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bgoode
08-08-10, 16:14
Okay fellas!!! I need some advice from you guys with more experience.

I acquired a new to me 2008 Diamond "The Rock" and got a few hrs of practice in.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v454/bgoode/c360115d.jpg

Seems like I spent the majority of today adjusting the sights to no avail. I think I am trying to hard. SO

I said screw it and got the sight where I thought was good enough at 15 yards considering every movement and shot has a different point of impact as its not a friggin GUN and my body isnt used to this!!!

So........

This is where I stopped for today, This is at 20 yards and a small game of "Ring around the posies" and hit the bee in the top left.

I started looking past the sight and more at the target and not trying so hard.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v454/bgoode/837ee640.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v454/bgoode/6ee8a4ed.jpg


Well, How am I doing? Good enough to stop worrying with the sight for a while and simply shoot?

ryan
08-08-10, 16:33
You may want to look into paper tuning it with you hunting broadheads unless you are going to shoot mechanicals. Good groups now shoot the cams off bro.

Gutshot John
08-09-10, 09:08
It looks like you're pretty dialed in for 20 yards but I'm wondering how much impact shift you're talking about? Or are you aiming for the big bee in the center and hitting all around? Are you shooting target points or broadhead?

Body position and natural point of aim have huge consequences down range, the longer the range the larger the consequences but at 20 yards there shouldn't be all that much and with moderate practice you should be able to hit a 2x2" square pretty consistently. It might be that you're forcing yourself to do something with the sights.

The sights might also be part of the problem assuming that's a five-pin setup (hard to tell from photo) which I've always found to be too busy. I'd consider a 3 pin setup for either 10, 20 and 30 yards (probably best at your skill level) or 20, 30 or 40 (when you get better). You can bracket it pretty easily and with the latter can take it out to 50 with holds and practice.

I'd recommend going to a dedicated archery store where the guys themselves are bow hunters. Some stores even have indoor ranges. Working out the kinks in technique (like elbow position).

vaspence
08-09-10, 10:15
I'm definitely with John on the sights. If this is a hunting bow, if it were me I'd go to a single pin sight. Depending on your hunting distances, the Rock is a plenty fast bow to shoot single pin to 20 - 25yards. But like firearms, sights are a personal preference so what works for you, works for you.

What I find important and usually have to work out when getting ready for bow season is release and follow through. Even a minute lack of follow through (movement of the release hand, head or bow hand after release) will show up on the target. Notice the left and right of your arrows on the target, this is usually a result of head movement i.e. looking to see where the arrow went which in turn can move the bow sideways. I am definitely no expert but I hunt with a bow a lot (average about 15-20 days each year) and find myself working on this every year in the first week or so of practice (i.e. right now). John offered up good advice if you have a shop nearby or a local 3D club the lessons learned in an afternoon with a good shooter will help you out immensely. All that said your shots aren't bad.

Hope this helps and again I'll state I am no master archer just passing on what was shown to me.

Spence

bgoode
08-09-10, 12:38
I did alot of digging online for examples of proper form so I have plenty to work on.

I am aiming at each dot seperate. 1 target 1 arrow idea and the bee in the upper left side.

Thanks for the input fellas!~!!!

Gutshot John
08-09-10, 17:36
I did alot of digging online for examples of proper form so I have plenty to work on.

That's a really good start but having another person who can troubleshoot your technique and tell you what you're doing wrong will save you a lot of aggravation. Having a good shop that knows you as a customer will yield dividends down the road not only as an archer but also as a source of information and intel when it comes to deer.

Spence is absolutely correct in emphasizing follow-through and, in thinking about it, would explain the issue you're having with the sight. I'm no master archer (or even particularly good) either but I think you'll find that a bow and arrow fulfill a more pure marksmanship challenge in terms of technique being a never ending process of incremental perfection. I'd also agree that 3 is the most number of pins you should really use. The best bowhunters I know all use single-pins though I still use 3.

crossgun
08-09-10, 20:50
Now that you have made it clear that you are shooting at each spot you are really off to a great start!

Remember your target area for whitetails is about eight inches when you factor in the heart and lungs. Your grouping far better than a paper plate. Stay within your ability and base yardage and distance on that. Bow hunting is an ethical sport and shot placement is very critical. There will be times you must pass on shots even if they are close because you don’t have the angle to put the arrow where it needs to be and that is OK because that is archery. You can’t break game animals down with a sharp stick like you can with a bullet.

Your set up in general looks pretty good. Don’t choke the bow with your grip. It needs to be relaxed and the bow should jump out of your hand. That why there is a bow sling on it. Maintain back tension as you press the trigger, then continue to aim (concentrate) at the spot until the arrow hits the target. As mentioned, no peaking to see where the shot went. Your form needs to be rock steady and your follow through aggressive.

Are you happy with your peep sight? Does it always open for you? Is the hole large enough to see the pins in low light? I would use a different peep sight on a hunting rig.

Looking good, just keep doing things they same way and practice as much as you can. Work on estimating yardage as well.

It never hurts to find a pro shop where you can take a lesson.

bgoode
08-09-10, 21:33
Thanks again guys!! Heading to shop tomorrow. I need more practice but I really like the purity of the bow. Do they make a Warren Tactical peep??? :)

ryan
08-09-10, 21:48
Surz-a-Peep, all u need

carshooter
08-10-10, 09:31
Thanks again guys!! Heading to shop tomorrow. I need more practice but I really like the purity of the bow. Do they make a Warren Tactical peep??? :)

Taking it to a professional archery shop is the best idea. If nothing else, you'll get some excellent tips on your technique, but even more importantly, they can make sure that the bow even fits you. (Draw length, etc.) Since it was set up for someone else, even if it fits close enough for you to shoot well, it still may need some minor tweaks.

I noticed your shed behind your archery target. Don't be surprised that if/ when you miss the target completely, an arrow will go right through the side of your shed. :smile: Been there, done that.

bgoode
08-10-10, 20:27
Spent some time at the range today and this was my best group of the session.

Distance is 20 yards and after this set of 3 the next 4 sets of 3 at least 1 arrow was in the black tape in the center. Not too shabby :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v454/bgoode/094e9c6e.jpg

bgoode
08-14-10, 20:40
I think I am doing alot better. When I dont chicken wing my release arm I get pretty decent hits!!

30 Yards all aimed at top dot.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v454/bgoode/8e8776d0.jpg

In between scenerio 27 yard 1 shot 1 chance :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v454/bgoode/5bdb062a.jpg

mikeross506
09-30-10, 19:39
It doesn't matter if your sight is out of adjustment a little. All arrows should pattern in the same group. The group may be off the bullseye one way or another but it will be a group regardless. Once you are regularly putting arrows in that same group THEN move your sights. A man will drive himself crazy chasing the arrows with his sights. Just as in shooting a firearm, there are steps you must follow for accuracy. Even knock point, identical stance, same anchor points etc. Just practice practice practice until your fundamentals are second nature then worry about tuning it all in...

Mikey
09-30-10, 19:52
It doesn't matter if your sight is out of adjustment a little. All arrows should pattern in the same group. The group may be off the bullseye one way or another but it will be a group regardless. Once you are regularly putting arrows in that same group THEN move your sights. A man will drive himself crazy chasing the arrows with his sights. Just as in shooting a firearm, there are steps you must follow for accuracy. Even knock point, identical stance, same anchor points etc. Just practice practice practice until your fundamentals are second nature then worry about tuning it all in...


Second that. Above all have fun. You'll never enjoy hunting with a rifle ever again!

Mike

Watrdawg
09-30-10, 20:29
Definitely make sure that you take the bow to a pro archery shop and have it fitted to you. Make sure the draw length is correct and that the arrows are the right length and spine for your draw length. If all of those are off the your groups will be very inconsistant. If all is correct then practice and practice some more. I shoot a Trophy Ridge Matrix 5 pin sight and the pins are set at 15, 25, 35, 45, and 55 yards. I normally don't shoot beyond 45 yards though. The main reason I have a 55yard pin is that I have elk hunted a couple of times and have needed that pin. I begin shooting about 2-3 months before deer archery season and shoot up to 50 arrows a day 2-3 days a week. If your going to be hunting from a treestand make sure you practice from a tree stand also. Your aiming points will be different and your yardages will also because of the angle.

It all starts with a properly fitted bow and arrows that are setup for your draw length and draw weight.

mikeross506
09-30-10, 23:22
[. I shoot a Trophy Ridge Matrix 5 pin sight and the pins are set at 15, 25, 35, 45, and 55 yards. I normally don't shoot beyond 45 yards though. The main reason I have a 55yard pin is that I have elk hunted a couple of times and have needed that pin.

It all starts with a properly fitted bow and arrows that are setup for your draw length and draw weight.[/QUOTE]

For a novice, be careful using a 5 pin set up. It is very easy to pick up the wrong pin in your peep when your adrenaline is flowing! Nothing like sinking your arrow 5 yards short of your buck! I've been throwing arrows religiously for a decade and have done it more than once!:laugh: Now all I use is a 3 pin. As flat as today's bows shoot it's all the typical hunter needs...

Again, this isn't directed against you Wtrdawg. Just passing on real world advice from my many real world mistakes!

Watrdawg
10-01-10, 06:58
[. I shoot a Trophy Ridge Matrix 5 pin sight and the pins are set at 15, 25, 35, 45, and 55 yards. I normally don't shoot beyond 45 yards though. The main reason I have a 55yard pin is that I have elk hunted a couple of times and have needed that pin.

It all starts with a properly fitted bow and arrows that are setup for your draw length and draw weight.

For a novice, be careful using a 5 pin set up. It is very easy to pick up the wrong pin in your peep when your adrenaline is flowing! Nothing like sinking your arrow 5 yards short of your buck! I've been throwing arrows religiously for a decade and have done it more than once!:laugh: Now all I use is a 3 pin. As flat as today's bows shoot it's all the typical hunter needs...

Again, this isn't directed against you Wtrdawg. Just passing on real world advice from my many real world mistakes![/QUOTE]

Above quote is dead on. I should have said that myself. Over time I've become used to shooting with that type of site. Takes practice!

A good 3 pin site will handle 99% of the shooting situations you will probably put your self in. Especially if you keep you shots to a set distance, ie: 15, 25 and 35 yards. The first time you draw on a deer you will probably have a big case of the jitters anyways. I've been bow hunting for at least 10 years and deer hunting in general at least 30. The first deer I drew on I had a case of buck fever big time. Not because of the deer but because it was my first possible bow kill. Easy 20 yard shot on a still standing broadside 6pt buck. Nothing big. I was shaking like a leaf. I let the arrow fly and it hit high and towards the rear of the ribs. Luckily I hit the liver and the deer only ran 50+ yards and fell. I have never been so nervous hunting anything as that day.

mikeross506
10-01-10, 12:39
Haha. No kidding. I've blown all kinds of opportunities over the years. Not once was it for some complex reason. It was always me screwing up the fundamentals! At least after practicing for all those hours before hand I couldn't blame it on anyone or thing but ME! :laugh:

rjohnson4405
11-03-10, 12:17
Keep in mind that a lot of strings will stretch up through the first 200 shots even.

There are some pre-stretched strings (Winner's choice is one I think) but even their POI seems to drift over the course of the first hundred or so shots.

After 100 shots adjust the sights exactly and I'll bet they'll stop moving or at least move around a lot less after that.

After the 200 mark if you're not consistent, it's you for sure.

Although, shooting as close as you are (out to 25 yards) it may not be as big of a shift.