocked around. Since getting that gun however, I have moved up and used higher quality (Troy, MI, Larue) parts on other builds but as the old saying goes, if it ain't broke, don't fix is, so as hard as it's been not to swap out that rail and gas block for something "newer, cooler, better, etc" I just can't bring myself to do it.
Coming in 4th out of 65 shooters this weekend at the local quarterly tactical rifle match with that same rifle reinforced it for me.
Robb Jensen
07-03-07, 06:49
If you shoot to win or shoot to survive you should use a pinned gas block.
Crane once thought that set screw gas blocks work well too. Then some shot loose on SPRs, they later recalled all of them to pin them.
If you're not getting the FSB at least get a LaRue or VLTOR low profile gas block and have Randall (www.ar15barrels.com) or ADCO (www.adcofirearms.com) pin it for you.
Yep, I agree, if you're gonna go into combat or plan to have to fight it out get a pinned one.
If it's a plinker/tinker rifle, use whatever you feel comfortable with.
Guys. I must thank you. The wealth of knowledge I am getting from this forum is immense. I am extremely grateful that all of you are helping outline some things for me. As far as the gas block goes im not getting a standard front sight post. I am ordering just the barrel, reciever, charging handle and BCG&A. Ive already re-thought some of the parts and I am planing on going with a better quality trigger group and BCG&A and different gas block, i was thinking about that one before.
So wait, this isn't even built yet? There's a chance to make changes?
Oh dear god! Post your budget and I guarantee that many members here can tell you much better ways to spend the same money.
No this is a work in progress. Most if not all parts are on order. My budget is about 1100-1300.
S&W M&P15T for $1400 (http://www.gunsamerica.com/976863002/Guns/Rifles/Smith-Wesson-Rifles/SMITH_WESSON.htm)
I apologise for being blunt but with a budget of $1300 there would be no DPMS or YHM parts on my build.
Paul
Can't have the S&W in the Peoples Republic of Massachussetts. And the its actually closer 1100 and thats for everything my range bag/rifle case, all my mags, and cleaning supplies. The Actual amount is 1029.68
What are you allowed to have? No S&W models at all, no Stag models at all, etc.?
I'm not familiar with the requirements of your laws there in terms of accessories.
The saying goes around here if it cool or usefull you cant have it in Mass.No S&W models at all, no flash hiders no bayo lugs, muzzle attachment must be perm attached. The cheapest you can find a M4 style rifle around here is about 1000 for a bushy. after that they go way up 12-13 for a stag and so on.
dialM4murder
07-03-07, 12:40
Do any complete upper assemblies feature pinned glass blocks? Such as Stag, RRA etc?
I generally don't fool with building the uppers, just the lower assembly as i don't posses the tools or knowledge to tamper with barrels and gas tubes etc.
Most MA legal guns have the pinned gas block but I circumvented that route by ordering just a barrel a gas tube and upper receiver. We also are not allowed telescoping stocks they must be fixed.
Being that I'm from Ma, too, I'm pretty well versed in the laws in this horrid state. You, sir, need yourself a pre-ban lower. With that, you can do whatever the hell you want to it assuming it came from the factory with at least three of the listed "evil features" meaning, the pistol grip, the detachable mag, and one other (Usually the birdcage flash hider and/or bayo lug) If you're going to build it, you may as well build it right the first time. This way, you can have the sliding stock if you want it, you can buy any post ban upper you want provided it's overall barrel length is 16" (That's the Fed law) It takes awhile to find a good pre-ban lower, but once you do, you can build the rifle you want to have, and the rifle this state DOESN'T want you to have, but can't stop you from doing it, just to spite them. :D
Robb Jensen
07-09-07, 05:04
Do any complete upper assemblies feature pinned glass blocks? Such as Stag, RRA etc?
I generally don't fool with building the uppers, just the lower assembly as i don't posses the tools or knowledge to tamper with barrels and gas tubes etc.
Both Stag and RRA uppers have pinned FSBs (if you order them with lo-pro gas blocks they aren't pinned). The Stag (includes CMT and S&W) are VERY difficult to removed the backwards installed taper pins (I don't even try on these anymore). RRAs pins are easily as hell to remove (they're non tapered too, just like LMT).
dialM4murder
07-09-07, 14:10
Both Stag and RRA uppers have pinned FSBs (if you order them with lo-pro gas blocks they aren't pinned). The Stag (includes CMT and S&W) are VERY difficult to removed the backwards installed taper pins (I don't even try on these anymore). RRAs pins are easily as hell to remove (they're non tapered too, just like LMT).
OK thanks. So whats the advantage of pinned or not pinned if u dont mind me asking?
Why wouldn't, or why would an off the shelf Stag complete upper for example be fine as is?
AR15barrels
07-09-07, 14:46
The Stag (includes CMT and S&W) are VERY difficult to removed the backwards installed taper pins (I don't even try on these anymore).
:mad: :D :p
I put the lower together friday night
I used a DPMS parts kit, a ergo sure grip and a Command Arms telescoping stock. My upper and barrel should be in sometime next week. And Cuda there are other ways around not having a pre ban lower to get all the goodies like flash hiders and tele stocks.
I'm interested in your methods :p :D Shoot me a PM with your ways, if you don't mind. I'm quite curious. Thanks
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