Glock questions...

[Steve S.]

My wife is going to be taking her CPL class shortly, so she will be taking over my current carry gun. I currently own 4 pistols, all metal, but I'm ready to arrive at the tupperware party.

There's a Glock 19 Gen 4 just screaming my name at the local gunshop. I've read a lot on the Gen 4 and I feel like its worth the extra $20 over the Gen 3. I also put in a decent amount of trigger time (250 rounds) with the local rental G19.

I love the gun and had no problem getting 1.5" groups at 7 yards without much effort, amazing considering the condition of this rental pistol. The only thing I don't like is the hard trigger break, being used to DA/SA or SAO. I noticed I needed to really get on it which led to a few flyers.

I'll run the gun as is for awhile before making any modifications. I would like to consider my options for lightening or smoothing the trigger down the road though. My questions are as follows...

What would be a good setup? I've heard 4# connector and NY1 trigger spring really cleans it up. Good or are there better combinations?

A friend mentioned the $0.25 trigger job. I'm very skeptical (or I'd hear of AR owners doing it). Any truth to this or waste of time?

Are there any mods to shorten the reset?

I've read a lot, so i apologize if this is covered on here already, but I get the feeling a lot of info I'm reading on other sites is from Bubbas. Just weighing my options. Thanks guys. Know I can trust the professional opinions around here...

[ROCKET20_GINSU]

I don't have any experience with this set up but I've heard that the NY#1 spring w/ 3.5 lb connector is a "close" trigger to a traditional DAO type pistol.

I've run a 3.5 connector in an otherwise stock trigger with good results. I really liked it. It lightened the trigger ~1 lb and broke much cleaner but maintained a pretty solid reset.

Personally, I run a bone stock trigger in everything I CCW or use for HD. Polishing the trigger definitely makes it smoother, but nothing that a ton of dry firing won't do...but its faster and you can have a smoother trigger quicker :dance3:. Use a dremel, it'll save you time. btw, I've found though that with a super smooth trigger I need to clean the lower a bit more often to keep it smooth as you can feel the friction from the carbon if your trigger is lighter than stock.

Vanek makes some terrific and super smooth triggers that you can adjust the pre travel and overtravel on but I would not use these on any CCW/HD guns, only competition (just my opinion).

My advice is to buy this great and reliable platform, put a case or two of 9mm down the pipe w/ the stock trigger then see if you still feel like you want to tweak the trigger characteristics. And if you do there are plenty of options :meeting:

GU

[Steve S.]

I don't have any experience with this set up but I've heard that the NY#1 spring w/ 3.5 lb connector is a "close" trigger to a traditional DAO type pistol.

I've run a 3.5 connector in an otherwise stock trigger with good results. I really liked it. It lightened the trigger ~1 lb and broke much cleaner but maintained a pretty solid reset.

Personally, I run a bone stock trigger in everything I CCW or use for HD. Polishing the trigger definitely makes it smoother, but nothing that a ton of dry firing won't do...but its faster and you can have a smoother trigger quicker :dance3:. Use a dremel, it'll save you time. btw, I've found though that with a super smooth trigger I need to clean the lower a bit more often to keep it smooth as you can feel the friction from the carbon if your trigger is lighter than stock.

Vanek makes some terrific and super smooth triggers that you can adjust the pre travel and overtravel on but I would not use these on any CCW/HD guns, only competition (just my opinion).

My advice is to buy this great and reliable platform, put a case or two of 9mm down the pipe w/ the stock trigger then see if you still feel like you want to tweak the trigger characteristics. And if you do there are plenty of options :meeting:

GU

Thanks for the quick response bro. I don't "hate" the trigger, I'm sure its just a case of something new. I've fired poly guns before, just never in a comfortable "this is my own gun to shoot" setting. I was really impressed with the G19. I actually can't get it off my mind and can't get myself to throw out my groups I shot with them (one is hanging on the fridge; I might try and post a pic later)

I've already got 250 rounds through the rental, so my first box to last box groups were damatically different. I would also like to learn the stock platform for any future empolyment that involves carrying a glock.

My big issue is I'm looking for a 9mm to double as a carry and IDPA gun. I really think the G19 is the perfect size for both worlds. That's kinda where the lighter trigger comes into play.

I will definately look into the 3.5# connector. How easy would it be to switch out connectors back to the heavier OEM one? Something that can be done quickly before a match?

I'm waiting to pull the trigger on the purchase until I try out the M&P 9mm. I don't think its gonna work out, only because they don't currently offer a 9mm in midsize. And I'm having a great love affair with that G19 :D .

Would anyone mind taking a side by side picture of the M&P fullsize and/or compact next to a G19 if they happen to own both? Greatly appreciated.

[Palmguy]

https://www.m4carbine.net/showpost.php?p=424787&postcount=11

You are doing the right thing to run it for awhile before jacking with a bunch of stuff on it. Based on what you said you don't like, I'd keep the 3.5/NY1 combo in your mind because you may prefer that setup. The parts only cost about $20 and it only takes a couple of minutes to swap them out once you know what you are doing.

[M4arc]

Rocket gave some pretty solid advice so I'll only add this; stay away from the .25 cent trigger job!

I've seen two of these do-it-yourself trigger jobs go terribly wrong. And both times when I asked the shooters what they did to make their utterly reliable Glocks not work both said they did the .25 cent trigger job that they found on GT. :rolleyes:

[JHC]

Prob the best advice as already offered is to run it stock for awhile. Like 500-1000 rds awhile. For a carry gun you can do very good work with the stock setup. Then maybe next step is the OEM 3.5 connector if you really sure that's what you want/need. You sound like you're off to a good start managing that Glock trigger anyway.

[DWood]

First, Glock now calls their "-" trigger a 4.5 pound, not 3.5. That doesn't matter though, it is still the Glock "minus" OEM trigger and that is what I use. The combo you described with the minus, along with the NY-1 spring makes for a shorter reset and some like that.

Another option is the Ghost Rocket trigger connector that has a tab on the rear that is custom fit (sounds hard but isn't) to your gun. The tab eliminates overtravel once the shot breaks. The Ghost Rocket is said to be a 3.5 pound trigger and is also very popular; it works.

sidebar: I happen to work with the man who invented the Rocket. Small world.

[Seraph]

Bone stock is a swell setup for a Glock 19 trigger. The Zev-tech Fulcrum trigger sets, as sold by Glockworx, are nice, but I can't call them vital to satisfaction on a Glock 19 carry gun. I'd go with bone stock, and some dry firing.

[Steve S.]

Rocket gave some pretty solid advice so I'll only add this; stay away from the .25 cent trigger job!

I've seen two of these do-it-yourself trigger jobs go terribly wrong. And both times when I asked the shooters what they did to make their utterly reliable Glocks not work both said they did the .25 cent trigger job that they found on GT. :rolleyes:


I had a feeling. Or else we'd be doin 25c trigger jobs on our AR's and 1911s. After reading a ton of posts about how great they are, I thought I'd ask here where there is a more "no BS" policy. I run a decent amount of ammo through my guns so I know what works and what doesn't, but I know there are guys on here who do 50x the amount I do, some day in and day out. You start seeing what works in those volumes...

I will definately buy a brick of ammo and run through that before making any decisions, but it's great to hear that I can go from lighter to heavier in only a few minutes once I learn the platform. You just don't really see that simplicity in other platforms....

Thanks for the input guys. :D

[TheSmiter1]

The (-) connector and the NY1 trigger are a bit stiff at first, and gave me a callous on the bottom of my trigger finger after about 500 rounds. Since then, they have broken in nicely, and I doubt if it is a heavier pull than the stock connector and spring when the pistol was new.

One bonus of the NY1 spring is that it is less likely to break than the stock trigger spring. However, the stock trigger spring is not expensive and it is not difficult to change it out every 5k-10k. I like that the NY1 spring is more durable, and it is one of my reasons for keeping it, along with the trigger being (a bit more) smooth throughout the entire pull. The reset is also more positive.

[dojpros]

Buy the gun
Buy a 1000 rounds of ammo
Run it stock
Take a class
Buy 1000 rounds
Run it stock
Maybe add sights that you like i.e some thing from Ameriglo using a .125 or .140 front with a .180 rear
Buy more ammo etc.

[Steve S.]

Buy the gun
Buy a 1000 rounds of ammo
Run it stock
Take a class
Buy 1000 rounds
Run it stock
Maybe add sights that you like i.e some thing from Ameriglo using a .125 or .140 front with a .180 rear
Buy more ammo etc.

Thanks for that....

The trigger is more for IDPA, Steel Shoots, and Bullseye competition. That's why I'm trying to find a middle ground so it's not dangerously light for carry or training courses. But if they switch out easily, that opens a whole other option.

I had looked at those Ameriglo sights a few weeks ago after seeing a lot of members here recommending them. I really do like the combinations they have.

I thought I wouldn't like the large front post that comes stock, but it was both accurate and fast. There's always the "neon nail polish" sight job that i've done a few times. Or a dab of Testors paint in something bright usually helps a lot. Those Ameriglo's would definately be on my "down the road" list.

[Steve S.]

https://www.m4carbine.net/showpost.php?p=424787&postcount=11

You are doing the right thing to run it for awhile before jacking with a bunch of stuff on it. Based on what you said you don't like, I'd keep the 3.5/NY1 combo in your mind because you may prefer that setup. The parts only cost about $20 and it only takes a couple of minutes to swap them out once you know what you are doing.

I just noticed the link for the pictures. Thanks a lot bro! My local shop only has a couple M&P compacts, no fullsize versions right now. They are actually a lot closer in size than I'd thought. I will hopefully get some range time in with the M&P 9mm this weekend (it's literally always rented out when I go in). I feel a need to compare the two, given the reputation the M&P is getting. When you objectively look at pistols (base&gear price included), I believe the M&P and Glock are the ideal combat handguns.

I really perfer running my systems standard until I know the platform well. I hear a lot of "should have gotten a piston" when I show anyone my Daniel Defense. I probably could have gotten a piston at close to the price, but I want to master the widely used DI platform before anything else. Knowing the ins-and-outs of the most widely used guns is always a good idea IMO.

Once again, thanks for the pics bro. I'll keep you posted on which new toy I bring home. :D