Apex Hard Sear or Apex DCAEK?

[masternave]

Ok, so I'm going to bite the bullet and at least get the Apex Tactical Hard Sear. So convince me why I should go all the way and go for the DCAEK. Or talk me out of it completely. It's up to you.

[SteveL]

I've been debating this as well for my new M&Ps. I'm leaning toward the DCAEK right now, but I would certainly appreciate any and all feedback I can get before making a purchase.

[Mikey]

Definitely the DCAEK. It keeps your trigger pulls a nice firm 5.5ish lbs. which is still in the stock lb range. It is super smooth though.

The best part is the great reset you get with the stronger springs as well. Very smooth and definitely enough to let me know it's there.

Mike

[texag]

I own a M&P9 FS with DCAEK and a M&P9c with sear only. Both have very nice trigger pulls, and the reset length is the same, but the fullsize is a much smoother pull with a more forceful reset. Slightly relax your finger and the trigger pushes it back to the proper point before your sights are back on target. The compact still has a rather indistinct reset, but since the reset point is the same it doesn't present an issue. The only thing keeping me from getting the striker block and spring kit for the compact is lack of money.

[SteveL]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I think I'll be going with the DCAEK for sure when I buy.

[ralph]

I've got DCAEK's in both my FS9 and Midsize.45, It's the only way to go, there are no real downsides to the DCAEK,Smooth pull,stronger trigger return spring that really helps with the reset, This simple upgrade turns the M&P into a very nice shooting pistol, It's worth every dime..I cannot see sending a M&P to a 'smith for a "trigger job" when the DCAEK does the same thing for less, and takes about an hour (or less) to install yourself..

[beastfrog]

If money is an issue, I recommend the Apex FSB as the first modification. This provides the biggest improvement in smoothness. Of course, you can round the original sear yourself but it's much easier to buy this improvement. While it's apart smooth all the metal to metal contacts with a little polish.

After that it's up to you and where you want to take the trigger.

The Apex sear increases pre-travel, reduces over travel and lowers the poundage.

The Apex TRS and sear spring increase the poundage back to about 5.5#.

[Hardchrome]

The Apex DCAEK is the way to go. You won't regret this purchase.

[spamsammich]

The Apex DCAEK is the way to go. You won't regret this purchase.

I agree, I have been very happy with mine so far.

[SteveL]

My DCAEK kits came in today. I watched the videos on YouTube so I could get them installed. The sear and sear spring were no problem, and the trigger return spring wasn't too bad either. I'm unable to put in the ultimate striker blocks for now because I don't have the means to remove the rear sight. However, there's one part in the kit which I have no idea what to do with. I've watched all the videos and either I'm missing something big-time or it's not shown. It's a short silver pin. One end of it is flat and the other end is rounded. Can anyone identify this for me? I took a picture of it, but I don't know if it's good enough to be helpful.

http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo98/fireman325/DSC02592.jpg

[Watrdawg]

Ordered a M&P 45 Midsize with the DCAEK and having the trigger polished from G & R Tactical last week. I'm dieing to get it in and put some rounds down range. Kind of like a kid in the candy shope but all the jars are just out of reach.

[RWK]

Slave pin to assist with installation of the trigger return spring.


My DCAEK kits came in today. I watched the videos on YouTube so I could get them installed. The sear and sear spring were no problem, and the trigger return spring wasn't too bad either. I'm unable to put in the ultimate striker blocks for now because I don't have the means to remove the rear sight. However, there's one part in the kit which I have no idea what to do with. I've watched all the videos and either I'm missing something big-time or it's not shown. It's a short silver pin. One end of it is flat and the other end is rounded. Can anyone identify this for me? I took a picture of it, but I don't know if it's good enough to be helpful.

http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo98/fireman325/DSC02592.jpg

[SteveL]

Slave pin to assist with installation of the trigger return spring.

Thanks for clearing that up for me. That really did occur to me believe it or not, but I had worse luck trying to use it than without it.

Overall I really like the feel of the triggers now that I have (most of) the DCAEK kits installed. The kits added more pre-travel (not sure if that's the right word), but the pull is very smooth and the break is MUCH lighter than before. Much easier to control. Since I have CTC lasergrips on both pistols I can really see a difference in how little the dot moves when I dry fire them now.

[G34Shooter]

Great choice on getting the DCAEK :smile:

[stifled]

Thanks for the info in this thread! I had been thinking about one of these since the trigger pull is the one thing I'm not a huge fan of with M&Ps. This helped make my decision.

[Omega Man]

Is there any travel before the break on reset with the DCAEK installed?

[SteveL]

I finally got out and shot my M&Ps today for the first time after installing the DCAEK parts. I really like the trigger breaks. They were a significant improvement. I put 100 rounds of WWB and 25 rounds of Hornady Critical Defense through my compact with 0 malfunctions and 300 rounds or WWB through my FS with 0 malfunctions.

One thing that's kind of weird, though, is that pretty early on with the FS I noticed the front sight had gone mostly black. I thought at the time it was just some carbon build-up. This hasn't happened on my compact. Anyway when I got home and tried to clean it out, I can't. Now I'm starting to wonder if most of the white didn't flake out of that sight for some reason. If anyone has any suggestions for something to try cleaning it with I'm game. If the white really did chip out of it it's not that big of a deal since I plan to replace the sights with some kind of night sights down the road, but it seems weird if that's what happened.

I have a question about the DCAEK kits though. I've installed everything except the ultimate striker blocks because I don't have the means to remove my back sight at home. I have a vice available at work though. To use this what would you guys recommend I use to protect the slide from the vice itself? Would a couple of towels between the vice jaws and the slide be sufficient or do I need something else? Also what type of punch would be best to tap the rear sight out with? Thanks for any help you guys can give me.

[masternave]

Thanks for all the advice... I've tried to buy the thing twice and their website has ground to a halt. Very sad. :(

[kartoffel]

Is there any travel before the break on reset with the DCAEK installed?

Yes. The DCAEK in my 9L breaks right where it needs to for the fixed overtavel stop built into the trigger guard to function properly. The trigger resets about 1/8" forward of the overtravel stop.

SteveL: that's not the first time I've heard of the white paint flaking out of sights on an M&P. If you're looking for night sights, let me recommend the factory ones. The rear sight has a nice ledge for one handed slide racking.

Here's how I did the rear sight for a USB install:

To DIY the Apex USB:
1) Field strip and squirt some penetrating oil on the rear sight. I personally recommend Kroil. Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster is fine, too.
2) Remove the set screw in the rear sight using a 1/16" hex wrench. Despite the red colored threadlocker on there, you don't need to heat it.
3) Wipe down the slide and cover it with electric tape, just as extra protection in case you slip.
4) Place the slide in a vise with non-marring jaws. You can use scraps of wood, leather, or even a doubled up dishrag to pad your vise jaws.
5) Acquire or build a BRASS drift punch. I made a punch from 3/16" brass rod stock and used a file to put a flat on the end of it so it was kind of D shaped. Place the flat of the D in the slide dovetail and you'll be even less likely to slip. Why brass? Because steel will mar your sight, and wood or nylon is too soft. You could probably use aluminum in a pinch, but I'd prefer brass.
6) Place the flat part of your D shaped punch down in the bottom of the dovetail, not up against the top or middle of the sight. Then, strike the punch SHARPLY to drift the rear sight out from left to right. This is not the time to be pussyfooting around. Light hammer blows will peen the sight, whereas a few solid blows will knock it out without damage.
7) Watch Apex's YouTube video for the rest. You'll need to catch the striker block which will pop up once the sight is most of the way out. The DCAEK (and USB kit, I belive) come with a handy nylon dovetail insert for holding the striker block down as you maneuver the sight.
8) As they always say in those car maintenance manuals, reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Drift the slide back in from right to left.
9) Any brass marks on the sides of your side can be cleaned up afterwords with a little solvent.
10) Once you're happy with the sight alignment, degrease the set screw and hole and reinstall the set screw with blue (medium strength) threadlocker. Red is overkill, IMHO. I don't have a torque rating for the set screw, but use common sense. The sight should fit solid in the dovetail without the set screw. If it's loose, raise a few bumps on the bottom surface of the sight with a spring loaded center punch.

[G34Shooter]

Thanks for all the advice... I've tried to buy the thing twice and their website has ground to a halt. Very sad. :(

There are other vendors that carry it like Midway, Dillon Precision, G&R etc...

[SteveL]

Yes. The DCAEK in my 9L breaks right where it needs to for the fixed overtavel stop built into the trigger guard to function properly. The trigger resets about 1/8" forward of the overtravel stop.

SteveL: that's not the first time I've heard of the white paint flaking out of sights on an M&P. If you're looking for night sights, let me recommend the factory ones. The rear sight has a nice ledge for one handed slide racking.

Here's how I did the rear sight for a USB install:

To DIY the Apex USB:
1) Field strip and squirt some penetrating oil on the rear sight. I personally recommend Kroil. Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster is fine, too.
2) Remove the set screw in the rear sight using a 1/16" hex wrench. Despite the red colored threadlocker on there, you don't need to heat it.
3) Wipe down the slide and cover it with electric tape, just as extra protection in case you slip.
4) Place the slide in a vise with non-marring jaws. You can use scraps of wood, leather, or even a doubled up dishrag to pad your vise jaws.
5) Acquire or build a BRASS drift punch. I made a punch from 3/16" brass rod stock and used a file to put a flat on the end of it so it was kind of D shaped. Place the flat of the D in the slide dovetail and you'll be even less likely to slip. Why brass? Because steel will mar your sight, and wood or nylon is too soft. You could probably use aluminum in a pinch, but I'd prefer brass.
6) Place the flat part of your D shaped punch down in the bottom of the dovetail, not up against the top or middle of the sight. Then, strike the punch SHARPLY to drift the rear sight out from left to right. This is not the time to be pussyfooting around. Light hammer blows will peen the sight, whereas a few solid blows will knock it out without damage.
7) Watch Apex's YouTube video for the rest. You'll need to catch the striker block which will pop up once the sight is most of the way out. The DCAEK (and USB kit, I belive) come with a handy nylon dovetail insert for holding the striker block down as you maneuver the sight.
8) As they always say in those car maintenance manuals, reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Drift the slide back in from right to left.
9) Any brass marks on the sides of your side can be cleaned up afterwords with a little solvent.
10) Once you're happy with the sight alignment, degrease the set screw and hole and reinstall the set screw with blue (medium strength) threadlocker. Red is overkill, IMHO. I don't have a torque rating for the set screw, but use common sense. The sight should fit solid in the dovetail without the set screw. If it's loose, raise a few bumps on the bottom surface of the sight with a spring loaded center punch.

Thank you very much. This information is much appreciated. I have watched the YouTube videos and they were very helpful. The issue was when he got to knocking out the rear sight with the slide clamped in a vice. I don't have one at home and the one I have at work I'm pretty sure does NOT have non-marring jaws. This is why I was asking if a couple of towels would be sufficient to protect the slide. The blocks of wood are a better idea though and I know that will work just fine. Covering the slide in electrical type is a nice touch too and I'll keep that in mind. I think I'll have to buy a brass punch though. It's no biggie as I think I can probably get one pretty cheap. Having said that, if anyone has any recommendations where I can buy a single punch for a decent price please feel free to share. ;)

As for the sights I really like the overall shape of the factory sights for the exact reason you brought up. However, I was thinking of going with a two dot configuration like the Heinie Ledge Straight 8s or Warren Tacticals. Either of these would still have the ledge to facilitate one-handed racking.

[ralph]

This is'nt a shoe forum,Bub...Go peddle your Chinese shit somewhere else..
Edited to say I'm glad the Mods got that Spam outta here, and quick...Thank You..

[dvdlpzus]

Ban rtty?