View Full Version : Help removing RRA pistol buffer tube w/ loctite
I had that thing over the gas stove w the burners heat on the pistol tube right at the edge of the aluminum....was even smokeing something good...w/ 2 oven mits, I can not unwrench it...should I put the heat on the lower where the threads are, I know alot of heat got there, and repeated twice...but nothing...help...I dont want to **** up the lower, I could care less about the tube...Tried vice grips on it to get more torque...no go...what do I need to do? Get a "torch" and hit the inside of the buffer tube? Will this weaken the lower?
Since you mention oven mitts, I'm guessing you're not securing the lower properly in a block/vise setup. That's sort of needed for this job. Once it's secured, use a torch (the small-ish handheld type you can find at home depot or wal mart) to heat the tube right next to the receiver. Spend a minute or two heating it evenly where the threads would contact the receiver. It WILL come loose that way. RRA puts those things on insanely tight with some sort of loctite.
I only have an upper vise block...I guess I am going to the store to get a torch..I did use the Stove's blue flame on the area that goes into the receiver...but this time, I am going to torch the inside of the buffer tube....should I use gloves, or put the buffer tube in a vise and torque the reciever....
Here is what I would do. If heat isn't working then put some type of oil on the general area and allow it to soak.
Are you using a buttstock wrench or trying to wing it with pliers?If you really don't care about the tube then clamp it tightly in a vise.
My personal recommendation is that you acquire the proper tools and do it correctly.
I only have an upper vise block...I guess I am going to the store to get a torch..I did use the Stove's blue flame on the area that goes into the receiver...but this time, I am going to torch the inside of the buffer tube....should I use gloves, or put the buffer tube in a vise and torque the reciever....
there is no buttstock wrench, the pistol buffer tube goes directly into the lower other than the rear plate....just w/ lock tight...I will try vice grips but again w/o a block its hart to get a good hold on the lower....urg...
An industrial heat gun (look like a big hair dryer) will debond the loctite and allow you to easily remove the receiver extension (aka buffer tube). Loctite, rockset, etc all work in a similar way so this method works for all types of thread lockers.
Gently clamp the buffer tube in a vice so the lower is higher than the buffer tube. If you can get it, use a concentrator nozzle on the heat gun and heat the buffer tube where it joins with the lower. Set the heat gun on its highest setting. You want to direct the majority of the heat to the buffer tube, not the lower to avoid any heat related damage, since you will probably be scrapping the tube. Once you see the loctite start to liquify, the chemical bond is being released so you can start to unscrew the lower. It is best to do this when everything is still hot so the loctite doesn't set again. If it won't turn easily, apply more heat and keep applying heat until the buffer tube is out. Clean out all the loctite from the lower with some solvent after your are done. Lacquer thinner works well.
If this doesn't work, a good machinist can get the tube out for you because you want to avoid damaging the threads on the lower. A machinist can cut the tube and turn off the inside of buffer tube until only the remnants of threads remain. Then chase it with a 1 3/16"-16 tap (Brownell's sells them) and you're good as new. This should take a good machinist about an hour of labor, or less. Machine shop labor and a tap are alot cheaper than the cost and hassle of replacing a lower.
If you are going to try to get it out and have any doubts in your own abilities, get a pro to help you. It is always better to be cautious than to create problems later.
I had a RRA upper with a barrel nut that was put on dry (no grease), so I understand what a pain it is to deal with consequences of "non milspec" factory assembly.
You have to heat the threads until you smell that sweet smell of the locktite. If you don't want to destroy the tube, another option would be to drill a suitable hole through the sides, big enough for a big phillips head screw driver to fit through. Run the screw driver through the sides and use it like a T-handle.
When I say buttstock wrench I am referring to the wrench that is used to remove the castle nut. There are several types on the market. For example the Hammerhead wrench.
If you lock that tube into the vise and you use a real wrench you should be able to break it loose. If they put rocksett on there then you will probably want to soak that area in water. That will loosen it.
Again, without the PROPER tools you are risking damaging something.
there is no buttstock wrench, the pistol buffer tube goes directly into the lower other than the rear plate....just w/ lock tight...I will try vice grips but again w/o a block its hart to get a good hold on the lower....urg...
The Search function came through again!
So what worked for you?
I am about to bring my lower to a mechanic and use little heat. The freaking red loctite is on there heavy. The dude who did this needs a smack!:D
https://www.m4carbine.net/picture.php?albumid=304&pictureid=1458
Here is what you can do. Apply low steady heat and then put some type of oil on there. If have done it before and then slapped the wrench on it right away and it broke loose.
The Search function came through again!
So what worked for you?
I am about to bring my lower to a mechanic and use little heat. The freaking red loctite is on there heavy. The dude who did this needs a smack!:D
https://www.m4carbine.net/picture.php?albumid=304&pictureid=1458
Thanks IG
I need to clean the nut at the end of the extension there is freaking loctite thee too my hammerhead wrench will not fit on. I am going to tap it on. Then I will heat it up as you suggested. I will report back! Applying the oil right after the heat is a good idea.
This is an M16 A1 lower we have two with the same red loctite treatment. Is this an arsenal rebuild thing? I did not think so but could be wrong. It is an pretty new A2 stock. The last one had to be carefully cut off with a torch. I just heard the story today and was a little concerned to hear the rear or the lower got "cherry red" any worries there?
I brought the lower to my friends shop today. He heated the threads for 60-90 seconds and I turned the extension right off. I asked him about the last gun and was told my co-worker showed up and had already damaged the extention before looking for help.
Glad to hear that it worked out.
I brought the lower to my friends shop today. He heated the threads for 60-90 seconds and I turned the extension right off. I asked him about the last u.it and was told my co-worker showed up and had already damaged theextention before looking for help.
I appreciate the advice. I was ready for a fight but having some knowledge, a second set of hands and the right tools made it easy. I used my Hammerhead tool for the first time on a fixed stock. Awesome tool if you need one it is very well made.
http://www.mountsplus.com/AR-15_Accessories/AR-15_Scope_Rings/121-HRT-ST-01.html
The hammerhead is awesome for castle nuts.
A strap wrench works well on the pistol tubes.
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