FTE FTE! Please Advise!

[jdbell2004]

First off, please dont flame me. I bought a DPMS complete upper reciever. Stainless steel barrel and chamber. Not the best on the market but it fits my budget and will do the trick for 'yote hunting.

During the initial break in, I noticed the rounds were not ejecting. I would load one round into the magazine, fire, and the bolt would not lock back, nor eject the spent round. About 60 rounds later, it began locking the bolt back but the spent round would still be in the chamber.

Manually cycling the bolt would remove the spent casing, but with a little more effort than I imagine it should take. Possibly a tight chamber? Maybe, but it did not fail to eject every round, about 75% were FTE, either bcg locked to the rear with spent round still in the chamber, or bolt failing to lock to the rear, spent round still in the chamber.

I tried Remington UMC FMJ 55gr and Hornady 40gr V-Max. Both with the same results. Have yet to try handloads, but would like to address this issue beforehand.

I called DPMS and told them what my issue was. Upon reading reviews I came across someone who had a similar issue and it was due to a gas tube leak at the gas bock. I expained this to Mark, the rep I spoke with, and he told me that there is supposed to be a little blow-by at the gas block. I did notice, after the first few rounds, some grease or oil that appeared to have blown back from the gas block along the gas tube about an eighth inch. It dried after the first 30 or so rounds and I have not seen any more grease or oil in that area. Mark told me it was most likely due to a tight chamber and I could either send it back to DPMS for them to fix (not going to happen, I'd like to use this thing this year!) or I could try polishing the chamber myself.

He told me to take the chamber brush, lube it up real good, attach it to a cleaning rod then a cordless drill and lightly run it for about 10 seconds. Then take some emery paper, wrap it around the bore brush and do the same for about 10 seconds. I don't know how comfortable I would be with this and can't find any information on how to do this online.

[Robb Jensen]

Most DPMS stainless barrels have .223 Rem SAAMI spec (read match) chambers. Most will work 100% better after a good 5.56mm Neck and Throat reaming with the Ned Christiansen reamer.

.223 Rem SAAMI spec chambers are useless in ARs. Save them for the bolt guns.

[Belmont31R]

DPMS seems to have a lot of chamber issues.



Can you try a different bolt or at least try replacing the extractor?



Yes some gas leaking around the gas block is normal. It does it on all my AR's to a certain extent.


I would not put anything abbrasive in the chamber in a drill. If replacing the bolt or extractor doesn't help I would consider reaming the chamber out with Ned Christensen's (SP?) chamber reamer. Grant of GR tactical can do this for you I believe.


Since the gun is new did you clean it before shooting? Sometimes factories but on some pretty thick cosmoline like grease that can gum things up. I was at the range about 2 weeks ago, and a guy was there with a new DPMS having similar issues as you. He took the BCG out, and inside it was packed with a heavy white grease.

[Boomer]

Inspect the brass, did the extractor rip the rim off the brass? If so, I would think you either have a chamber problem or a timing problem. If there is no damage to the brass the extractor could be sliding off the rim without getting a purchase. Pull the extractor from the bolt and run it along the pad of your small (pinky) finger. As Dean Caputo will say, it should feel like two kitten teeth on either side of the extractor, two sharpish points. If those are dull that could indicate a worn or out of spec extractor. Also check the extractor spring for tension and the extractor spring insert, should be black. If you have a rifle length system then blue is standard. Beyond that it may need to be seen by a gunsmith. The advise to ream out the chamber to 5.56 is very sound and something I would do regardless.

[jdbell2004]

Most DPMS stainless barrels have .223 Rem SAAMI spec (read match) chambers. Most will work 100% better after a good 5.56mm Neck and Throat reaming with the Ned Christiansen reamer.

.223 Rem SAAMI spec chambers are useless in ARs. Save them for the bolt guns.

I don't at all mind it being a .223 chamber, I don't reload 5.56, only .223. Is there any reason to have a 5.56 chamber if I will only be shooting .223? However, opening the chamber up a bit may help extraction, how do I go about doing this? DIY or send it somewhere?



DPMS seems to have a lot of chamber issues.



Can you try a different bolt or at least try replacing the extractor?



Yes some gas leaking around the gas block is normal. It does it on all my AR's to a certain extent.


I would not put anything abbrasive in the chamber in a drill. If replacing the bolt or extractor doesn't help I would consider reaming the chamber out with Ned Christensen's (SP?) chamber reamer. Grant of GR tactical can do this for you I believe.


Since the gun is new did you clean it before shooting? Sometimes factories but on some pretty thick cosmoline like grease that can gum things up. I was at the range about 2 weeks ago, and a guy was there with a new DPMS having similar issues as you. He took the BCG out, and inside it was packed with a heavy white grease.

I could try the extractor from my BM upper. Would it be ok to try/use the whole BCG from the BM upper?

I only cleaned the barrel before firing. It had crossed my mind, but I didn't have my cleaning gear with me. I will tear it all down and clean it thouroughly this evening. Thanks for the suggestion!




Inspect the brass, did the extractor rip the rim off the brass? If so, I would think you either have a chamber problem or a timing problem. If there is no damage to the brass the extractor could be sliding off the rim without getting a purchase. Pull the extractor from the bolt and run it along the pad of your small (pinky) finger. As Dean Caputo will say, it should feel like two kitten teeth on either side of the extractor, two sharpish points. If those are dull that could indicate a worn or out of spec extractor. Also check the extractor spring for tension and the extractor spring insert, should be black. If you have a rifle length system then blue is standard. Beyond that it may need to be seen by a gunsmith. The advise to ream out the chamber to 5.56 is very sound and something I would do regardless.

All the brass looks fine. I'll inspect it more closely this evening. As I removed the brass from the chamber I briefly looked it over and didn't notice any damage. Will look closer.

The barrel has a rifle length gas system, however the extractor buffer is black...or maybe black with carbon...again, I'll take a look tonight. Thanks for the suggestions and information!

Oh, I read somewhere that excess lube/cleaning solvent in the chamber can cause the case to hydrolock when fired. During break in, I run a bore snake with the bristles dipped in solvent, through the barrel. Excess solvent was visable on the muzzle brake, so I'm assuming some could be building up in the camber as the bore snake moves through. Any thoughts here?

[

[Belmont31R]

20 rds with a different BCG isn't going to hurt anything. It will at least allow you to rule it out or in.


Just some advice (take it or leave it) but always clean and inspect a new gun before you shoot it. Lots of times manufacturers will coat the insides with grease to protect them from rust before they get to your hands. There is no telling what a distributor or dealer's storage standards are. No one wants to open a box to find rust all over and in the gun. This grease is not lube. It just keeps rust from forming on the metal surfaces, and is usually very thick stuff. It can interfere with the operation of the gun...especially in an AR which works best with oil.


Now if you try the different BCG, and you're still having the same problems it likely is the chamber. There are a couple outfits on here who can ream your chamber out to the correct spec. Its not something you want to try and do at home.

Also in the future avoid companies like DPMS. They make their money off volume not quality. If they put out 100 guns, and 10 come back with problems they don't care. They just send them out the door as fast as possible, and don't do the quality checks other companies are doing. I know its too late now but just in the future...now instead of a working gun "out of the box" you have to spend your time and mine fixing their problem. Almost every AR that is having issues at the range I see is from the "bargain brands" like DPMS, Olympic, etc.


Hopefully you can get it working without too much issue, though. Its not fun spending time trying to fix an issue rather than enjoying your new purchase.

[Iraqgunz]

My recommendation is to get the chamber reamed. That may help.

My real recommendation is to get rid of the DPMS and get something else.

[cmoore]

My recommendation is to get the chamber reamed. That may help.

My real recommendation is to get rid of the DPMS and get something else.

THIS...Ned Christiansen (father of the MOACKS) makes a great reamer. Your's would not be the first DPMS needing it done so don't sweat it...

[jdbell2004]

20 rds with a different BCG isn't going to hurt anything. It will at least allow you to rule it out or in.


Just some advice (take it or leave it) but always clean and inspect a new gun before you shoot it. Lots of times manufacturers will coat the insides with grease to protect them from rust before they get to your hands. There is no telling what a distributor or dealer's storage standards are. No one wants to open a box to find rust all over and in the gun. This grease is not lube. It just keeps rust from forming on the metal surfaces, and is usually very thick stuff. It can interfere with the operation of the gun...especially in an AR which works best with oil.


Now if you try the different BCG, and you're still having the same problems it likely is the chamber. There are a couple outfits on here who can ream your chamber out to the correct spec. Its not something you want to try and do at home.

Also in the future avoid companies like DPMS. They make their money off volume not quality. If they put out 100 guns, and 10 come back with problems they don't care. They just send them out the door as fast as possible, and don't do the quality checks other companies are doing. I know its too late now but just in the future...now instead of a working gun "out of the box" you have to spend your time and mine fixing their problem. Almost every AR that is having issues at the range I see is from the "bargain brands" like DPMS, Olympic, etc.


Hopefully you can get it working without too much issue, though. Its not fun spending time trying to fix an issue rather than enjoying your new purchase.

I agree, cleaning would have been a good idea, and from now on I will before firing. Thanks for the suggestions!


My recommendation is to get the chamber reamed. That may help.

My real recommendation is to get rid of the DPMS and get something else.

It's all I could afford. Reviews I've read have been good and for Coyote hunting, I don't need a top of the line set up. However, I may need a quick follow-up shot and with this issue, I don't have that. I may have gotten burned on this, but every company has it lemons, some more than others. I took a gamble and as it looks, I got burned. Now I have to work with what I have.

Eventually, I'd like to get a different barrel, perhaps something more top end but for now, I've got to get what I have working.

[Iraqgunz]

Let me say a few things. You say it was all you could afford, so what did it cost you?

Why was it absolutely necessary to buy it now, instead of waiting another couple of months to save up additional money?

Did you really do any searching around before you bought it?

You are right. Every company can produce a lemon. DPMS is well known for making lemonade.

You are faced with two choies. Send it back to manufacturer and tell them to make it right- unfortunately you will get another DPMS.

Second choice is to get a good barrel and rebarrel the weapon or send it to someone that has a Ned Christiansen chamber reamer. All of the DPMS carbines that I have reamed hada fairly tight chamber.


I agree, cleaning would have been a good idea, and from now on I will before firing. Thanks for the suggestions!



It's all I could afford. Reviews I've read have been good and for Coyote hunting, I don't need a top of the line set up. However, I may need a quick follow-up shot and with this issue, I don't have that. I may have gotten burned on this, but every company has it lemons, some more than others. I took a gamble and as it looks, I got burned. Now I have to work with what I have.

Eventually, I'd like to get a different barrel, perhaps something more top end but for now, I've got to get what I have working.

[Eric]

He told me to take the chamber brush, lube it up real good, attach it to a cleaning rod then a cordless drill and lightly run it for about 10 seconds. Then take some emery paper, wrap it around the bore brush and do the same for about 10 seconds. I don't know how comfortable I would be with this and can't find any information on how to do this online.
Cleaning with a chamber brush is always recommended. However, the rest of the advice is unacceptable from a manufacturer. There should have been an offer to replace or repair it, with shipping on their dime.

[Belmont31R]

Cleaning with a chamber brush is always recommended. However, the rest of the advice is unacceptable from a manufacturer. There should have been an offer to replace or repair it, with shipping on their dime.



Like I said DPMS is more concerned with numbers than quality.


Them telling a customer to take abrasives to a new upper is just an example of that.

[Iraqgunz]

I missed that little gem in his earlier post. I would go back to the dealer and demand that he take the weapon back or assist with getting DPMS to refund the money.

DPMS is garbage in my opinion. Everyone that I have worked with/on was crap and this just reinforces it.


Cleaning with a chamber brush is always recommended. However, the rest of the advice is unacceptable from a manufacturer. There should have been an offer to replace or repair it, with shipping on their dime.

[Jimbo45]

-snip-
I called DPMS and told them what my issue was.
-snip-
or I could try polishing the chamber myself.

He told me to take the chamber brush, lube it up real good, attach it to a cleaning rod then a cordless drill and lightly run it for about 10 seconds. Then take some emery paper, wrap it around the bore brush and do the same for about 10 seconds. I don't know how comfortable I would be with this and can't find any information on how to do this online.

Seriously!!????? I am at a loss for words....

[stifled]

If I had a brand new gun that didn't cycle correctly, it would be going back to the manufacturer for them to fix it, at the very least. If I have to modify a brand new gun just to make it eject a casing, that is a sure sign it's a gun I don't want.

If a company told me to modify a brand new gun of theirs, I would demand they refund my money and find a manufacturer who at least gives a damn.

[Cameron]

What did you actually pay for the DPMS upper?

Cam

[MarkG]

Polishing a chamber is a bad idea. Polishing makes it harder for the operating system to extract the casing.